The Dining and Travel Adventures of a wandering Buddhist

Living in the culinary "now" with no attachment.

Sunday, June 30, 2013

Driving in Sicily and/or Italy

I enjoyed the challenge of driving in Sicily.  The thought was a bit daunting but the reality was exciting.  A short description would be that it is simply controlled chaos.  However, as long as one shows no fear it can actually be fun.

An example of what I mean would be a time I spent observing an intersection in the afternoon.  Yes, in this situation I sat on a bench watching.  There would be no time for such observations if I were driving.  The nearby elementary school was releasing its children to their parents.  It was the time of day for an afternoon gelato and to have a chat.  Some businesses around the piazza were reopening and were taking deliveries.  The piazza I was observing was a roundabout or rotary with five entrances and no center dividing island.  The potential existed for some excitement.

At the beginning everything was quiet.  I sat in the shade and enjoyed the tranquility.  The perimeter of the piazza had a few cars parked at different angles but none were obstructed.  First, a delivery truck pulled into the piazza, blocking several cars.  The driver got out of the truck, opened the back and began to make his delivery.  A car pulled up behind the truck.  The driver of the car got out and went into a nearby store.  A car pulled into the middle of the piazza and parked.  A woman got out and walked to the nearby school.  Another car honked, then went around the parked car.  Another car parked in front of the woman's car but at a different angle.  The man got out and went into a bar (a coffee shop in Italy).  A man walked across the piazza, encountered a friend in the middle of the piazza.  They stopped for a chat.  In the meantime, several cars entered the piazza, weaved about and exited on one of the other streets.  The woman came with her child, got into her car and honked her horn.  The man who had parked behind her came out, after a couple of honks, and backed his car up enough for her to depart.  She pulled out in front of a car entering the piazza.  The third car stopped to let her enter traffic and then parked diagonally in her spot.  The woman got out and entered a grocery.  The man who had moved his car made some gesture to the woman and went back into a shop.  Another delivery truck arrived and parked in the middle of the piazza.  Now there was a large delivery truck and four cars parked at different angles in the middle of the piazza.  Around the piazza cars were parked two deep and there were several groups standing about chatting.  There was a narrow path for cars to move through the piazza and there was a continuous flow.  There was a bit of honking.  The events above occurred in around 15 minutes.  As I watched I wondered how this would unwind.

Half an hour later the piazza was virtually empty.  For a time there were cars moving in every direction.  It was like a well orchestrated symphony.  I guess that, because they did this every day and the drivers were probably the same each day, they all knew what to do.  The drivers were all considerate and courteous.  There were no accidents.  Noone was angry.  I sat in amazement but with a smile.  Now that the fun was over I went for a gelato.

Many times during my month of driving in Sicily I witness driving courtesy.  Only once...in Palermo...did I get bumped by a man who entered an intersection too far (it was the habit to move one's car into an intersection further and further until someone stopped to allow your movement into traffic...generally, drivers just swerved around the intruding car...the guy I bumped came too far so I bumped him...he made a gesture but I just kept driving).

So, that's my driving story in Sicily.  You can show no fear but you must be courteous.  Don't look at other drivers but just keep moving forward for a little bump never hurt anyone.  I hope that the driver I bumped doesn't read this and track me down.  Safe driving and safe travels, S

Wednesday, June 19, 2013

A Style of Travel

I've now been traveling for just about a month around the island of Sicily.  One experience that I would like to share with you is a reflection of the traveling style that I have come to practice.  The event occurred after I'd been traveling for ten days or so.  The day began with a good but small breakfast in a nice, little hotel in Marsala.  On that specific day I had decided to head southeast to the small seaside city of Sciacca, which was well known for a specific type of dining experience.  Also, I had noticed that the drive to Sciacca had the possibility of seeing some beautiful scenery.  So, this is my story...and I'm sticking with it...

"The town of Mazara del Vallo was behind me.  I was on my way to Sciacca for a lovely lunch of Gamberoni con Conza.  There was plenty of time so I decided not to drive the faster strada statale but to follow back country roads.  A few kilometers beyond Campobello di Mazara I rounded a bend in the road, began up a small knoll and at the top of that knoll I came upon a lovely spot.  There, atop the hill, under a large olive tree, was a small stone bench.  I pulled the car into the shade of the tree and, with my bottle of water, I took a seat on the weathered bench.  The seat was very comfortable, gently carved by what may have been centuries of others sitting in this same spot.  The cool sea breeze was refreshing on this warm spring day.  I sipped my water.  My shoulders relaxed as I sank further into the bench.  I felt as though I could nap.  My eyes followed the undulating hills, covered with vineyards and dotted with groves of olive and almond trees, as they seem to roll into the turquoise sea just beyond.  There were occasional spots of bright pink oleander to give a certain color and depth to this beautiful sight.  I listened to the birds and watched them swirl about the clear blue sky.  I languished.  My mind did not wander but became fixed on the beauty of the many shades of nature but, mostly, it focussed on the deep turquoise of the sea.  Finally, I napped.  Hunger awoke me.  I sat up, looking about a bit longer but soon resumed my drive to Sciacca and food."