Some Time Away.

I am very fond of my Italian family.  However, after living either with one other person or alone for so many years, it is not so easy to adapt to a "family" lifestyle.  Therefore, I decided to spend some weekends traveling around Italy.

After helping a fellow student, Alexis, change apartments, I departed the friendly confines of Montepulciano, motored across the Tuscan countryside and into Umbria.  I skirted the large city of Perugia then ascended into the mountains of eastern Umbria.  Moving along roads chiseled into the mountainside, I marveled at the simply beauty of both the villages and the country.  After a time I arrived at my destination, the small city of Norcia.

Norcia is a very nice place and, while drive about the center city, I remembered its beauty and was pleased that I had returned here.  Apparently I had arrived during a festival, for there were bright decoration and many officials meandering about the main piazza, the Palazzo Seneca.  I found my hotel, checked in and was escorted to a lovely lunch.

The lunch at Ristorante Granaro del Monte was al fresco and I was surrounded by a very dynamic group of Italian diners.  It was great fun to watch their animation and listen to the music of their language.  My lunch was a toast with black truffle spread followed by risotto with lentils and finished with a bit of wild boar in a delicious sauce.  Admittedly, I was hungry after my drive.

As is my habit, I returned to my room for a nap and some quiet time.  Arising refreshed, I went for an early evening stroll about the old city.  It was excellent.  The piazza and the streets leading to the piazza were filled with Italian families.  They were so much fun to watch.  The children playing.  The families smiling and greeting each other with kisses.  It seemed the perfect part of small city life.

Later, on the advise of the hotel, I attended vespers at the Church of Saint Benedict, which is the primary church of Norcia and is on the main piazza.  I ascended into the lower chambers of the church, sitting on an ancient wooden bench to listen to the Gregorian chanting of the monk's evening prayers.  The sounds that came from those dozen monks was very soothing and the small, stone chamber had perfect acoustics.  I was surprised at my enjoyment.

Departing in silence, I walked again across the piazza to the hotel and an amazing dinner at Ristorante Vespasia.  The restaurant was rather elegant with very soft colors and modern art adorning the walls.  There was live music that was a bit loud but that could not distract me from my goal of fine dining.  As has often been the case, I was brought a Spumanti and a small taster, which was a small piece of roasted pidgeon in a delicious sauce.  The menu and wine list were delivered.  I selected a 2005 La Spinetta "Starderi" Barbaresco, which I knew from my time in Piemonte was excellent.

First came "Uovo di Fattoria al Tartufo Nero di Norcia."  The fresh farm eggs were soft boiled and covered with black truffle sprinkles.  This serving was so wonderful!  The taste and texture combination was perfect.  The soft egg combined with the firm, rich truffle followed by a sip of wine made, at least for me, a exceptional dining experience.

Next came the "Agnello dei Roveja di Sibillini alle erbe dell'orto cotto allo spiedo souffle alle lenticchie di Castelluccio di Norcia, LGP".  The tender lamb was encrusted in crisp skin, making each taste an excellent combination of textures, too.  The lentil souffle was rich and simply outstanding.  It was beautifully presented and finished off an excellent dinner.  After an espresso I was off to bed for a long sleep to prepare myself for the drive back to Montepulciano.

As an aside, I awoke during the night, thanks to the coffee, and wandered over to the balcony of my room.  It was great luck for outside the full moon glowed above the mountains.  It was the finish to a beautiful night.  So, back to bed and to sleep, perchance to dream.