I am very fond of my Italian family. However, after living either with one other person or alone for so many years, it is not so easy to adapt to a "family" lifestyle. Therefore, I decided to spend some weekends traveling around Italy.
After helping a fellow student, Alexis, change apartments, I departed the friendly confines of Montepulciano, motored across the Tuscan countryside and into Umbria. I skirted the large city of Perugia then ascended into the mountains of eastern Umbria. Moving along roads chiseled into the mountainside, I marveled at the simply beauty of both the villages and the country. After a time I arrived at my destination, the small city of Norcia.
Norcia is a very nice place and, while drive about the center city, I remembered its beauty and was pleased that I had returned here. Apparently I had arrived during a festival, for there were bright decoration and many officials meandering about the main piazza, the Palazzo Seneca. I found my hotel, checked in and was escorted to a lovely lunch.
The lunch at Ristorante Granaro del Monte was al fresco and I was surrounded by a very dynamic group of Italian diners. It was great fun to watch their animation and listen to the music of their language. My lunch was a toast with black truffle spread followed by risotto with lentils and finished with a bit of wild boar in a delicious sauce. Admittedly, I was hungry after my drive.
As is my habit, I returned to my room for a nap and some quiet time. Arising refreshed, I went for an early evening stroll about the old city. It was excellent. The piazza and the streets leading to the piazza were filled with Italian families. They were so much fun to watch. The children playing. The families smiling and greeting each other with kisses. It seemed the perfect part of small city life.
Later, on the advise of the hotel, I attended vespers at the Church of Saint Benedict, which is the primary church of Norcia and is on the main piazza. I ascended into the lower chambers of the church, sitting on an ancient wooden bench to listen to the Gregorian chanting of the monk's evening prayers. The sounds that came from those dozen monks was very soothing and the small, stone chamber had perfect acoustics. I was surprised at my enjoyment.
Departing in silence, I walked again across the piazza to the hotel and an amazing dinner at Ristorante Vespasia. The restaurant was rather elegant with very soft colors and modern art adorning the walls. There was live music that was a bit loud but that could not distract me from my goal of fine dining. As has often been the case, I was brought a Spumanti and a small taster, which was a small piece of roasted pidgeon in a delicious sauce. The menu and wine list were delivered. I selected a 2005 La Spinetta "Starderi" Barbaresco, which I knew from my time in Piemonte was excellent.
First came "Uovo di Fattoria al Tartufo Nero di Norcia." The fresh farm eggs were soft boiled and covered with black truffle sprinkles. This serving was so wonderful! The taste and texture combination was perfect. The soft egg combined with the firm, rich truffle followed by a sip of wine made, at least for me, a exceptional dining experience.
Next came the "Agnello dei Roveja di Sibillini alle erbe dell'orto cotto allo spiedo souffle alle lenticchie di Castelluccio di Norcia, LGP". The tender lamb was encrusted in crisp skin, making each taste an excellent combination of textures, too. The lentil souffle was rich and simply outstanding. It was beautifully presented and finished off an excellent dinner. After an espresso I was off to bed for a long sleep to prepare myself for the drive back to Montepulciano.
As an aside, I awoke during the night, thanks to the coffee, and wandered over to the balcony of my room. It was great luck for outside the full moon glowed above the mountains. It was the finish to a beautiful night. So, back to bed and to sleep, perchance to dream.
Sunday, September 30, 2012
Tuesday, September 25, 2012
My School, My Family, My Italian Life.
I departed San Maurizio, dropped down into the valley below, swooped across and charged back into the mountains. It was Sunday morning and there was little traffic so the drive was easy, if not particularly memorable. After an hour I entered the autostrada and charged toward Genoa.
Skirting a large city is seldom without incident and I knew, from past experience (I've been lost in Genoa before), that this would be a challenge. There are many tunnels, so the GPS does not always function that well. There are many intersecting autostradas and a missed turn can send one far out of the way. However, with great focus and a modicum of luck, I ended up on the far side of the city without becoming lost. I was mentally exhausted but very happy to have escaped unscathed. I thought a bit about the energy it took to navigate such a hectic environment but then began to relax. The day was beautifully sunny and the Ligurian Sea was majestic against the mountainous shoreline.
As I drove toward Florence I began to consider where I was headed. Entering a school to study a new language, having not studied in any school for many years, might have been a silly thing to do. But, for the next five weeks that would be my lot in life. And then there was the matter of a man who had become familiar with living alone over the past couple of years, moving into the home of a family. The family was not just a family but it would be an Italian family that spoke no English. I became a bit nervous. My stomach tightened at the thought of the potential complications awaiting me at my destination, Montepulciano.
With the mountains behind me, the drive through the Tuscan hills was soothing but I could not get the tension of the unknown far from my mind. I made a couple of stops along the way only to encounter bus loads of tourists from all around the world. It was not a pretty sight. I charged on. Finally, after six hours of travel I arrived in my city. I could not find the family's home so I went to the school, which was difficult to find, too. I got to the school and, fortunately, it was open. The school found the family, the family came to take me home and it all worked out...much to my joy and amazement.
I have been here for one week and I have become settled. The school has been great fun despite being quite a bit of work. My classmates, an Austrian woman, an Australian man, a woman from Texas, a young woman from London, a young woman from New York City and a man from Utah have been very nice. We're all beginning level students. The teachers are two very charming Italian women, Sara and Cinzia. In the class we speak little English (a rule fairly well enforced by the instructors). Actually, the teachers might not speak much English. Explanations are often quite colorful and dynamic.
The family, a middle-aged couple, their 31-year old son and the mother of the wife, are exceptionally gracious. They speak no English, so our time together is often quite interesting. However, they help me, they correct me and they are all just so very, very nice. I have breakfast (a coffee and a biscuit) and dinner (the wife is an excellent cook) with them most days. We try to communicate with each other and it is improving but would be hilarious to any observer.
My week days are pretty much the same. I arise at 7a, shower and have my coffee. I depart for my walk to school (a 30 minute, uphill walk) at around 8a. School begins at 8.45a, there is a 30 minute break at 10.15a (for a snack), another 15 minute break for a coffee and then the classes end at 1.15p. By the end of school my mind has been very tired from trying to speak in Italian. Generally, I have had lunch with a few of my English speaking classmates,which has lasted for a couple of hours.
Often there have been activities organized by the school that began in the late afternoon. So far I have participated in a wine tasting (a degustazione), a trip to an organic farm (una azienda biologica), and an excursion to a monastery accompanied with a tour of the nearby city of Montalcino. Next week I am scheduled to have a cooking class and attend a conference on Leonardo Di Vinci. I'll let you know about the cooking class.
Dinner has always been at 8p and I have been studying by 9.30p. I have tried to get to bed by 11p but that hasn't always worked out. At the end of each day I am very mentally tired and am happy for alone time in my room. Thus far, my adventure has exceeded my expectations and, despite the exhaustion, have been very happy. Until next time, ciao.
Skirting a large city is seldom without incident and I knew, from past experience (I've been lost in Genoa before), that this would be a challenge. There are many tunnels, so the GPS does not always function that well. There are many intersecting autostradas and a missed turn can send one far out of the way. However, with great focus and a modicum of luck, I ended up on the far side of the city without becoming lost. I was mentally exhausted but very happy to have escaped unscathed. I thought a bit about the energy it took to navigate such a hectic environment but then began to relax. The day was beautifully sunny and the Ligurian Sea was majestic against the mountainous shoreline.
As I drove toward Florence I began to consider where I was headed. Entering a school to study a new language, having not studied in any school for many years, might have been a silly thing to do. But, for the next five weeks that would be my lot in life. And then there was the matter of a man who had become familiar with living alone over the past couple of years, moving into the home of a family. The family was not just a family but it would be an Italian family that spoke no English. I became a bit nervous. My stomach tightened at the thought of the potential complications awaiting me at my destination, Montepulciano.
With the mountains behind me, the drive through the Tuscan hills was soothing but I could not get the tension of the unknown far from my mind. I made a couple of stops along the way only to encounter bus loads of tourists from all around the world. It was not a pretty sight. I charged on. Finally, after six hours of travel I arrived in my city. I could not find the family's home so I went to the school, which was difficult to find, too. I got to the school and, fortunately, it was open. The school found the family, the family came to take me home and it all worked out...much to my joy and amazement.
I have been here for one week and I have become settled. The school has been great fun despite being quite a bit of work. My classmates, an Austrian woman, an Australian man, a woman from Texas, a young woman from London, a young woman from New York City and a man from Utah have been very nice. We're all beginning level students. The teachers are two very charming Italian women, Sara and Cinzia. In the class we speak little English (a rule fairly well enforced by the instructors). Actually, the teachers might not speak much English. Explanations are often quite colorful and dynamic.
The family, a middle-aged couple, their 31-year old son and the mother of the wife, are exceptionally gracious. They speak no English, so our time together is often quite interesting. However, they help me, they correct me and they are all just so very, very nice. I have breakfast (a coffee and a biscuit) and dinner (the wife is an excellent cook) with them most days. We try to communicate with each other and it is improving but would be hilarious to any observer.
My week days are pretty much the same. I arise at 7a, shower and have my coffee. I depart for my walk to school (a 30 minute, uphill walk) at around 8a. School begins at 8.45a, there is a 30 minute break at 10.15a (for a snack), another 15 minute break for a coffee and then the classes end at 1.15p. By the end of school my mind has been very tired from trying to speak in Italian. Generally, I have had lunch with a few of my English speaking classmates,which has lasted for a couple of hours.
Often there have been activities organized by the school that began in the late afternoon. So far I have participated in a wine tasting (a degustazione), a trip to an organic farm (una azienda biologica), and an excursion to a monastery accompanied with a tour of the nearby city of Montalcino. Next week I am scheduled to have a cooking class and attend a conference on Leonardo Di Vinci. I'll let you know about the cooking class.
Dinner has always been at 8p and I have been studying by 9.30p. I have tried to get to bed by 11p but that hasn't always worked out. At the end of each day I am very mentally tired and am happy for alone time in my room. Thus far, my adventure has exceeded my expectations and, despite the exhaustion, have been very happy. Until next time, ciao.
Saturday, September 22, 2012
What Happened the First Week?
My first week was spent in the Piemonte region, which is in the northwestern part of Italy. I flew to Nice, France and drove to the place I had arranged to stay, which was just above Santo Stefano Belbo.
The drive along and then away from the Ligurian Sea was very scenic but a bit hazy. Turning into the mountains, the air cleared and the drive was beautiful. Eventually I descended into an enormous valley that defined the Piemonte (the region is surrounded on three sides (south, west and north) by mountains...only the east side going toward Milan is flat). After skirting the edge of the valley I turned into the mountain's foothills. It was those foothills in the southeast that defined the best wine growing area of the region and held the famous villages that I would visit.
The hills were spectacular. They were cover with either dense forests or rows of vineyards and they were topped with either small villages or large villas. There were some open field whose grain crop had been harvested and lay fallow for the upcoming winter but those only added emphasis to the enormous number of vineyards. I stopped along the roadside to look at the grapes. They were ripe and they looked ready for harvest. I assumed from all of the small tractors on the road that the harvest had begun. It was interesting to be cruising down a country road, speed around a corner only to come up to a little tractor slowly pulling a trailer which had very high sides and which was full of newly harvested grapes. I became less aggressive in my driving after a close encounter in one such incident.
I settled into my room, walked the property a bit and had a wonderful dinner, which I discussed in another session. My days here seemed to unfold something like this: a rather large breakfast around 9, a stroll around the gardens, a driving trip into the country, a very light snack, a return to the spa at the hotel, a short nap and a trip away for a late dinner. At the end it was a bit boring and I was ready to move on. During my week's day trips I did spend a small amount of time in Alba, a nice, small city, and Asti, a larger and not so nice city, and Torino, because I had to change some money. However, the vast majority of the week was spent cruising the back country road and enjoying small villages (paese in Italian). On one day I drove to the east through Santo Stefano and on to Canelli and Calamandrana on one day. Calamandrana was a very nice little village.
On another day I drove northwest through Valdivilla and Coazzolo, stopping for a walk in Neive, a rather picturesque village with several nice cafes. In Neive I took a coffee with a pasta and had a grand time watch people. Having a pasta with morning coffee is not eating pasta but it is having a sweet with one's coffee, usually filled with marmalade. I took that same drive on another day but extended the trip to include Barbaresco. That was, by far, my favorite village. It was quaint, pristine and had terrific, panoramic views. There were a few tourists but not too many. This paese might be a terrific place to spend some time, perhaps a perfect place to do some writing because of its quiet, out-of-the-way nature. I spend a fair amount of the day here and had a very nice lunch.
On another day I drove down Strada Statale 592, turned deeper into the forested hills and came out in the very beautiful and quite touristy small city of Barolo. It was an excellent drive along remote roads and arriving in such a beautiful place was perfect. Again, I took a coffee but this time without pasta. I had a grand luncheon scheduled in the nearby village of Annunziata to be followed by a wine tasting in the next village, La Morra. I enjoyed my time strolling about Barolo, making a note to come here on a future trip. Shortly before 1p I drove over to Annunziata. The osteria was a very quaint place with an excellent terrace overlooking the vineyards. The lunch, to be covered in another piece, was excellent and I lounged until my wine tasting at 4p. The tour of the winery was nice but the wine tasting was pretty average. By now I was ready to relax so I began my drive back to the room, this time taking a more direct and faster route.
However, my favorite day trip focused only on a wine tasting at the vineyard, La Spinetta. It was explained to me that the hotel would drive me to the vineyard and that the tour would be in Italian. I agreed with that and I was off for a day of enjoyment. I had taken a late and somewhat larger breakfast in expectation of drinking a bit of wine. I was not disappointed. Upon arrival I was greeted and introduced to three Frenchmen. They were a large part of the nine people in the tasting. There were two Swedes, an American couple and their translator to round out the nine tasters. The Swedes spoke no Italian nor French...the tour leader had agreed to speak both Italian and French...so they just stayed in the back of the tour. The American stayed close to their translator. Me? I stayed with the French. We had a great time. After the tour we were taken to a room where a grand table had been prepared with breads and meats and cheese and many wine glasses. The show, and it was quite a show, began with a tasting of Chardonnay, then Dolcetto, the Barbera D'Asti, then Barbera D'Alba, then Barbaresco, and then Barolo. The flow was to drink a bit, eat a bit and have some water between wines. It worked fine until the tour leader decided that we should try some better wines. So, we had a second and, in some cases, a third round of the Barbera's and Barbaresco's and Barolo's. At the end of the day I believe that we were all, with the exception of the American but including the tour leader, a bit drunk. It was great fun making sentences with a few French words and a few Italian words and a few English words. Who knew who understood what but everyone was smiling and clinking glasses. It was fortunate for me that I had a driver. The tasting had lasted for six hours. I was so happy to get back to my room and stretch out on the bed.
Fortunately, I was scheduled to leave this place after seven days. A longer stay might have done me in. Now I am off for Toscana and my role as a student. That story will, indeed, be different and will begin to unfold soon.
The drive along and then away from the Ligurian Sea was very scenic but a bit hazy. Turning into the mountains, the air cleared and the drive was beautiful. Eventually I descended into an enormous valley that defined the Piemonte (the region is surrounded on three sides (south, west and north) by mountains...only the east side going toward Milan is flat). After skirting the edge of the valley I turned into the mountain's foothills. It was those foothills in the southeast that defined the best wine growing area of the region and held the famous villages that I would visit.
The hills were spectacular. They were cover with either dense forests or rows of vineyards and they were topped with either small villages or large villas. There were some open field whose grain crop had been harvested and lay fallow for the upcoming winter but those only added emphasis to the enormous number of vineyards. I stopped along the roadside to look at the grapes. They were ripe and they looked ready for harvest. I assumed from all of the small tractors on the road that the harvest had begun. It was interesting to be cruising down a country road, speed around a corner only to come up to a little tractor slowly pulling a trailer which had very high sides and which was full of newly harvested grapes. I became less aggressive in my driving after a close encounter in one such incident.
I settled into my room, walked the property a bit and had a wonderful dinner, which I discussed in another session. My days here seemed to unfold something like this: a rather large breakfast around 9, a stroll around the gardens, a driving trip into the country, a very light snack, a return to the spa at the hotel, a short nap and a trip away for a late dinner. At the end it was a bit boring and I was ready to move on. During my week's day trips I did spend a small amount of time in Alba, a nice, small city, and Asti, a larger and not so nice city, and Torino, because I had to change some money. However, the vast majority of the week was spent cruising the back country road and enjoying small villages (paese in Italian). On one day I drove to the east through Santo Stefano and on to Canelli and Calamandrana on one day. Calamandrana was a very nice little village.
On another day I drove northwest through Valdivilla and Coazzolo, stopping for a walk in Neive, a rather picturesque village with several nice cafes. In Neive I took a coffee with a pasta and had a grand time watch people. Having a pasta with morning coffee is not eating pasta but it is having a sweet with one's coffee, usually filled with marmalade. I took that same drive on another day but extended the trip to include Barbaresco. That was, by far, my favorite village. It was quaint, pristine and had terrific, panoramic views. There were a few tourists but not too many. This paese might be a terrific place to spend some time, perhaps a perfect place to do some writing because of its quiet, out-of-the-way nature. I spend a fair amount of the day here and had a very nice lunch.
On another day I drove down Strada Statale 592, turned deeper into the forested hills and came out in the very beautiful and quite touristy small city of Barolo. It was an excellent drive along remote roads and arriving in such a beautiful place was perfect. Again, I took a coffee but this time without pasta. I had a grand luncheon scheduled in the nearby village of Annunziata to be followed by a wine tasting in the next village, La Morra. I enjoyed my time strolling about Barolo, making a note to come here on a future trip. Shortly before 1p I drove over to Annunziata. The osteria was a very quaint place with an excellent terrace overlooking the vineyards. The lunch, to be covered in another piece, was excellent and I lounged until my wine tasting at 4p. The tour of the winery was nice but the wine tasting was pretty average. By now I was ready to relax so I began my drive back to the room, this time taking a more direct and faster route.
However, my favorite day trip focused only on a wine tasting at the vineyard, La Spinetta. It was explained to me that the hotel would drive me to the vineyard and that the tour would be in Italian. I agreed with that and I was off for a day of enjoyment. I had taken a late and somewhat larger breakfast in expectation of drinking a bit of wine. I was not disappointed. Upon arrival I was greeted and introduced to three Frenchmen. They were a large part of the nine people in the tasting. There were two Swedes, an American couple and their translator to round out the nine tasters. The Swedes spoke no Italian nor French...the tour leader had agreed to speak both Italian and French...so they just stayed in the back of the tour. The American stayed close to their translator. Me? I stayed with the French. We had a great time. After the tour we were taken to a room where a grand table had been prepared with breads and meats and cheese and many wine glasses. The show, and it was quite a show, began with a tasting of Chardonnay, then Dolcetto, the Barbera D'Asti, then Barbera D'Alba, then Barbaresco, and then Barolo. The flow was to drink a bit, eat a bit and have some water between wines. It worked fine until the tour leader decided that we should try some better wines. So, we had a second and, in some cases, a third round of the Barbera's and Barbaresco's and Barolo's. At the end of the day I believe that we were all, with the exception of the American but including the tour leader, a bit drunk. It was great fun making sentences with a few French words and a few Italian words and a few English words. Who knew who understood what but everyone was smiling and clinking glasses. It was fortunate for me that I had a driver. The tasting had lasted for six hours. I was so happy to get back to my room and stretch out on the bed.
Fortunately, I was scheduled to leave this place after seven days. A longer stay might have done me in. Now I am off for Toscana and my role as a student. That story will, indeed, be different and will begin to unfold soon.
Tuesday, September 18, 2012
Il Ristorante Guido...the second time.
There were many excellent ristorante not so far from San Maurizio but, I reflected and decided to spend another dinner with Guido and the beautiful Monica, Guido's business partner. I arrived to a relatively empty ristorante filled with soft music. I knew that there would soon be many diners so I valued this time of tranquility. As usual, a nice Spumante along with a tray of tasters was delivered to my table. Once again I perused the menu and the wine list. The task was so daunting yet so enjoyable.
For that night the wine would be a 2001 Barolo Conterno Fantino , Sori Ginestra. As luck would have it this was an unbelievably light, soft wine, which was perfect with my dinner selections. This wine was more like a Bordeaux or a Pinot Noir than a Barolo. It is better to be lucky than good regarding wine selection. The wine was decanted and the first servings of veal tartare and tuna salad were delivered. They were perfect with the Spumante and allowed my wine to breathe. Now, for serious culinary enjoyment.
A most unusual serving of Foie Gras was delivered to begin this adventure. The dish was "Foie Gras fichi Pedro Ximenez gelato. The rich taste of foie gras followed with the firm, sweet taste of the candied fruit and then the smooth, light texture of the gelato was surprisingly elegant. A sip of the nicely light wine was an excellent beginning to eat tasting. The wine, the foie gras and then the sweetness created an excellent beginning to the dinner.
After such tasting variability I rested for a moment. I watched the ristorante fill. My fellow diners seemed interesting but I did not have sufficient energy for enjoyment and observation. Next came the Gnocchi. It was "Gnocchi Baccala Polvere di Capperi di Salina." The combination of gnocchi and nicely seasoned meat was very nicely done. Each taste had a good combination of each, making the taste perfect with the wine.
The Agnolotti followed and was, again, simply delicious but was, this time, served only without sauce. However, this serving has been consistently excellent and is my favorite.
Finally. the "Maialino da Latte Cotto." This serving of breaded pork was so good. The breaded was exceptionally well seasoned. The pork was unbelievably tender. Holding each bite on my tongue for some time allowed the spices to unfold and fully compliment the tender meat. Followed by a sip of wine, each taste reminded me of why I visited this ristorante for a second time.
I did not taste a dessert with this meal for the courses were so filling and the wine so perfect, I did not want to allow that taste combination to leave me. So, Im off to my room for a long sleep and sweet dreams.
For that night the wine would be a 2001 Barolo Conterno Fantino , Sori Ginestra. As luck would have it this was an unbelievably light, soft wine, which was perfect with my dinner selections. This wine was more like a Bordeaux or a Pinot Noir than a Barolo. It is better to be lucky than good regarding wine selection. The wine was decanted and the first servings of veal tartare and tuna salad were delivered. They were perfect with the Spumante and allowed my wine to breathe. Now, for serious culinary enjoyment.
A most unusual serving of Foie Gras was delivered to begin this adventure. The dish was "Foie Gras fichi Pedro Ximenez gelato. The rich taste of foie gras followed with the firm, sweet taste of the candied fruit and then the smooth, light texture of the gelato was surprisingly elegant. A sip of the nicely light wine was an excellent beginning to eat tasting. The wine, the foie gras and then the sweetness created an excellent beginning to the dinner.
After such tasting variability I rested for a moment. I watched the ristorante fill. My fellow diners seemed interesting but I did not have sufficient energy for enjoyment and observation. Next came the Gnocchi. It was "Gnocchi Baccala Polvere di Capperi di Salina." The combination of gnocchi and nicely seasoned meat was very nicely done. Each taste had a good combination of each, making the taste perfect with the wine.
The Agnolotti followed and was, again, simply delicious but was, this time, served only without sauce. However, this serving has been consistently excellent and is my favorite.
Finally. the "Maialino da Latte Cotto." This serving of breaded pork was so good. The breaded was exceptionally well seasoned. The pork was unbelievably tender. Holding each bite on my tongue for some time allowed the spices to unfold and fully compliment the tender meat. Followed by a sip of wine, each taste reminded me of why I visited this ristorante for a second time.
I did not taste a dessert with this meal for the courses were so filling and the wine so perfect, I did not want to allow that taste combination to leave me. So, Im off to my room for a long sleep and sweet dreams.
Saturday, September 15, 2012
Il Cascinale Nuovo di Isola d'Asti
It is interesting how each restaurant is so distinctive. This eatery was in the country and not so far from a major highway. The building, surrounded by gardens, appeared to be a relic of the Fascist era architecture. The stark facade of brick and cement was far from inviting but gave way to a nice dining experience and a fortunate encounter.
The dining area was al fresco and the restaurant accoutrements were as stark as the building. However, the menu was varied and the wine list was large so, why not? As is the habit in Italy, I was served a glass of sparkling wine and a tray of delicious tasters. The service was very attentive and the background music was interesting.
My fellow diners included a table of four men, a Russian, an English speaker of unknown origin and two Italians. It was obvious they were working out some sort of business as the English speaker relayed details between the Italians and the Russian. The bits I caught were quite entertaining. Across from me was a single woman who spoke fluent Italian but, when she was asked by the chef, visited a table of Americans and spoke perfect English. As it ends up, she was my "fortunate encounter." Fortunately, the American were behind me and did not enter into this dining experience.
From the wine list I selected a 1999 La Spinetta (I like this vineyard) Vigneto Gallina Barolo di Chinato Cocchi Cappellano. This was a big wine, very dry and a nicely smokey aroma with a dark berry taste. I allowed the wine to open as I finished the tasters and enjoyed a ball of fresh mozzarella resting in a small bowl of tomato bisque topped with a fresh basil leaf. This was very colorful and quite tasty.
Dinner began with a "Carpaccio di Dentice gocce di Profumie Colori del Mediteranee." This was a thinly sliced white fish highlighted with dollops of basil and red pepper puree and completed with a spritz of citrus. While my wine did not match but was left to open more fully, this taste was very nice and refreshing. It was a beautiful presentation for such a delicate dish.
Second came the "Ravioli di Ombrina alla olio extravergino Maurizio Menichetti." A nicely presented serving, although the top was a bit crusty(i.e., hard) and the sauce was a bit fishy. However, below the first layer of pasta the dish was soft and elegant. It was as though the dish had waited under the warmer for too long. Despite this being a tuna dish the relatively light wine complemented it well. The dinner was beginning to take shape.
The dinner finale was "Piccione di Cascina Disossato all'uvia nero." This was a serving that perfectly matched my wine. It was the first time for me and pigeon. It was a peasant surprise. The meat was firm but tender with a pleasant "gamey" taste. The broth for the sauce was very rich and the roasted potatoes were perfectly done. As is my habit, a taste for me was put together by cutting a small piece of the meat, covering it with the rich broth and then complementing it with a roasted potato. After each bite was allowed to dissolve on my tongue I would enjoy a large sip of wine. I have learned to prolong my enjoyment and to realize the many dimensions of each serving. Ah! The joy of eating (and drinking).
I had finished my dinner and was lounging over an espresso when I notice that the woman dining alone was writing in a tablet. I leaned forward and asked, "Scusi, scrittore?" (excuse me, are you a writer?) In perfect Boston English she say "yes." I asked if she would like to join me for an after dinner drink. She joined me and I discover that she was Kerin O'keefe, a well known wine writer and an expert on Brunello wines. We had a nice, long talk about food and wine and life. We established what I hope will be a good connection. Only time will tell but her writings are interesting and, with good luck, we'll meet again somewhere in Europe.
Well, that's my story and I'm sticking with it. I had a very nice dinner and a very pleasant encounter. Until next time.
The dining area was al fresco and the restaurant accoutrements were as stark as the building. However, the menu was varied and the wine list was large so, why not? As is the habit in Italy, I was served a glass of sparkling wine and a tray of delicious tasters. The service was very attentive and the background music was interesting.
My fellow diners included a table of four men, a Russian, an English speaker of unknown origin and two Italians. It was obvious they were working out some sort of business as the English speaker relayed details between the Italians and the Russian. The bits I caught were quite entertaining. Across from me was a single woman who spoke fluent Italian but, when she was asked by the chef, visited a table of Americans and spoke perfect English. As it ends up, she was my "fortunate encounter." Fortunately, the American were behind me and did not enter into this dining experience.
From the wine list I selected a 1999 La Spinetta (I like this vineyard) Vigneto Gallina Barolo di Chinato Cocchi Cappellano. This was a big wine, very dry and a nicely smokey aroma with a dark berry taste. I allowed the wine to open as I finished the tasters and enjoyed a ball of fresh mozzarella resting in a small bowl of tomato bisque topped with a fresh basil leaf. This was very colorful and quite tasty.
Dinner began with a "Carpaccio di Dentice gocce di Profumie Colori del Mediteranee." This was a thinly sliced white fish highlighted with dollops of basil and red pepper puree and completed with a spritz of citrus. While my wine did not match but was left to open more fully, this taste was very nice and refreshing. It was a beautiful presentation for such a delicate dish.
Second came the "Ravioli di Ombrina alla olio extravergino Maurizio Menichetti." A nicely presented serving, although the top was a bit crusty(i.e., hard) and the sauce was a bit fishy. However, below the first layer of pasta the dish was soft and elegant. It was as though the dish had waited under the warmer for too long. Despite this being a tuna dish the relatively light wine complemented it well. The dinner was beginning to take shape.
The dinner finale was "Piccione di Cascina Disossato all'uvia nero." This was a serving that perfectly matched my wine. It was the first time for me and pigeon. It was a peasant surprise. The meat was firm but tender with a pleasant "gamey" taste. The broth for the sauce was very rich and the roasted potatoes were perfectly done. As is my habit, a taste for me was put together by cutting a small piece of the meat, covering it with the rich broth and then complementing it with a roasted potato. After each bite was allowed to dissolve on my tongue I would enjoy a large sip of wine. I have learned to prolong my enjoyment and to realize the many dimensions of each serving. Ah! The joy of eating (and drinking).
I had finished my dinner and was lounging over an espresso when I notice that the woman dining alone was writing in a tablet. I leaned forward and asked, "Scusi, scrittore?" (excuse me, are you a writer?) In perfect Boston English she say "yes." I asked if she would like to join me for an after dinner drink. She joined me and I discover that she was Kerin O'keefe, a well known wine writer and an expert on Brunello wines. We had a nice, long talk about food and wine and life. We established what I hope will be a good connection. Only time will tell but her writings are interesting and, with good luck, we'll meet again somewhere in Europe.
Well, that's my story and I'm sticking with it. I had a very nice dinner and a very pleasant encounter. Until next time.
Friday, September 14, 2012
Ristorante San Marco in Canelli, Italy
It was my initial drive from my hotel down into Santo Stefano Belbo and beyond. There were thirteen switchback curves on Strada Provinciale 51and I must admit to enjoying the challenge of each one of them. Reaching the bottom I turned onto Strada Statale 592, heading for Canelli. I entered the paesini on Viale Risorgimento, then turning onto the lovely tree-lined Via Alba. Here, amidst the trees in a quiet residential neighborhood, I found this quite small but lovingly appointed Ristorante.
The entry was encased in glass and contained a showcase for the culinary publication of this well-known chef, Mariuccia Roggero Ferrero. Inside the plain wooden door was a very small, perhaps four tables, dining area. The tables were nicely adorned with linens and fine china. I was greeted by a stately man whom I later discovered was the chef's husband, Piercarlo. He asked if I would like to dine inside or on the roof-top terrace. I selected the terrace and off we went through the back of the ristorante, up a steep staircase and onto the covered roof-top terrace. The terrace was more spacious and equally well adorned.
I settled at my table, receiving the evening's menu and the wine list. As I began to peruse the selections I was served a very nice Spumanti along with a small tasting dish of beautifully presented bite-sized combinations of meats, fishes and veggies. Each portion was a very interesting taste/texture combination, making an excellent start to this culinary adventure.
I selected my dinner and then my wine for this evening. The wine I chose was a 2005 La Spinetta Vigneto Starderi Barbaresco di Castagnole Lanze. For this trip I had decided that I would only drink the wines of the region I was visiting. I had never had a Barbaresco so, what better time to begin? The bottle was decanted (caraffa in Italian) and, as it opened up I finished my tastings and began to observe my fellow diners. As an aside, my selection was fortunate for the wine was perfect with the food. It was soft, delicate and, after opening up, so easy to drink. (In Italian, "del vino e cosi morbido e cosi delicato") Barbarescos may have become my new, favorite wine!
As for my fellow diners, they were all Americans. Near me was a lovely couple from San Francisco who sat quietly, enjoying their food and wine. Across the terrace were two couples from New York who were not so quiet and seemed a bit over-demanding. Observing the New Yorker's interaction with the waiter and Piercarlo, it was obvious that the Italians were very patient. In the end we all chatted and I made an internet connection with the couple from California (tut e bene!).
As food began to arrive it was time to get serious. First came the "Peperone Farcito all a Piemontese con Traditionale Vitello Tonnato". This serving of beautifully prepared and seasoned tuna stuffed into bright red peppers was delicious. The peppers were firm but sufficiently tender to make each bite quite mouthwatering. This serving did not match my wine selection so I was given another glass of sparkling wine which was fine. This was an excellent, light beginning to my dinner.
Next came the "Gnocchi di Patate di Montagna con Salsa Basilico, Fagiolini e Pinoli". The pasta was tender and the sauce was, well, the sort of sauce that, when you hold it on your tongue for a moment your eyes roll back and you just sit in amazement. There was just the right amount of basil, the broth was rich, the pine nuts were perfectly done and the small beans were so tender. I would take a small mouthful, allowing it to rest on my tongue for just a moment and follow that with a sip of wine to fully enhance each experience. For this, the wine was perfect.
Finally, the "Carre d'Agnello con Salsa al Barbera d'Asti e Tartufu Nero". Well, I'm not a big fan of what I consider to be the "overrated" truffle. However, there are times when I have been wrong. This was one of those times. This dish was a sight to behold. The lamb was perfectly done and the sauce was rich and full of truffle bits. Each taste became a combination of a cube of lamb, dipped into the truffle sauce, topped with a piece of truffle, all complimented with a small piece of roasted potato. This time each savory bite was followed by not a sip but a mouth full of wine. The combinations were simply more outstanding than for what I could have hoped.
As I finished I reclined in my chair and smiled. All of the items were cleared from the table and, to my surprise, more utensils were brought. Ah! I forgot. Dolci! Soon came a cup of espresso and another delicious serving. This was the Ristorante's famous "Langa Bunet". There were two large slices of liqueur soaked chocolate cake. The cake was very rich while being very light. The liqueur was present but not strong, simply complementing the cake's moistness. After my large dinner, I was amazed at how ravenously I consumed this serving but it was simply too delicious.
Now, I was finished. Il Conto, per favore. Piercarlo brought my check and escorted my down to the entrance where Mariuccia was waiting. We exchanged pleasantries, she gave me two of her books and I was on my way after a three and a half hour dinner. As I drove back to the San Maurizio I reflected on this experience and why I love food and wine so much!
The entry was encased in glass and contained a showcase for the culinary publication of this well-known chef, Mariuccia Roggero Ferrero. Inside the plain wooden door was a very small, perhaps four tables, dining area. The tables were nicely adorned with linens and fine china. I was greeted by a stately man whom I later discovered was the chef's husband, Piercarlo. He asked if I would like to dine inside or on the roof-top terrace. I selected the terrace and off we went through the back of the ristorante, up a steep staircase and onto the covered roof-top terrace. The terrace was more spacious and equally well adorned.
I settled at my table, receiving the evening's menu and the wine list. As I began to peruse the selections I was served a very nice Spumanti along with a small tasting dish of beautifully presented bite-sized combinations of meats, fishes and veggies. Each portion was a very interesting taste/texture combination, making an excellent start to this culinary adventure.
I selected my dinner and then my wine for this evening. The wine I chose was a 2005 La Spinetta Vigneto Starderi Barbaresco di Castagnole Lanze. For this trip I had decided that I would only drink the wines of the region I was visiting. I had never had a Barbaresco so, what better time to begin? The bottle was decanted (caraffa in Italian) and, as it opened up I finished my tastings and began to observe my fellow diners. As an aside, my selection was fortunate for the wine was perfect with the food. It was soft, delicate and, after opening up, so easy to drink. (In Italian, "del vino e cosi morbido e cosi delicato") Barbarescos may have become my new, favorite wine!
As for my fellow diners, they were all Americans. Near me was a lovely couple from San Francisco who sat quietly, enjoying their food and wine. Across the terrace were two couples from New York who were not so quiet and seemed a bit over-demanding. Observing the New Yorker's interaction with the waiter and Piercarlo, it was obvious that the Italians were very patient. In the end we all chatted and I made an internet connection with the couple from California (tut e bene!).
As food began to arrive it was time to get serious. First came the "Peperone Farcito all a Piemontese con Traditionale Vitello Tonnato". This serving of beautifully prepared and seasoned tuna stuffed into bright red peppers was delicious. The peppers were firm but sufficiently tender to make each bite quite mouthwatering. This serving did not match my wine selection so I was given another glass of sparkling wine which was fine. This was an excellent, light beginning to my dinner.
Next came the "Gnocchi di Patate di Montagna con Salsa Basilico, Fagiolini e Pinoli". The pasta was tender and the sauce was, well, the sort of sauce that, when you hold it on your tongue for a moment your eyes roll back and you just sit in amazement. There was just the right amount of basil, the broth was rich, the pine nuts were perfectly done and the small beans were so tender. I would take a small mouthful, allowing it to rest on my tongue for just a moment and follow that with a sip of wine to fully enhance each experience. For this, the wine was perfect.
Finally, the "Carre d'Agnello con Salsa al Barbera d'Asti e Tartufu Nero". Well, I'm not a big fan of what I consider to be the "overrated" truffle. However, there are times when I have been wrong. This was one of those times. This dish was a sight to behold. The lamb was perfectly done and the sauce was rich and full of truffle bits. Each taste became a combination of a cube of lamb, dipped into the truffle sauce, topped with a piece of truffle, all complimented with a small piece of roasted potato. This time each savory bite was followed by not a sip but a mouth full of wine. The combinations were simply more outstanding than for what I could have hoped.
As I finished I reclined in my chair and smiled. All of the items were cleared from the table and, to my surprise, more utensils were brought. Ah! I forgot. Dolci! Soon came a cup of espresso and another delicious serving. This was the Ristorante's famous "Langa Bunet". There were two large slices of liqueur soaked chocolate cake. The cake was very rich while being very light. The liqueur was present but not strong, simply complementing the cake's moistness. After my large dinner, I was amazed at how ravenously I consumed this serving but it was simply too delicious.
Now, I was finished. Il Conto, per favore. Piercarlo brought my check and escorted my down to the entrance where Mariuccia was waiting. We exchanged pleasantries, she gave me two of her books and I was on my way after a three and a half hour dinner. As I drove back to the San Maurizio I reflected on this experience and why I love food and wine so much!
Thursday, September 13, 2012
Morning Sensations
The morning light in the Piemonte is quite spectacular but does little to dwarf the San Maurizio's glorious breakfast buffet. The tables are filled with fruits and pastries and meats and cheeses and breads and juices. I arose early for Europeans and the Grand Salon, festooned with frescos, was empty of people but full of the aromas from this morning feast. While the air is filled with aromas, the room stood quiet except for the occasional excited chatter of the Italian staff in the adjoining kitchen.
I took a small breakfast of eggs and meats and cheeses. A coffee and fresh squeezed orange juice(aranciata) were brought to me. I took a second aranciata and lounged for a time. After sufficient basking I strolled about the gardens just outside of the Grand Salon. The morning air was fresh but it was already warming. A haze from the heat could already be seen in the distance. I took a seat on a garden bench. The view overlooked the rolling hills covered with vineyards. Many of the hills were topped with small villages surrounding church towers. The vineyards were dotted with villas of varied sizes. The villas were not the bright Tuscan yellows but were more light yellows and subdued whites. Many of the villas were accompanied by several large out-buildings to house what must be necessary for tending the vineyards. All in sight was pristine.
I could've sat here for quite a time but my thoughts of relaxation gave way to exploring. This morning was an opportunity to visit Alba and a few of its surrounding villages. So, off I went to see and to learn.
I took a small breakfast of eggs and meats and cheeses. A coffee and fresh squeezed orange juice(aranciata) were brought to me. I took a second aranciata and lounged for a time. After sufficient basking I strolled about the gardens just outside of the Grand Salon. The morning air was fresh but it was already warming. A haze from the heat could already be seen in the distance. I took a seat on a garden bench. The view overlooked the rolling hills covered with vineyards. Many of the hills were topped with small villages surrounding church towers. The vineyards were dotted with villas of varied sizes. The villas were not the bright Tuscan yellows but were more light yellows and subdued whites. Many of the villas were accompanied by several large out-buildings to house what must be necessary for tending the vineyards. All in sight was pristine.
I could've sat here for quite a time but my thoughts of relaxation gave way to exploring. This morning was an opportunity to visit Alba and a few of its surrounding villages. So, off I went to see and to learn.
Tuesday, September 11, 2012
Sono Arrivato!
After what seemed like an eternity of travel I finally sat down to dine at the San Maurizio, my hotel for the next week. The hotel, formerly a monastery, is a stately property situated in the countryside midway between Alba and Asti in the Piemonte region. It is a fine location from which to explore this wine rich area but for tonight I shall simply bask in the cuisine of Ristorante Guido.
After a refreshing shower I wandered down the three flights of stone steps to the ancient stone wine cellar that houses the Ristorante. The curved stone ceilings form a majestic framework for the very nicely appointed eatery. The head waiter quietly appeared at my table side. He inquired whether I would prefer Italian or English menu. I gambled on Italian and he smiled. Shortly after he moved away a quite beautiful young woman appeared with a glass of sparkling wine and a tray of fresh breads.
I sat for a bit, sipping the wine and observing my fellow diners. The most interesting was two elderly Italian couples directly across from my table. They were, as one might expect, animated in their discourse. However, from time to time, the conversation grew hushed as the two women would lean their heads together and the men would grow quiet. It was very interesting to watch.
My attention was soon drawn away from them as the sommelier brought the wine list. The list was comprised of four books, a small book for wines by the glass, two medium sized books with offerings from France and the other wine regions of Italy, and a 150 page book with the wine offerings from this region, the Piemonte. He sat the books on the table. I looked at the books. I looked up at him. He smiled, said something in Italian, turned and walked away. I quickly decided to only drink bottles of wine from this region, thus discarding three books, leaving me with but 150 pages to peruse.
After some time the waiter appeared, I selected my dinner and asked for the sommelier's assistance. We came up with a Borgogno 1997 Barolo Classico Riserva. The wine ended up being a nicely soft but firm wine with good fruit and smokey overtones. It was decanted table side as the serving of my meal began. First was a very delicate steak tartare in a very smooth olive oil accompanied by fresh tuna blended with al dente veggies. Both of these were nicely complimented by the sparkling wine, which I continued to drink while the Barolo opened up.
Second came a serving of eggplant soufflé over a tomato bisque. This combination was perfectly complimented by small slices of freshly baked onion bread. With this serving I began to drink the Barolo and they fit together very well.
Next came a house specialty, Agnolotti pasta, freshly made and very fine, stuffed with finely chopped fresh veggies strongly enhanced with a blend of wild rabbit, pork and veal. The serving came it two portions, one served in a richly delicious broth from the three meats and the other sans broth. I was instructed that this was to be eaten with the fingers and not a fork. My wine glass was filled and I was left to enjoy. My first selection was a piece with the broth. I placed it on my tongue, not chewing, allowing it to dissolve in my mouth. It was so good. My shoulders slumped and I sat back in my chair. As the piece was totally dissolved I raised my hand, grasped my wine glass and took a small sip. If there is a culinary heaven the person that fabricated this will certainly go there. For what seemed like an eternity I went through this process of allowing each piece to dissolve and following it with a bit of wine. I alternated the with-broth and without broth pieces. I enjoyed them equally and the wine was simply a perfect complement to each mouthwatering bite. I thought that I was spent and I was until the next course arrived.
Fourth was the risotto with porcini mushrooms. The broth was equally rich and the rice was perfectly done. The distinctive porcini taste was, again, excellent with the firm Barolo. The focaccia bread brought to recover every last bit of the broth was tender and warm. If it hadn't been for the Agnolotti this would've been the best portion of the meal.
Lastly came the main entree of wild goat served with caramelised fig and roasted mushrooms. The fig was a honey style fig and its soft, sweet taste was a perfect compliment to the strong goat meat. The mushrooms were firm and rich, allowing me to enjoy them without the addition of another texture. The goat meat was a bit sinuey, if that's a word, but moist and flavorful. The goat skin was crisp and very flavorful. A bit of skin with a bit of fig was a truly wonderful taste and texture sensation. A bit of firm mushroom with a bit of moist goat meat was an equally delicious gout.
Finally, my plate sufficiently empty, I sat back to relax after such a glorious repast. I hadn't wanted to consume a bottle of wine but it was so great with the food and I looked over to find the carafe nearly empty. The table was cleared and a tray of sweets was placed just off to the side of the table. I regarded the tray but could not bring myself to take one bite. I made a signal to the waiter, asking him to charge my room. He nodded and I was off to bed, very content with my premier meal for this Italian vacation. I wonder if I wobbled?
After a refreshing shower I wandered down the three flights of stone steps to the ancient stone wine cellar that houses the Ristorante. The curved stone ceilings form a majestic framework for the very nicely appointed eatery. The head waiter quietly appeared at my table side. He inquired whether I would prefer Italian or English menu. I gambled on Italian and he smiled. Shortly after he moved away a quite beautiful young woman appeared with a glass of sparkling wine and a tray of fresh breads.
I sat for a bit, sipping the wine and observing my fellow diners. The most interesting was two elderly Italian couples directly across from my table. They were, as one might expect, animated in their discourse. However, from time to time, the conversation grew hushed as the two women would lean their heads together and the men would grow quiet. It was very interesting to watch.
My attention was soon drawn away from them as the sommelier brought the wine list. The list was comprised of four books, a small book for wines by the glass, two medium sized books with offerings from France and the other wine regions of Italy, and a 150 page book with the wine offerings from this region, the Piemonte. He sat the books on the table. I looked at the books. I looked up at him. He smiled, said something in Italian, turned and walked away. I quickly decided to only drink bottles of wine from this region, thus discarding three books, leaving me with but 150 pages to peruse.
After some time the waiter appeared, I selected my dinner and asked for the sommelier's assistance. We came up with a Borgogno 1997 Barolo Classico Riserva. The wine ended up being a nicely soft but firm wine with good fruit and smokey overtones. It was decanted table side as the serving of my meal began. First was a very delicate steak tartare in a very smooth olive oil accompanied by fresh tuna blended with al dente veggies. Both of these were nicely complimented by the sparkling wine, which I continued to drink while the Barolo opened up.
Second came a serving of eggplant soufflé over a tomato bisque. This combination was perfectly complimented by small slices of freshly baked onion bread. With this serving I began to drink the Barolo and they fit together very well.
Next came a house specialty, Agnolotti pasta, freshly made and very fine, stuffed with finely chopped fresh veggies strongly enhanced with a blend of wild rabbit, pork and veal. The serving came it two portions, one served in a richly delicious broth from the three meats and the other sans broth. I was instructed that this was to be eaten with the fingers and not a fork. My wine glass was filled and I was left to enjoy. My first selection was a piece with the broth. I placed it on my tongue, not chewing, allowing it to dissolve in my mouth. It was so good. My shoulders slumped and I sat back in my chair. As the piece was totally dissolved I raised my hand, grasped my wine glass and took a small sip. If there is a culinary heaven the person that fabricated this will certainly go there. For what seemed like an eternity I went through this process of allowing each piece to dissolve and following it with a bit of wine. I alternated the with-broth and without broth pieces. I enjoyed them equally and the wine was simply a perfect complement to each mouthwatering bite. I thought that I was spent and I was until the next course arrived.
Fourth was the risotto with porcini mushrooms. The broth was equally rich and the rice was perfectly done. The distinctive porcini taste was, again, excellent with the firm Barolo. The focaccia bread brought to recover every last bit of the broth was tender and warm. If it hadn't been for the Agnolotti this would've been the best portion of the meal.
Lastly came the main entree of wild goat served with caramelised fig and roasted mushrooms. The fig was a honey style fig and its soft, sweet taste was a perfect compliment to the strong goat meat. The mushrooms were firm and rich, allowing me to enjoy them without the addition of another texture. The goat meat was a bit sinuey, if that's a word, but moist and flavorful. The goat skin was crisp and very flavorful. A bit of skin with a bit of fig was a truly wonderful taste and texture sensation. A bit of firm mushroom with a bit of moist goat meat was an equally delicious gout.
Finally, my plate sufficiently empty, I sat back to relax after such a glorious repast. I hadn't wanted to consume a bottle of wine but it was so great with the food and I looked over to find the carafe nearly empty. The table was cleared and a tray of sweets was placed just off to the side of the table. I regarded the tray but could not bring myself to take one bite. I made a signal to the waiter, asking him to charge my room. He nodded and I was off to bed, very content with my premier meal for this Italian vacation. I wonder if I wobbled?
Monday, September 10, 2012
Arriving in Europe
After a very nice, long, deep sleep I hustled over to JFK to catch my Iberia flight. I didn't know Iberia Airlines but, in general, have good expectations for flights on foreign carriers. I was not disappointed. Although my ability to communicate (I speak no Spanish...Lo siento, pero yo no hablo Espanol...except, "I am sorry but I don't speak Spanish") was severely limited I received many smiles, very good food, nice wine and my seat converted into a flat bed. For what more could one ask?
We arrived early in Madrid which gave me plenty of time to get through customs and giving me some time to enjoy the beauty of the Madrid airport. The undulating roof was beautiful and the people with whom I interacted in Madrid were extremely friendly. Maybe the beauty of the people enhanced my opinion of the airport.
This travel day would encompass four travel legs, the second leg taking me to Barcelona. Maybe I was a bit worn out from the JFK-Madrid flight but the short flight to Barcelona just seemed odd. It made me somewhat uncomfortable and I began to think about my luggage. Airlines have lost my luggage on each of the last three trips. On this trip these two airlines, American and Iberia, have had three opportunities to do the same. There was a plane change in Los Angeles, in New York and in Madrid, so I'm beginning to estimate the odds of seeing my luggage in Barcelona. Given my feeling about this flight and this crew I'm thinking the odds are pretty low. However, wonders will never cease. My bags arrived, I passed through customs (again) and searched for my next flight (Barcelona to Zurich) on Swissair.
The search for Swissair in the Barcelona airport was an unbelievable experience couched in the misunderstanding of the difference between Terminal C and Concourse C. My misunderstanding of that distinction allowed me to drag my luggage for long distances until I eventually discovered the error of my ways. I walked the length and breadth of that large airport (I must've needed the exercise), finally arriving at the correct spot.
Although it was probably a result of my misadventure, I cannot say I cared much for the airport in Barcelona nor the friendliness of it people. Couple that with the fact that I had been traveling for 14 hours and it a wonder that I didn't go postal.
So, I'm ready to leave this place, but, that becomes complicated by the ultra-efficient Swissair, which can't seem to find a plane to take us to Zurich. Eventually that happens and we have a lovely flight over Switzerland. Although I've been to Geneva, I can't say I've seen that beautiful country and the afternoon flyover was very nice. As it happens, I had a rather long layover in Zurich, which is not a beautiful place to spend much time. Again my flight is delayed by Swissair but I finally arrive in Nice. After 36 hours of travel I am so happy to jump into a comfortable bed for a long, deep sleep. The next day I will begin my travels into Italy and, despite the fact that it has taken me nearly three days to arrive at this point, I am happy.
We arrived early in Madrid which gave me plenty of time to get through customs and giving me some time to enjoy the beauty of the Madrid airport. The undulating roof was beautiful and the people with whom I interacted in Madrid were extremely friendly. Maybe the beauty of the people enhanced my opinion of the airport.
This travel day would encompass four travel legs, the second leg taking me to Barcelona. Maybe I was a bit worn out from the JFK-Madrid flight but the short flight to Barcelona just seemed odd. It made me somewhat uncomfortable and I began to think about my luggage. Airlines have lost my luggage on each of the last three trips. On this trip these two airlines, American and Iberia, have had three opportunities to do the same. There was a plane change in Los Angeles, in New York and in Madrid, so I'm beginning to estimate the odds of seeing my luggage in Barcelona. Given my feeling about this flight and this crew I'm thinking the odds are pretty low. However, wonders will never cease. My bags arrived, I passed through customs (again) and searched for my next flight (Barcelona to Zurich) on Swissair.
The search for Swissair in the Barcelona airport was an unbelievable experience couched in the misunderstanding of the difference between Terminal C and Concourse C. My misunderstanding of that distinction allowed me to drag my luggage for long distances until I eventually discovered the error of my ways. I walked the length and breadth of that large airport (I must've needed the exercise), finally arriving at the correct spot.
Although it was probably a result of my misadventure, I cannot say I cared much for the airport in Barcelona nor the friendliness of it people. Couple that with the fact that I had been traveling for 14 hours and it a wonder that I didn't go postal.
So, I'm ready to leave this place, but, that becomes complicated by the ultra-efficient Swissair, which can't seem to find a plane to take us to Zurich. Eventually that happens and we have a lovely flight over Switzerland. Although I've been to Geneva, I can't say I've seen that beautiful country and the afternoon flyover was very nice. As it happens, I had a rather long layover in Zurich, which is not a beautiful place to spend much time. Again my flight is delayed by Swissair but I finally arrive in Nice. After 36 hours of travel I am so happy to jump into a comfortable bed for a long, deep sleep. The next day I will begin my travels into Italy and, despite the fact that it has taken me nearly three days to arrive at this point, I am happy.
Friday, September 7, 2012
Getting Away
As is my habit, life was a bit harried in the days leading up to my departure. Settling details, resolving issues and late, unexpected developments always seem to interrupt what I always expect will be a smooth transition from my relatively mundane life to my life of "travel adventure." But that is all behind me now as I sit in the British Airways lounge in New York, reflecting on leaving home for such an extended time.
The departure is always flooded with mixed feelings. I sat in the plane looking across the lava tarmac and up at Hualalai Mountain, shrouded in rain, wondering how the most important woman in my life, Pua, would endure my absence. With good luck the house sitters will treat her much better than I have over the past couple of years. There has been so much time away and, due to her advanced age, she deserves more attention, not less. However, the search for something, I know not what, has dominated life and I don't see that ending soon.
The plane leaves my home island and the journey begins. I am feeling a bit of trepidation about the unknown, a bit of melancholia as I travel alone and a growing amount of excitement as I move down this new path.
One key aspect of all of my adventures exists in the people I meet. Not being a shy, retiring person, I seek out many and varied social contacts. In my first flight I sat with a rather nervous lady with darting eyes and in constant body motion. When she told me that she was born and had always lived in Hawaii I was astonished. Admittedly, she was a city girl (from Honolulu) but why hadn't her visits to her home in North Kohala settled her? She was a mystery that there was no time to unravel.
My next flight placed me beside a grandmotherly woman of Filipino extraction. She was quite elegant and easily shared her stories of life as a travel guide. She was obviously a strong person and, despite her petite stature, it was evident she quartered no nonsense in the conduct of either her life or her business. She was, indeed, a joyful person with whom to spend time. The flight went rapidly and we soon parted ways but she had given me an idea. What if I were to learn enough Italian or French to become a seasonal travel guide for Americans in those countries? That's something to think about.
My final flight of the day, from Los Angeles to New York, found me seated next to a rather disinterested California businessman. Therefore, I spent my time studying Italian until I happened to talk with the flight attendant for my section. She, her name Terri, was quite friendly and, as we talked further, we discovered that we were staying at the same hotel. She was nice enough, with the approval of the Captain, to offer me a ride with the crew to the hotel. The trip with the crew, who were quite chatty, was much faster, saving me an hour or so. After over ten hours of flying I was very happy for the accelerated arrive into a warm shower and a very comfortable bed. I slept long and well.
So, after a rejuvenating night, here I am, awaiting my flight to Barcelona. I am sitting amidst the absolute wonder of international travelers. My airline is Iberia and the primary language is, of course, Spanish. Me? I don't understand a word but they are great fun to watch. One day I must learn a bit of Spanish, but, that's another project.
Talk to you later.
The departure is always flooded with mixed feelings. I sat in the plane looking across the lava tarmac and up at Hualalai Mountain, shrouded in rain, wondering how the most important woman in my life, Pua, would endure my absence. With good luck the house sitters will treat her much better than I have over the past couple of years. There has been so much time away and, due to her advanced age, she deserves more attention, not less. However, the search for something, I know not what, has dominated life and I don't see that ending soon.
The plane leaves my home island and the journey begins. I am feeling a bit of trepidation about the unknown, a bit of melancholia as I travel alone and a growing amount of excitement as I move down this new path.
One key aspect of all of my adventures exists in the people I meet. Not being a shy, retiring person, I seek out many and varied social contacts. In my first flight I sat with a rather nervous lady with darting eyes and in constant body motion. When she told me that she was born and had always lived in Hawaii I was astonished. Admittedly, she was a city girl (from Honolulu) but why hadn't her visits to her home in North Kohala settled her? She was a mystery that there was no time to unravel.
My next flight placed me beside a grandmotherly woman of Filipino extraction. She was quite elegant and easily shared her stories of life as a travel guide. She was obviously a strong person and, despite her petite stature, it was evident she quartered no nonsense in the conduct of either her life or her business. She was, indeed, a joyful person with whom to spend time. The flight went rapidly and we soon parted ways but she had given me an idea. What if I were to learn enough Italian or French to become a seasonal travel guide for Americans in those countries? That's something to think about.
My final flight of the day, from Los Angeles to New York, found me seated next to a rather disinterested California businessman. Therefore, I spent my time studying Italian until I happened to talk with the flight attendant for my section. She, her name Terri, was quite friendly and, as we talked further, we discovered that we were staying at the same hotel. She was nice enough, with the approval of the Captain, to offer me a ride with the crew to the hotel. The trip with the crew, who were quite chatty, was much faster, saving me an hour or so. After over ten hours of flying I was very happy for the accelerated arrive into a warm shower and a very comfortable bed. I slept long and well.
So, after a rejuvenating night, here I am, awaiting my flight to Barcelona. I am sitting amidst the absolute wonder of international travelers. My airline is Iberia and the primary language is, of course, Spanish. Me? I don't understand a word but they are great fun to watch. One day I must learn a bit of Spanish, but, that's another project.
Talk to you later.
Sunday, September 2, 2012
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