My return to France was begun with a quite interesting drive through Paris, followed by a very boring drive across central France to the touristy town of Amboise. I wandered down country roads amidst just plowed fields and into the Loire River valley. There, straddling the Loire was my destination and I was happy to settle in for the night. My hotel, Le Choisel, sat just along the bank of the river and, while it was a bit dated, was a lovely old place. I arranged for dinner and settled into my room, which was large but seemed cramped because of all of the ancient French chairs and benches strewn about the place. I decided that some exercise would be good so I took a walk along the river and then through the town center.
Returning to the hotel, I prepared myself for dinner, not knowing quite what to expect. Well, I can tell you that chef Guillaume Dallay provided me with an excellent culinary experience. I was seated at the back of the elegant dining room with a nice view of the Loire rolling by. Light classical music was the background for the hum of the other diners. It was interesting that they were all older and several couples appeared very charming in their interaction with the wait staff and each other. I settled in for an experience different than the others given the ambiance of this place.
Of course, I began with a Campari and soda to cleanse the palate. I decided on the gist of my meal and ordered a 2003 Chateau Larmande from Saint Emilion. This has been my fourth or fifth bottle of red from that area and they have all been superior. A small tray of starters was delivered and I finished my Campari. In a few moments the sommelier delivered and decanted my wine, a first for this trip. He a tually tasted the wine before decanting. Nice.
The first course was a Terrine de Foie Gras de Canard mi-cut au natural, marmalade de Granny Smith au porto rouge et anguille de Loire Fumee. It was beautifully presented and the taste combinations were great. The Foie GRAS with the marmalade coupled with lightly toasted bread was so good. The Foie Gras was like sweet butter. I was very deliberate in my enjoyment.
Next came Aile de Pigeonneau de Racan Roti aux Griottes, Risotto aux ceps de noter region sur Bruschetta de Farce Fine. The cherries with the perfectly done squab was very tasty. The Bruschetta was delicate and tasty. The Risotto was light and an elegant combination for the other portions of this serving. I was so happy.
The cheese course followed and the selection of those presented, there were 23 different local cheeses, helped me to finish my wine. The tasting began with light and finished with nice, strong selections.
Finally came the most amazing dessert. Sphere Chocolate Noir en Chaud-Froid avec Framboises Fraiches Noix de Pecan Creme Glacee a la Vanille. Basically, it was a chocolate ball filled with raspberries and ice cream. After the ball was presented they poured warm chocolate over it to melt the ball. How did they do that? It was so good! Chocolate melting chocolate over raspberries and vanilla ice cream. OMG!
I sipped a coffee and tried to gather my composure. When I got back to the room, I flopped. I may never eat so well again...until next time. A hui hou.
Thursday, September 23, 2010
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
A Wonderful Ending
After a large salad and a bit of pork pie, we headed to Lower Slaughter for a stroll. As an aside, it has been so nice to have lunch in the apartment's corner room overlooking the gardens. But, back to our walk. We parked in the village and stalked off through the meadows and along a brisk little trout stream toward Upper Slaughter. Making our way past quaint cottages, we arrived at the tea room situated in the gardens of the Upper Slaughter Rectory. We had our tea and basked in the afternoon sun. After a time we gathered ourselves up and headed back to from whence we'd come. The reward for our trek back was a fine selection of homemade cakes being served at the Lower Slaughter Village Hall. Now that we've had our walk and our tea and our cakes, we head back to the manor for a glass of sherry. How civilized.
It's time to head back to France. Back to more wine, less tea and cake.
It's time to head back to France. Back to more wine, less tea and cake.
The Old Post Office
We began the morning with a brisk walk through Brockhampton and into the hills. Upon our return to the manor we jumped into the car and headed for the Old Post Office in Guiting Power for coffee and cake. Stepping into this place immediately brought me to the realization that it had something special. A very charming set of proprietors, a mother and two daughters, tend to this delightful little shop, preparing coffees and cakes while chatting with their regular patrons as they come and go. The level and tone of the conversation was at the same time engaging and soothing. The musical interactions might carry one back to a sweeter time. I could've sat for hours, hypnotized by the melodic essence which existed within this small space. But,alas, the coffee and homemade lemon cake are finished. It is time to get on with my day. One day I will come back to this lovely little corner of the Cotswolds.
Food of the Cotswolds
While I would not describe the cuisine as gormet, it is definitely hearty, country fare. From Lardycake to Pork Pie to Clotted Cream, the tastes are quite varied and often delicious. An example might be my dinner at the Green Dragon Inn near Elkston. I began with a very nice salad of fig, gorgonzola and greens. Next came a steak and kidney pudding with smashed peas. That may not sound very appealing but it was very tasty. The pudding gravy was rich and the mint infused peas were a refreshing addition to the heavy pudding. Also, if you've never had clotted cream, well, it's just unbelievably delicious, especially on a chocolate brownie. That's about it for food.
The Cotswolds, a Different Paradise
The Cotswolds, which is three hours west of London, is a very picturesque area encased in gently rolling hills laced with narrow, curvy roads which connect quaint little 12th, 13th, 14th, and 15th century villages. The village cafes and shops are all the more charming because the proprietors and the patrons are exceedingly cordial and inviting. Each village's buildings have a unique aura, unlike any I have experienced across Europe. The theory is that the stone building materials, unique to this area, used in the villages as well as the fencerows, exude a warmth that lightens people's hearts. The hue of the stones are reminiscent of Tuscany.
Driving about must be deliberate and, therefore, forgiving because of the narrow, curvy nature of the road network, which appears to be a simple progression of stone age pathways. Looking down each valley reveals a succession of small fields full of sheep or horses or cows guarded by intricately woven hedgerows. There is a checkerboard of brilliant greens that roll about in one's mind.
All in all, rain or shine, this is a very pleasant corner of the world. My time here has been so peaceful. I'm leaving with just the slightest hint of a smile. I look forward to my return.
Driving about must be deliberate and, therefore, forgiving because of the narrow, curvy nature of the road network, which appears to be a simple progression of stone age pathways. Looking down each valley reveals a succession of small fields full of sheep or horses or cows guarded by intricately woven hedgerows. There is a checkerboard of brilliant greens that roll about in one's mind.
All in all, rain or shine, this is a very pleasant corner of the world. My time here has been so peaceful. I'm leaving with just the slightest hint of a smile. I look forward to my return.
I Love England
After a very comfortable bus ride from London's Heathrow Airport, west through Swindon and Cirencester, into the small city of Cheltenham, I met with my friends, David and Danna Cuin. We hugged and headed into the countryside to their manorial home near the quaint little village of Brockhampton.
The home, named Brockhampton Park, which was built in 1641 and expanded to it's current size in the mid-1800s, is surrounded by beautiful gardens. The place was renovated a few years ago and then divided into 21 apartments. The Cuins occupy what were the Governess' quarters on the third floor overlooking the front gardens. We settled into their sitting room, which looks over an expansive lawn dotted with flower beds and several large, ornate topiaries, and chatted about what we might do over the coming days.
After a very nice dinner we strolled down a country lane into the village, settling into the Craven Arms, the local pub. We sipped local ales, recounted days gone by, and talked more about the days to come. After too many beers we made our way home and into a well deserved night's sleep.
I arose early to watch the morning sun spread across the green fields beyond the gardens. It was extremely peaceful. We had a light breakfast and then drove to the nearby village of Winchcombe
The home, named Brockhampton Park, which was built in 1641 and expanded to it's current size in the mid-1800s, is surrounded by beautiful gardens. The place was renovated a few years ago and then divided into 21 apartments. The Cuins occupy what were the Governess' quarters on the third floor overlooking the front gardens. We settled into their sitting room, which looks over an expansive lawn dotted with flower beds and several large, ornate topiaries, and chatted about what we might do over the coming days.
After a very nice dinner we strolled down a country lane into the village, settling into the Craven Arms, the local pub. We sipped local ales, recounted days gone by, and talked more about the days to come. After too many beers we made our way home and into a well deserved night's sleep.
I arose early to watch the morning sun spread across the green fields beyond the gardens. It was extremely peaceful. We had a light breakfast and then drove to the nearby village of Winchcombe
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
Thoughts on Leaving Paris
I've had a few more meals other than those I discussed in great detail. I had some outstanding gnocchi at Le Petite Cour and some excellent duck at Le Comptoir but, enough is enough about food.
As I was strolling back to the hotel after a late dinner, it struck me that I was experiencing the reason I love Paris. Walking through the labyrinth of streets in old Paris, I took notice that, even at midnight the cafes were full. The chatter was constant and the laughter was musical. I had to walk in the street because the sidewalks were clogged with dinner tables and it was a joy. I turned down the Rue de Seine toward the river and suddenly there was a peaceful quiet. The shops were all closed and only a few couples strolled along with me. I made my way along the Quai Voltaire and across the Seine on Pont Royal. Crossing the Quai Louvre, I wandered along the pathway between the Louve and the Jardin DES Tuileries. I noticed a small group of men sharing a bottle of wine. There were two women having a cigarette. There was a young couple kissing under a street light. There was a larger group of young people laughing and drinking. The city was peaceful yet full of life. I smiled as I crossed Rivoli and turned into the hotel. Yes, this walk reminder me of why I love Paris.
I thought about this hotel and the way I spent these last few days. The hotel was nice. It was in a perfect location and I loved the spa, but, overall it was a total waste of money. For my next visit I'll find a nice little apartment in a neighborhood where the real Paris lives. The people in hotels like this one visit Paris but their spirit never leaves Omaha (or wherever they visit from). In the neighborhoods you can feel the heartbeat of the city. Also, I'll spend more time. It's not good for me to cram too much into too little. I need a day or two between each gourmet experience. Some time to recover. So, when I talk to you about my trip next year, or the next, remind me to plan a relaxed time.
Mahalo nui loa for enduring my ramblings. Now it's off to England and the Cotswolds.
As I was strolling back to the hotel after a late dinner, it struck me that I was experiencing the reason I love Paris. Walking through the labyrinth of streets in old Paris, I took notice that, even at midnight the cafes were full. The chatter was constant and the laughter was musical. I had to walk in the street because the sidewalks were clogged with dinner tables and it was a joy. I turned down the Rue de Seine toward the river and suddenly there was a peaceful quiet. The shops were all closed and only a few couples strolled along with me. I made my way along the Quai Voltaire and across the Seine on Pont Royal. Crossing the Quai Louvre, I wandered along the pathway between the Louve and the Jardin DES Tuileries. I noticed a small group of men sharing a bottle of wine. There were two women having a cigarette. There was a young couple kissing under a street light. There was a larger group of young people laughing and drinking. The city was peaceful yet full of life. I smiled as I crossed Rivoli and turned into the hotel. Yes, this walk reminder me of why I love Paris.
I thought about this hotel and the way I spent these last few days. The hotel was nice. It was in a perfect location and I loved the spa, but, overall it was a total waste of money. For my next visit I'll find a nice little apartment in a neighborhood where the real Paris lives. The people in hotels like this one visit Paris but their spirit never leaves Omaha (or wherever they visit from). In the neighborhoods you can feel the heartbeat of the city. Also, I'll spend more time. It's not good for me to cram too much into too little. I need a day or two between each gourmet experience. Some time to recover. So, when I talk to you about my trip next year, or the next, remind me to plan a relaxed time.
Mahalo nui loa for enduring my ramblings. Now it's off to England and the Cotswolds.
L'Atelier du Joel Robuchon
I charged back across the Seine with the expectation that I was about to reach the pinnacle of my culinary adventure. Well, we all know what a bugger expectations can be. I arrived early so that I might spend a bit of time absorbing the energy which must exist in this place that houses the beginning of one of the most successful gastronomic enterprises in the world. Very graciously I was seated in the hotel bar attached to the restaurant. I sat with my typical Campari and soda, waiting for my seating. How great to be at this place at this time.
Before I could finish my drink I was escorted to my seat at the serving bar and placed in the capable hands of my guide through the extensive menu, Gaelle. I selected a 2003 Medoc to highlight the taste bonanza that I expected was coming. I was correct in my wine choice and in my expectation that the variety of tastes would be off the chart.
I began with Le Crab en Tempura sur use Puree d'Avocat Acidulee. It was a beautiful presentation and the tastes were an excellent blend of sweet and tart. The sweetness of the crab was punctuated by the citrus blended in the very buttery avocado base. The avocado reminded me of the ones that grow on the farm. However, I would say that, while the tastes were excellent, the tempura did not bring much to this dish. It was a bit soft and actually detracted from the texture of the tasting. Of, well, let's move on.
My second round was Les Grirolles sur un lit de Macaronis au Fois Gras Sot-L'y Laisse au jus. Here the taste and textures were excellent. The vegetables were al dente and the fois GRAS was firm on the outside while deliciously soft on the inside. The au jus was excellent and I savored the tastes within this dish for a very long time. While the first course was just o.k., this was beyond my expectations.
Next I will have Le Fois de Veau aux Rouelles d'Oignon croustillantes et ses Pommes Grenailles Confites. What an unbelievably rich dish this was. The meat was placed on a bed of sautéed greens and covered with very delicately fried and very thin onion rings. At this point I began to realize that I may have gone a step too far. The richness was too much. The herbs and the onions were very nicely done but they could not offset the slightly off-taste of the meat. I'm not certain what it was, but, it was difficult for me to finish.
I did finish and decided to move my palet back to it's center with a plate of cheeses. The plate had two soft cheeses and two hard. The goat and blue cheeses were excellent, with the blue being the best. The soft cheeses were good but the camabert was unfinished in the middle, which was somewhat disappointing. Another, oh well.
I finished with a lovely dessert of framboise and gelato, which settled my taste buds and allowed my to successfully exit this somewhat disappointing experience. When compared to my culinary experiences over the past few days, this was very average and was not a pinnacle. The ambiance of this place was interesting. The food preparation area, which was within easy view, was amazingly subdued. The staff was very friendly and efficient. While the seating configuration was initially off-putting, I warmed to it as I talked with my adjacent fellow diners. I met a very nice couple from Manilla, a nice gentleman from Brazil and a lovely woman from Chile. Each of them, in their own way, contributed nicely to my overall experience. This was an experience that I had to have but it is not an experience I will need to repeat any time soon. Now, it's onward and upward.
Before I could finish my drink I was escorted to my seat at the serving bar and placed in the capable hands of my guide through the extensive menu, Gaelle. I selected a 2003 Medoc to highlight the taste bonanza that I expected was coming. I was correct in my wine choice and in my expectation that the variety of tastes would be off the chart.
I began with Le Crab en Tempura sur use Puree d'Avocat Acidulee. It was a beautiful presentation and the tastes were an excellent blend of sweet and tart. The sweetness of the crab was punctuated by the citrus blended in the very buttery avocado base. The avocado reminded me of the ones that grow on the farm. However, I would say that, while the tastes were excellent, the tempura did not bring much to this dish. It was a bit soft and actually detracted from the texture of the tasting. Of, well, let's move on.
My second round was Les Grirolles sur un lit de Macaronis au Fois Gras Sot-L'y Laisse au jus. Here the taste and textures were excellent. The vegetables were al dente and the fois GRAS was firm on the outside while deliciously soft on the inside. The au jus was excellent and I savored the tastes within this dish for a very long time. While the first course was just o.k., this was beyond my expectations.
Next I will have Le Fois de Veau aux Rouelles d'Oignon croustillantes et ses Pommes Grenailles Confites. What an unbelievably rich dish this was. The meat was placed on a bed of sautéed greens and covered with very delicately fried and very thin onion rings. At this point I began to realize that I may have gone a step too far. The richness was too much. The herbs and the onions were very nicely done but they could not offset the slightly off-taste of the meat. I'm not certain what it was, but, it was difficult for me to finish.
I did finish and decided to move my palet back to it's center with a plate of cheeses. The plate had two soft cheeses and two hard. The goat and blue cheeses were excellent, with the blue being the best. The soft cheeses were good but the camabert was unfinished in the middle, which was somewhat disappointing. Another, oh well.
I finished with a lovely dessert of framboise and gelato, which settled my taste buds and allowed my to successfully exit this somewhat disappointing experience. When compared to my culinary experiences over the past few days, this was very average and was not a pinnacle. The ambiance of this place was interesting. The food preparation area, which was within easy view, was amazingly subdued. The staff was very friendly and efficient. While the seating configuration was initially off-putting, I warmed to it as I talked with my adjacent fellow diners. I met a very nice couple from Manilla, a nice gentleman from Brazil and a lovely woman from Chile. Each of them, in their own way, contributed nicely to my overall experience. This was an experience that I had to have but it is not an experience I will need to repeat any time soon. Now, it's onward and upward.
Sunday, September 12, 2010
Les Violon d'Ingres of chefs Christian Constant et Stephane Schmidt
I arose at mid-morning to a cloudy, misty day. I gathered my belongings which would be necessary for the day as I has planned it and retired to the hotel lobby for an espresso. Today's plan would take me a few kilometers across Paris and, on such a misty day, that might not be such a delightful walk. My destination was in the direction of the Tour Eiffel so, off I go. I begin my journey with a walk down the Rue de Rivoli, I skirt the Place de la Concorde and cross the Seine on a bridge garnished with gold. Even in the mist the sights are beautiful. Walking along the Quai d'Orsay, I pass DES Invalides and cut away from the Seine to the Rue Saint-Dominique. This area is not a tourist destination but there are still many people scurrying about in search of their morning coffee and a baguette for breakfast. I arrive at the restaurant rather early so I wile away the time reading and watching people begin their day.
Finally, the restaurant opens. I enter and ask if I might have lunch. The maitre'd checks the seating schedule and allows me to sit. Maybe it was a single diner concern. No matter. I am introduced to my very young and quite gracious server. He explains my options and I make my selections. He heads away and I sit back, beginning to read the book I have been wise enough to bring.
First comes a serving of quite delicious and very light cheese breads. Also, my wine to match my first course arrives. I have selected a 2006 Lalande de Pomerol from the Chateau Grand Ormeau. The wine is quite dry and, luckily, is a fine match for the fois GRAS I have selected. The dish is a Fois Gras de Canard Poele au Pain d'Epices avec Peche Rotie au Miel d'Acacia. Who could have imagined that duck's liver could be combined with peaches to create such an elegant taste? The hint of honey in the robust sauce was an excellent highlight for the combined soft texture of the fois GRAS and the crunch of the peach. I savored each taste. I have seldom eaten so deliberately.
My second selection is one that many would not make. I first had this delicacy many years ago when I lived in Paris. I did not know exactly what I was eating then. I was dining with my then Swedish lover. My attention was on her and not the food. This time the food is my love. The serving is a Tete de Veau, Langue et Cervelle Pouchees Gribiche aux Pistils de Safran. Would you have selected calves brains with potatoes in a mild lemon sauce? I'll tell you that the fatty portion of this meat was so sweet and the meaty portion was so tender that, when combined with the slight crunch of the potato, my taste buds were dancing around my mouth. I took something of a chance and I won, big time. The wine I matched with this selection was a 2007 Pauillac, 2nd Baron Nathaniel from the winery of Baron Phillip de Rothschild. Being slightly sweeter than my wine with the first course, it was a good compliment to this selection. Once again, I found myself savoring each bite. I began to notice an elderly French gentleman glancing at me from time to time. He'd been watching me enjoy my meal. When we caught each others glance, he raised his wine glass to me and smiled. His wife had her back to me so, she turned and smiled. They were entertained by watching me realize so much enjoyment. I returned their smile and awaited my final selection.
My final serving was a piece of pure sweetness. When the vanilla soufflé arrived A smile crossed my lips. When the server pour warm caramel into the middle of this puff of delight I sat forward. I hesitated for a moment to regard this beautifully done masterpiece. The aroma was so nice. I slowly punctured the crust with my spoon and exhaled my first taste. There was no savoring this soufflé. It just melted in my mouth. A slight smile remained on my face until the soufflé was finished.
I sipped my espresso and awaited my check. I wondered at the elegance of this petite restaurant. It was deep and narrow. I watched the elderly couple with enjoyment, wondering if I'd be realizing such culinary adventures at their age? I observed the family seated just down from them, with their dynamics of parent-child interaction over food selection and sharing. I briefly watched a young couple, so obviously in love, chatting away about who knows what. The very efficient staff produced my check, I paid and found my way back onto Rue Saint-Dominique. I wander the back streets for a bit, to walk off a few calories. Eventually I found my way back across the Seine, into the hotel and then into a delightful nap. Tomorrow is a day filled with culinary delights so, I won't eat more today. I'll just wallow in my very contentment.
Finally, the restaurant opens. I enter and ask if I might have lunch. The maitre'd checks the seating schedule and allows me to sit. Maybe it was a single diner concern. No matter. I am introduced to my very young and quite gracious server. He explains my options and I make my selections. He heads away and I sit back, beginning to read the book I have been wise enough to bring.
First comes a serving of quite delicious and very light cheese breads. Also, my wine to match my first course arrives. I have selected a 2006 Lalande de Pomerol from the Chateau Grand Ormeau. The wine is quite dry and, luckily, is a fine match for the fois GRAS I have selected. The dish is a Fois Gras de Canard Poele au Pain d'Epices avec Peche Rotie au Miel d'Acacia. Who could have imagined that duck's liver could be combined with peaches to create such an elegant taste? The hint of honey in the robust sauce was an excellent highlight for the combined soft texture of the fois GRAS and the crunch of the peach. I savored each taste. I have seldom eaten so deliberately.
My second selection is one that many would not make. I first had this delicacy many years ago when I lived in Paris. I did not know exactly what I was eating then. I was dining with my then Swedish lover. My attention was on her and not the food. This time the food is my love. The serving is a Tete de Veau, Langue et Cervelle Pouchees Gribiche aux Pistils de Safran. Would you have selected calves brains with potatoes in a mild lemon sauce? I'll tell you that the fatty portion of this meat was so sweet and the meaty portion was so tender that, when combined with the slight crunch of the potato, my taste buds were dancing around my mouth. I took something of a chance and I won, big time. The wine I matched with this selection was a 2007 Pauillac, 2nd Baron Nathaniel from the winery of Baron Phillip de Rothschild. Being slightly sweeter than my wine with the first course, it was a good compliment to this selection. Once again, I found myself savoring each bite. I began to notice an elderly French gentleman glancing at me from time to time. He'd been watching me enjoy my meal. When we caught each others glance, he raised his wine glass to me and smiled. His wife had her back to me so, she turned and smiled. They were entertained by watching me realize so much enjoyment. I returned their smile and awaited my final selection.
My final serving was a piece of pure sweetness. When the vanilla soufflé arrived A smile crossed my lips. When the server pour warm caramel into the middle of this puff of delight I sat forward. I hesitated for a moment to regard this beautifully done masterpiece. The aroma was so nice. I slowly punctured the crust with my spoon and exhaled my first taste. There was no savoring this soufflé. It just melted in my mouth. A slight smile remained on my face until the soufflé was finished.
I sipped my espresso and awaited my check. I wondered at the elegance of this petite restaurant. It was deep and narrow. I watched the elderly couple with enjoyment, wondering if I'd be realizing such culinary adventures at their age? I observed the family seated just down from them, with their dynamics of parent-child interaction over food selection and sharing. I briefly watched a young couple, so obviously in love, chatting away about who knows what. The very efficient staff produced my check, I paid and found my way back onto Rue Saint-Dominique. I wander the back streets for a bit, to walk off a few calories. Eventually I found my way back across the Seine, into the hotel and then into a delightful nap. Tomorrow is a day filled with culinary delights so, I won't eat more today. I'll just wallow in my very contentment.
Le Pinxo of Chef Alain Dutournier
Between the Rue de Rivoli, with it's throngs of tourists, and the Rue du Faubourg-Saint Honore, with it's very fashionable shops and wealthy patron, you'll find the Rue du Mont Thabor. It is a destination street. While it is in the center of the city, it seems far away from the maddening crowd. Walking down this indistinct street you'll come upon a seemingly out-of-place sign announcing the Renaissance Paris Vendome Hotel. Passing through the darkened glass doors you'll enter a small, art deco lobby. As you regard the lobby you may notice a small sign near a set of dark wooden doors. Pull back one of those doors and you'll find a very subdued waiting area. Occasionally staff rushes through and shortly a very proper young man will escort you to your table in the extremely well appointed restaurant. It is my considered belief that you have now entered a small corner of culinary heaven.
I was seated near a table of eight, four men at one end of the table and four women at the other end. The men spoke softly as if they were passing some state secrets. The women were more robust and outspoken with their sharing of opinions. Each group talked amongst themselves, with little sharing from one end of the table to the other. I will observe them and try to pair them. It will be an interesting diversion. My server, a rather haughty and very French young woman arrived shortly to guide me through my evening. I began with a Campari and soda to cleanse my pallet as I perused the extensive menu. After I had made my selections the sommelier arrived to assist me with my wine selection. I chose a 2006 Gevrey Chambertin from Domaine Denis Mortet. It was a very nice match for the first two courses.
The first course was a Petit Pates Chauds de Cepes sous Capet de Lentins. The cap of the Capet mushroom was placed upon a small tower of pate. The serving was so beautifully presented that I hesitated to disturb it. I waited and watched for a moment. Finally, I sliced into this soft and mild yet earthy delight. I hesitated after each small bite, savoring the combination of textures and sipping my wine.
Second course was a Noisettes d'Agneau DEs Pyrennes avec Truffe de Saison Rapee sur Cannellonis Forestiere-Cresson Froisse. Taking a small piece of lamb, then combining it with a slice of truffle and placing that over a section of stuffed cannelloni created such an unbelievable tasting experience. I sat back after each taste, sipped a bit more wine and then leaned forward for another. This may not be the best lamb I have ever tasted but the combination of textures and smells and flavors was certainly spectacular.
The wine seems to have evaporated somewhere during the first two courses. To compliment my final serving I ordered a Cognac de Petite Champagne Normandin Mercier. The cognac arrived slightly before my dessert. I sipped. It was a little to strong for the dessert of Peche Blanche Rafraichie avec Nectar Bellini et Lait d'Amande. To finish a rather heavy dinner with such a light, delicate and sweet dessert was perfect. The peach blended so well with the nectar and the cream. Each taste just melted in my mouth. When I'd finished I leaned back and again began to sip my cognac.
My server, I asked her name but could not understand what she said and I was to embarrassed to ask again, seemed satisfied that I was nearly finished. Now a rather funny thing happened. The same sort of thing has happened on a couple of other occasions. The server brought me what must've been her favorite fine dining finishing touch. She brought me an espresso with a side of very cold Armagnac. Now, I was really finished! I bid the staff "bon soirée" and waddled up to my room.
Finally, I must report that I have seldom had a more satisfying dining experience. Observing the table of patrons next to me was an interesting diversion. Watching the interaction of the staff with its political drama often brought a smile to my face. The overall ambiance was just perfect. This experience bears firm testimony to my new belief that dining alone can be rewarding and refreshing. I can't wait for my next culinary adventure.
I was seated near a table of eight, four men at one end of the table and four women at the other end. The men spoke softly as if they were passing some state secrets. The women were more robust and outspoken with their sharing of opinions. Each group talked amongst themselves, with little sharing from one end of the table to the other. I will observe them and try to pair them. It will be an interesting diversion. My server, a rather haughty and very French young woman arrived shortly to guide me through my evening. I began with a Campari and soda to cleanse my pallet as I perused the extensive menu. After I had made my selections the sommelier arrived to assist me with my wine selection. I chose a 2006 Gevrey Chambertin from Domaine Denis Mortet. It was a very nice match for the first two courses.
The first course was a Petit Pates Chauds de Cepes sous Capet de Lentins. The cap of the Capet mushroom was placed upon a small tower of pate. The serving was so beautifully presented that I hesitated to disturb it. I waited and watched for a moment. Finally, I sliced into this soft and mild yet earthy delight. I hesitated after each small bite, savoring the combination of textures and sipping my wine.
Second course was a Noisettes d'Agneau DEs Pyrennes avec Truffe de Saison Rapee sur Cannellonis Forestiere-Cresson Froisse. Taking a small piece of lamb, then combining it with a slice of truffle and placing that over a section of stuffed cannelloni created such an unbelievable tasting experience. I sat back after each taste, sipped a bit more wine and then leaned forward for another. This may not be the best lamb I have ever tasted but the combination of textures and smells and flavors was certainly spectacular.
The wine seems to have evaporated somewhere during the first two courses. To compliment my final serving I ordered a Cognac de Petite Champagne Normandin Mercier. The cognac arrived slightly before my dessert. I sipped. It was a little to strong for the dessert of Peche Blanche Rafraichie avec Nectar Bellini et Lait d'Amande. To finish a rather heavy dinner with such a light, delicate and sweet dessert was perfect. The peach blended so well with the nectar and the cream. Each taste just melted in my mouth. When I'd finished I leaned back and again began to sip my cognac.
My server, I asked her name but could not understand what she said and I was to embarrassed to ask again, seemed satisfied that I was nearly finished. Now a rather funny thing happened. The same sort of thing has happened on a couple of other occasions. The server brought me what must've been her favorite fine dining finishing touch. She brought me an espresso with a side of very cold Armagnac. Now, I was really finished! I bid the staff "bon soirée" and waddled up to my room.
Finally, I must report that I have seldom had a more satisfying dining experience. Observing the table of patrons next to me was an interesting diversion. Watching the interaction of the staff with its political drama often brought a smile to my face. The overall ambiance was just perfect. This experience bears firm testimony to my new belief that dining alone can be rewarding and refreshing. I can't wait for my next culinary adventure.
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