Harry and Izzy's: the best of Indianapolis

Carving our way through the city's downtown reconstruction in preparation for the next Super Bowl, amazingly we land in front what is purported to be Indianapolis' best eatery, Harry and Izzy's.  I was not aware of the fame of this center city food palace but my brother, David, came loaded with a healthy appetite.  Fortunately, given the construction, there was valet parking so we had a few moments to stroll about the downtown.  We briefly viewed the new 5-star hotel, The Conrad, and we peeked into the elegant old Canterbury Hotel just next to the restaurant.  It was good to know that such places existed given the possibility of a future visit.

Just before our scheduled time we entered this lushly appointed sports bar for a possible early seating.  We were easily accommodated and settled into a very nice leather booth in an smaller room just off of the bar.  It would be a good space to have our brotherly chat as contrasted to the much larger and noisier bar area.  As we were escorted through the main bar area I notice that the patrons were a large, earthy group and they reminded me of my life as a young boy growing up in the heartland.  Our waiter brought menus and a wine list.  We perused and chatted as light jazz played in the background.  After a time the waiter returned with some lovely breads and to receive our selections.  David selected a glass of house chardonnay and I ordered a bottle of 2008 Domaine Drouhin Pinot, which we would hopefully eventually share.  White wine drinkers in steak joints befuddle me.  Yes, as I looked over the menu it was obvious that this was a steak place.

For starters we would share an over sized portion of this restaurant's renowned Shrimp Cocktail to be covered in a very spicy horseradish sauce.  David's dinner choice was a medium Rib eye Steak with a side of Potato Pancakes (a Hoosier/German delicacy).  For me, who seldom orders a steak away from home, the Rack of Lamb on the rare side with a side of Asparagus Spears would be just fine.  We sipped and waited, but not for too long.  The Shrimp Cocktail was served shortly and it was covered in a sauce that was truly spicy.  The shrimp were large and meaty.  The meat was firm so they had been perfectly cooked.  The sauce was "eye watering" and certainly not a good sauce for wine.  So, we slowly nibbled away at this dish and sipped our cold waters.  The waiter did an excellent job of pacing our dinner, probably knowing that it would take us awhile to finish the spicy shrimp.

The remains of the appetizer were removed and our entrees were delivered.  The steak serving looked like a typical steak serving, possibly a bit larger.  However, the Rack of Lamb looked great.  We stopped our chatting and addressed the mass of meat before us.  The lamb was seated in a bed of delicious orange sauce and was perfectly cooked.  Each morsel was tender and, when dipped into the sauce, was perfectly spiced.  The Asparagus Spears were a beautiful green and they, too, were nicely cooked.  They had been bathed in butter, making each taste rich and each bite crisp.  I did not have a taste of David's steak but I do recall hearing several moans of culinary pleasure from his side of the booth.  We finished with a dessert which was not memorable.

I do not frequent steak houses in the normal course of my culinary adventures but, this is America's heartland where meat is king, so, there I was.  The ambiance was nice, although it would have been quite noisy in the main dining/bar area, the service was friendly and perfectly paced, and the food was excellent.  It might not be a place I would revisit but I am not sorry for the time we spent at Harry and Izzy's.

Farm to Fork Hawaii

There is a growing movement around the world to consume foods that are grown close to the point of consumption.  Restaurants and regular people are buying fresher foods from local growers.  My experience at the Kealakekua Bed & Breakfast under the logo of Farm to Fork Hawaii guided by the effervescent Emily Peacock is a part of that movement.

One warm evening I gathered up my dining companion for this event, Virginia, and we set off for what we expected would be a wonderful culinary adventure.  We trekked down curvy Napoopoo Road to a well manicured terrace of green set amidst a sea of black lava and overlooking scenic Kealakekua Bay to sit with a small group of "foodies" for an evening of fine dining.  We were to experience the culinary skills of local chef and culinary instructor, Paul Heerlein (www.chefpaulhawaii.com) and we were not to be disappointed.

The ambiance of the open air dining overlooking the ocean was excellent, although the crowd was a bit raucous at times. For those of us fortunate enough to face the bay, we did see a "green flash" from that evening's sunset.  The soft background music was very nice and the wait staff did an excellent job despite their young ages.  Overall, it was a very collegial evening.

Regarding the menu, we began with a very nice array of hors d'oeuvers (pupus to local people) including (1) a Pipikaula, Brie and Cherry Tomato Crostini, (2)Ahi Poke Cones with a Wasabi Aioli and Tobiko, (3) Braised Kamuela Beef with CP's Kona Coffee Barbeque Sauce on a Roy Honda Tomato slice in a Compote with Goat Cheese Sauce, and (4) Uncle Jim's Shrimp Seviche on a Roy Honda Cucumber slice.  There were plentiful servings and they were well complimented with an array of crisp white wines.

Our appetizer was a delicious Ahi Tuna Carpaccio with shaved Parmigianino Reggiano cheese and Capers, all dressed with freshly squeezed lemon and drizzled with a very tasty Olive Oil. It was really a melt in your mouth first course.  Our soup was a nicely presented Lomi lomi Tomato Cappuccino with an Ono Gravlox Crostini.  The Cappuccino had a rich tomato taste and was accented with watercress, sweet onion and grapefruit.  It was nicely peppered yielding an excellent array of tastes with each bite.  The Crostini had an excellent cheese and was perfectly done.  The wine with both of these courses was a Sella & Mosca Vermentino which provided a firm melon taste but it did seem to have a bit of an aftertaste.

The entree was an outstanding preparation of locally farm raised Kona Kea Shrimp surrounded by a wide range of local vegetables that were tender and succulent.  However, at the center of the beautifully arranged vegetables was a very delicious squash puree which was the star of this course.  This presentation was an excellent representation of the quality of the Chef and his staff.  The entree was accompanied by a very nice Paso Robles Sauvignon Blanc.

The dessert was Emily's Mango and White Chocolate Mousse Phyllo Napoleon with a delicate Surinam Cherry Sauce.  This was a fortunately delicate selection in both texture and taste, making it a very nice close for the meal.  A small glass of Chateaux Saint Michel Riesling followed by a nice cup of French Roast Kona Lisa coffee set the stage for our gradual exit.  It had been a very nice group, with several farmers who had provided the ingredients for the meal in attendance.  I look forward to future dining sessions at this quite lovely location and the opportunity to visit with fellow local "foodies".

If you might be interested in the Farm to Fork concept and events, please contact Emily at 808-328-8150 or e-mail her at f2fhawaii@gmail.com.

The Coast Grille at the Hapuna Prince Resort...delightful

It was a lovely late afternoon as we headed for the seldom discussed Hapuna Prince Resort, the sister property to the world renowned Mauna Kea Resort located just across the road.  We entered the relatively non-descript lobby located some six stories above the ocean and were directed to a set of elevators which would carry us down four floors to the hotel's main restaurant, the Coast Grille.  We exited the elevator, crossed the gardens and came upon a very nice open air dining area with a nice view of the quite large pool area just one more story below and of the beautiful beach inlet two stories down.  The view was nicely panoramic despite a few very large and quite lovely old growth trees which served to partially block the setting sun.  It was still quite warm but there was a nice ocean breeze.  This evening I was being treated to dinner by my frequent dining companion , Sharon.  We perused the menu and wine list as we awaited  our wait person.  She, a very lovely local woman with a beautiful smile and a warm voice, arrived shortly with a plate of freshly baked breads and oil for dipping.  We selected our wine, a 2007 Domaine de l'Arlot "Clos des Floret, Nuits-St-Georges France, and settled in to watch the sun set. 

The horizon was very clear and we hoped for a "green flash" sunset.  As we sipped our wine and nibbled on the breads the sun sank into the ocean, yielding a small but quite brilliant "green flash".  I looked to Sharon and asked if she had seen it.  She had and smiled.  About that time the lady at the next table asked aloud if there had been a "green flash".  I looked in her direction, explaining that there had been a flash but that she would not be able to see it with her sunglasses on.  She turned and looked at me incredulously.  She turned to her husband, asking if he'd seen a "green flash"?  He smiled and looked down at his dinner.  She removed her sunglasses and glared at the horizon as if willing the "green flash" to return for her.  I looked at Sharon and she gave me that look which confirmed my suspicions that I should mind my own business.  We returned to our wine.

Our dinner arrived in good order.  Sharon had a very nice Iceberg Wedge Salad served with House Bacon, fresh buttery Avocado and an excellent Truffle Bleu Cheese Dressing.  I selected the Chilled Nakano Gold Tomato Gazpacho which contained a large dollop of Big Island Goat Cheese, Kamuela Strawberries and sprinkles of Baby Herbs.  I tasted a bit of Sharon's salad and it was good.  However, my Gazpacho was spectacular.  The mild acidity of the golden tomatoes coupled with the sweetness of the strawberries and the smooth, creamy goat cheese was a symphony for the taste buds.  While I did share a bit with my companion I will admit that it was shared grudgingly.  I slowly sipped the feast of tastes and textures, holding each spoonful in my mouth to allow its many taste dimensions to rest on my pallet.  I have never had such good Gazpacho.

After I had virtually licked the bowl clean our entrees were delivered.  Sharon had the a Garlic Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb with Mint Jus and sides of whipped Moloka'i Sweet Potatoes, Dijon Gratin, a serving of Ratatouille.  It must have been good.  She didn't say much during this course and I didn't get a taste.

I feasted on the pan roasted Kurobuta Pork Chop, which was perfectly done with a light crust on the outside while being deliciously moist inside.  My accompaniments were "Kea" Sweet Potato with Thyme Infused Ohia Honey and a Mustard Sauce along with honey coated organic Carrots.  The unique combination of Thyme, Mustard and the strong tasting Ohia Honey was very tasty and an excellent compliment to the meat.

After our entrees we were very satisfied and settled ourselves into nibbling on a dessert of fresh fruits along with smooth sorbets.  We sipped our coffees and shared comments on the glory of this delicious repast.  On the hour drive back to town we talked, as we often did, of the vagaries of life.  Yes, the river of life was flowing more slowly but many of the experiences were as delicious as this evening.  It was a very nice evening.

Village Burger in Waimea...excellent...if you're careful.

Tucked just inside the door to the Parker Ranch Center food court is a very good little "burger kiosk" that is putting together some excellent sandwiches.  With the nifty Hawaiian slogan of "Holo I'a ka papa, kau I'a e ka mann" (when there is food, people gather...duh?...the duh? is mine) as their guide they are making beef burgers and fish burgers and mushroom burgers and taro burgers.  Also, they have a wide range of condiments and "outstanding" fries.

My selection  was the fire grilled Hawaiian Red Veal burger served on a crusty bun with a delicious tomato marmalade and sauteed onions.  The meat, which I always order rare, was outstanding.  The burger is very large and it had a good portion of the very nicely spiced tomato marmalade.  My only criticism was that the bun was dry and crumbly.  The next time I will select a different bun, like their chibotta bun, and that will make this sandwich perfect.  I had an order of their excellent fries and and epic chocolate shake.  Overall, the meal reminded me of the corner burger stands when I was growing up in the middle of America.  I am anxious for a return visit.

Paolo's in Pahoa...it's Italian...so is Paolo!

Pahoa is a dumpy little town just a short drive from Hilo.  It is a throwback to the '60's and so are most of the people who live there.  However, if Paolo decides to open the restaurant then it is worth the drive.  He is a real "Tuscan" and with freshly made pasta every day (pasta fresca) he creates some culinary delights.

My dinner began with an excellent Cippino filled with tender seafood and al dente vegetables served in a rich fish stock broth.  The fish was firm and rich.  The clams were succulent.  The squid was tender.  The serving was enormous and would have been a meal, but I was determined to have "pasta fresca".  However, I must admit to consuming each drop of the soup's savory broth.

I selected a spectacular "ink-squid" linguine style pasta with a puttenesca sauce.  The sauce was perfectly spiced and the pasta was cooked to perfection.  I would roll a bit of the tender pasta on the front of my fork and then I would scoop a good sized portion of the sauce on the rear of the fork.  The combination of texture and spice made a perfect tasting with each bite.  I was a happy camper as I rolled out of Paolo's for my drive back to Hilo.  This is a place I hope to visit more often...it's been 10 years.

Pahui'a at the Four Seasons

The setting was just a bit more than spectacular.  Our table overlooked a lush green lawn which gave way to the surf rolling onto the lava.  The area leading to the ocean was lighted with spot lights so that one's eye could follow the lush green into the frothy white surf and then into the black that was the ocean at night.  The sense was very soothing.

Although this is not a place to frequent, given the ambiance and the excellent service, it is a great place to treat oneself.  The dinner was both good and interesting, maybe even innovative.  My appetiser was a Dungeness Crab Won Ton with a very nicely spiced Red Curry Coconut Sauce.  It was a good beginning.  Next came the Hot & Sour Soup, which included fresh Keahole Shrimp, delicious Pepeiao Mushrooms and Egg Noodles in a nicely spiced broth.  This course was very tasty.

My entree was a very delicious Oyster Marinated Trip-Tip with Crispy Tapioca encrusted Keahole Oysters accompanied by Choy Sum, Kabocha Pumpkin, and Tsukemono Remoulade.  The meat was perfectly done and the encrusted oysters were simply delicious.  This was an excellent serving and was perfect with the wine we had chosen, which was a 2007 Domaine Drouhin Laurene.

This was an memorable dining evening but one could hardly say that it was worth the rather exorbitant price we paid.  There was not value here but, as I said, it is worth an occasional visit.

Deliciousness

It may not be a word but it describes perfectly my feelings after being served the dish I am about to revisit in my mind and my salivary glands.  I have had Gnocchi at this, my favorite local restaurant, many time but this visit was very special.  I'd finished my appetiser of Saint Andre Cheese topped with a dried Black Mission Fig, accompanied by a couple of toasted almonds and placed on a piece of thinly sliced Crostini.  I sat with my glass of Pinot and waited patiently.  When the dish arrived the aroma caused my hand to immediately move to my spoon.  Yes, I eat this with a spoon so that I don't miss one drop of the sauce.  With my weapon at the ready I dove in.  My first bite was a piece of Gnocchi covered with Sherry Cream Sauce and accompanied by a piece of Pattipan Squash.  I held it in my mouth for a few moments before I began to chew very slowly.  I can taste it now.  I can feel the textures.  The second bite contained a piece of perfectly Braised Ulu (breadfruit for the uninitiated) paired with a piece of Hamakua Mushroom.  The crisp Ulu with the soft Mushroom cupped in the creamy sauce was just beyond words.  And so in went until each morsel was consumed.  A bite with the smooth, creamy Gnocchi and the crisp Ulu was especially memorable.  I combined the dish's contents, which include handmade Gnocchi, Hamakua Mushrooms, Hawaiian Pumpkin (crispy on the outside and buttery on the inside), Pattipan Squash, Zephyer Squash, braised Ulu, oven-roasted New Potatoes, Sugar Snap Peas all in a Sherry Cream Sauce and garnished with fresh Parmesan, to construct many savory bite with varied tastes and textures.  It was truly an outstanding dish.