Bencotto's: an Italian eating adventure in America

Bencotto…a bit of Italy in America

This adventure began with a wrong turn.

I had spent my first day away from the monastery looking for restaurants that I had enjoyed many years ago.  Although I did find one eatery, a burger joint named Rocky’s (a big disappointment this time) most had long ago gone the way of the dodo bird.  I wandered around La Jolla and then back down the coast highway to San Diego.  It was a melancholy drive full of fond memories.

The next morning I arose to a full breakfast and a refreshed perspective.  I boarded my trusty steed and headed for the big city.  Somewhere along the way I got my streets confused.  My left turn sent me up a street blocked by, of all things, a farmer’s market, the Little Italy Mercato.  I smiled, found a parking place (that took a few more wrong turns) and wandered down the four blocks of small farmer’s stalls filled with delicious looking fruits and veggies.  Unfortunately, after my large breakfast I was far from hungry.  I sampled a bit of some very good goat cheese and, as I was considering that purchase, I heard people speaking Italian.  I turned away from the lovely cheeses and headed for the real Italians.  I stood in the far corner of that stall, until they had finished their conversation.  I then stepped up to the Italian vendor and asked if any local restaurants served pasta fresco.  He answered with a sad smile that those days were long gone but then he stopped.  He did recall one place.  He drew me a map.  I was off to Bencotto.  I easily found the place and the posted menu looked very interesting.  I entered the open door and was greeted by an older Italian gentleman.  We made arrangements for me to return for dinner and I was off to spend a little more time at the market.

In the late afternoon I returned to Bencotto.  I elected to sit at the end of a long bar.  My seat had an excellent view of the restaurant.  The bartender said that I could have a full dinner at the bar, so I settled in.  As it ended up, there were three bartenders and each of them had an excellent knowledge of the menu and the wine list.  Their service was excellent and they greatly enhanced my enjoyment of this fine repast.

After I had made my food choices I selected a 2008 Rosso di Montalcino to compliment my meal.  However, with each course one of the bartenders would bring me a small glass of another of their wines that they thought would better compliment that serving.  I wasn’t wise enough to record each of those but they were always correct in their wine choice.  It was a bit like a degustation and I loved it.

My first course was Pecorino di Fossa.  The aged sheep’s milk cheese was semi soft and had just a bit of a bite.  The cheese was complimented with dried Black Mission Figs and Agave Honey.  I would take a small portion of the cheese and top it with a piece of fig.  That was delicious.  The taste and texture combination was perfect.  When the figs were finished I would swirl my small portion of cheese through the honey.  Agave Honey is unbelievable and, when combined with the slightly salty taste in the cheese, was a really mouthwatering bite.  After each bite I would alternative the wine tasting, alternative the wine the bartender thought would be best with the wine I had selected.  Yes, theirs was better but my choice worked, too.

I sat back for a moment and looked about the restaurant, which was now nearly full.  It was a very nice mélange of happy people chatting away over beautiful looking dinners.  Soon my second course arrived.  This serving was a Caprese, which was presented in a way unique for me.  The slices of deep red tomato were spread with a half-moon of pesto and placed around a block of fresh Mozzarella on a large basil leaf.  The plate was drizzled with a balsamic reduction sauce to top off this tasty picture.  The pesto was excellent, the cheese was a perfect texture and taste, but the tomatoes, while colorful, had little taste.  It must not have been a good time of the season.  However, the taste and texture combination, especially when the balsamic reduction sauce was included, was outstanding.  Great tomatoes would’ve made this the best Caprese I’ve ever tasted.

After a brief respite the main selection was served.  My choice was Gnoochi Neri.  While gnoochi is my favorite Italian dish, this presentation was an especially unique rendition.  The gnoochi was infused with ink squid, combined with small shrimp, porchini mushrooms, and placed in a Lobster Bisque Sauce.  This was so delicious.  With each bite I would place my utensils on my plate and allow the smells to rinse over me and allow the tastes to rest on my taste buds.  There was a bit of a taste of the sea from the shrimp and lobster combined with a bit of a taste of the earth from the mushrooms.  It was smooth and rich and, when washed down with a swallow of fine wine, gave me pause.  Each bite was the same and, in the end, I sank in my chair feeling totally gratified.

As the servers noticed that I was spent, they cleared away the debris.  After a time during which they left me undisturbed, I asked for the dessert menu.  I needed something light but as soon as I caught sight of it I knew my choice.  Limoncella would be the coup de grace for this feast.  The sweet scent a lemon coupled with the sharp taste of vodka was a perfect way to finish this evening.  After sipping the first I asked for another and then another.  Now I was a bit tipsy.  I settled my charges, steeled myself and marched straight for the door and toward a great night’s sleep.  I will definitely return one day to this corner of the world.