I departed the hotel at what was for me quite an early hour. I traveled west along rather empty country roads. Initially I was in dire need of a gas station. After a time I found a station. As an aside, it is interesting how the need for gas when traveling can totally dominate one's thoughts. I paid little attention to the countryside but constantly looked toward the gas gauge. Anyhow, I was very pleased that I could tell the attendant to fill the gas tank and he understood. Unconcerned about the gas, I turned my attention to the sunny day and my trip into the deep forests of the foothills. There were few villages and not that many homes. After an hour of driving west I rounded a curve and the road suddenly emptied into a beautiful valley. The terrain changed from deep forest to rolling green hills dotted with villages and vineyards. There, to the front of me, perched on the side of one of those hills, was the quite beautiful village of Barolo.
Arriving in Barolo, I strolled a bit, then took a coffee. There were some tourists but not too many. Most of the tourists seemed to be northern Europeans. There were a few Americans but not too many. My time here was pleasing. I sat at a cafe overlooking the hills and vineyards, sipping my coffee and relaxing in the late morning sun. Time seemed to pass quickly. I noticed that it was time for me to take my lunch. I departed Barolo for the paese of Alessandria, just outside La Morra. There I found the Osteria. In a rustic stone building, the inside was very small but the covered terrace overlooking the countryside was perfect for an early afternoon lunch. As I sat awaiting my menu I noticed my fellow diners. There were two German men and an Italian man discussing some sort of business deal. There were four Scandinavian women, probably enjoying a holiday. They appeared to be a mother and three older daughters. Their conversation was not too lively but focused, as though they had been traveling together for a bit too long. A table of Italian men sat behind me and two sets of Italian couples completed the crowd under the canopy. Two American couples sat in the sunlight. There was much to observe but I focused on my lunch, for I intended for it to be grand.
My wine would be a 2004 Barolo from La Spinetta, now my favorite vineyard. It was nicely dry, a bit smokey and full of dark fruit. As has seemed to be the habit here in the Piemonte, the starter was a very smooth tuna salad, but this time with salmon added. My first selection was a tartare, Carne Cruda Battuta al Coletto con Porcini sott Olio. The very high quality meat was nicely presented and the lettuces were fresh and crisp. Each mouthful was delicious as the meat just seemed to melt away. A small sip of Spumante set each taste off perfectly. The Spumante came with the starter but lasted through the antipasto.
Next came the Risotto Carnaroli con Zucca e Taleggio. The broth was rich and smooth. The rice was perfectly done. The seasoning was excellent. Now wine began to follow each tasting. I basked in the glory of the risotto for a long time for it was so rich and so smooth.
The second was Scamone di Vitello Scottato con Pane alle Erbette Aromatiche. The vegetables were firm and had very nice taste but the scalloped potatoes were simply delicious. The meat was tender and well spiced. A small piece of meat combined with a small piece of potato followed by a sip of wine was a perfect tasting. Again, I languished over this serving. Lunch was lasting for quite some time.
But, with this last taste, it was finished. The Osteria was nearly empty as I sipped my coffee and munched on the tray of sweets they brought me. I sat back for a moment and thought of my long drive back to the hotel. Possibly I would take a faster route. I smiled and was off, across the strada, into the car and off down the road. One day I will come here again.
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