To fully appreciate the total ambiance of dining at this wonderful restaurant, one must travel via the "Strada Bianca" from Montepulciano to Montecchiello. When one takes this most direct route and when one arrives at this most beautiful small village, the mind is appropriately set to enjoy the atmosphere of this special place. I cannot tell you exactly why this is true but I have come to believe it. Also, it is important to arrive early for dinner so that there is sufficient time to stroll about the village. Perhaps the purpose of the stroll is to settle one's mind and to relax one's body so that a sort of total enjoyment may be realized.
Entry into this rather small restaurant is directly into the dining room. One is immediately confronted with a sort of controlled enthusiasm. People chat softly but may laugh heartily as a refection of their enjoyment. The aromas of Chef Moreno Motterle creations surround each diner. Each time I have eaten here (this is my third time) I have immediately had the sense that this is a wonderful place to be. The hostess and owner greets each person. She is warm and engaging. Her touch as she guides one to their table is reassuring as one passes among the tables.
Seated on the upper balcony, overlooking the lower dining area, I watched my fellow diners and their enjoyable contact with the staff. With each table the staff seemed to be old friends. Soon my menu arrived and the special servings for that evening were explained to me. For me, for this final dinner here before my departure, I selected items that I had enjoyed previously. I wanted to confirm my enjoyment and to check the consistency of the Chef.
The wine I selected was a 2006 Brunello Poggio di Sotto. This wine was soft but rich with dark fruits and great on the tongue. I was brought a tasty serving of ricotta cheese with a nut butter and local bread. It was a nice beginning. My first selection was a Tortino di Funghi con creme di Porcini e Tartufo fresco. The Tortino was firm on the outside with smooth and rich on the inside. The Tartufo sauce was unbelievable. This was one of those "hold each bit in your mouth and let it dissolve" dishes. Each taste was followed by a sip of wine. This first serving last for a time. My memory was correct and I was very happy that it was prepared the same delicious way I had remembered.
Next came the Gnocchi di Patate e Cannellini al Cacio e Pepe. This, too, was delicate and rich. The spices were very nice and the cheese was smooth. Each piece of gnocchi was allowed to simply melt and was followed by another sip of wine. The texture was similar to the first serving but the spices made this portion a totally different experience. Again, I allowed this dish to last for quite some time. Eating two such rich servings is a challenge and one must linger as not to be overwhelmed.
Lastly, the Filletto di Maiale ai Funghi con crema di Pecorino. The pork was tender and ever so slightly juicy. The cream sauce was an excellent compliment to the slight licorice taste in the meat. The owner had warned me about having three such rich dishes but my objective for this meal was set. However, at the end she was correct. The richness of this feast could not be sufficiently offset by the dry wine. I was stuffed. I reclined in my seat and lingered over a coffee. I refused a dessert and a grappa. I was so content with this meal. What I would've really liked to do was to simply roll into bed but I had my trip back down the "Strada Bianco". At the end I knew that, each time in Montepulciano would certainly include a trip to La Porta.
Thursday, October 18, 2012
Tuesday, October 16, 2012
A Wonderful Weekend in Firenze
I departed the school as quickly as possible and strode down the hill. I stopped at Bar del Corso for a piece of pizza to avoid passing out from hunger. The service was surprisingly fast and the pizza was warm and thick with cheese. However, I did not dally but soon arrived at the house where I finished packing my bags, loaded the car and motored into the countryside. The morning had been rainy but the rains had passed. The air was clear and crisp. The puffy white clouds rose above the rolling green hills. The sun shone brightly to highlight the brilliant colors. The view was breath-taking. I would occasionally slow to look but I was intent on getting to Firenze. Soon I left the country roads and was on the Autostrada. Now I was really on my way. There was no more attention to the countryside but the focus was on zipping along at 100mph and on avoiding slower traffic.
I arrived in the old central city and wandered about the one-way streets for a bit before the hotel's doorman stepped into the street to ask if I was searching for his hotel. As a matter of fact, it was his hotel for which I searched. I had driven past it three times. Their signage was not too good and, in this case, GPS had its limitations. No matter. I gave him my car and was escorted to a lovely room overlooking a small courtyard. Before long my luggage arrive and I began to settle. I soon met my companion for the weekend, Dina. We strolled about the nearby streets, enjoying the views and the people. We discovered a quaint little shop and purchased snacks for later. After a time, I returned to the hotel for a shower.
Just before dinner Dina joined me for a bit of wine and our snacks. As the time for dinner arrived we sauntered down to the hotel restaurant. The entry to the restaurant was a very nice bar. We were greeting in the bar and asked if we would like a drink before dinner. We agreed. We were escorted into a most grand "Salon di Musica". We situated ourselves in large leather lounging chairs. Our aperitifs arrived and we chatted softly under the lovely music floating about this stately room. The ambiance of this elegant place gave pause to our chatter and we simply basked in the grandeur of the moment. In my melancholy, I looked at Dina as she closed her eyes to the music. Her flowing locks and her linen gown draped over long legs caused me to wonder what this moment might have been like twenty years ago, for Dina was many years my junior. I quickly pushed such thoughts from my mind and allowed myself to simply appreciate this moment.
After a time we were escorted to a fine dinner complimented by a delicious wine. The dining room was elegant and the service was warm and attentive. After we had completed our several courses we were, again, escorted to the music room for a cognac. We lounged and, at least I fell in love with the moment. The room was so lovely. The music was so soft. Dina was so delicious. For me, it was a perfect combination and I basked in its intensity. I'm not so certain how often such moments come in a lifetime. I shall not soon forget these moments. From that moment on, each time Dina and I met, we met in the Salon di Musica.
The next morning I arose late, no doubt effected by the sizable amount of wine and cognac consumed. We had a large American breakfast and began a long, relaxed walk about the city. We visited piazzas crowded with tourists and walked slowly down nearly empty side streets couched in lovely ancient buildings. I recalled a past visit to this city. I did not like this place. This time was different. I loved each part of this place. Dina shopped a bit and the shopkeepers were friendly. There were many tour groups but we avoided them. It was just a rejuvenating experience for me. I could live in this place.
In the afternoon we stopped for a sandwich at the "Alle'Antico Vinano" just off of the Palazzo Vecchio. The cibo, a focaccia panino, was warm, large and delicious. There was a long queue but we were served quickly and ate sitting along the street. Munching and watch the tourists was great fun. Later we made a rather quick trip through the Uffizi Gallery and retreated to relax before another dinner. I took a long bath and a short, much needed nap.
The dinner for the second evening was quite an event. The restaurant was Enoteca Pinchiorri. The dinner was 13 courses accompanied by six wines. I would detail the dinner but it was simply too complex. Needless to say, it was quite a "degustatzione." The restaurant was very nice, our fellow diners were interesting and the service was perfect. An interesting thing was that our primary server was a young Japanese man (who was surprised when I greeted him in Japanese) and, quite honestly, it was often difficult for me to understand his explanation of each serving in Italian. But, despite the unclear explanation, the servings were lovely and delicious so, we didn't hesitate nor question but simply enjoyed. The day had been full of exercise and the dinner was very long. The full but not hectic day was finished with another very long sleep.
I arose late, again, and we met for a cappuccino and a pasta. Again we strolled about the city. We chatted. We munched a bit. We drank a bit. It was a beautifully sunny day and Dina was enticing as she seemed to flow above the street. It was such a pleasure to spend a weekend in the company of such a lovely young woman. However, my time here was drawing to a close. I picked up my car and bags from the hotel, dropped Dina a her B&B and departed this beautiful old city knowing that this will not be my last time in Firenze.
As a cap to this wonder, as I drove down the Autostrada, over the nearby hills I saw an extremely colorful double rainbow. The top rainbow had seven distinct colors and the bottom rainbow, while more faint, had four colors. It was a beautiful sight and the perfect finish to a beautiful weekend. As I drove past the rainbows I reflected for, Dina will be off on her own adventures and I'll be off on mine. It will be interesting to see if our paths cross again.
I arrived in the old central city and wandered about the one-way streets for a bit before the hotel's doorman stepped into the street to ask if I was searching for his hotel. As a matter of fact, it was his hotel for which I searched. I had driven past it three times. Their signage was not too good and, in this case, GPS had its limitations. No matter. I gave him my car and was escorted to a lovely room overlooking a small courtyard. Before long my luggage arrive and I began to settle. I soon met my companion for the weekend, Dina. We strolled about the nearby streets, enjoying the views and the people. We discovered a quaint little shop and purchased snacks for later. After a time, I returned to the hotel for a shower.
Just before dinner Dina joined me for a bit of wine and our snacks. As the time for dinner arrived we sauntered down to the hotel restaurant. The entry to the restaurant was a very nice bar. We were greeting in the bar and asked if we would like a drink before dinner. We agreed. We were escorted into a most grand "Salon di Musica". We situated ourselves in large leather lounging chairs. Our aperitifs arrived and we chatted softly under the lovely music floating about this stately room. The ambiance of this elegant place gave pause to our chatter and we simply basked in the grandeur of the moment. In my melancholy, I looked at Dina as she closed her eyes to the music. Her flowing locks and her linen gown draped over long legs caused me to wonder what this moment might have been like twenty years ago, for Dina was many years my junior. I quickly pushed such thoughts from my mind and allowed myself to simply appreciate this moment.
After a time we were escorted to a fine dinner complimented by a delicious wine. The dining room was elegant and the service was warm and attentive. After we had completed our several courses we were, again, escorted to the music room for a cognac. We lounged and, at least I fell in love with the moment. The room was so lovely. The music was so soft. Dina was so delicious. For me, it was a perfect combination and I basked in its intensity. I'm not so certain how often such moments come in a lifetime. I shall not soon forget these moments. From that moment on, each time Dina and I met, we met in the Salon di Musica.
The next morning I arose late, no doubt effected by the sizable amount of wine and cognac consumed. We had a large American breakfast and began a long, relaxed walk about the city. We visited piazzas crowded with tourists and walked slowly down nearly empty side streets couched in lovely ancient buildings. I recalled a past visit to this city. I did not like this place. This time was different. I loved each part of this place. Dina shopped a bit and the shopkeepers were friendly. There were many tour groups but we avoided them. It was just a rejuvenating experience for me. I could live in this place.
In the afternoon we stopped for a sandwich at the "Alle'Antico Vinano" just off of the Palazzo Vecchio. The cibo, a focaccia panino, was warm, large and delicious. There was a long queue but we were served quickly and ate sitting along the street. Munching and watch the tourists was great fun. Later we made a rather quick trip through the Uffizi Gallery and retreated to relax before another dinner. I took a long bath and a short, much needed nap.
The dinner for the second evening was quite an event. The restaurant was Enoteca Pinchiorri. The dinner was 13 courses accompanied by six wines. I would detail the dinner but it was simply too complex. Needless to say, it was quite a "degustatzione." The restaurant was very nice, our fellow diners were interesting and the service was perfect. An interesting thing was that our primary server was a young Japanese man (who was surprised when I greeted him in Japanese) and, quite honestly, it was often difficult for me to understand his explanation of each serving in Italian. But, despite the unclear explanation, the servings were lovely and delicious so, we didn't hesitate nor question but simply enjoyed. The day had been full of exercise and the dinner was very long. The full but not hectic day was finished with another very long sleep.
I arose late, again, and we met for a cappuccino and a pasta. Again we strolled about the city. We chatted. We munched a bit. We drank a bit. It was a beautifully sunny day and Dina was enticing as she seemed to flow above the street. It was such a pleasure to spend a weekend in the company of such a lovely young woman. However, my time here was drawing to a close. I picked up my car and bags from the hotel, dropped Dina a her B&B and departed this beautiful old city knowing that this will not be my last time in Firenze.
As a cap to this wonder, as I drove down the Autostrada, over the nearby hills I saw an extremely colorful double rainbow. The top rainbow had seven distinct colors and the bottom rainbow, while more faint, had four colors. It was a beautiful sight and the perfect finish to a beautiful weekend. As I drove past the rainbows I reflected for, Dina will be off on her own adventures and I'll be off on mine. It will be interesting to see if our paths cross again.
A Day In The Life Of...
As I began my day in Montepulciano I thought it might be good to record how each day during these five weeks has unfolded. I'm an old man and I'm certain I will not remember it correctly over the coming years so, for the historical...or hysterical...record, this is how each day began.
The alarm on my telephone would sound at 7 am. The alarm sound would be soft at first but would build in volume until I would be required to jump from my warm bed to silence the noise for fear of awakening the entire household. Each time, immediately after silencing the alarm, I would ponder returning to my warm bed. However, each time I would turn to fetch the items for my morning shower and, thus, I would begin my day.
After preening myself for the day, I would pack my school items in their bag and descend the stairs to the kitchen. Often, Adriano would be sitting with his breakfast and would greet me. I would make my coffee and select one or two biscotti, or perhaps a piece of last night's torta, as my sweets to begin the day. There would be little chit chat but there was always a sense of bonding. It was a sort of mano-a-mano thing. Often I didn't understand his Italian and he certainly didn't understand my English but we understood each other. It was always a reassuring beginning to the day.
Departing the house, I began the walk up the steep hill to the school. The walk would take around 20 minutes but the hill was very steep. I would pass a bar outside of which the same men always sat and talked. Occasionally they would acknowledge me but not often. At the first plateau I would encounter hundreds of young students marching to their school just down the hill. They were brought by bus from the countryside to a main bus station and from that station they would walk a few blocks to their school. Their chatter and laughing and smiling was always refreshing. Soon I would arrive at a rotary and, crossing the rotary I would find a seat on the ancient stone wall which formed the approach to the gate that formed the entry in the the old city. I would always find a seat where the morning sun shown on the wall. Sitting in the sun, a bit winded from the uphill climb, I would catch my breath and watch the students who lived in the city wander down the hill to school. They were always in twos and threes. Their conversation was always quite lively. I enjoyed that time on the wall.
After a few minutes I would rise to complete the remainder of my journey up the hill to my school. Although there were always a few administrative people at the school, I was generally the first student. We would exchange greeting and I would retreat to my classroom where I would check e-mail, spread my school materials out for the day and relax my mind for the coming deluge of foreign materials. This is the story of how I began each of my school days. I will leave the after-school portion for later.
The alarm on my telephone would sound at 7 am. The alarm sound would be soft at first but would build in volume until I would be required to jump from my warm bed to silence the noise for fear of awakening the entire household. Each time, immediately after silencing the alarm, I would ponder returning to my warm bed. However, each time I would turn to fetch the items for my morning shower and, thus, I would begin my day.
After preening myself for the day, I would pack my school items in their bag and descend the stairs to the kitchen. Often, Adriano would be sitting with his breakfast and would greet me. I would make my coffee and select one or two biscotti, or perhaps a piece of last night's torta, as my sweets to begin the day. There would be little chit chat but there was always a sense of bonding. It was a sort of mano-a-mano thing. Often I didn't understand his Italian and he certainly didn't understand my English but we understood each other. It was always a reassuring beginning to the day.
Departing the house, I began the walk up the steep hill to the school. The walk would take around 20 minutes but the hill was very steep. I would pass a bar outside of which the same men always sat and talked. Occasionally they would acknowledge me but not often. At the first plateau I would encounter hundreds of young students marching to their school just down the hill. They were brought by bus from the countryside to a main bus station and from that station they would walk a few blocks to their school. Their chatter and laughing and smiling was always refreshing. Soon I would arrive at a rotary and, crossing the rotary I would find a seat on the ancient stone wall which formed the approach to the gate that formed the entry in the the old city. I would always find a seat where the morning sun shown on the wall. Sitting in the sun, a bit winded from the uphill climb, I would catch my breath and watch the students who lived in the city wander down the hill to school. They were always in twos and threes. Their conversation was always quite lively. I enjoyed that time on the wall.
After a few minutes I would rise to complete the remainder of my journey up the hill to my school. Although there were always a few administrative people at the school, I was generally the first student. We would exchange greeting and I would retreat to my classroom where I would check e-mail, spread my school materials out for the day and relax my mind for the coming deluge of foreign materials. This is the story of how I began each of my school days. I will leave the after-school portion for later.
Saturday, October 6, 2012
Osteria del Vignaiolo
I departed the hotel at what was for me quite an early hour. I traveled west along rather empty country roads. Initially I was in dire need of a gas station. After a time I found a station. As an aside, it is interesting how the need for gas when traveling can totally dominate one's thoughts. I paid little attention to the countryside but constantly looked toward the gas gauge. Anyhow, I was very pleased that I could tell the attendant to fill the gas tank and he understood. Unconcerned about the gas, I turned my attention to the sunny day and my trip into the deep forests of the foothills. There were few villages and not that many homes. After an hour of driving west I rounded a curve and the road suddenly emptied into a beautiful valley. The terrain changed from deep forest to rolling green hills dotted with villages and vineyards. There, to the front of me, perched on the side of one of those hills, was the quite beautiful village of Barolo.
Arriving in Barolo, I strolled a bit, then took a coffee. There were some tourists but not too many. Most of the tourists seemed to be northern Europeans. There were a few Americans but not too many. My time here was pleasing. I sat at a cafe overlooking the hills and vineyards, sipping my coffee and relaxing in the late morning sun. Time seemed to pass quickly. I noticed that it was time for me to take my lunch. I departed Barolo for the paese of Alessandria, just outside La Morra. There I found the Osteria. In a rustic stone building, the inside was very small but the covered terrace overlooking the countryside was perfect for an early afternoon lunch. As I sat awaiting my menu I noticed my fellow diners. There were two German men and an Italian man discussing some sort of business deal. There were four Scandinavian women, probably enjoying a holiday. They appeared to be a mother and three older daughters. Their conversation was not too lively but focused, as though they had been traveling together for a bit too long. A table of Italian men sat behind me and two sets of Italian couples completed the crowd under the canopy. Two American couples sat in the sunlight. There was much to observe but I focused on my lunch, for I intended for it to be grand.
My wine would be a 2004 Barolo from La Spinetta, now my favorite vineyard. It was nicely dry, a bit smokey and full of dark fruit. As has seemed to be the habit here in the Piemonte, the starter was a very smooth tuna salad, but this time with salmon added. My first selection was a tartare, Carne Cruda Battuta al Coletto con Porcini sott Olio. The very high quality meat was nicely presented and the lettuces were fresh and crisp. Each mouthful was delicious as the meat just seemed to melt away. A small sip of Spumante set each taste off perfectly. The Spumante came with the starter but lasted through the antipasto.
Next came the Risotto Carnaroli con Zucca e Taleggio. The broth was rich and smooth. The rice was perfectly done. The seasoning was excellent. Now wine began to follow each tasting. I basked in the glory of the risotto for a long time for it was so rich and so smooth.
The second was Scamone di Vitello Scottato con Pane alle Erbette Aromatiche. The vegetables were firm and had very nice taste but the scalloped potatoes were simply delicious. The meat was tender and well spiced. A small piece of meat combined with a small piece of potato followed by a sip of wine was a perfect tasting. Again, I languished over this serving. Lunch was lasting for quite some time.
But, with this last taste, it was finished. The Osteria was nearly empty as I sipped my coffee and munched on the tray of sweets they brought me. I sat back for a moment and thought of my long drive back to the hotel. Possibly I would take a faster route. I smiled and was off, across the strada, into the car and off down the road. One day I will come here again.
Arriving in Barolo, I strolled a bit, then took a coffee. There were some tourists but not too many. Most of the tourists seemed to be northern Europeans. There were a few Americans but not too many. My time here was pleasing. I sat at a cafe overlooking the hills and vineyards, sipping my coffee and relaxing in the late morning sun. Time seemed to pass quickly. I noticed that it was time for me to take my lunch. I departed Barolo for the paese of Alessandria, just outside La Morra. There I found the Osteria. In a rustic stone building, the inside was very small but the covered terrace overlooking the countryside was perfect for an early afternoon lunch. As I sat awaiting my menu I noticed my fellow diners. There were two German men and an Italian man discussing some sort of business deal. There were four Scandinavian women, probably enjoying a holiday. They appeared to be a mother and three older daughters. Their conversation was not too lively but focused, as though they had been traveling together for a bit too long. A table of Italian men sat behind me and two sets of Italian couples completed the crowd under the canopy. Two American couples sat in the sunlight. There was much to observe but I focused on my lunch, for I intended for it to be grand.
My wine would be a 2004 Barolo from La Spinetta, now my favorite vineyard. It was nicely dry, a bit smokey and full of dark fruit. As has seemed to be the habit here in the Piemonte, the starter was a very smooth tuna salad, but this time with salmon added. My first selection was a tartare, Carne Cruda Battuta al Coletto con Porcini sott Olio. The very high quality meat was nicely presented and the lettuces were fresh and crisp. Each mouthful was delicious as the meat just seemed to melt away. A small sip of Spumante set each taste off perfectly. The Spumante came with the starter but lasted through the antipasto.
Next came the Risotto Carnaroli con Zucca e Taleggio. The broth was rich and smooth. The rice was perfectly done. The seasoning was excellent. Now wine began to follow each tasting. I basked in the glory of the risotto for a long time for it was so rich and so smooth.
The second was Scamone di Vitello Scottato con Pane alle Erbette Aromatiche. The vegetables were firm and had very nice taste but the scalloped potatoes were simply delicious. The meat was tender and well spiced. A small piece of meat combined with a small piece of potato followed by a sip of wine was a perfect tasting. Again, I languished over this serving. Lunch was lasting for quite some time.
But, with this last taste, it was finished. The Osteria was nearly empty as I sipped my coffee and munched on the tray of sweets they brought me. I sat back for a moment and thought of my long drive back to the hotel. Possibly I would take a faster route. I smiled and was off, across the strada, into the car and off down the road. One day I will come here again.
Ristorante Violetta
The early evening drive through the country was relaxing and beautiful. The rolling hills topped by the setting sun were magical. I passed through a small village and turned down a country lane. I looked closely but could not see a sign for the restaurant. I drove a bit further and then turned back. It must be nearby. Suddenly I saw a small parking area. I turned in and parked. The place that looked like a simple farm house. There was no one about. I waited in the car until another vehicle entered. A couple got out of their car and entered the building. I soon followed them in and was greeted by a lovely older woman. She spoke no English but we figured out who I was and she escorted me to a table. At this point it was only me and the aforementioned couple for dinner. That would soon change as two other couples and a large group of Germans arrived for dinner.
For this evening my fellow diners were very interesting. I chatted briefly with an English couple, the original couple, and discovered that they owned a home near the restaurant, spending half of their time in Italy. Across the room was a middle aged Italian couple involved in an intense conversation about something that seemed very important to them. Next to them was a young Italian couple who seemed deeply in love. The warmth of their smiles and the tenderness of their touches was so nice to see. However, next to me was the most amazing couple. They must have been in their 80's. Listening to them order dinner was a joy. Hearing their chat, even though I didn't have a clue what they were saying, was very entertaining. Finally, after we had all finished our meals, we made an attempt to communicate. For some reason they had become interested in me. It was just fun. The only interesting things about the large group of Germans were their body paintings and the fact that several times during dinner a few of them would go outside to smoke.
My dinner was quite an experience, too. This was a small, family owned and run restaurant. The atmosphere was very homey. The owners, the older woman who greeted me and her husband, provided excellent service. The chef, a rather large, older woman, must have been a relative judging from their interaction. While finding this place was a small challenge, the greater challenge was that the menu was verbal. The lovely older woman came to me and began to tell me the items available for dinner. I listened closely and when I heard something I recognized I order that item. It all worked out and was delightful. During the menu presentation I noticed that the older couple next to me had taken an interest in my predicament. Several times they smiled at me as a strained to figure out what I was having for dinner.
The wine I selected was easy. It was a 2003 La Spinetta Vigneto Barbaresco "Starderi". Dinner began with an antipasto that was essentially an open faced ham sandwich. The prosciutto was fresh and excellent. The turkey was freshly roasted and nicely spiced. The veggies were al dente. The mustard was very nice. Each bit was composed of a bit of each item and was a great start to my dinner. The part I recognized in the menu delivery was the word for ham. I didn't touch the wine with the antipasto but allowed it to sit and breath.
The first course was a stuffed Agnolotti that was mouthwatering. Here I recognized the word for garlic. Now I began to sip the wine. The pasta was stuffed with sage, garlic, meat and covered with a delicious, seasoned olive oil. The pasta was petite and the stuffing was very nicely spiced. A single piece of pasta left to dissolve in my mouth to be followed by a sip of wine was full of wonderful sensations. This course lasted for quite some time.
As for what was to come next, I was not certain. I didn't understand the ingredients. As she was repeating the selections for the second time I simply motioned for the second choice. As it turned out, it was my great fortune to have tripe. I love being lucky. I love tripe. It was prepared Piemontese style in the most delicious broth and accompanied by nicely spiced sausages. The dish was really quite ugly but excellent for my final course. A piece of tripe accompanied by a bit of sausage washed down with a sip of wine was perfect. It may have been better than the tripe I had in Paris.
After nearly three hours of eating and watching and listening I departed this lovely experience. The couple came to shake my hand as I left. We all smiled and were very happy. The drive home was languid. My bed was very welcome.
For this evening my fellow diners were very interesting. I chatted briefly with an English couple, the original couple, and discovered that they owned a home near the restaurant, spending half of their time in Italy. Across the room was a middle aged Italian couple involved in an intense conversation about something that seemed very important to them. Next to them was a young Italian couple who seemed deeply in love. The warmth of their smiles and the tenderness of their touches was so nice to see. However, next to me was the most amazing couple. They must have been in their 80's. Listening to them order dinner was a joy. Hearing their chat, even though I didn't have a clue what they were saying, was very entertaining. Finally, after we had all finished our meals, we made an attempt to communicate. For some reason they had become interested in me. It was just fun. The only interesting things about the large group of Germans were their body paintings and the fact that several times during dinner a few of them would go outside to smoke.
My dinner was quite an experience, too. This was a small, family owned and run restaurant. The atmosphere was very homey. The owners, the older woman who greeted me and her husband, provided excellent service. The chef, a rather large, older woman, must have been a relative judging from their interaction. While finding this place was a small challenge, the greater challenge was that the menu was verbal. The lovely older woman came to me and began to tell me the items available for dinner. I listened closely and when I heard something I recognized I order that item. It all worked out and was delightful. During the menu presentation I noticed that the older couple next to me had taken an interest in my predicament. Several times they smiled at me as a strained to figure out what I was having for dinner.
The wine I selected was easy. It was a 2003 La Spinetta Vigneto Barbaresco "Starderi". Dinner began with an antipasto that was essentially an open faced ham sandwich. The prosciutto was fresh and excellent. The turkey was freshly roasted and nicely spiced. The veggies were al dente. The mustard was very nice. Each bit was composed of a bit of each item and was a great start to my dinner. The part I recognized in the menu delivery was the word for ham. I didn't touch the wine with the antipasto but allowed it to sit and breath.
The first course was a stuffed Agnolotti that was mouthwatering. Here I recognized the word for garlic. Now I began to sip the wine. The pasta was stuffed with sage, garlic, meat and covered with a delicious, seasoned olive oil. The pasta was petite and the stuffing was very nicely spiced. A single piece of pasta left to dissolve in my mouth to be followed by a sip of wine was full of wonderful sensations. This course lasted for quite some time.
As for what was to come next, I was not certain. I didn't understand the ingredients. As she was repeating the selections for the second time I simply motioned for the second choice. As it turned out, it was my great fortune to have tripe. I love being lucky. I love tripe. It was prepared Piemontese style in the most delicious broth and accompanied by nicely spiced sausages. The dish was really quite ugly but excellent for my final course. A piece of tripe accompanied by a bit of sausage washed down with a sip of wine was perfect. It may have been better than the tripe I had in Paris.
After nearly three hours of eating and watching and listening I departed this lovely experience. The couple came to shake my hand as I left. We all smiled and were very happy. The drive home was languid. My bed was very welcome.
Settling In
My third week of studying Italian has been complete and the time has been very rewarding. During the second week one student departed and was replaced by another. The class size of eight remained the same but became quite different in tone. The change in dynamic was very interesting. The departing student was a quiet, unassuming man from Utah. The new student was an outspoken man from Louisiana. Reflecting upon the difference it gives me a smile and I shake my head.
During the second week I attended a cooking class at the Cantina Gattavecchi. There were nine of us, lead by the chef, Lillian, in a rather small kitchen. Lillian, a Brazilian, was quite an actress. She was outspoken, emotional and very animated. All of us were directed to perform different jobs as we made fresh pasta (there was flour everywhere) with an amazing mushroom, tomato, garlic, red wine and heavy cream sauce. Our second was a pork roast stuffed with seasoned sausage. Our contorni was roasted potatoes. The dinner was surprisingly tasty given the number of hands involved in the making. It was simply an outstanding experience. Picture nine people plus the chef plus the dishwasher pushing and shoving their way around a space that would be comfortable for two or three. All were drinking wine and laughing while they spread the flour or rolled and sliced the pasta or pounded the pork or massaged the spices into the sausage or sliced and oiled the potatoes. For me, however, there was a sadness here for, as I stood for a moment in a back corner of the kitchen, separating myself from the crowd, my thoughts turned to the one person who would have loved this so very much. I must admit that a tear came to my eye but I quickly brushed it away, hoping that no one noticed. I stood back for a moment longer and then jumped back into the madness.
Also, during the second week there were many lunches with fellow student and many dinners with the family. It was a whirlwind of activity. It became quite exhausting so, as reported in another piece, after a Friday gathering to say goodbye to departing students, I retreated to Norcia for some quiet time away, "far from the maddening crowd."
The third week began with a largely new class. The level of the new students was higher than the students who remained from the prior two weeks. The man from Louisiana, an Australian man, a young woman from New York and I remained. We were all about the same level. We were joined by another woman from New York, a Canadian man, an Australian woman and a woman from Norway. All of the new classmates spoke and understood Italian better than those who remained. The level of instruction accelerated. My weariness returned quickly. Also, the student lunch and dinner gatherings increased. More of my time was spent eating and drinking and less time was spent studying. So, as the level of study increased my effort decreased, adding substantially to my weariness. Another weekend away would be necessary.
During the third week there was a nice trip to Pienza and a trip to Cortona, which included a tour of an ancient monastery. However, the energy of my fellow students, at least the ones who had been in school for three weeks, began to dwindle. At the end of the third week the vast majority of the fellow students departed for various and sundry places. For me, weariness of both the intensity of the learning and the intensity of the interaction with others caused me to make a quick escape from the school on Friday. I was off for a weekend at a spa just outside of Siena. Along the way I stopped for a very nice lunch at the only trattoria in Rapolano Terme...spaghetti with ragu sauce and a mezzo of wine.
Until next time ciao a tutti.
During the second week I attended a cooking class at the Cantina Gattavecchi. There were nine of us, lead by the chef, Lillian, in a rather small kitchen. Lillian, a Brazilian, was quite an actress. She was outspoken, emotional and very animated. All of us were directed to perform different jobs as we made fresh pasta (there was flour everywhere) with an amazing mushroom, tomato, garlic, red wine and heavy cream sauce. Our second was a pork roast stuffed with seasoned sausage. Our contorni was roasted potatoes. The dinner was surprisingly tasty given the number of hands involved in the making. It was simply an outstanding experience. Picture nine people plus the chef plus the dishwasher pushing and shoving their way around a space that would be comfortable for two or three. All were drinking wine and laughing while they spread the flour or rolled and sliced the pasta or pounded the pork or massaged the spices into the sausage or sliced and oiled the potatoes. For me, however, there was a sadness here for, as I stood for a moment in a back corner of the kitchen, separating myself from the crowd, my thoughts turned to the one person who would have loved this so very much. I must admit that a tear came to my eye but I quickly brushed it away, hoping that no one noticed. I stood back for a moment longer and then jumped back into the madness.
Also, during the second week there were many lunches with fellow student and many dinners with the family. It was a whirlwind of activity. It became quite exhausting so, as reported in another piece, after a Friday gathering to say goodbye to departing students, I retreated to Norcia for some quiet time away, "far from the maddening crowd."
The third week began with a largely new class. The level of the new students was higher than the students who remained from the prior two weeks. The man from Louisiana, an Australian man, a young woman from New York and I remained. We were all about the same level. We were joined by another woman from New York, a Canadian man, an Australian woman and a woman from Norway. All of the new classmates spoke and understood Italian better than those who remained. The level of instruction accelerated. My weariness returned quickly. Also, the student lunch and dinner gatherings increased. More of my time was spent eating and drinking and less time was spent studying. So, as the level of study increased my effort decreased, adding substantially to my weariness. Another weekend away would be necessary.
During the third week there was a nice trip to Pienza and a trip to Cortona, which included a tour of an ancient monastery. However, the energy of my fellow students, at least the ones who had been in school for three weeks, began to dwindle. At the end of the third week the vast majority of the fellow students departed for various and sundry places. For me, weariness of both the intensity of the learning and the intensity of the interaction with others caused me to make a quick escape from the school on Friday. I was off for a weekend at a spa just outside of Siena. Along the way I stopped for a very nice lunch at the only trattoria in Rapolano Terme...spaghetti with ragu sauce and a mezzo of wine.
Until next time ciao a tutti.
Sunday, September 30, 2012
Some Time Away.
I am very fond of my Italian family. However, after living either with one other person or alone for so many years, it is not so easy to adapt to a "family" lifestyle. Therefore, I decided to spend some weekends traveling around Italy.
After helping a fellow student, Alexis, change apartments, I departed the friendly confines of Montepulciano, motored across the Tuscan countryside and into Umbria. I skirted the large city of Perugia then ascended into the mountains of eastern Umbria. Moving along roads chiseled into the mountainside, I marveled at the simply beauty of both the villages and the country. After a time I arrived at my destination, the small city of Norcia.
Norcia is a very nice place and, while drive about the center city, I remembered its beauty and was pleased that I had returned here. Apparently I had arrived during a festival, for there were bright decoration and many officials meandering about the main piazza, the Palazzo Seneca. I found my hotel, checked in and was escorted to a lovely lunch.
The lunch at Ristorante Granaro del Monte was al fresco and I was surrounded by a very dynamic group of Italian diners. It was great fun to watch their animation and listen to the music of their language. My lunch was a toast with black truffle spread followed by risotto with lentils and finished with a bit of wild boar in a delicious sauce. Admittedly, I was hungry after my drive.
As is my habit, I returned to my room for a nap and some quiet time. Arising refreshed, I went for an early evening stroll about the old city. It was excellent. The piazza and the streets leading to the piazza were filled with Italian families. They were so much fun to watch. The children playing. The families smiling and greeting each other with kisses. It seemed the perfect part of small city life.
Later, on the advise of the hotel, I attended vespers at the Church of Saint Benedict, which is the primary church of Norcia and is on the main piazza. I ascended into the lower chambers of the church, sitting on an ancient wooden bench to listen to the Gregorian chanting of the monk's evening prayers. The sounds that came from those dozen monks was very soothing and the small, stone chamber had perfect acoustics. I was surprised at my enjoyment.
Departing in silence, I walked again across the piazza to the hotel and an amazing dinner at Ristorante Vespasia. The restaurant was rather elegant with very soft colors and modern art adorning the walls. There was live music that was a bit loud but that could not distract me from my goal of fine dining. As has often been the case, I was brought a Spumanti and a small taster, which was a small piece of roasted pidgeon in a delicious sauce. The menu and wine list were delivered. I selected a 2005 La Spinetta "Starderi" Barbaresco, which I knew from my time in Piemonte was excellent.
First came "Uovo di Fattoria al Tartufo Nero di Norcia." The fresh farm eggs were soft boiled and covered with black truffle sprinkles. This serving was so wonderful! The taste and texture combination was perfect. The soft egg combined with the firm, rich truffle followed by a sip of wine made, at least for me, a exceptional dining experience.
Next came the "Agnello dei Roveja di Sibillini alle erbe dell'orto cotto allo spiedo souffle alle lenticchie di Castelluccio di Norcia, LGP". The tender lamb was encrusted in crisp skin, making each taste an excellent combination of textures, too. The lentil souffle was rich and simply outstanding. It was beautifully presented and finished off an excellent dinner. After an espresso I was off to bed for a long sleep to prepare myself for the drive back to Montepulciano.
As an aside, I awoke during the night, thanks to the coffee, and wandered over to the balcony of my room. It was great luck for outside the full moon glowed above the mountains. It was the finish to a beautiful night. So, back to bed and to sleep, perchance to dream.
After helping a fellow student, Alexis, change apartments, I departed the friendly confines of Montepulciano, motored across the Tuscan countryside and into Umbria. I skirted the large city of Perugia then ascended into the mountains of eastern Umbria. Moving along roads chiseled into the mountainside, I marveled at the simply beauty of both the villages and the country. After a time I arrived at my destination, the small city of Norcia.
Norcia is a very nice place and, while drive about the center city, I remembered its beauty and was pleased that I had returned here. Apparently I had arrived during a festival, for there were bright decoration and many officials meandering about the main piazza, the Palazzo Seneca. I found my hotel, checked in and was escorted to a lovely lunch.
The lunch at Ristorante Granaro del Monte was al fresco and I was surrounded by a very dynamic group of Italian diners. It was great fun to watch their animation and listen to the music of their language. My lunch was a toast with black truffle spread followed by risotto with lentils and finished with a bit of wild boar in a delicious sauce. Admittedly, I was hungry after my drive.
As is my habit, I returned to my room for a nap and some quiet time. Arising refreshed, I went for an early evening stroll about the old city. It was excellent. The piazza and the streets leading to the piazza were filled with Italian families. They were so much fun to watch. The children playing. The families smiling and greeting each other with kisses. It seemed the perfect part of small city life.
Later, on the advise of the hotel, I attended vespers at the Church of Saint Benedict, which is the primary church of Norcia and is on the main piazza. I ascended into the lower chambers of the church, sitting on an ancient wooden bench to listen to the Gregorian chanting of the monk's evening prayers. The sounds that came from those dozen monks was very soothing and the small, stone chamber had perfect acoustics. I was surprised at my enjoyment.
Departing in silence, I walked again across the piazza to the hotel and an amazing dinner at Ristorante Vespasia. The restaurant was rather elegant with very soft colors and modern art adorning the walls. There was live music that was a bit loud but that could not distract me from my goal of fine dining. As has often been the case, I was brought a Spumanti and a small taster, which was a small piece of roasted pidgeon in a delicious sauce. The menu and wine list were delivered. I selected a 2005 La Spinetta "Starderi" Barbaresco, which I knew from my time in Piemonte was excellent.
First came "Uovo di Fattoria al Tartufo Nero di Norcia." The fresh farm eggs were soft boiled and covered with black truffle sprinkles. This serving was so wonderful! The taste and texture combination was perfect. The soft egg combined with the firm, rich truffle followed by a sip of wine made, at least for me, a exceptional dining experience.
Next came the "Agnello dei Roveja di Sibillini alle erbe dell'orto cotto allo spiedo souffle alle lenticchie di Castelluccio di Norcia, LGP". The tender lamb was encrusted in crisp skin, making each taste an excellent combination of textures, too. The lentil souffle was rich and simply outstanding. It was beautifully presented and finished off an excellent dinner. After an espresso I was off to bed for a long sleep to prepare myself for the drive back to Montepulciano.
As an aside, I awoke during the night, thanks to the coffee, and wandered over to the balcony of my room. It was great luck for outside the full moon glowed above the mountains. It was the finish to a beautiful night. So, back to bed and to sleep, perchance to dream.
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