The Dining and Travel Adventures of a wandering Buddhist

Living in the culinary "now" with no attachment.

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Ristorante Vitelli d'Oro In Udine, Italy

Exiting the hotel I take a stroll down the Via Paolo Sarpi, a pedestrian street full with people having their evening wine at the many outdoor cafes.  I make a turn at the ancient fish market and enter the lovely garden at the front of the restaurant.  Greeted there, I am quickly seated in the midst of quiet elegance.  Lush woods and fine fabrics line the walls.  Each table has an arrangement of roses atop its lovely linens.

A young waiter arrives, I light up my trusty I-Pad, and we begin the, sometimes, laborious process of composing a dinner.  I began with a 1999 Teresa Raiz Decano, as very dry, full bodied blended wine containing equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.  After looking over the menu I elected the Gran Menu Degustazione, which I figured would be a good sampling of all the good things this restaurant offered.  The one thing that I did not account for was the size of each portion.  Unlike other degustation menus, I found that these portions were quite large and, I must admit, it was not easy to finish this excellent meal.

First came a lovely soup topped with a fish ball and sprinkled with roasted “semi di girasole e zucca” (sunflower and pumpkin seeds), a sort of pine nut.

Second was the Capesante Scottate, Tortino di Bulgar e Salsa Allo Zafferano, which was beautifully presented and very nicely spiced.  The scallops were perfectly done and the Bulgar with herbs and seeds was delicious.

Next came eight different servings of raw Blue Fin Tuna (La Verticale di Tonno), I missed the Italian term, each of which was differently spiced.  The first taste was natural with a bit of sea salt.  The fish was excellent and definitely sashimi grade.  The second was with tiny chunks of ripe avocado.  The third had caviar eggs.  The fourth had small chunks of green and black olives.  The next had capers.  The sixth was mixed with an excellent balsamic reduction sauce, which was to that point my favorite.  The seventh was mixed with a delicious Udinese honey and became my favorite.  The final taste was a mix of tuna and a mysterious tangy sauce and that was definitely my favorite.  So, as the tastes progressed each, in its turn became my favorite.  I could’ve made a meal of just this portion.

Third was the Scaloppa di Ricciola al Pomodoro Fresco, Erbette Rosse e Patate Saltate.  This was beautifully presented, if a bit odd to see.  Fresh mozzarella in a bed of tomato next to a large piece of nicely cooked Amberjack just seemed odd but the taste was very good.  The roasted vegetables were excellent, too.

Fourth was then Spaghetti Estivi Mancini con Gamberi, Regina di San Daniele e Melanzane.  Surprisingly, this serving was cold but it was excellent.  Once again the seafood was perfectly done.  The tastes and textures were excellent.  It was impossible to compose a taste without a different, special sensation.  The eggplant was excellent.

Finally, we seemed to be coming to the finish of the excellent but very heavy dinner.  The waiter brought a large dish of Gelato on a bed of fresh melon and ginger.  It was very light and was exactly what was necessary at this stage of the evening.  However, finally was just a bit presumptuous.  The dessert of cooked custard coated with baked apple and topped with a large scoop of raspberry sorbet would be the final serving.  It was beautiful and delicious but I could not finish.  So, a portion of the Rosa Tiepolo, creazione in omaggio al Giovane GB Tiepolo went unfinished.  I sadly watched the waiter clear my table, I paid the rather small bill, given the amount I consumed, and I waddled back to my bed. 

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Thoughts on Vienna and Austria

For those who have not ventured to this corner of the world, Austria is a small, beautiful country with rolling hills, lush fields, old growth forests and quaint villages.  The people appear very hearty and have a life focus which does not seem very friendly at first but warms with time...even just a short time.  They are jovial en masse and have a suble joie de vivra.  The villages are pristine and full of a heritage preserved with obvious pride.  The cuisine is equally hearty, as is the beer and wine.

Vienna is similar to other large European cities.  It may be cleaner than some but, like all others, it has its very beautiful parts and its parts that are not so appealing.  The city center (altstadt) is full of very elegant facades, however, there is much construction which dampened their beauty.  Also, the city planners have allowed modern buidlings to creep in amongst the beautiful facades.  The combination is often not too appealing.  The city has many parks, which softens the effect of the helter skelter of city life.  The city is a melting pot of tourists as well as residents.  There are many Eastern Europeans, a growing number of Asians, many Italians and too many Americans (mostly doing business).  Overall, I liked this city and may return to spend more time during next year's European vacation.

Schloss Schonbrunn: an elegant adventure

On this leisurely Sunday morning I again took my breakfast at the hotel and then walked to a nearby park.  I took a seat in the sun, just beside a nice rose garden which had a few Kana Lilies as its border.  The lilies took my thoughts to home.  I wondered if I would ever permanently leave that lovely place.

This park was full of large oak trees.  It was the time of year when their seeds would make their propeller ride to the ground in search of a space for rooting to become their own giant tree.  The spiraling seeds took my thoughts back to my boyhood, which gave me a smile.  This place was perfect for quiet contemplation.  The day was warm and the sun was bright.  There was a quite strong wind, as if a change in the weather might be coming, but this part of the park was largely protected from the strong gusts.

From time to time the air would come alive with the peel of distant church bells or the joyous screams of children playing on the distant side of the park.  It was a good punctuation to the quiet.  Often people would walk by with their dogs, which made me think of Pua and how she might be.  At this hour she would be sound asleep and that was good.

As the morning passed I decided to spend the rest of this day at the Schloss.  It would not be so peaceful but more stimulating.  I took a cab to the front of the castle complex and arranged for my schedule of events that would keep me here into the night.  First, their was the grand tour which was, indeed, pretty grand.  There were many very ornate rooms filled with ornate furniture and ornate painting.  However, for me, it's a bit like cathedrals in that after you've seen a few the rest are often simply more of the same.  Sure, there are occassionally distinctive features but, in this case, the sameness allowed me to move through the tour quite quickly. It should be pointed out that this must be very interesting to most because there were, seemingly, all of God's tourists packed into this enormous place.  It was like what it must've been in the Tower of Babel.  I exited the castle and walked through the unbelieveably beautiful gardens.  Although it has been some time, it seemed to me that these gardens were more beautiful than Versailles.  I trekked to the top of the gardens where there was a memorial and from that vantage point there was a panoramic view of the city.  I lingered here for some time, overlooking the beautiful flower gardens below.

Time passed and, as the sun began to set, I moved to the castle restaurant where I had arranged to have dinner before the evening concert.  The restaurant was very elegant.  My fellow diners were mostly older people seated in groups of four or six.  There were a couple of tables with one or two diners but we were definately in the minority.  The attire was interesting.  I brought a tie and wore a sports coat so that I would not be too underdressed.  Well, that was hardly necessary.  There was a wide range of dress, some well dressed and some not so much..

I began my dinner with a Campari and then ordered Rotweine (red wine) from a local winery.  The Rotweine was quite good, much to my surprise.  I was seated by a Japanese woman and her daughter so we toasted "compi" before our dinner.  The meal began with Beef Consomme (Rindsuppe) with Sliced Pancake (Frittaten).  It was smooth with a rich broth and very enjoyable.  Next came the "Tafelspitz mit schnittlauchsauce mit gerosteten erdapfel" or boiled corned beef with a chive sauce and roasted potatoes.  The beef with the chive sauce was excellent and the roasted potatoes were perfectly spiced.  It was a very enjoyable entree.  Lastly, the serving was a very elegant Applestrudel, hand made and complimented with an excellent cream sauce.  It was a very nice meal from what was basically a museum restaurant.

After dinner we retired to the concert hall, the Orangerie, for this evening's performance.  The hall was extremely elegant and the elegance was enhanced by the soft orange lighting.  The 16-piece orchestra was outstanding, for a country boy like me.  The pieces that included opera were nice but not particularly special.  The pieces that included ballet were not that special but, in all cases, the music was excellent.  It was a very nice evening and a great sendoff for my drive to Italy the next morning.

Saturday, September 17, 2011

Huber's Essen & Trinken, Vienna...a culinary surprise

I was unable to secure a table at Steirereck (poor planning) so the concierge recommended that I try a place that he has come to enjoy, so, off I go to Huber's on Rennweg (http://www.hubersonline.at/) for what I hoped would be a good "local" dining experience.  What I found was, in essence, a local corner bar with a bit of elegance.  It was a rather small place with but four inside tables, a handfull of outside tables and no more than a half dozen bar stools.  However, the inside ambiance was quite nice, given that the location is on a pretty busy street.  The decor is art deco and the apponitments were very elegant.  My fellow diners were all local families and there were a few local guys at the bar snacking and drinking and having a very nice, jovial time.  It was a very relaxing place to have a nice meal and to absorb local culture.

The owners were Georgia and Andreas.  I could just catch a glimpse of Georgia working away in her petite kitchen.  As for Andreas, he was the waiter/bartender and a most amiable guy with a nice smile and an excellent temperment.  The service was very good.  The dinner was nicely paced.  I began with a Trumer Pilsner (I have decided that it is better to have beer than wine in Austria) and munched on a tray of breads, black olives and small, sweet peppers as I perused the small menu.

I began with a Red Beet Gnocchi in a bed of rich, creamy sauce and topped with a delicate piece of smoked trout.  The composition of a bite included a small piece of smoked trout over a piece of tender gnocchi which was then passed through the creamy sauce.  Holding a small bite in one's mouth for a moment to allow it to penetrate the taste buds was simply, well, beyond description.  After every few small bites I would take a sip of beer, which was light and added a different dimension to the next small bite.  I languished over this first serving for some time.  Andreas came toward the table twice but turned away.  Finally, I gathered the last bit of creamy sauce with a piece of bread and pushed back to catch my breath.

Next came the Buffalo Mozzarella Tower with Rucola(arugula) and Pesto.  It was a beautiful presentation and a very interesting approach to Caprese.  The tower was comprised of a layer of succulent tomato, a layer of firm, fresh mozzarella, a layer of nicely done aubergine(eggplant), then mozzarella, then a repeat of each item.  The Rucola added a nice peppery accent and the Pesto had just the right amount of garlic.  The combined tastes were excellent.  Once again, with a bite consisting of a bit of tomato, a bit of cheese, a bit of eggplant, all covered with arugula and pesto, the taste buds were thrown into a state of total ecstacy.  Andreas was beginning to wonder if I would ever finish this meal.

Lastly, I selected the mandatory Wiener Schnitzel of Veal with Parsley Potatoes and a lovely side salad..  The salad was a beautiful small garden salad.  All of the ingredients were fresh and crisp.  The dressing was light and refreshing.  The salad was an excellent compliment to the Schnitzel, which was lightly breaded and very tender.  The potatoes were light and buttery.  Overall, the entree possessed a nice range of texture and tastes but I took them more in succession rather then in tandem.  I would enjoy a bite of veal, then a bit of potato, then a bite of salad, then sit back for a moment, then have a sip of beer.  This process continued until the platter was clean.  If I had been observing a person eating a meal in this fashion I am certain that I would have thought it very odd, but for me, I was experiencing massive enjoyment.

Now, I must admit that I was satisfied.  I would not be able to enjoy a dessert this evening so I settled for a nice glass of Grappa to settle myself for the stroll back to the hotel.  This had been a very nice dining experience.  I paid the surprisingly small bill, bid farewell to Andreas and sauntered into the night.

Friday, September 16, 2011

Joseph Decuis: excellence amidst banality (my word)

After a couple of fits and starts our rendevous was arranged for the restaurant.  I drove from the city and into this very small village of Roanoke, Indiana, which had but one main street.  Fortunately, that one main street was dominated by the Joseph Decuis Restauant and nearby Emporium.  I, as usual, arrived a bit early.  I took a few minutes to walk the length and breadth of this petite central business district.  I had just stopped at the front of the restaurant to peruse the menu when the ladies arrived.  Suddenly the air was full of hugs and kisses and sighs and smiles and thoughts of what had been those many years ago.

My guests for that evening were Sonja (aka Sunnie, probably because of her electric smile and bubbly personality) who was quite likely the only person alive who has known me since I was a child.  Our mothers were best friends and we literally grew up together.  Second, there was Bridgette, Sunnie's indefatigable younger sister and the personification of "joie de vivre".  Lastly and certainly not the least was Sunnie's lovely daughter, Erin, a quite stunning young woman who possesses a certain "je ne sais quoi".  What an outstanding group with whom I was having the pleasure of spending this evening.

We  were still a bit early so we wandered down to the Emporium.  It was quite a nice little cafe and shop, surprisingly full of evident delicacies and with a rather large backroom full of a surprisingly wide variety of wines.  The shop was richly appointed and was a place I would frequent if weren't in the middle of nowhere.  After a time we stepped into the restaurant, again entering a richly appointed den of fine dining.  I noticed that to the back of a rather small initial dining area was an enormous, fully appointed kitchen open to the dining area. It was a beautiful sight, this restaurant's heart.

We were escorted through the initial dining area and into a lovely atrium area, where we would take our dinner.  As we sat, reviewing the menu and chatting away a smile came to my spirit as I realized the special nature of this time and these women and this place.  As the evening conversation progressed there were fond memories sprinkled with a few thoughts of sadness but that all passed as eventually our thoughts focused on the food and we ordered.

Although this will not be a detailed description of this outstanding culinary adventure, for I spent too much time enjoying the pleasure of these women, I can tell you that each serving was beautifully presented.  I can say that each serving was an excellent combination of texture and tastes for we each shared our selection.  This island of dining pleasure cast in a sea of middle American dining mediocrity was filled with excellence.  The ambiance was excellent, the service was beyond reproach and those things perfectly complimented a very memorable dining experience.

I will share a few thoughts on my specific selections.  We had a very nice 2006 Domaine Serene Reserve Pinot Noir.  My selections began with Pan Seared Veal Brains served on a bed of scrambled eggs with chives, surrounded with freshly picked asparagus from the restaurant's gardens and covered with a rich broth.  The meat preparation had a light crust and was deliciously tender on the inside.  When combined with the firmness of the asparagus and the creaminess of the eggs, the taste/texture combination was superior.  Secondly, I had Panchetta-wrapped Monkfish served on a bed of creamy polenta filled with fresh garden vegetables.  The fish was perfectly done and, once again, the combination was flavors was exceptional.  I was very pleasantly surprised to find such selections in the heartland.

So, I shall most likely never again pass through Roanoke, Indiana but I did have an excellent time while I was in that tiny little village.  If you should get lost or have a mental lapse and end up near this village, stop for a bite.  You will not be dissapointed.

Monday, September 12, 2011

Fogo de Chao...a Brazilian Restaurant

I'm not quite certain what makes this place a "Brazilian" restaurant but, what ever the lineage, it certainly was, in my experience, unique.  It is an art deco/modernistic place with lots of wood and glass.  It has the ambiance of a fast food restaurant, noisy, hectic and very crowded.  However, if you can get past those distractions you could have an excellent meal.

In the center of the eating area is a large island salad bar, sort of like in the '60's.  The serve yourself salad bar is not particularly distinctive except for the fact that it is an interesting place to watch the herd of overweight patrons push and shove for the only greens they've seen in probably a year.  However, it does have delicious artichoke hearts, hearts of palm, lovely sweet peppers, shittake mushrooms, smoked salmon, fresh mozzarella, and sun-dried tomatoes.  When patrons have finished grazing they may begin their main course, which consists of meat, meat and more meat.

The main course is served, one does not order but, rather selects from an unending parade of servers with enormous skewers of meats prepared in a wide range of ways, and the service is very good.  Occasionally the service seems a bit too attentive.  It's almost like they're pushing you to finish so that they can turn the table and there is a large waiting room full of wide bodies.  The core of the main course is comprised of excellent garlic mashed potatoes, sweet fried bananas with brown sugar, and thinly sliced fried polenta topped with grated Parmesan.  These are all excellent and they continually replenish the dishes.

The stars of the meals are the meats.  The skewers are very large.  A man with a skewers walks up to the table and asks if you'd like what he has on his skewer.  At this point many of the women diner faint.  If you'd like a cut then he'd ask if you'd like medium, rare or whatever.  You select medium rare, he cuts a slice and shows it to you.  If you like what you see he places it on your plate.  That process goes on continually for as long as you allow it.  The meats are fillets, rib eye, and sirloin for the beef, each prepared in a range of different way, as well as lamb and pork.  I guess this is the Brazilian part for each preparation has a different name, e.g., Picanha or Aleatra or Fraldinha or Cordeiro and so on.  No matter the name, each serving was perfectly spiced, done exactly as you would wish, and simply delicious.

The restaurant had a large wine list, too.  For me, I complimented my meal with an outstanding 2006 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon.  So, the entire evening my senses were overwhelmed by a delicious bit, a sip of wine and a look around at the carnival surrounding me.  If this food had been served in a lovely little bistro it would've been an outstanding culinary experience.  But, with all of the noise and commotion it was just an outstanding culinary experience.  I may never travel this way again but it was a lovely experience.

Saturday, September 10, 2011

Harry and Izzy's: the best of Indianapolis

Carving our way through the city's downtown reconstruction in preparation for the next Super Bowl, amazingly we land in front what is purported to be Indianapolis' best eatery, Harry and Izzy's.  I was not aware of the fame of this center city food palace but my brother, David, came loaded with a healthy appetite.  Fortunately, given the construction, there was valet parking so we had a few moments to stroll about the downtown.  We briefly viewed the new 5-star hotel, The Conrad, and we peeked into the elegant old Canterbury Hotel just next to the restaurant.  It was good to know that such places existed given the possibility of a future visit.

Just before our scheduled time we entered this lushly appointed sports bar for a possible early seating.  We were easily accommodated and settled into a very nice leather booth in an smaller room just off of the bar.  It would be a good space to have our brotherly chat as contrasted to the much larger and noisier bar area.  As we were escorted through the main bar area I notice that the patrons were a large, earthy group and they reminded me of my life as a young boy growing up in the heartland.  Our waiter brought menus and a wine list.  We perused and chatted as light jazz played in the background.  After a time the waiter returned with some lovely breads and to receive our selections.  David selected a glass of house chardonnay and I ordered a bottle of 2008 Domaine Drouhin Pinot, which we would hopefully eventually share.  White wine drinkers in steak joints befuddle me.  Yes, as I looked over the menu it was obvious that this was a steak place.

For starters we would share an over sized portion of this restaurant's renowned Shrimp Cocktail to be covered in a very spicy horseradish sauce.  David's dinner choice was a medium Rib eye Steak with a side of Potato Pancakes (a Hoosier/German delicacy).  For me, who seldom orders a steak away from home, the Rack of Lamb on the rare side with a side of Asparagus Spears would be just fine.  We sipped and waited, but not for too long.  The Shrimp Cocktail was served shortly and it was covered in a sauce that was truly spicy.  The shrimp were large and meaty.  The meat was firm so they had been perfectly cooked.  The sauce was "eye watering" and certainly not a good sauce for wine.  So, we slowly nibbled away at this dish and sipped our cold waters.  The waiter did an excellent job of pacing our dinner, probably knowing that it would take us awhile to finish the spicy shrimp.

The remains of the appetizer were removed and our entrees were delivered.  The steak serving looked like a typical steak serving, possibly a bit larger.  However, the Rack of Lamb looked great.  We stopped our chatting and addressed the mass of meat before us.  The lamb was seated in a bed of delicious orange sauce and was perfectly cooked.  Each morsel was tender and, when dipped into the sauce, was perfectly spiced.  The Asparagus Spears were a beautiful green and they, too, were nicely cooked.  They had been bathed in butter, making each taste rich and each bite crisp.  I did not have a taste of David's steak but I do recall hearing several moans of culinary pleasure from his side of the booth.  We finished with a dessert which was not memorable.

I do not frequent steak houses in the normal course of my culinary adventures but, this is America's heartland where meat is king, so, there I was.  The ambiance was nice, although it would have been quite noisy in the main dining/bar area, the service was friendly and perfectly paced, and the food was excellent.  It might not be a place I would revisit but I am not sorry for the time we spent at Harry and Izzy's.

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Farm to Fork Hawaii

There is a growing movement around the world to consume foods that are grown close to the point of consumption.  Restaurants and regular people are buying fresher foods from local growers.  My experience at the Kealakekua Bed & Breakfast under the logo of Farm to Fork Hawaii guided by the effervescent Emily Peacock is a part of that movement.

One warm evening I gathered up my dining companion for this event, Virginia, and we set off for what we expected would be a wonderful culinary adventure.  We trekked down curvy Napoopoo Road to a well manicured terrace of green set amidst a sea of black lava and overlooking scenic Kealakekua Bay to sit with a small group of "foodies" for an evening of fine dining.  We were to experience the culinary skills of local chef and culinary instructor, Paul Heerlein (www.chefpaulhawaii.com) and we were not to be disappointed.

The ambiance of the open air dining overlooking the ocean was excellent, although the crowd was a bit raucous at times. For those of us fortunate enough to face the bay, we did see a "green flash" from that evening's sunset.  The soft background music was very nice and the wait staff did an excellent job despite their young ages.  Overall, it was a very collegial evening.

Regarding the menu, we began with a very nice array of hors d'oeuvers (pupus to local people) including (1) a Pipikaula, Brie and Cherry Tomato Crostini, (2)Ahi Poke Cones with a Wasabi Aioli and Tobiko, (3) Braised Kamuela Beef with CP's Kona Coffee Barbeque Sauce on a Roy Honda Tomato slice in a Compote with Goat Cheese Sauce, and (4) Uncle Jim's Shrimp Seviche on a Roy Honda Cucumber slice.  There were plentiful servings and they were well complimented with an array of crisp white wines.

Our appetizer was a delicious Ahi Tuna Carpaccio with shaved Parmigianino Reggiano cheese and Capers, all dressed with freshly squeezed lemon and drizzled with a very tasty Olive Oil. It was really a melt in your mouth first course.  Our soup was a nicely presented Lomi lomi Tomato Cappuccino with an Ono Gravlox Crostini.  The Cappuccino had a rich tomato taste and was accented with watercress, sweet onion and grapefruit.  It was nicely peppered yielding an excellent array of tastes with each bite.  The Crostini had an excellent cheese and was perfectly done.  The wine with both of these courses was a Sella & Mosca Vermentino which provided a firm melon taste but it did seem to have a bit of an aftertaste.

The entree was an outstanding preparation of locally farm raised Kona Kea Shrimp surrounded by a wide range of local vegetables that were tender and succulent.  However, at the center of the beautifully arranged vegetables was a very delicious squash puree which was the star of this course.  This presentation was an excellent representation of the quality of the Chef and his staff.  The entree was accompanied by a very nice Paso Robles Sauvignon Blanc.

The dessert was Emily's Mango and White Chocolate Mousse Phyllo Napoleon with a delicate Surinam Cherry Sauce.  This was a fortunately delicate selection in both texture and taste, making it a very nice close for the meal.  A small glass of Chateaux Saint Michel Riesling followed by a nice cup of French Roast Kona Lisa coffee set the stage for our gradual exit.  It had been a very nice group, with several farmers who had provided the ingredients for the meal in attendance.  I look forward to future dining sessions at this quite lovely location and the opportunity to visit with fellow local "foodies".

If you might be interested in the Farm to Fork concept and events, please contact Emily at 808-328-8150 or e-mail her at f2fhawaii@gmail.com.

The Coast Grille at the Hapuna Prince Resort...delightful

It was a lovely late afternoon as we headed for the seldom discussed Hapuna Prince Resort, the sister property to the world renowned Mauna Kea Resort located just across the road.  We entered the relatively non-descript lobby located some six stories above the ocean and were directed to a set of elevators which would carry us down four floors to the hotel's main restaurant, the Coast Grille.  We exited the elevator, crossed the gardens and came upon a very nice open air dining area with a nice view of the quite large pool area just one more story below and of the beautiful beach inlet two stories down.  The view was nicely panoramic despite a few very large and quite lovely old growth trees which served to partially block the setting sun.  It was still quite warm but there was a nice ocean breeze.  This evening I was being treated to dinner by my frequent dining companion , Sharon.  We perused the menu and wine list as we awaited  our wait person.  She, a very lovely local woman with a beautiful smile and a warm voice, arrived shortly with a plate of freshly baked breads and oil for dipping.  We selected our wine, a 2007 Domaine de l'Arlot "Clos des Floret, Nuits-St-Georges France, and settled in to watch the sun set. 

The horizon was very clear and we hoped for a "green flash" sunset.  As we sipped our wine and nibbled on the breads the sun sank into the ocean, yielding a small but quite brilliant "green flash".  I looked to Sharon and asked if she had seen it.  She had and smiled.  About that time the lady at the next table asked aloud if there had been a "green flash".  I looked in her direction, explaining that there had been a flash but that she would not be able to see it with her sunglasses on.  She turned and looked at me incredulously.  She turned to her husband, asking if he'd seen a "green flash"?  He smiled and looked down at his dinner.  She removed her sunglasses and glared at the horizon as if willing the "green flash" to return for her.  I looked at Sharon and she gave me that look which confirmed my suspicions that I should mind my own business.  We returned to our wine.

Our dinner arrived in good order.  Sharon had a very nice Iceberg Wedge Salad served with House Bacon, fresh buttery Avocado and an excellent Truffle Bleu Cheese Dressing.  I selected the Chilled Nakano Gold Tomato Gazpacho which contained a large dollop of Big Island Goat Cheese, Kamuela Strawberries and sprinkles of Baby Herbs.  I tasted a bit of Sharon's salad and it was good.  However, my Gazpacho was spectacular.  The mild acidity of the golden tomatoes coupled with the sweetness of the strawberries and the smooth, creamy goat cheese was a symphony for the taste buds.  While I did share a bit with my companion I will admit that it was shared grudgingly.  I slowly sipped the feast of tastes and textures, holding each spoonful in my mouth to allow its many taste dimensions to rest on my pallet.  I have never had such good Gazpacho.

After I had virtually licked the bowl clean our entrees were delivered.  Sharon had the a Garlic Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb with Mint Jus and sides of whipped Moloka'i Sweet Potatoes, Dijon Gratin, a serving of Ratatouille.  It must have been good.  She didn't say much during this course and I didn't get a taste.

I feasted on the pan roasted Kurobuta Pork Chop, which was perfectly done with a light crust on the outside while being deliciously moist inside.  My accompaniments were "Kea" Sweet Potato with Thyme Infused Ohia Honey and a Mustard Sauce along with honey coated organic Carrots.  The unique combination of Thyme, Mustard and the strong tasting Ohia Honey was very tasty and an excellent compliment to the meat.

After our entrees we were very satisfied and settled ourselves into nibbling on a dessert of fresh fruits along with smooth sorbets.  We sipped our coffees and shared comments on the glory of this delicious repast.  On the hour drive back to town we talked, as we often did, of the vagaries of life.  Yes, the river of life was flowing more slowly but many of the experiences were as delicious as this evening.  It was a very nice evening.

Thursday, September 1, 2011

Village Burger in Waimea...excellent...if you're careful.

Tucked just inside the door to the Parker Ranch Center food court is a very good little "burger kiosk" that is putting together some excellent sandwiches.  With the nifty Hawaiian slogan of "Holo I'a ka papa, kau I'a e ka mann" (when there is food, people gather...duh?...the duh? is mine) as their guide they are making beef burgers and fish burgers and mushroom burgers and taro burgers.  Also, they have a wide range of condiments and "outstanding" fries.

My selection  was the fire grilled Hawaiian Red Veal burger served on a crusty bun with a delicious tomato marmalade and sauteed onions.  The meat, which I always order rare, was outstanding.  The burger is very large and it had a good portion of the very nicely spiced tomato marmalade.  My only criticism was that the bun was dry and crumbly.  The next time I will select a different bun, like their chibotta bun, and that will make this sandwich perfect.  I had an order of their excellent fries and and epic chocolate shake.  Overall, the meal reminded me of the corner burger stands when I was growing up in the middle of America.  I am anxious for a return visit.

Paolo's in Pahoa...it's Italian...so is Paolo!

Pahoa is a dumpy little town just a short drive from Hilo.  It is a throwback to the '60's and so are most of the people who live there.  However, if Paolo decides to open the restaurant then it is worth the drive.  He is a real "Tuscan" and with freshly made pasta every day (pasta fresca) he creates some culinary delights.

My dinner began with an excellent Cippino filled with tender seafood and al dente vegetables served in a rich fish stock broth.  The fish was firm and rich.  The clams were succulent.  The squid was tender.  The serving was enormous and would have been a meal, but I was determined to have "pasta fresca".  However, I must admit to consuming each drop of the soup's savory broth.

I selected a spectacular "ink-squid" linguine style pasta with a puttenesca sauce.  The sauce was perfectly spiced and the pasta was cooked to perfection.  I would roll a bit of the tender pasta on the front of my fork and then I would scoop a good sized portion of the sauce on the rear of the fork.  The combination of texture and spice made a perfect tasting with each bite.  I was a happy camper as I rolled out of Paolo's for my drive back to Hilo.  This is a place I hope to visit more often...it's been 10 years.

Pahui'a at the Four Seasons

The setting was just a bit more than spectacular.  Our table overlooked a lush green lawn which gave way to the surf rolling onto the lava.  The area leading to the ocean was lighted with spot lights so that one's eye could follow the lush green into the frothy white surf and then into the black that was the ocean at night.  The sense was very soothing.

Although this is not a place to frequent, given the ambiance and the excellent service, it is a great place to treat oneself.  The dinner was both good and interesting, maybe even innovative.  My appetiser was a Dungeness Crab Won Ton with a very nicely spiced Red Curry Coconut Sauce.  It was a good beginning.  Next came the Hot & Sour Soup, which included fresh Keahole Shrimp, delicious Pepeiao Mushrooms and Egg Noodles in a nicely spiced broth.  This course was very tasty.

My entree was a very delicious Oyster Marinated Trip-Tip with Crispy Tapioca encrusted Keahole Oysters accompanied by Choy Sum, Kabocha Pumpkin, and Tsukemono Remoulade.  The meat was perfectly done and the encrusted oysters were simply delicious.  This was an excellent serving and was perfect with the wine we had chosen, which was a 2007 Domaine Drouhin Laurene.

This was an memorable dining evening but one could hardly say that it was worth the rather exorbitant price we paid.  There was not value here but, as I said, it is worth an occasional visit.

Deliciousness

It may not be a word but it describes perfectly my feelings after being served the dish I am about to revisit in my mind and my salivary glands.  I have had Gnocchi at this, my favorite local restaurant, many time but this visit was very special.  I'd finished my appetiser of Saint Andre Cheese topped with a dried Black Mission Fig, accompanied by a couple of toasted almonds and placed on a piece of thinly sliced Crostini.  I sat with my glass of Pinot and waited patiently.  When the dish arrived the aroma caused my hand to immediately move to my spoon.  Yes, I eat this with a spoon so that I don't miss one drop of the sauce.  With my weapon at the ready I dove in.  My first bite was a piece of Gnocchi covered with Sherry Cream Sauce and accompanied by a piece of Pattipan Squash.  I held it in my mouth for a few moments before I began to chew very slowly.  I can taste it now.  I can feel the textures.  The second bite contained a piece of perfectly Braised Ulu (breadfruit for the uninitiated) paired with a piece of Hamakua Mushroom.  The crisp Ulu with the soft Mushroom cupped in the creamy sauce was just beyond words.  And so in went until each morsel was consumed.  A bite with the smooth, creamy Gnocchi and the crisp Ulu was especially memorable.  I combined the dish's contents, which include handmade Gnocchi, Hamakua Mushrooms, Hawaiian Pumpkin (crispy on the outside and buttery on the inside), Pattipan Squash, Zephyer Squash, braised Ulu, oven-roasted New Potatoes, Sugar Snap Peas all in a Sherry Cream Sauce and garnished with fresh Parmesan, to construct many savory bite with varied tastes and textures.  It was truly an outstanding dish.