It was my initial drive from my hotel down into Santo Stefano Belbo and beyond. There were thirteen switchback curves on Strada Provinciale 51and I must admit to enjoying the challenge of each one of them. Reaching the bottom I turned onto Strada Statale 592, heading for Canelli. I entered the paesini on Viale Risorgimento, then turning onto the lovely tree-lined Via Alba. Here, amidst the trees in a quiet residential neighborhood, I found this quite small but lovingly appointed Ristorante.
The entry was encased in glass and contained a showcase for the culinary publication of this well-known chef, Mariuccia Roggero Ferrero. Inside the plain wooden door was a very small, perhaps four tables, dining area. The tables were nicely adorned with linens and fine china. I was greeted by a stately man whom I later discovered was the chef's husband, Piercarlo. He asked if I would like to dine inside or on the roof-top terrace. I selected the terrace and off we went through the back of the ristorante, up a steep staircase and onto the covered roof-top terrace. The terrace was more spacious and equally well adorned.
I settled at my table, receiving the evening's menu and the wine list. As I began to peruse the selections I was served a very nice Spumanti along with a small tasting dish of beautifully presented bite-sized combinations of meats, fishes and veggies. Each portion was a very interesting taste/texture combination, making an excellent start to this culinary adventure.
I selected my dinner and then my wine for this evening. The wine I chose was a 2005 La Spinetta Vigneto Starderi Barbaresco di Castagnole Lanze. For this trip I had decided that I would only drink the wines of the region I was visiting. I had never had a Barbaresco so, what better time to begin? The bottle was decanted (caraffa in Italian) and, as it opened up I finished my tastings and began to observe my fellow diners. As an aside, my selection was fortunate for the wine was perfect with the food. It was soft, delicate and, after opening up, so easy to drink. (In Italian, "del vino e cosi morbido e cosi delicato") Barbarescos may have become my new, favorite wine!
As for my fellow diners, they were all Americans. Near me was a lovely couple from San Francisco who sat quietly, enjoying their food and wine. Across the terrace were two couples from New York who were not so quiet and seemed a bit over-demanding. Observing the New Yorker's interaction with the waiter and Piercarlo, it was obvious that the Italians were very patient. In the end we all chatted and I made an internet connection with the couple from California (tut e bene!).
As food began to arrive it was time to get serious. First came the "Peperone Farcito all a Piemontese con Traditionale Vitello Tonnato". This serving of beautifully prepared and seasoned tuna stuffed into bright red peppers was delicious. The peppers were firm but sufficiently tender to make each bite quite mouthwatering. This serving did not match my wine selection so I was given another glass of sparkling wine which was fine. This was an excellent, light beginning to my dinner.
Next came the "Gnocchi di Patate di Montagna con Salsa Basilico, Fagiolini e Pinoli". The pasta was tender and the sauce was, well, the sort of sauce that, when you hold it on your tongue for a moment your eyes roll back and you just sit in amazement. There was just the right amount of basil, the broth was rich, the pine nuts were perfectly done and the small beans were so tender. I would take a small mouthful, allowing it to rest on my tongue for just a moment and follow that with a sip of wine to fully enhance each experience. For this, the wine was perfect.
Finally, the "Carre d'Agnello con Salsa al Barbera d'Asti e Tartufu Nero". Well, I'm not a big fan of what I consider to be the "overrated" truffle. However, there are times when I have been wrong. This was one of those times. This dish was a sight to behold. The lamb was perfectly done and the sauce was rich and full of truffle bits. Each taste became a combination of a cube of lamb, dipped into the truffle sauce, topped with a piece of truffle, all complimented with a small piece of roasted potato. This time each savory bite was followed by not a sip but a mouth full of wine. The combinations were simply more outstanding than for what I could have hoped.
As I finished I reclined in my chair and smiled. All of the items were cleared from the table and, to my surprise, more utensils were brought. Ah! I forgot. Dolci! Soon came a cup of espresso and another delicious serving. This was the Ristorante's famous "Langa Bunet". There were two large slices of liqueur soaked chocolate cake. The cake was very rich while being very light. The liqueur was present but not strong, simply complementing the cake's moistness. After my large dinner, I was amazed at how ravenously I consumed this serving but it was simply too delicious.
Now, I was finished. Il Conto, per favore. Piercarlo brought my check and escorted my down to the entrance where Mariuccia was waiting. We exchanged pleasantries, she gave me two of her books and I was on my way after a three and a half hour dinner. As I drove back to the San Maurizio I reflected on this experience and why I love food and wine so much!
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