A Degustation Divine

As I sat on the veranda, behind the Appellation (www.appellation.com.au) dining area, overlooking the vineyards I noticed the afternoon shadows lengthening on the distant foothills as the sun sank into the west.  A strong breeze whipped the gum trees.  Small birds flittered about in the low bushes and, in the distance, a lone bird called for its mate.  Light jazz floated in the background as I sipped my cocktail and waited my dinner.  It may be summer but the late afternoon air was cool.  As the sun dipped below the veranda’s awning I felt welcome warmth when its rays touched my cheek.  After a time she came to me and with a quick smile asked if I was ready for my dinner.  She escorted me to a small table for one in the corner of the dining room.  It was an excellent spot for me.  I thanked her and she retreated into the kitchen.

I knew that this would be an interesting experience because of the culinary philosophy of the chef.  He believed in using only local ingredients and he turned the formula for wine-food pairings on its head.  Given that this was wine country, he selected the best wines and prepared the food to match the wine he’d selected.

While I will not bore you with all of the intricacies of this delicious meal, I will share the details of what I believe were the highlights.  The first course was a jellied master stock of pork reduction set on a crispy pork skin.  This was served with a wood-matured Verdelho (a port).  The taste and texture combination was amazing.  There was soft and sweet and crunchy and salty in each bite.

While there were nine courses, I will skip to course number 3, which was a lightly grilled prawn placed on a bed of fresh red pepper spagatini combined with spinach and corn, covered with a delicious reduction sauce.  The wine was a light Viognier.  The sauce was very light and each component was perfectly done.  The corn was amazingly crisp and sweet.  The pasta was so delicate and worked perfectly with the prawn.

Now, for the seventh course, which was my favorite.  This course had seared then thinly sliced Coorong beef layered then topped with watercress and shaved almonds.  The wine was an excellent 2010 Lucy Margeaux Pinot Noir.  The beef was perfectly done and had a light, buttery taste.  The almond shavings coupled with the watercress highlighted the beef with the right amount of texture and taste.  A sip of the slightly peppery wine after each taste was a great taste sensation.  I savored this course slowly.

Lastly, for the most unique course, there were two candy coated Maltara Kalamata olives stuffed with white anchovies, skewered and served across a glass of 2010 Massena Primitivo (Italian style Zinfandel).  It was a quite beautiful presentation and a taste extravaganza.

So, those were the highlights of my favorite dinner in the Barossa.

Some Very Fine Wineries and Wines

It has been a most excellent wine tasting day.  I began with a stop at the Two Hands Winery.  The Cellar Door was hidden down a long, dusty gravel road but was a most elegant facility.  There were padded leather chairs tucked along a lovely wooden bar.  Behind the bar were great racks of wine interspersed with some lovely artwork.  A quite nice young man came from behind the wall and offered a wine tasting menu.  I explained that I did not drink white wines and would prefer only the upper end reds.  He bowed his head every so slightly in acknowledgement, turned and retrieve four dark bottles, placing them in front of me.  First was the 2009 Bella’s Garden Shiraz.  It was a nice dry wine with strong hints of Black Currant.  Second was the 2008 Zippy’s Block Shiraz, another quite dry wine with a slightly higher alcohol content and strong Currant aroma.  Third came the 2007 Area Shiraz.  The quality of the wines suddenly jumped, as did the price.  This Shiraz was very smooth and not quite as dry.  The taste and nose were fruity and there was just a hint of Black Currant.  Lastly, there was the 2007 Aphrodite Cabernet Sauvignon.  This was, by far, my favorite.  The taste was very soft and there was an extremely smooth aftertaste.  The wine was dry but there were strong fruit undertones along with a small emphasis of Black Currant.  It had been quite a first tasting of the day.

Second came the Torbeck Winery.  Here the Cellar Door was obviously more of an afterthought.  There were no signs and only a very small parking area.  The building was part of an old equipment repair facility.  However, inside there was magic.  I began with my same request as before and, again, four bottles of wine were placed in front of me.  The first wine was a 2008 “The Gask” Shiraz.  These wines were aged in French oak.  The Gask was not too dry and had a very nice berry and cassis nose and taste.  Second came 2008 “The Celt” Shiraz, a smoother wine with excellent legs and a great nose.  Third was the 2007 “Descendant” Shiraz.  The Descendant was a blend of 92% Shiraz and 8% Viognier, which made the wine much smoother.  This wine was just slightly dry and had a great nose.  Lastly was their special wine, a 2007 “RunRig” Shiraz, which was a blend of 98% Shiraz and just 2% Viognier.  RunRig was amazingly smooth and held an excellent fruity taste.  In my mind, while the first stop was better than expected, this stop was so much better than the first that I was just shaking my head.  Here the server asked where I was headed next.  After I had told him he immediately suggested a change.  So, now I’m of to the Hentley Winery.

Hentley was a well-hidden place, too, but it was well worth the effort to find.  There was a nice little Cellar Door and the server was a very pleasant young woman.  After I paid a small charge we began our tasting.  This time I say we because she was nice enough to taste with me.  Our first was a new project for them.  She asked that I try it and offer an opinion.  The wine was a 2009 Zinfandel that was smooth, not too dry and had a nice cassis taste.  Second was a 2008 Shiraz blend called “The Beauty.”  It was a blend of 97% Shiraz and 3% Viognier.  The wine was very soft.  It had a hint of oak and Black Currant.  It was an elegant wine.  Next came the 2008 Shiraz called “The Beast.”  This was a very dry full-bodied yet smooth wine.  The same grapes were used in both “The Beauty” and “The Beast”, with the difference being the small percentage of Viognier that gave “The Beauty” its elegance.  Lastly, their special wine was a 2008 “Clos Otto” Shiraz that was created from the grapes harvested from a special section of their vineyard.  This wine was amazingly smooth with excellent dryness and fruity tastes.  What A day!

A Meaty Issue

This discussion is pointed directly at my carnivore friends.  My vegetarian friends might want to skip this piece.

As you may recall from previous writings, during my time in Paris I had a lovely lunch at Les Violon d’Ingres.  The most significant part of that meal was the tete du veau.  Yes, that would be calf brains, which were most delicious.  In each bite I would take a small portion of the solid, meaty part, combine it with an equally sized portion of the soft, buttery part and place that with a piece of boiled new potato.  I would swirl that through the citrus-based sauce and allow that excellent combination of textures and tastes to dissolve in my mouth.  I would follow each portion with a sip of a wonderful 2006 Lalande de Pomerol wine from the Chateau Grand Ormeau.

The commonality of the breakfast experiences I have had at the Abbotsford Country House center around an organ meat extravaganza.  Each breakfast has produced an outstanding taste sensation.  The composition of the meal is generally the same.  There is a large portion of fresh mushrooms sautéed in butter.  There is a halved, lightly fried fresh tomato topped with slivers of pecorino romano.  There are several thick slices of locally smoked bacon (smoked with Gum wood).  There are two perfectly poached eggs.  Finally there is a portion of either Black Pudding or White Pudding or Haggis.

What is the most exciting to me is the taste of those perfectly spiced organ delicacies when combined with a portion of the poached egg.  It is literally a melt in your mouth experience.  The Black Pudding is a combination of leans pig pieces (ear, kidney, spleen, heart, etc.) prepared with a grain in pig’s blood and spiced primarily with allspice and marjoram.  The White Pudding combines the fatty pigs pieces (cheeks, tongue, belly scraps, liver), again prepared with a grain in pig’s blood and spiced primarily with allspice.  The Haggis is a combination of all of the above organ and meat portions but prepared in their own juices and sans the blood.

At the beginning, like with the calve brains, I closed my eyes and opened my mouth.  Sometimes that can be a big mistake.  This time it was a delicious treat.  While such a culinary adventure may not be in your future, should you happen upon the opportunity, take it.  Like Casey Stengel once said, “When you come to a fork in the road, take it.”

Bon Appetit.

The Pindari Winery: a fun tasting

Down a long gravel road, far from any other winery, sat the Pindarie Winery. It was not at all quaint, but a new building overlooking its vineyard.  I wandered in, sat at the bar and waited for the young man behind the bar to notice me.  As soon as he caught sight of me he brought over a few bottles of wine.  We exchanged introductions and I explained that I had no interest in white wine.  He took away the whites and we focused on five very nice red wines. Shortly after we began a short, thin but quite jolly fellow came from the back room to stand near my server.  He was very interested in what we were doing, often smiling a very wide smile but not uttering a word.  First I sampled a 2009 Barossa Valley blended wine.  It was a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 25% Sangiovese and 5% Shiraz.  What a wonderful drinking wine it was.  It was light and slightly fruity.  Second came a 2008 Barossa Valley Shiraz.  It was much more full-bodied, a bit more fruity and extremely smooth.  This wine would be great with a nice steak.  Lastly, he brought out three 2008 Black Hinge Reserve Range wines, one with Shiraz grapes, a second with Cabernet and a third with Tempranillo.  The Shiraz was good, the Cab was better, but the Tempranillo was perfect.   I ordered a lamb and quince pie for lunch and settled it with a large glass of the Black Hinge Tempranillo.  Now, I was ready to call it a day.  Fortunately I was not to far from the B&B.  I was napping again within the hour, dreaming of what wonderful adventure tomorrow might bring.

Rockford Winery: My First Tasting

I am happily sitting in the parlor of the Abbotsford Country House, regarding hills drenched in late afternoon sun, and reflecting on my first day of wine tasting.  While I didn’t necessarily have expectations, the day has been a particularly happy day.

I arose just after sun up.  It was a beautifully colorful early morning.  I sat in meditation for an hour or so and then meandered into the shower.  Shortly before 9 am I departed my room and crossed the gardens for breakfast.  I was greeted by a smiling hostess, Jane, and host, Julian, as well as with a number of breakfast choices.  They suggested that if I were going to do some wine tasting that a hearty breakfast would be best.  I agreed and did, indeed, have a very tasty and hearty meal.  I won’t bore you with the details but, I ate and we chatted about wineries for two hours.  In the end, I was stuffed with food and information.  The entire event wore me out so I wandered back to the room to take a nap.

After my short rest I gathered my materials (maps and such) and headed on down the road.  My first stop was the Rockford Winery, a boutique place off the beaten path.  As with many smaller wineries, their sign was difficult to locate and the buildings were rather innocuous.  It was a very quaint facility on a back road.  At first blush it just looked like a rundown farm.  I was able to catch sight of the place only because of the cars parked along the road.  I parked near the Cellar Door, the Australian term for tasting room, and headed in for a sip or two.  The place was very small and packed with people.  I backed out and waited a bit.  After a few tasters had departed I reentered the tasting area.  Tastings were served along an L-shaped antique wooden bar, which the staff scurried behind to serve the thirsty.  Despite the low-keyed frenzy, the staff was very friendly and extremely well informed.  I noticed that they would patiently take the time that each visitor required to understand and enjoy their sample of this wine or that.  One of the winery managers, Joe, became my leader.  We began with a 2006 Semillon, a nice light and very dry white wine.  At that point I decided, no more white wine tasting for me.  I love red wines and that’s what I’ll taste.  Next came a 2007 Shiraz called Rod & Spur.  It was dry and very oakey with great legs.  This winery ages its wines in French oak barrels.  The next wine was a 2008 Cab called Rifle Range.  This wine was very smooth and, again, oakey.

The wines were fine but not that special.  Joe asked if I’d like to taste one of their special wines.  Now I was the only one in the tasting room.  Joe reached under the counter and came up with a bottle of “Black Shiraz”.  It is blended with the same varietal over several years.  This particular batch had an average age of 7 years and the oldest grapes were 20 years old.  The taste was spectacular.  I asked if they’d ship to America.  He said yes but that the cost was very high ($300/case).  I decided to purchase a bottle for more extensive sampling.

Next Joe asked if I like to sample a special fortified wine that is not normally sampled.  I smiled and again he reached under the counter.  This time he produced a 2003 Shiraz Vintage Port.  One taste and I thought, if it continues like this today will be a very long day.  I convinced him to give me another taste.  I love port and this one was special.  I asked if I might purchase a bottle.  He smiled and we headed for the cash register.  What a superior first experience.  I lounged in a great old place visiting with some very friendly and knowledgeable people, tasting spectacular wines.

The Barossa Valley

The Barossa Valley is geographically quite small.  The valley’s nearly 60 wineries are contained in an area not more than 60 km long and 30 km wide.  The commercial center, Nuriootpa, is located at the northern end of the growing area.  In the center of the valley is the small town of Tanunda.  Many of the vineyards and most guest accommodations are in or around Tanunda.  Further south are the villages of Lyndoch and Williamstown, which house a few wineries and are much quieter and less congested than the central valley.  To the east of Tanunda is the lovely little village of Angaston, which lies on the cusp of the foothills separating the Barossa and Eden Valleys.

The Barossa Valley in known primarily for growing and producing Shiraz wines, which are red wines.  The Eden Valley produces better white wines.  As it turns out, there are many diverse wine-growing regions in Australia, each of which is best known for a particular type of grape.  As I visit different valleys I will discuss their wine specialty.

During my days in the Barossa Valley I intend to visit 10 boutique wineries, each of which was recommended to me by people who love wine.  As I discover particular wines that I enjoy I shall share that information with you.  Also, as I learn about winemaking and how it is practiced here, I will share that information, too.

Abbotsford Country House: My Home in the Barossa Valley

I turned south down the main road of the valley and wondered at the juxtaposition of wide-open spaces and lush vineyards.  At one moment it looked like a great winegrowing place and the next it looked like a desert.  I passed into and through the town of Tanunda, a quite clean and well-manicured place.  As the congestion of Tanunda disappeared behind me and I came upon the small village of Lyndoch I became calmer.  I was finally, after three days of driving, near to my first destination.  I passed through the village and, after a couple of kilometers I saw a sign for “Abbotsford Country House.”  I turned down what was at first a paved road but then became gravel.  As the dust billowed behind me I wandered further into the countryside.  Just over a rise I saw, perched on a hilltop, the place I would call home for the next few days.  I turned up the long, curving driveway and then into the parking area.  I turned off the engine, I sat back and I sighed.

At first blush it was the panoramic views that caught my eye.  As I got out of the car it was obvious that this was a very nice compound of buildings appointed with sweeping green lawns and quite lovely rose gardens.  I entered the main building, which houses the owners as well as a spacious parlor and a very nice dining area to check in.  The welcome was so very open and friendly.  This was the perfect place for an old farmer like me.

Now that I have been here for a couple of days I can report on the daily rhythm that I have adopted.  As the early morning light arrives I tend to be awakened by the very faint mooing of the cattle (the B&B is a small cattle farms, too).  After a time, I arise and begin an hour of meditation.  It is a very peaceful time.  Nearing the end of my meditation the sun peeks over the distant foothills and across my room.  As I finish my meditation time the songs of the birds have replaced the cattle sounds, signaling that the day is off to a fine start.  By the time that I’ve showered the breakfast room is open.  Each morning I have been treated to a most wonderful feast and the hosts, Julian and Jane, have been most gracious in sharing their time to tell me about the valley.  After a couple of hours with them I am generally ready for a short nap.  All in all, I have been generally off for wine tasting just before noon.  Each day I have planned to visit three wineries, so my regimen for tastings lasts until late afternoon.  After I have become full of wine I will stop for a late lunch and then return home to decide how I might spend my evening, which tend to be very boring.  So, that is how my first week of vacation has unfolded.