As a weekend getaway I wanted to spend time in Siena. However, there were no hotels available in the central city so I elected to stay in a renovated monastery just 5 minutes from the central city. As I drove to my weekend destination a weariness came over me. One of my Italian teachers, the quite charming Sara, recommended a small trattoria in the village of Rapolano Terme for a luncheon stop. It was just off of the autostrada so I ventured over to the only eating place in that small town. I was late for lunch and I can say that they did not appear pleased to see me, but, they gave me a table and served me an excellent spaghetti with ragu accompanied by a very nice carafe of red wine. I ate rather quickly but still enjoyed each bite. Shortly I was on my way to what ended up being my retreat.
Deep in the countryside, overlooking Siena I found this walled enclave that was very charming. I recalled reading that there was a spa. Massage was on my mind. However, no massage times were available. Maybe a dip in the pool would be good. However, the pool water, although heated, was quite cold. So, I retreated to my room, poured a hot bath and prepared myself for dinner. Also, I recall reading that this was one of the 100 best restaurants in the world. Sure, I thought. Every one's got a list. We'll see.
At the appointed time I waltzed across the stone courtyard and into the anteroom of Ristorante Il Canto. I was enveloped by elegant yet subtle classical music. I was greeted by a beautifully charming but stoic staff. I was escorted to my table in the smaller of two dining rooms. This room had just four tables. As it ended up, one table held a quite lovely French couple from Brittany, while another table held a very nice couple from northern California. The fourth table was vacant. As the evening progressed I talked with the couples and very much enjoyed their stories.
Almost immediately I was brought a sparkling wine, Malvasis Giorgio 2007, along with a small serving tray of powdered pumpkin seeds, a slice of grilled onion and a fruit gelatin. The serving was excellent finger food and the wine was refreshing. Shortly the wine list was given to me (it was a rather thick book) and the matron of the dining appeared at my table with a very large menu. She began in Italian but soon switch, first to French because she heard me talk to the French couple, then, finally to English. I was sorry that I could not understand the Italian. However, the menu explanation was too complex. On the menu there must've been 200 items. However, as I came to understand, while the menu was fixed, the items available changed every day, depending upon what products were available from the countryside. So, I listened carefully and came up with the dinner that follows.
My wine was a 2004 Santo Stefano Barbaresco. I love Barbarescos. However, while the wine decanted, I was served a vegetable consomme with mussels. The broth was very light but quite rich and the mussels were tender. The taste was very nice with the refreshing sparkling wine.
Second came a most beautiful serving. It was a raw egg yoke accompanied by small pieces of bacon, a cereal bread divided into small pieces, capers and a sweet mustard. The items were presented separately and spread very nicely across the plate. As I pierced the egg yoke it flowed into the bacon and the bread. A bite was composed of a piece of soft bacon atop a piece of bread which was then dipped, first into the yoke and then into the sweet mustard. The taste texture combination was outstanding. Occasionally I would add a caper, which added a nice salty spice. I was thinking that this will certainly be the highlight of this meal. Little did I know what was in store for me.
I did not drink with the prior serving but now it was time to introduce the Barbaresco, which is an excellent, soft wine. The next serving was a risotto with capers and olives and pine nuts. Herein rested the most amazing part of this dinner. My server, the lovely Elena, said that there would be pine nuts in the risotto. However I saw no pine nuts. But, two wafers had been placed atop the risotto. As it turned out, those wafers were made from pine nuts and the wafers dissolved into the very warm risotto. I had never seen such a presentation and was quite awed by the mind that came up with the idea. The risotto, which was made in water, not broth, was perfectly textured. The taste combination of the olives and the capers was very nice, especially when combined with the pine nuts. I lingered over this serving.
Next came a surprise serving. The dish was a very rich cream of garlic soup covered with a layer of crystallized sugar. It was a very nice surprise and an excellent taste/texture break from the risotto and leading to the meat course.
The third serving was another beautifully presented combination of perfectly prepared fillets of young deer (capriolo) with pane integrale, a bowl of pepper consommé, pieces of candied quince and pieces of salted, sauteed porcini mushrooms. It was a colorful plate. There was the red of the meat, the orange of the quince and the deep brown of the mushrooms, all encased in the rich aroma of the consommé. The process of enjoying this serving unfolded like this: a small piece of meat was dipped into the rich broth, swirled and eaten. After a moment, a small piece of sweet quince was enjoyed. Lastly, a small piece of the earthy mushroom with its slightly salty taste was allowed to cap off this portion. At the very end a sip of wine would prepare the pallet for the next tasting. It was great fun and so enjoyable. This meal was lasting a long time for it had been consumed very deliberately.
Now, for the final serving to help in finishing off the wine, there was an excellent selection of cheeses. I enjoyed the aged sheep cheese, the soft goat cheese and a very nice bleu cheese. Finally, the wine is finished, the cheeses have been enjoyed and I sipped a coffee. I sat and reflected in amazement at the quality and surprises in this feast. This may be one of the best restaurants in the world. It is certain to me that Chef Paolo has an amazing talent.
I retired to my bed, not rising until midday on Saturday. I wandered about the grounds and gradually elected to have a do-nothing weekend. I read. I studied. I thought. I relaxed. I departed mid-morning on Sunday after a quite large American style breakfast. The drive back to Montepulciano was slow. I wandered and was very happy to have had such a relaxing and delicious weekend.
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