Thoughts on Sorrento, Amalfi, Capri

My entry into Sorrento was memorable for the city is couched in a very beautiful place.  The old city of Sorrento was very nice, much like many other cities in Italy, but distinguished by its place overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.  However, as a result of the wondrous environment, this city might be a bit more crowded with tourists than most in Italy.  The surrounding expanse was similar to most every city in the world, overgrown, overcrowded and noisy.

The food in Sorrento was very good and will be discussed with each restaurant.  Dinner at the only Michelin starred restaurant (Il Buco) was very nice but the only place I revisited was L'Antico Trattoria. 

Driving the Amalfi Coast was astounding.  The coastline was so beautiful.  Trying to look at the steep marble cliffs dropping into the deep blue sea made it difficult to negotiate the narrow, curvy roads.  Couple the narrow roads with countless tour buses and one has the potential for serious driving adventure around each bend in the road.  The countryside was, even in late autumn, full and lush and green.  Orchards of olive trees and lemon trees were everywhere.  While the countryside was breathtaking, the villages were, if they were scenic, very overcrowded.  If the villages were not rustic and well maintained, which many were not, then there was no traffic and few tourists.  So, I concluded that taking a quick look at the beautiful spots was sufficient but for a coffee, I'd stop in a poorly kept village.  There were fewer tourist, better service and better coffee in the plain, out-of-the-way cafes.

My trip to Capri Island was, I'm sorry to overuse this word, breathtaking, too.  The ferry ride, while crowded and very noisy due to the utter excitement of the hordes traveling to this unique island, made a lovely cruise along the coast and then out to that most amazing place.  I must admit that I've seen few islands more beautiful.  Once again, the wonder has drawn many people.  They seemed to wander about in groups around the marina and in the city of Capri.  However, in the upper city of Anacapri, the congestion was much less and the overview was spectacular.  I really enjoyed strolling about Anacapri.  My mind was set to determine if this would be a good place for me to write my novel.  However, the tone was a bit off for me, so, despite its beauty, and a quite inspiring beauty I'm sure it would be, I don't believe this will be the place.  Perhaps next year's visit to Sicily will solve that riddle.

My conclusion regarding my week in the Amalfi area was that the time was well spent.  The beauty was memorable, I was very happy that I visited those places but it is not a place to which I will need to return for a few years…and I am not a young man.  So, it's off to the next adventure, Torino and the Salone del Gusto.

Il Buco, Sorrento

I had scouted the restaurant, the only Michelin starred place in town, and it seemed very unpretentious.  As I dressed for dinner I wondered if just a sweater would be correct but, finally, elected to wear a jacket.  As I was ushered into the lower climes of this deceptively beautiful place I was happy to be, at least somewhat, well dressed.

The lower dining area was elegant and subdued.  The service was attentive and friendly.  Before the menu arrive I was served a very large Campari with Prosecco.  Also, a serving of thinly sliced polenta with salumi, spiced tomatoes and dried tomatoes arrived.  I settled into the evening, watching and listening to my fellow diners.  However, in this place they were difficult to listen to because of the stone ceiling.  I relaxed.

The menu arrived as I was about halfway through my Campari.  It was quite large.  I perused.  The waiter watched and then returned.  I asked if I could have the wine list.  When it arrived I again perused.  After a time, my Campari finished, I signaled for the waiter, who had been waiting patiently.  We came to an Italian/American understanding.  We would speak Italian when I was capable and he would switch to his excellent English when I was above my level.  We both smiled and I showed him the wine I wanted, a 1999 La Spinetta Gallina, a Barbaresco.  He agreed that he would serve me those things that the chef was making this evening that matched my wine.  We nodded to each other, shook hands,he turned and was off.  I sat back.

I would not labor over the extensive details of this fine repast, for there were many servings.  There were Prawns and Calamari and Tuna and Lamb and Sea Bass.  Each serving was unique in taste and texture.  Each was beautifully presented.  Each serving was not presented until it was clear that I was prepared for that portion of the meal.  Each serving matched the soft, delicate wine very nicely.

However, there was one portion that has been frozen in my memory.  The Risotto with herbs, cubes of encrusted tuna, black truffles and a dollop of outstanding but very light ricotta cheese.  The risotto was tender and sweet.  The tuna,encrusted with caraway seeds, was firm on the outside but moist and tender on the inside.  I tried several combinations before I arrived at the one I enjoyed most.  That tasting involved cutting a small piece of tuna and combining it with a bit of black truffle.  I would allow that to rest in my mouth for a moment, until the truffle began to dissolve.  I would closely follow that with a fork full of the deeply rich risotto swirled in the light ricotta cheese.  A sip of the dark fruited wine was a perfect cap to each tasting.  The range of tastes and textures was vast, so vast that I cannot recall a greater range of single tasting.  I was very happy and, in the end, very full.

My dinner finished, I ordered a coffee with grappa.  The waiter took my order but asked if I would come with him.  He took me deeper into the caves and into the kitchen.  He explained that he wanted to introduce me to the people who had prepared my dinner and to the chef.  The chef and I had a nice chat about his combinations and how difficult it was to get the best ingredients.  It was a very nice gesture.  I returned to my coffee with grappa.  I drink it slowly and as I strolled out of this very fine restaurant the chef came again.  We shook hands and agreed to meet again for another dining experience.

Pictures of this meal appeared on Facebook.