Thoughts on Sorrento, Amalfi, Capri

My entry into Sorrento was memorable for the city is couched in a very beautiful place.  The old city of Sorrento was very nice, much like many other cities in Italy, but distinguished by its place overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.  However, as a result of the wondrous environment, this city might be a bit more crowded with tourists than most in Italy.  The surrounding expanse was similar to most every city in the world, overgrown, overcrowded and noisy.

The food in Sorrento was very good and will be discussed with each restaurant.  Dinner at the only Michelin starred restaurant (Il Buco) was very nice but the only place I revisited was L'Antico Trattoria. 

Driving the Amalfi Coast was astounding.  The coastline was so beautiful.  Trying to look at the steep marble cliffs dropping into the deep blue sea made it difficult to negotiate the narrow, curvy roads.  Couple the narrow roads with countless tour buses and one has the potential for serious driving adventure around each bend in the road.  The countryside was, even in late autumn, full and lush and green.  Orchards of olive trees and lemon trees were everywhere.  While the countryside was breathtaking, the villages were, if they were scenic, very overcrowded.  If the villages were not rustic and well maintained, which many were not, then there was no traffic and few tourists.  So, I concluded that taking a quick look at the beautiful spots was sufficient but for a coffee, I'd stop in a poorly kept village.  There were fewer tourist, better service and better coffee in the plain, out-of-the-way cafes.

My trip to Capri Island was, I'm sorry to overuse this word, breathtaking, too.  The ferry ride, while crowded and very noisy due to the utter excitement of the hordes traveling to this unique island, made a lovely cruise along the coast and then out to that most amazing place.  I must admit that I've seen few islands more beautiful.  Once again, the wonder has drawn many people.  They seemed to wander about in groups around the marina and in the city of Capri.  However, in the upper city of Anacapri, the congestion was much less and the overview was spectacular.  I really enjoyed strolling about Anacapri.  My mind was set to determine if this would be a good place for me to write my novel.  However, the tone was a bit off for me, so, despite its beauty, and a quite inspiring beauty I'm sure it would be, I don't believe this will be the place.  Perhaps next year's visit to Sicily will solve that riddle.

My conclusion regarding my week in the Amalfi area was that the time was well spent.  The beauty was memorable, I was very happy that I visited those places but it is not a place to which I will need to return for a few years…and I am not a young man.  So, it's off to the next adventure, Torino and the Salone del Gusto.

Il Buco, Sorrento

I had scouted the restaurant, the only Michelin starred place in town, and it seemed very unpretentious.  As I dressed for dinner I wondered if just a sweater would be correct but, finally, elected to wear a jacket.  As I was ushered into the lower climes of this deceptively beautiful place I was happy to be, at least somewhat, well dressed.

The lower dining area was elegant and subdued.  The service was attentive and friendly.  Before the menu arrive I was served a very large Campari with Prosecco.  Also, a serving of thinly sliced polenta with salumi, spiced tomatoes and dried tomatoes arrived.  I settled into the evening, watching and listening to my fellow diners.  However, in this place they were difficult to listen to because of the stone ceiling.  I relaxed.

The menu arrived as I was about halfway through my Campari.  It was quite large.  I perused.  The waiter watched and then returned.  I asked if I could have the wine list.  When it arrived I again perused.  After a time, my Campari finished, I signaled for the waiter, who had been waiting patiently.  We came to an Italian/American understanding.  We would speak Italian when I was capable and he would switch to his excellent English when I was above my level.  We both smiled and I showed him the wine I wanted, a 1999 La Spinetta Gallina, a Barbaresco.  He agreed that he would serve me those things that the chef was making this evening that matched my wine.  We nodded to each other, shook hands,he turned and was off.  I sat back.

I would not labor over the extensive details of this fine repast, for there were many servings.  There were Prawns and Calamari and Tuna and Lamb and Sea Bass.  Each serving was unique in taste and texture.  Each was beautifully presented.  Each serving was not presented until it was clear that I was prepared for that portion of the meal.  Each serving matched the soft, delicate wine very nicely.

However, there was one portion that has been frozen in my memory.  The Risotto with herbs, cubes of encrusted tuna, black truffles and a dollop of outstanding but very light ricotta cheese.  The risotto was tender and sweet.  The tuna,encrusted with caraway seeds, was firm on the outside but moist and tender on the inside.  I tried several combinations before I arrived at the one I enjoyed most.  That tasting involved cutting a small piece of tuna and combining it with a bit of black truffle.  I would allow that to rest in my mouth for a moment, until the truffle began to dissolve.  I would closely follow that with a fork full of the deeply rich risotto swirled in the light ricotta cheese.  A sip of the dark fruited wine was a perfect cap to each tasting.  The range of tastes and textures was vast, so vast that I cannot recall a greater range of single tasting.  I was very happy and, in the end, very full.

My dinner finished, I ordered a coffee with grappa.  The waiter took my order but asked if I would come with him.  He took me deeper into the caves and into the kitchen.  He explained that he wanted to introduce me to the people who had prepared my dinner and to the chef.  The chef and I had a nice chat about his combinations and how difficult it was to get the best ingredients.  It was a very nice gesture.  I returned to my coffee with grappa.  I drink it slowly and as I strolled out of this very fine restaurant the chef came again.  We shook hands and agreed to meet again for another dining experience.

Pictures of this meal appeared on Facebook.

Capri and Hawaii

After my afternoon stroll I am relaxing before dinner.  Sitting on the sofa I begin to think about my day yesterday on the Isle of Capri.  It is a truly beautiful place and I begin to think of home.  I recall standing at the very top of the island and looking down at the village of Capri, sprawling around and above the very busy harbor.  I could see Sorrento in the hazy distance.  I moved to the other side of the mountain peak to consider the upper village of Anacapri spread about what appeared to be a mountain plateau.  Those two places looked like the only that would be suitable to make a village.  The remainder of the island was a series of stone plates jutting about in different directions.  I considered the violence which must have occurred, perhaps millions of years ago, to cause the earth's crust to rise up and form this now breathtaking place.

As I was riding the taxi up to Anacapri from the harbor and, hopefully away from the throngs of visitors, I noticed that much of the flora was just like Hawaii.  This must be a sub-tropical climate.  So, I was already thinking about this place and comparing it to home.  While on the top of Capri I began to consider the great difference in the very shapes of the islands.  In Hawaii, there were no such violent eruptions but just the slow, unforgiving flow of hot lava.  Rising from the same earth's crust that exploded here in Europe, over those same millions of years the inexorable flow of lava gradually formed the enormous mountains of which the Hawaiian Islands are comprised.  My revelation, while new to me, was certainly not new.  However, the two quite disparate beauties gave me pause.  It is interesting to, occasionally, consider the greater scope of "things."  I smiled as I recalled that "the miracle is not walking on water, the miracle is walking on earth."

I shall, of course, generally focus my attentions upon the simple vagaries of my pitiful life.  The "mana" of food and drink will continue to intrigue me, as will the eccentricities of the people I encounter.  However, from time to time my mind wanders to greater heights, but, I digress.

Departing Montepulciano

It was a sunny day but the air was brisk.  A fog hung over the valley below.  I packed the car and returned to the house for a bit of breakfast.  As I drank my coffee and munched on a piece of torte, I chatted with Lorella and her mother.  The men had already departed for work.  We agreed that our time together had been good.  I thought of last night.  Lorella had made a dinner of the dishes she knew I enjoyed.  We ate her excellent food and we laughed.  We drank good wine and we laughed.  We had extra servings of grappa after the dinner and we laughed.  They took me to see the apartment attached to their home that I could use next year.  It was a very nice evening and they were such lovely people, but, now I was leaving.  I hugged the ladies as I had hugged the men last night and I turned to begin my trip south.

As I rounded the city I passed the school.  My time there was very rewarding in many ways.  I thought of the teachers, Sara and Cinzia.  I looked forward to spending time with them each day.  They were so lovely and in such different ways.  Sara had a classic, haughty beauty, yet her eyes and her smile were warm and reassuring.  It was always a pleasure to catch her smile.  Cinzia was an elven beauty.  Her laugh and her smile were alive with an enthusiasm for life.  She had a twinkle in her eye and a spring in her voice.  It was such a pleasure to watch and to learn from them.

I thought of the students I had known.  We developed a camaraderie that, while probably transient, was very nice. It certainly had been a pleasure to share that time with each of them.  There was one to whom that I seemed to have been especially drawn, but that is another story, or, possibly, no story at all.  I had considered sharing the Japanese parable "I know that I have a limited amount of time in this life and I am happy that I have spent a portion of that time with you (them)" with the family and the teachers and some fellow students but elected not to share that thought.  However, that very succinctly reflected my feelings for them.

I drove south along now familiar country roads to the autostrada.  I sped along the autostrada past Orvieto and past the Spoleto turnoff.  I drove well east of Rome and on toward Naples.  Approaching that city the road narrowed from six to four lanes and the traffic increased.  I was required to drive through Naples to get to my destination, Sorrento.  The drive had become rather ugly.  There was much road construction and the part of the city through which I traveled was not pretty.  I was battling traffic and dodging road construction and trying not to miss a turn.  My focus was good as I pounded ahead.  Suddenly, something to the right caught my eye.  I glanced and, to my amazement, casted my eyes on a most beautiful sight.  Past the ugly buildings lay the quite lovely Bay of Naples.  I glanced when I could but traffic required a lot of focus.

Again, suddenly, I entered a series of tunnels.  Upon exiting an especially long portion of tunnel I  faced a formidable wall of stone on one side and the sea on the other.  I rounded a sharp bend in the road and there it was, Sorrento, perched on cliffs high above the sea, basking in the afternoon sun.  It was so beautiful from a distance.  I eventually reached the rather hectic city, fought briefly with her one-way streets and finally arrived at my hotel.  I was greeted, shown my room and I immediately planted myself on the balcony overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Bay of Naples.  My shoulders relaxed and I knew I was going to have a few very nice days.

Weekend near Siena

As a weekend getaway I wanted to spend time in Siena.  However, there were no hotels available in the central city so I elected to stay in a renovated monastery just 5 minutes from the central city.  As I drove to my weekend destination a weariness came over me.  One of my Italian teachers, the quite charming Sara, recommended a small trattoria in the village of Rapolano Terme for a luncheon stop.  It was just off of the autostrada so I ventured over to the only eating place in that small town.  I was late for lunch and I can say that they did not appear pleased to see me, but, they gave me a table and served me an excellent spaghetti with ragu accompanied by a very nice carafe of red wine.  I ate rather quickly but still enjoyed each bite.  Shortly I was on my way to what ended up being my retreat.

Deep in the countryside, overlooking Siena I found this walled enclave that was very charming.  I recalled reading that there was a spa.  Massage was on my mind.  However, no massage times were available.  Maybe a dip in the pool would be good.  However, the pool water, although heated, was quite cold.  So, I retreated to my room, poured a hot bath and prepared myself for dinner.  Also, I recall reading that this was one of the 100 best restaurants in the world.  Sure, I thought.  Every one's got a list.  We'll see.

At the appointed time I waltzed across the stone courtyard and into the anteroom of Ristorante Il Canto.  I was enveloped by elegant yet subtle classical music.  I was greeted by a beautifully charming but stoic staff.  I was escorted to my table in the smaller of two dining rooms.  This room had just four tables.  As it ended up, one table held a quite lovely French couple from Brittany, while another table held a very nice couple from northern California.  The fourth table was vacant.  As the evening progressed I talked with the couples and very much enjoyed their stories.

Almost immediately I was brought a sparkling wine, Malvasis Giorgio 2007,  along with a small serving tray of powdered pumpkin seeds, a slice of grilled onion and a fruit gelatin.  The serving was excellent finger food and the wine was refreshing.  Shortly the wine list was given to me (it was a rather thick book) and the matron of the dining appeared at my table with a very large menu.  She began in Italian but soon switch, first to French because she heard me talk to the French couple, then, finally to English.  I was sorry that I could not understand the Italian.  However, the menu explanation was too complex.  On the menu there must've been 200 items.  However, as I came to understand, while the menu was fixed, the items available changed every day, depending upon what products were available from the countryside.  So, I listened carefully and came up with the dinner that follows.

My wine was a 2004 Santo Stefano Barbaresco.  I love Barbarescos.  However, while the wine decanted, I was served a vegetable consomme with mussels.  The broth was very light but quite rich and the mussels were tender.  The taste was very nice with the refreshing sparkling wine.

Second came a most beautiful serving.  It was a raw egg yoke accompanied by small pieces of bacon, a cereal bread divided into small pieces, capers and a sweet mustard.  The items were presented separately and spread very nicely across the plate.  As I pierced the egg yoke it flowed into the bacon and the bread.  A bite was composed of a piece of soft bacon atop a piece of bread which was then dipped, first into the yoke and then into the sweet mustard.  The taste texture combination was outstanding.  Occasionally I would add a caper, which added a nice salty spice.  I was thinking that this will certainly be the highlight of this meal.  Little did I know what was in store for me.

I did not drink with the prior serving but now it was time to introduce the Barbaresco, which is an excellent, soft wine.  The next serving was a risotto with capers and olives and pine nuts.  Herein rested the most amazing part of this dinner.  My server, the lovely Elena, said that there would be pine nuts in the risotto.  However I saw no pine nuts.  But, two wafers had been placed atop the risotto.  As it turned out, those wafers were made from pine nuts and the wafers dissolved into the very warm risotto. I had never seen such a presentation and was quite awed by the mind that came up with the idea.  The risotto, which was made in water, not broth, was perfectly textured.  The taste combination of the olives and the capers was very nice, especially when combined with the pine nuts.  I lingered over this serving.

Next came a surprise serving.  The dish was a very rich cream of garlic soup covered with a layer of crystallized sugar.  It was a very nice surprise and an excellent taste/texture break from the risotto and leading to the meat course.

The third serving was another beautifully presented combination of perfectly prepared fillets of young deer (capriolo) with pane integrale, a bowl of pepper consommé, pieces of candied quince and pieces of  salted, sauteed porcini mushrooms.  It was a colorful plate.  There was the red of the meat, the orange of the quince and the deep brown of the mushrooms, all encased in the rich aroma of the consommé.  The process of enjoying this serving unfolded like this:  a small piece of meat was dipped into the rich broth, swirled and eaten.  After a moment, a small piece of sweet quince was enjoyed.  Lastly, a small piece of the earthy mushroom with its slightly salty taste was allowed to cap off this portion.  At the very end a sip of wine would prepare the pallet for the next tasting.  It was great fun and so enjoyable.  This meal was lasting a long time for it had been consumed very deliberately.

Now, for the final serving to help in finishing off the wine, there was an excellent selection of cheeses.  I enjoyed the aged sheep cheese, the soft goat cheese and a very nice bleu cheese.  Finally, the wine is finished, the cheeses have been enjoyed and I sipped a coffee.  I sat and reflected in amazement at the quality and surprises in this feast.  This may be one of the best restaurants in the world.  It is certain to me that Chef Paolo has an amazing talent.

I retired to my bed, not rising until midday on Saturday.  I wandered about the grounds and gradually elected to have a do-nothing weekend.  I read.  I studied.  I thought.  I relaxed.  I departed mid-morning on Sunday after a quite large American style breakfast.  The drive back to Montepulciano was slow.  I wandered and was very happy to have had such a relaxing and delicious weekend.

Ristorante La Porta a Montecchiello, Italy

To fully appreciate the total ambiance of dining at this wonderful restaurant, one must travel via the "Strada Bianca" from Montepulciano to Montecchiello.  When one takes this most direct route and when one arrives at this most beautiful small village, the mind is appropriately set to enjoy the atmosphere of this special place.  I cannot tell you exactly why this is true but I have come to believe it.  Also, it is important to arrive early for dinner so that there is sufficient time to stroll about the village.  Perhaps the purpose of the stroll is to settle one's mind and to relax one's body so that a sort of total enjoyment may be realized.

Entry into this rather small restaurant is directly into the dining room.  One is immediately confronted with a sort of controlled enthusiasm.  People chat softly but may laugh heartily as a refection of their enjoyment.  The aromas of Chef Moreno Motterle creations surround each diner.  Each time I have eaten here (this is my third time) I have immediately had the sense that this is a wonderful place to be.  The hostess and owner greets each person.  She is warm and engaging.  Her touch as she guides one to their table is reassuring as one passes among the tables.

Seated on the upper balcony, overlooking the lower dining area, I watched my fellow diners and their enjoyable contact with the staff.  With each table the staff seemed to be old friends.  Soon my menu arrived and the special servings for that evening were explained to me.  For me, for this final dinner here before my departure, I selected items that I had enjoyed previously.  I wanted to confirm my enjoyment and to check the consistency of the Chef.

The wine I selected was a 2006 Brunello Poggio di Sotto.  This wine was soft but rich with dark fruits and great on the tongue.  I was brought a tasty serving of ricotta cheese with a nut butter and local bread.  It was a nice beginning.  My first selection was a Tortino di Funghi con creme di Porcini e Tartufo fresco.  The Tortino was firm on the outside with smooth and rich on the inside.  The Tartufo sauce was unbelievable.  This was one of those "hold each bit in your mouth and let it dissolve" dishes.  Each taste was followed by a sip of wine.  This first serving last for a time.  My memory was correct and I was very happy that it was prepared the same delicious way I had remembered.

Next came the Gnocchi di Patate e Cannellini al Cacio e Pepe.  This, too, was delicate and rich.  The spices were very nice and the cheese was smooth.  Each piece of gnocchi was allowed to simply melt and was followed by another sip of wine.  The texture was similar to the first serving but the spices made this portion a totally different experience.  Again, I allowed this dish to last for quite some time.  Eating two such rich servings is a challenge and one must linger as not to be overwhelmed.

Lastly, the Filletto di Maiale ai Funghi con crema di Pecorino.  The pork was tender and ever so slightly juicy.  The cream sauce was an excellent compliment to the slight licorice taste in the meat.  The owner had warned me about having three such rich dishes but my objective for this meal was set.  However, at the end she was correct.  The richness of this feast could not be sufficiently offset by the dry wine.  I was stuffed.  I reclined in my seat and lingered over a coffee.  I refused a dessert and a grappa.  I was so content with this meal.  What I would've really liked to do was to simply roll into bed but I had my trip back down the "Strada Bianco".  At the end I knew that, each time in Montepulciano would certainly include a trip to La Porta.

A Wonderful Weekend in Firenze

I departed the school as quickly as possible and strode down the hill.  I stopped at Bar del Corso for a piece of pizza to avoid passing out from hunger.  The service was surprisingly fast and the pizza was warm and thick with cheese.  However, I did not dally but soon arrived at the house where I finished packing my bags, loaded the car and motored into the countryside.  The morning had been rainy but the rains had passed.  The air was clear and crisp.  The puffy white clouds rose above the rolling green hills.  The sun shone brightly to highlight the brilliant colors.  The view was breath-taking.  I would occasionally slow to look but I was intent on getting to Firenze.  Soon I left the country roads and was on the Autostrada.  Now I was really on my way.  There was no more attention to the countryside but the focus was on zipping along at 100mph and on avoiding slower traffic.

I arrived in the old central city and wandered about the one-way streets for a bit before the hotel's doorman stepped into the street to ask if I was searching for his hotel.  As a matter of fact, it was his hotel for which I searched.  I had driven past it three times.  Their signage was not too good and, in this case, GPS had its limitations.  No matter.  I gave him my car and was escorted to a lovely room overlooking a small courtyard.  Before long my luggage arrive and I began to settle.  I soon met my companion for the weekend, Dina.  We strolled about the nearby streets, enjoying the views and the people.  We discovered a quaint little shop and purchased snacks for later.  After a time, I returned to the hotel for a shower.

Just before dinner Dina joined me for a bit of wine and our snacks.  As the time for dinner arrived we sauntered down to the hotel restaurant.  The entry to the restaurant was a very nice bar.  We were greeting in the bar and asked if we would like a drink before dinner.  We agreed.  We were escorted into a most grand "Salon di Musica".  We situated ourselves in large leather lounging chairs.  Our aperitifs arrived and we chatted softly under the lovely music floating about this stately room.  The ambiance of this elegant place gave pause to our chatter and we simply basked in the grandeur of the moment.  In my melancholy, I looked at Dina as she closed her eyes to the music.  Her flowing locks and her linen gown draped over long legs caused me to wonder what this moment might have been like twenty years ago, for Dina was many years my junior.  I quickly pushed such thoughts from my mind and allowed myself to simply appreciate this moment.

After a time we were escorted to a fine dinner complimented by a delicious wine.  The dining room was elegant and the service was warm and attentive.  After we had completed our several courses we were, again, escorted to the music room for a cognac.  We lounged and, at least I fell in love with the moment.  The room was so lovely.  The music was so soft.  Dina was so delicious.  For me, it was a perfect combination and I basked in its intensity.  I'm not so certain how often such moments come in a lifetime.  I shall not soon forget these moments.  From that moment on, each time Dina and I met, we met in the Salon di Musica.

The next morning I arose late, no doubt effected by the sizable amount of wine and cognac consumed.  We had a large American breakfast and began a long, relaxed walk about the city.  We visited piazzas crowded with tourists and walked slowly down nearly empty side streets couched in lovely ancient buildings.  I recalled a past visit to this city.  I did not like this place.  This time was different.  I loved each part of this place.  Dina shopped a bit and the shopkeepers were friendly.  There were many tour groups but we avoided them.  It was just a rejuvenating experience for me.  I could live in this place.

In the afternoon we stopped for a sandwich at the "Alle'Antico Vinano" just off of the Palazzo Vecchio.  The cibo, a focaccia panino, was warm, large and delicious.  There was a long queue but we were served quickly and ate sitting along the street.  Munching and watch the tourists was great fun.  Later we made a rather quick trip through the Uffizi Gallery and retreated to relax before another dinner.  I took a long bath and a short, much needed nap.

The dinner for the second evening was quite an event.  The restaurant was Enoteca Pinchiorri.  The dinner was 13 courses accompanied by six wines.  I would detail the dinner but it was simply too complex.  Needless to say, it was quite a "degustatzione."  The restaurant was very nice, our fellow diners were interesting and the service was perfect.  An interesting thing was that our primary server was a young Japanese man (who was surprised when I greeted him in Japanese) and, quite honestly, it was often difficult for me to understand his explanation of each serving in Italian.  But, despite the unclear explanation, the servings were lovely and delicious so, we didn't hesitate nor question but simply enjoyed.  The day had been full of exercise and the dinner was very long.  The full but not hectic day was finished with another very long sleep.

I arose late, again, and we met for a cappuccino and a pasta.  Again we strolled about the city.  We chatted.  We munched a bit.  We drank a bit.  It was a beautifully sunny day and Dina was enticing as she seemed to flow above the street.  It was such a pleasure to spend a weekend in the company of such a lovely young woman.  However, my time here was drawing to a close.  I picked up my car and bags from the hotel, dropped Dina a her B&B and departed this beautiful old city knowing that this will not be my last time in Firenze.

As a cap to this wonder, as I drove down the Autostrada, over the nearby hills I saw an extremely colorful double rainbow.  The top rainbow had seven distinct colors and the bottom rainbow, while more faint, had four colors.  It was a beautiful sight and the perfect finish to a beautiful weekend.  As I drove past the rainbows I reflected for, Dina will be off on her own adventures and I'll be off on mine.  It will be interesting to see if our paths cross again.

A Day In The Life Of...

As I began my day in Montepulciano I thought it might be good to record how each day during these five weeks has unfolded.  I'm an old man and I'm certain I will not remember it correctly over the coming years so, for the historical...or hysterical...record, this is how each day began.

The alarm on my telephone would sound at 7 am.  The alarm sound would be soft at first but would build in volume until I would be required to jump from my warm bed to silence the noise for fear of awakening the entire household.  Each time, immediately after silencing the alarm, I would ponder returning to my warm bed.  However, each time I would turn to fetch the items for my morning shower and, thus, I would begin my day.

After preening myself for the day, I would pack my school items in their bag and descend the stairs to the kitchen.  Often, Adriano would be sitting with his breakfast and would greet me.  I would make my coffee and select one or two biscotti, or perhaps a piece of last night's torta, as my sweets to begin the day.  There would be little chit chat but there was always a sense of bonding.  It was a sort of mano-a-mano thing.  Often I didn't understand his Italian and he certainly didn't understand my English but we understood each other.  It was always a reassuring beginning to the day.

Departing the house, I began the walk up the steep hill to the school.  The walk would take around 20 minutes but the hill was very steep.  I would pass a bar outside of which the same men always sat and talked.  Occasionally they would acknowledge me but not often.  At the first plateau I would encounter hundreds of young students marching to their school just down the hill.  They were brought by bus from the countryside to a main bus station and from that station they would walk a few blocks to their school.  Their chatter and laughing and smiling was always refreshing.  Soon I would arrive at a rotary and, crossing the rotary I would find a seat on the ancient stone wall which formed the approach to the gate that formed the entry in the the old city.  I would always find a seat where the morning sun shown on the wall.  Sitting in the sun, a bit winded from the uphill climb, I would catch my breath and watch the students who lived in the city wander down the hill to school.  They were always in twos and threes.  Their conversation was always quite lively.  I enjoyed that time on the wall.

After a few minutes I would rise to complete the remainder of my journey up the hill to my school.  Although there were always a few administrative people at the school, I was generally the first student. We would exchange greeting and I would retreat to my classroom where I would check e-mail, spread my school materials out for the day and relax my mind for the coming deluge of foreign materials.  This is the story of how I began each of my school days.  I will leave the after-school portion for later.

Osteria del Vignaiolo

I departed the hotel at what was for me quite an early hour.  I traveled west along rather empty country roads.  Initially I was in dire need of a gas station.  After a time I found a station.  As an aside, it is interesting how the need for gas when traveling can totally dominate one's thoughts.  I paid little attention to the countryside but constantly looked toward the gas gauge.  Anyhow, I was very pleased that I could tell the attendant to fill the gas tank and he understood.  Unconcerned about the gas, I turned my attention to the sunny day and my trip into the deep forests of the foothills.  There were few villages and not that many homes.  After an hour of driving west I rounded a curve and the road suddenly emptied into a beautiful valley.  The terrain changed from deep forest to rolling green hills dotted with villages and vineyards.  There, to the front of me, perched on the side of one of those hills, was the quite beautiful village of Barolo.

Arriving in Barolo, I strolled a bit, then took a coffee.  There were some tourists but not too many.  Most of the tourists seemed to be northern Europeans.  There were a few Americans but not too many.  My time here was pleasing.  I sat at a cafe overlooking the hills and vineyards, sipping my coffee and relaxing in the late morning sun.  Time seemed to pass quickly.  I noticed that it was time for me to take my lunch.  I departed Barolo for the paese of Alessandria, just outside La Morra.  There I found the Osteria.  In a rustic stone building, the inside was very small but the covered terrace overlooking the countryside was perfect for an early afternoon lunch.  As I sat awaiting my menu I noticed my fellow diners.  There were two German men and an Italian man discussing some sort of business deal.  There were four Scandinavian women, probably enjoying a holiday.  They appeared to be a mother and three older daughters.  Their conversation was not too lively but focused, as though they had been traveling together for a bit too long.  A table of Italian men sat behind me and two sets of Italian couples completed the crowd under the canopy.  Two American couples sat in the sunlight.  There was much to observe but I focused on my lunch, for I intended for it to be grand.

My wine would be a 2004 Barolo from La Spinetta, now my favorite vineyard.  It was nicely dry, a bit smokey and full of dark fruit.  As has seemed to be the habit here in the Piemonte, the starter was a very smooth tuna salad, but this time with salmon added.  My first selection was a tartare, Carne Cruda Battuta al Coletto con Porcini sott Olio.  The very high quality meat was nicely presented and the lettuces were fresh and crisp.  Each mouthful was delicious as the meat just seemed to melt away.  A small sip of Spumante set each taste off perfectly.  The Spumante came with the starter but lasted through the antipasto.

Next came the Risotto Carnaroli con Zucca e Taleggio.  The broth was rich and smooth.  The rice was perfectly done.  The seasoning was excellent.  Now wine began to follow each tasting.  I basked in the glory of the risotto for a long time for it was so rich and so smooth.

The second was Scamone di Vitello Scottato con Pane alle Erbette Aromatiche.  The vegetables were firm and had very nice taste but the scalloped potatoes were simply delicious.  The meat was tender and well spiced.  A small piece of meat combined with a small piece of potato followed by a sip of wine was a perfect tasting.  Again, I languished over this serving.  Lunch was lasting for quite some time.

But, with this last taste, it was finished.  The Osteria was nearly empty as I sipped my coffee and munched on the tray of sweets they brought me.  I sat back for a moment and thought of my long drive back to the hotel.  Possibly I would take a faster route.  I smiled and was off, across the strada, into the car and off down the road.  One day I will come here again.

Ristorante Violetta

The early evening drive through the country was relaxing and beautiful.  The rolling hills topped by the setting sun were magical.  I passed through a small village and turned down a country lane.  I looked closely but could not see a sign for the restaurant. I drove a bit further and then turned back.  It must be nearby.  Suddenly I saw a small parking area.  I turned in and parked.  The place that looked like a simple farm house.  There was no one about.  I waited in the car until another vehicle entered.  A couple got out of their car and entered the building.  I soon followed them in and was greeted by a lovely older woman.  She spoke no English but we figured out who I was and she escorted me to a table.  At this point it was only me and the aforementioned couple for dinner.  That would soon change as two other couples and a large group of Germans arrived for dinner.

For this evening my fellow diners were very interesting.  I chatted briefly with an English couple, the original couple, and discovered that they owned a home near the restaurant, spending half of their time in Italy.  Across the room was a middle aged Italian couple involved in an intense conversation about something that seemed very important to them.  Next to them was a young Italian couple who seemed deeply in love.  The warmth of their smiles and the tenderness of their touches was so nice to see.  However, next to me was the most amazing couple.  They must have been in their 80's.  Listening to them order dinner was a joy.  Hearing their chat, even though I didn't have a clue what they were saying, was very entertaining.  Finally, after we had all finished our meals, we made an attempt to communicate.  For some reason they had become interested in me.  It was just fun.  The only interesting things about the large group of Germans were their body paintings and the fact that several times during dinner a few of them would go outside to smoke.

My dinner was quite an experience, too.  This was a small, family owned and run restaurant.  The atmosphere was very homey.  The owners, the older woman who greeted me and her husband, provided excellent service.  The chef, a rather large, older woman, must have been a relative judging from their interaction.  While finding this place was a small challenge, the greater challenge was that the menu was verbal.  The lovely older woman came to me and began to tell me the items available for dinner.  I listened closely and when I heard something I recognized I order that item.  It all worked out and was delightful.  During the menu presentation I noticed that the older couple next to me had taken an interest in my predicament.  Several times they smiled at me as a strained to figure out what I was having for dinner.

The wine I selected was easy.  It was a 2003 La Spinetta Vigneto Barbaresco "Starderi".  Dinner began with an antipasto that was essentially an open faced ham sandwich.  The prosciutto was fresh and excellent.  The turkey was freshly roasted and nicely spiced.  The veggies were al dente.  The mustard was very nice.  Each bit was composed of a bit of each item and was a great start to my dinner.  The part I recognized in the menu delivery was the word for ham.  I didn't touch the wine with the antipasto but allowed it to sit and breath.

The first course was a stuffed Agnolotti that was mouthwatering.  Here I recognized the word for garlic.  Now I began to sip the wine.  The pasta was stuffed with sage, garlic, meat and covered with a delicious, seasoned olive oil.  The pasta was petite and the stuffing was very nicely spiced.  A single piece of pasta left to dissolve in my mouth to be followed by a sip of wine was full of wonderful sensations.  This course lasted for quite some time.

As for what was to come next, I was not certain.  I didn't understand the ingredients.  As she was repeating the selections for the second time I simply motioned for the second choice.  As it turned out, it was my great fortune to have tripe.  I love being lucky.  I love tripe.  It was prepared Piemontese style in the most delicious broth and accompanied by nicely spiced sausages.  The dish was really quite ugly but excellent for my final course.  A piece of tripe accompanied by a bit of sausage washed down with a sip of wine was perfect.  It may have been better than the tripe I had in Paris.

After nearly three hours of eating and watching and listening I departed this lovely experience.  The couple came to shake my hand as I left.  We all smiled and were very happy.  The drive home was languid.  My bed was very welcome.

Settling In

My third week of studying Italian has been complete and the time has been very rewarding.  During the second week one student departed and was replaced by another.  The class size of eight remained the same but became quite different in tone.  The change in dynamic was very interesting.  The departing student was a quiet, unassuming man from Utah.  The new student was an outspoken man from Louisiana.  Reflecting upon the difference it gives me a smile and I shake my head.

During the second week I attended a cooking class at the Cantina Gattavecchi.  There were nine of us, lead by the chef, Lillian, in a rather small kitchen.  Lillian, a Brazilian, was quite an actress.  She was outspoken, emotional and very animated.  All of us were directed to perform different jobs as we made fresh pasta (there was flour everywhere) with an amazing mushroom, tomato, garlic, red wine and heavy cream sauce.  Our second was a pork roast stuffed with seasoned sausage.  Our contorni was roasted potatoes.  The dinner was surprisingly tasty given the number of hands involved in the making. It was simply an outstanding experience.  Picture nine people plus the chef plus the dishwasher pushing and shoving their way around a space that would be comfortable for two or three.  All were drinking wine and laughing while they spread the flour or rolled and sliced the pasta or pounded the pork or massaged the spices into the sausage or sliced and oiled the potatoes.  For me, however, there was a sadness here for, as I stood for a moment in a back corner of the kitchen, separating myself from the crowd, my thoughts turned to the one person who would have loved this so very much.  I must admit that a tear came to my eye but I quickly brushed it away, hoping that no one noticed.  I stood back for a moment longer and then jumped back into the madness.

Also, during the second week there were many lunches with fellow student and many dinners with the family.  It was a whirlwind of activity.  It became quite exhausting so, as reported in another piece, after a Friday gathering to say goodbye to departing students, I retreated to Norcia for some quiet time away, "far from the maddening crowd."

The third week began with a largely new class.  The level of the new students was higher than the students who remained from the prior two weeks.  The man from Louisiana, an Australian man, a young woman from New York and I remained.  We were all about the same level.  We were joined by another woman from New York, a Canadian man, an Australian woman and a woman from Norway.  All of the new classmates spoke and understood Italian better than those who remained.  The level of instruction accelerated.  My weariness returned quickly.  Also, the student lunch and dinner gatherings increased.  More of my time was spent eating and drinking and less time was spent studying.  So, as the level of study increased my effort decreased, adding substantially to my weariness.  Another weekend away would be necessary.

During the third week there was a nice trip to Pienza and a trip to Cortona, which included a tour of an ancient monastery.  However, the energy of my fellow students, at least the ones who had been in school for three weeks, began to dwindle.  At the end of the third week the vast majority of the fellow students departed for various and sundry places.  For me, weariness of both the intensity of the learning and the intensity of the interaction with others caused me to make a quick escape from the school on Friday.  I was off for a weekend at a spa just outside of Siena.  Along the way I stopped for a very nice lunch at the only trattoria in Rapolano Terme...spaghetti with ragu sauce and a mezzo of wine.

Until next time ciao a tutti.

Some Time Away.

I am very fond of my Italian family.  However, after living either with one other person or alone for so many years, it is not so easy to adapt to a "family" lifestyle.  Therefore, I decided to spend some weekends traveling around Italy.

After helping a fellow student, Alexis, change apartments, I departed the friendly confines of Montepulciano, motored across the Tuscan countryside and into Umbria.  I skirted the large city of Perugia then ascended into the mountains of eastern Umbria.  Moving along roads chiseled into the mountainside, I marveled at the simply beauty of both the villages and the country.  After a time I arrived at my destination, the small city of Norcia.

Norcia is a very nice place and, while drive about the center city, I remembered its beauty and was pleased that I had returned here.  Apparently I had arrived during a festival, for there were bright decoration and many officials meandering about the main piazza, the Palazzo Seneca.  I found my hotel, checked in and was escorted to a lovely lunch.

The lunch at Ristorante Granaro del Monte was al fresco and I was surrounded by a very dynamic group of Italian diners.  It was great fun to watch their animation and listen to the music of their language.  My lunch was a toast with black truffle spread followed by risotto with lentils and finished with a bit of wild boar in a delicious sauce.  Admittedly, I was hungry after my drive.

As is my habit, I returned to my room for a nap and some quiet time.  Arising refreshed, I went for an early evening stroll about the old city.  It was excellent.  The piazza and the streets leading to the piazza were filled with Italian families.  They were so much fun to watch.  The children playing.  The families smiling and greeting each other with kisses.  It seemed the perfect part of small city life.

Later, on the advise of the hotel, I attended vespers at the Church of Saint Benedict, which is the primary church of Norcia and is on the main piazza.  I ascended into the lower chambers of the church, sitting on an ancient wooden bench to listen to the Gregorian chanting of the monk's evening prayers.  The sounds that came from those dozen monks was very soothing and the small, stone chamber had perfect acoustics.  I was surprised at my enjoyment.

Departing in silence, I walked again across the piazza to the hotel and an amazing dinner at Ristorante Vespasia.  The restaurant was rather elegant with very soft colors and modern art adorning the walls.  There was live music that was a bit loud but that could not distract me from my goal of fine dining.  As has often been the case, I was brought a Spumanti and a small taster, which was a small piece of roasted pidgeon in a delicious sauce.  The menu and wine list were delivered.  I selected a 2005 La Spinetta "Starderi" Barbaresco, which I knew from my time in Piemonte was excellent.

First came "Uovo di Fattoria al Tartufo Nero di Norcia."  The fresh farm eggs were soft boiled and covered with black truffle sprinkles.  This serving was so wonderful!  The taste and texture combination was perfect.  The soft egg combined with the firm, rich truffle followed by a sip of wine made, at least for me, a exceptional dining experience.

Next came the "Agnello dei Roveja di Sibillini alle erbe dell'orto cotto allo spiedo souffle alle lenticchie di Castelluccio di Norcia, LGP".  The tender lamb was encrusted in crisp skin, making each taste an excellent combination of textures, too.  The lentil souffle was rich and simply outstanding.  It was beautifully presented and finished off an excellent dinner.  After an espresso I was off to bed for a long sleep to prepare myself for the drive back to Montepulciano.

As an aside, I awoke during the night, thanks to the coffee, and wandered over to the balcony of my room.  It was great luck for outside the full moon glowed above the mountains.  It was the finish to a beautiful night.  So, back to bed and to sleep, perchance to dream.

My School, My Family, My Italian Life.

I departed San Maurizio, dropped down into the valley below, swooped across and charged back into the mountains.  It was Sunday morning and there was little traffic so the drive was easy, if not particularly memorable.  After an hour I entered the autostrada and charged toward Genoa.

Skirting a large city is seldom without incident and I knew, from past experience (I've been lost in Genoa before), that this would be a challenge.  There are many tunnels, so the GPS does not always function that well.  There are many intersecting autostradas and a missed turn can send one far out of the way.  However, with great focus and a modicum of luck, I ended up on the far side of the city without becoming lost.  I was mentally exhausted but very happy to have escaped unscathed.  I thought a bit about the energy it took to navigate such a hectic environment but then began to relax.  The day was beautifully sunny and the Ligurian Sea was majestic against the mountainous shoreline.

As I drove toward Florence I began to consider where I was headed.  Entering a school to study a new language, having not studied in any school for many years, might have been a silly thing to do.  But, for the next five weeks that would be my lot in life.  And then there was the matter of a man who had become familiar with living alone over the past couple of years, moving into the home of a family.  The family was not just a family but it would be an Italian family that spoke no English.  I became a bit nervous.  My stomach tightened at the thought of the potential complications awaiting me at my destination, Montepulciano.

With the mountains behind me, the drive through the Tuscan hills was soothing but I could not get the tension of the unknown far from my mind.  I made a couple of stops along the way only to encounter bus loads of tourists from all around the world.  It was not a pretty sight.  I charged on.  Finally, after six hours of travel I arrived in my city.  I could not find the family's home so I went to the school, which was difficult to find, too.  I got to the school and, fortunately, it was open.  The school found the family, the family came to take me home and it all worked out...much to my joy and amazement.

I have been here for one week and I have become settled.  The school has been great fun despite being quite a bit of work.  My classmates, an Austrian woman, an Australian man, a woman from Texas, a young woman from London, a young woman from New York City and a man from Utah have been very nice.  We're all beginning level students.  The teachers are two very charming Italian women, Sara and Cinzia.  In the class we speak little English (a rule fairly well enforced by the instructors).  Actually, the teachers might not speak much English.  Explanations are often quite colorful and dynamic.

The family, a middle-aged couple, their 31-year old son and the mother of the wife, are exceptionally gracious.  They speak no English, so our time together is often quite interesting.  However, they help me, they correct me and they are all just so very, very nice.  I have breakfast (a coffee and a biscuit) and dinner (the wife is an excellent cook) with them most days.  We try to communicate with each other and it is improving but would be hilarious to any observer.

My week days are pretty much the same.  I arise at 7a, shower and have my coffee.  I depart for my walk to school (a 30 minute, uphill walk) at around 8a.  School begins at 8.45a, there is a 30 minute break at 10.15a (for a snack), another 15 minute break for a coffee and then the classes end at 1.15p.  By the end of school my mind has been very tired from trying to speak in Italian.  Generally, I have had lunch with a few of my English speaking classmates,which has lasted for a couple of hours.

Often there have been activities organized by the school that began in the late afternoon.  So far I have participated in a wine tasting (a degustazione), a trip to an organic farm (una azienda biologica), and an excursion to a monastery accompanied with a tour of the nearby city of Montalcino.  Next week I am scheduled to have a cooking class and attend a conference on Leonardo Di Vinci.  I'll let you know about the cooking class.

Dinner has always been at 8p and I have been studying by 9.30p.  I have tried to get to bed by 11p but that hasn't always worked out.  At the end of each day I am very mentally tired and am happy for alone time in my room.  Thus far, my adventure has exceeded my expectations and, despite the exhaustion, have been very happy.  Until next time, ciao.

What Happened the First Week?

My first week was spent in the Piemonte region, which is in the northwestern part of Italy.  I flew to Nice, France and drove to the place I had arranged to stay, which was just above Santo Stefano Belbo.

The drive along and then away from the Ligurian Sea was very scenic but a bit hazy.  Turning into the mountains, the air cleared and the drive was beautiful.  Eventually I descended into an enormous valley that defined the Piemonte (the region is surrounded on three sides (south, west and north) by mountains...only the east side going toward Milan is flat).  After skirting the edge of the valley I turned into the mountain's foothills.  It was those foothills in the southeast that defined the best wine growing area of the region and held the famous villages that I would visit.

The hills were spectacular.  They were cover with either dense forests or rows of vineyards and they were topped with either small villages or large villas.  There were some open field whose grain crop  had been harvested and lay fallow for the upcoming winter but those only added emphasis to the enormous number of vineyards.  I stopped along the roadside to look at the grapes.  They were ripe and they looked ready for harvest.  I assumed from all of the small tractors on the road that the harvest had begun.  It was interesting to be cruising down a country road, speed around a corner only to come up to a little tractor slowly pulling a trailer which had very high sides and which was full of newly harvested grapes.  I became less aggressive in my driving after a close encounter in one such incident.

I settled into my room, walked the property a bit and had a wonderful dinner, which I discussed in another session.  My days here seemed to unfold something like this: a rather large breakfast around 9, a stroll around the gardens, a driving trip into the country, a very light snack, a return to the spa at the hotel, a short nap and a trip away for a late dinner.  At the end it was a bit boring and I was ready to move on.  During my week's day trips I did spend a small amount of time in Alba, a nice, small city, and Asti, a larger and not so nice city, and Torino, because I had to change some money.  However, the vast majority of the week was spent cruising the back country road and enjoying small villages (paese in Italian).  On one day I drove to the east through Santo Stefano and on to Canelli and Calamandrana on one day.  Calamandrana was a very nice little village.

On another day I drove northwest through Valdivilla and Coazzolo, stopping for a walk in Neive, a rather picturesque village with several nice cafes.  In Neive I took a coffee with a pasta and had a grand time watch people.  Having a pasta with morning coffee is not eating pasta but it is having a sweet with one's coffee, usually filled with marmalade.  I took that same drive on another day but extended the trip to include Barbaresco.  That was, by far, my favorite village.  It was quaint, pristine and had terrific, panoramic views.  There were a few tourists but not too many.  This paese might be a terrific place to spend some time, perhaps a perfect place to do some writing because of its quiet, out-of-the-way nature.  I spend a fair amount of the day here and had a very nice lunch.

On another day I drove down Strada Statale 592, turned deeper into the forested hills and came out in the very beautiful and quite touristy small city of Barolo.  It was an excellent drive along remote roads and arriving in such a beautiful place was perfect.  Again, I took a coffee but this time without pasta.  I had a grand luncheon scheduled in the nearby village of Annunziata to be followed by a wine tasting in the next village, La Morra.  I enjoyed my time strolling about Barolo, making a note to come here on a future trip.  Shortly before 1p I drove over to Annunziata.  The osteria was a very quaint place with an excellent terrace overlooking the vineyards.  The lunch, to be covered in another piece, was excellent and I lounged until my wine tasting at 4p.  The tour of the winery was nice but the wine tasting was pretty average.  By now I was ready to relax so I began my drive back to the room, this time taking a more direct and faster route.

However, my favorite day trip focused only on a wine tasting at the vineyard, La Spinetta.  It was explained to me that the hotel would drive me to the vineyard and that the tour would be in Italian.  I agreed with that and I was off for a day of enjoyment.  I had taken a late and somewhat larger breakfast in expectation of drinking a bit of wine.  I was not disappointed.  Upon arrival I was greeted and introduced to three Frenchmen.  They were a large part of the nine people in the tasting.  There were two Swedes, an American couple and their translator to round out the nine tasters.  The Swedes spoke no Italian nor French...the tour leader had agreed to speak both Italian and French...so they just stayed in the back of the tour.  The American stayed close to their translator.  Me?  I stayed with the French.  We had a great time.  After the tour we were taken to a room where a grand table had been prepared with breads and meats and cheese and many wine glasses.  The show, and it was quite a show, began with a tasting of Chardonnay, then Dolcetto, the Barbera D'Asti, then Barbera D'Alba, then Barbaresco, and then Barolo.  The flow was to drink a bit, eat a bit and have some water between wines.  It worked fine until the tour leader decided that we should try some better wines.  So, we had a second and, in some cases, a third round of the Barbera's and Barbaresco's and Barolo's.  At the end of the day I believe that we were all, with the exception of the American but including the tour leader, a bit drunk.  It was great fun making sentences with a few French words and a few Italian words and a few English words.  Who knew who understood what but everyone was smiling and clinking glasses.  It was fortunate for me that I had a driver.  The tasting had lasted for six hours.  I was so happy to get back to my room and stretch out on the bed.

Fortunately, I was scheduled to leave this place after seven days.  A longer stay might have done me in.  Now I am off for Toscana and my role as a student.  That story will, indeed, be different and will begin to unfold soon.

Il Ristorante Guido...the second time.

There were many excellent ristorante not so far from San Maurizio but, I reflected and decided to spend another dinner with Guido and the beautiful Monica, Guido's business partner.  I arrived to a relatively empty ristorante filled with soft music.  I knew that there would soon be many diners so I valued this time of tranquility.  As usual, a nice Spumante along with a tray of tasters was delivered to my table.  Once again I perused the menu and the wine list.  The task was so daunting yet so enjoyable.

For that night the wine would be a 2001 Barolo Conterno Fantino , Sori Ginestra.  As luck would have it this was an unbelievably light, soft wine, which was perfect with my dinner selections.  This wine was more like a Bordeaux or a Pinot Noir than a Barolo.  It is better to be lucky than good regarding wine selection.  The wine was decanted and the first servings of veal tartare and tuna salad were delivered.  They were perfect with the Spumante and allowed my wine to breathe.  Now, for serious culinary enjoyment.

A most unusual serving of Foie Gras was delivered to begin this adventure.  The dish was "Foie Gras fichi Pedro Ximenez gelato.  The rich taste of foie gras followed with the firm, sweet taste of the candied fruit and then the smooth, light texture of the gelato was surprisingly elegant.  A sip of the nicely light wine was an excellent beginning to eat tasting.  The wine, the foie gras and then the sweetness created an excellent beginning to the dinner.

After such tasting variability I rested for a moment.  I watched the ristorante fill.  My fellow diners seemed interesting but I did not have sufficient energy for enjoyment and observation.  Next came the Gnocchi.  It was "Gnocchi Baccala Polvere di Capperi di Salina."  The combination of gnocchi and nicely seasoned meat was very nicely done.  Each taste had a good combination of each, making the taste perfect with the wine.

The Agnolotti followed and was, again, simply delicious but was, this time, served only without sauce. However, this serving has been consistently excellent and is my favorite.

Finally. the "Maialino da Latte Cotto."  This serving of breaded pork was so good.  The breaded was exceptionally well seasoned.  The pork was unbelievably tender.  Holding each bite on my tongue for some time allowed the spices to unfold and fully compliment the tender meat.  Followed by a sip of wine, each taste reminded me of why I visited this ristorante for a second time.

I did not taste a dessert with this meal for the courses were so filling and the wine so perfect, I did not want to allow that taste combination to leave me.  So, Im off to my room for a long sleep and sweet dreams.

Il Cascinale Nuovo di Isola d'Asti

It is interesting how each restaurant is so distinctive.  This eatery was in the country and not so far from a major highway.  The building, surrounded by gardens, appeared to be a relic of the Fascist era architecture.  The stark facade of brick and cement was far from inviting but gave way to a nice dining experience and a fortunate encounter.

The dining area was al fresco and the restaurant accoutrements were as stark as the building.  However, the menu was varied and the wine list was large so, why not?  As is the habit in Italy, I was served a glass of sparkling wine and a tray of delicious tasters.  The service was very attentive and the background music was interesting.

My fellow diners included a table of four men, a Russian, an English speaker of unknown origin and two Italians.  It was obvious they were working out some sort of business as the English speaker relayed details between the Italians and the Russian.  The bits I caught were quite entertaining.  Across from me was a single woman who spoke fluent Italian but, when she was asked by the chef, visited a table of Americans and spoke perfect English.  As it ends up, she was my "fortunate encounter."  Fortunately, the American were behind me and did not enter into this dining experience.

From the wine list I selected a 1999 La Spinetta (I like this vineyard) Vigneto Gallina Barolo di Chinato Cocchi Cappellano.  This was a big wine, very dry and a nicely smokey aroma with a dark berry taste.  I allowed the wine to open as I finished the tasters and enjoyed a ball of fresh mozzarella resting in a small bowl of tomato bisque topped with a fresh basil leaf.  This was very colorful and quite tasty.

Dinner began with a "Carpaccio di Dentice gocce di Profumie Colori del Mediteranee."  This was a thinly sliced white fish highlighted with dollops of basil and red pepper puree and completed with a spritz of citrus.  While my wine did not match but was left to open more fully, this taste was very nice and refreshing.  It was a beautiful presentation for such a delicate dish.

Second came the "Ravioli di Ombrina alla olio extravergino Maurizio Menichetti."  A nicely presented serving, although the top was a bit crusty(i.e., hard) and the sauce was a bit fishy.  However, below the first layer of pasta the dish was soft and elegant.  It was as though the dish had waited under the warmer for too long.  Despite this being a tuna dish the relatively light wine complemented it well.  The dinner was beginning to take shape.

The dinner finale was "Piccione di Cascina Disossato all'uvia nero."  This was a serving that perfectly matched my wine.  It was the first time for me and pigeon.  It was a peasant surprise.  The meat was firm but tender with a pleasant "gamey" taste.  The broth for the sauce was very rich and the roasted potatoes were perfectly done.  As is my habit, a taste for me was put together by cutting a small piece of the meat, covering it with the rich broth and then complementing it with a roasted potato.  After each bite was allowed to dissolve on my tongue I would enjoy a large sip of wine.  I have learned to prolong my enjoyment and to realize the many dimensions of each serving.  Ah!  The joy of eating (and drinking).

I had finished my dinner and was lounging over an espresso when I notice that the woman dining alone was writing in a tablet.  I leaned forward and asked, "Scusi, scrittore?" (excuse me, are you a writer?)  In perfect Boston English she say "yes."  I asked if she would like to join me for an after dinner drink.  She joined me and I discover that she was Kerin O'keefe, a well known wine writer and an expert on Brunello wines.  We had a nice, long talk about food and wine and life.  We established what I hope will be a good connection.  Only time will tell but her writings are interesting and, with good luck, we'll meet again somewhere in Europe.

Well, that's my story and I'm sticking with it.  I had a very nice dinner and a very pleasant encounter.  Until next time.

Ristorante San Marco in Canelli, Italy

It was my initial drive from my hotel down into Santo Stefano Belbo and beyond.  There were thirteen switchback curves on Strada Provinciale 51and I must admit to enjoying the challenge of each one of them.  Reaching the bottom I turned onto Strada Statale 592, heading for Canelli.  I entered the paesini on Viale Risorgimento, then turning onto the lovely tree-lined Via Alba.  Here, amidst the trees in a quiet residential neighborhood, I found this quite small but lovingly appointed Ristorante.

The entry was encased in glass and contained a showcase for the culinary publication of this well-known chef, Mariuccia Roggero Ferrero.  Inside the plain wooden door was a very small, perhaps four tables, dining area.  The tables were nicely adorned with linens and fine china.  I was greeted by a stately man whom I later discovered was the chef's husband, Piercarlo.  He asked if I would like to dine inside or on the roof-top terrace.  I selected the terrace and off we went through the back of the ristorante, up a steep staircase and onto the covered roof-top terrace.  The terrace was more spacious and equally well adorned.

I settled at my table, receiving the evening's menu and the wine list.  As I began to peruse the selections I was served a very nice Spumanti along with a small tasting dish of beautifully presented bite-sized combinations of meats, fishes and veggies.  Each portion was a very interesting taste/texture combination, making an excellent start to this culinary adventure.

I selected my dinner and then my wine for this evening.  The wine I chose was a 2005 La Spinetta Vigneto Starderi Barbaresco di Castagnole Lanze.  For this trip I had decided that I would only drink the wines of the region I was visiting.  I had never had a Barbaresco so, what better time to begin?  The bottle was decanted (caraffa in Italian) and, as it opened up I finished my tastings and began to observe my fellow diners.  As an aside, my selection was fortunate for the wine was perfect with the food.  It was soft, delicate and, after opening up, so easy to drink.  (In Italian, "del vino e cosi morbido e cosi delicato")  Barbarescos may have become my new, favorite wine!

As for my fellow diners, they were all Americans.  Near me was a lovely couple from San Francisco who sat quietly, enjoying their food and wine.  Across the terrace were two couples from New York who were not so quiet and seemed a bit over-demanding.  Observing the New Yorker's interaction with the waiter and Piercarlo, it was obvious that the Italians were very patient.  In the end we all chatted and I made an internet connection with the couple from California (tut e bene!).

As food began to arrive it was time to get serious.  First came the "Peperone Farcito all a Piemontese con Traditionale Vitello Tonnato".  This serving of beautifully prepared and seasoned tuna stuffed into bright red peppers was delicious.  The peppers were firm but sufficiently tender to make each bite quite mouthwatering.  This serving did not match my wine selection so I was given another glass of sparkling wine which was fine.  This was an excellent, light beginning to my dinner.

Next came the "Gnocchi di Patate di Montagna con Salsa Basilico, Fagiolini e Pinoli".  The pasta was tender and the sauce was, well, the sort of sauce that, when you hold it on your tongue for a moment your eyes roll back and you just sit in amazement.  There was just the right amount of basil, the broth was rich, the pine nuts were perfectly done and the small beans were so tender.  I would take a small mouthful, allowing it to rest on my tongue for just a moment and follow that with a sip of wine to fully enhance each experience.  For this, the wine was perfect.

Finally, the "Carre d'Agnello con Salsa al Barbera d'Asti e Tartufu Nero".  Well, I'm not a big fan of what I consider to be the "overrated" truffle.  However, there are times when I have been wrong.  This was one of those times.  This dish was a sight to behold.  The lamb was perfectly done and the sauce was rich and full of truffle bits.  Each taste became a combination of a cube of lamb, dipped into the truffle sauce, topped with a piece of truffle, all complimented with a small piece of roasted potato.  This time each savory bite was followed by not a sip but a mouth full of wine.  The combinations were simply more outstanding than for what I could have hoped.

As I finished I reclined in my chair and smiled.  All of the items were cleared from the table and, to my surprise, more utensils were brought.  Ah! I forgot.  Dolci!  Soon came a cup of espresso and another delicious serving.  This was the Ristorante's famous "Langa Bunet".  There were two large slices of liqueur soaked chocolate cake.  The cake was very rich while being very light.  The liqueur was present but not strong, simply complementing the cake's moistness.  After my large dinner, I was amazed at how ravenously I consumed this serving but it was simply too delicious.

Now, I was finished.  Il Conto, per favore.  Piercarlo brought my check and escorted my down to the entrance where Mariuccia was waiting.  We exchanged pleasantries, she gave me two of her books and I was on my way after a three and a half hour dinner.  As I drove back to the San Maurizio I reflected on this experience and why I love food and wine so much!

Morning Sensations

The morning light in the Piemonte is quite spectacular but does little to dwarf the San Maurizio's glorious breakfast buffet.  The tables are filled with fruits and pastries and meats and cheeses and breads and juices.  I arose early for Europeans and the Grand Salon, festooned with frescos, was empty of people but full of the aromas from this morning feast.  While the air is filled with aromas, the room stood quiet except for the occasional excited chatter of the Italian staff in the adjoining kitchen.

I took a small breakfast of eggs and meats and cheeses.  A coffee and fresh squeezed orange juice(aranciata) were brought to me.  I took a second aranciata and lounged for a time.  After sufficient basking I strolled about the gardens just outside of the Grand Salon.  The morning air was fresh but it was already warming.  A haze from the heat could already be seen in the distance.  I took a seat on a garden bench.  The view overlooked the rolling hills covered with vineyards.  Many of the hills were topped with small villages surrounding church towers.  The vineyards were dotted with villas of varied sizes.  The villas were not the bright Tuscan yellows but were more light yellows and subdued whites.  Many of the villas were accompanied by several large out-buildings to house what must be necessary for tending the vineyards.  All in sight was pristine.

I could've sat here for quite a time but my thoughts of relaxation gave way to exploring.  This morning was an opportunity to visit Alba and a few of its surrounding villages.  So, off I went to see and to learn.

Sono Arrivato!

After what seemed like an eternity of travel I finally sat down to dine at the San Maurizio, my hotel for the next week.  The hotel, formerly a monastery, is a stately property situated in the countryside midway between Alba and Asti in the Piemonte region.  It is a fine location from which to explore this wine rich area but for tonight I shall simply bask in the cuisine of Ristorante Guido.

After a refreshing shower I wandered down the three flights of stone steps to the ancient stone wine cellar that houses the Ristorante.  The curved stone ceilings form a majestic framework for the very nicely appointed eatery.  The head waiter quietly appeared at my table side.  He inquired whether I would prefer Italian or English menu.  I gambled on Italian and he smiled.  Shortly after he moved away a quite beautiful young woman appeared with a glass of sparkling wine and a tray of fresh breads.

I sat for a bit, sipping the wine and observing my fellow diners.  The most interesting was two elderly Italian couples directly across from my table.  They were, as one might expect, animated in their discourse.  However, from time to time, the conversation grew hushed as the two women would lean their heads together and the men would grow quiet.  It was very interesting to watch.

My attention was soon drawn away from them as the sommelier brought the wine list.  The list was comprised of four books, a small book for wines by the glass, two medium sized books with offerings from France and the other wine regions of Italy, and a 150 page book with the wine offerings from this region, the Piemonte.  He sat the books on the table.  I looked at the books.  I looked up at him.  He smiled, said something in Italian, turned and walked away.  I quickly decided to only drink bottles of wine from this region, thus discarding three books, leaving me with but 150 pages to peruse.

After some time the waiter appeared, I selected my dinner and asked for the sommelier's assistance.  We came up with a Borgogno 1997 Barolo Classico Riserva.  The wine ended up being a nicely soft but firm wine with good fruit and smokey overtones.  It was decanted table side as the serving of my meal began.  First was a very delicate steak tartare in a very smooth olive oil accompanied by fresh tuna blended with al dente veggies.  Both of these were nicely complimented by the sparkling wine, which I continued to drink while the Barolo opened up.

Second came a serving of eggplant soufflé over a tomato bisque.  This combination was perfectly complimented by small slices of freshly baked onion bread.  With this serving I began to drink the Barolo and they fit together very well.

Next came a house specialty, Agnolotti pasta, freshly made and very fine, stuffed with finely chopped fresh veggies strongly enhanced with a blend of wild rabbit, pork and veal.  The serving came it two portions, one served in a richly delicious broth from the three meats and the other sans broth.  I was instructed that this was to be eaten with the fingers and not a fork.  My wine glass was filled and I was left to enjoy.  My first selection was a piece with the broth.  I placed it on my tongue, not chewing, allowing it to dissolve in my mouth.  It was so good.  My shoulders slumped and I sat back in my chair.  As the piece was totally dissolved I raised my hand, grasped my wine glass and took a small sip.  If there is a culinary heaven the person that fabricated this will certainly go there.  For what seemed like an eternity I went through this process of allowing each piece to dissolve and following it with a bit of wine.  I alternated the with-broth and without broth pieces.  I enjoyed them equally and the wine was simply a perfect complement to each mouthwatering bite.  I thought that I was spent and I was until the next course arrived.

Fourth was the risotto with porcini mushrooms.  The broth was equally rich and the rice was perfectly done.  The distinctive porcini taste was, again, excellent with the firm Barolo.  The focaccia bread brought to recover every last bit of the broth was tender and warm.  If it hadn't been for the Agnolotti this would've been the best portion of the meal.

Lastly came the main entree of wild goat served with caramelised fig and roasted mushrooms.  The fig was a honey style fig and its soft, sweet taste was a perfect compliment to the strong goat meat.  The mushrooms were firm and rich, allowing me to enjoy them without the addition of another texture.  The goat meat was a bit sinuey, if that's a word, but moist and flavorful.  The goat skin was crisp and very flavorful.  A bit of skin with a bit of fig was a truly wonderful taste and texture sensation.  A bit of firm mushroom with a bit of moist goat meat was an equally delicious gout.

Finally, my plate sufficiently empty, I sat back to relax after such a glorious repast.  I hadn't wanted to consume a bottle of wine but it was so great with the food and I looked over to find the carafe nearly empty. The table was cleared and a tray of sweets was placed just off to the side of the table.  I regarded the tray but could not bring myself to take one bite.  I made a signal to the waiter, asking him to charge my room.  He nodded and I was off to bed, very content with my premier meal for this Italian vacation.  I wonder if I wobbled?

Arriving in Europe

After a very nice, long, deep sleep I hustled over to JFK to catch my Iberia flight.  I didn't know Iberia Airlines but, in general, have good expectations for flights on foreign carriers.  I was not disappointed.  Although my ability to communicate (I speak no Spanish...Lo siento, pero yo no hablo Espanol...except, "I am sorry but I don't speak Spanish") was severely limited I received many smiles, very good food, nice wine and my seat converted into a flat bed.  For what more could one ask?

We arrived early in Madrid which gave me plenty of time to get through customs and giving me some time to enjoy the beauty of the Madrid airport.  The undulating roof was beautiful and the people with whom I interacted in Madrid were extremely friendly.  Maybe the beauty of the people enhanced my opinion of the airport.

This travel day would encompass four travel legs, the second leg taking me to Barcelona.  Maybe I was a bit worn out from the JFK-Madrid flight but the short flight to Barcelona just seemed odd.  It made me somewhat uncomfortable and I began to think about my luggage.  Airlines have lost my luggage on each of the last three trips.  On this trip these two airlines, American and Iberia, have had three opportunities to do the same.  There was a plane change in Los Angeles, in New York and in Madrid, so I'm beginning to estimate the odds of seeing my luggage in Barcelona.  Given my feeling about this flight and this crew I'm thinking the odds are pretty low.  However, wonders will never cease.  My bags arrived, I passed through customs (again) and searched for my next flight (Barcelona to Zurich) on Swissair.

The search for Swissair in the Barcelona airport was an unbelievable experience couched in the misunderstanding of the difference between Terminal C and Concourse C.  My misunderstanding of that distinction allowed me to drag my luggage for long distances until I eventually discovered the error of my ways.  I walked the length and breadth of that large airport (I must've needed the exercise), finally arriving at the correct spot.

Although it was probably a result of my misadventure, I cannot say I cared much for the airport in Barcelona nor the friendliness of it people.  Couple that with the fact that I had been traveling for 14 hours and it a wonder that I didn't go postal.

So, I'm ready to leave this place, but, that becomes complicated by the ultra-efficient Swissair, which can't seem to find a plane to take us to Zurich.  Eventually that happens and we have a lovely flight over Switzerland.  Although I've been to Geneva, I can't say I've seen that beautiful country and the afternoon flyover was very nice.  As it happens, I had a rather long layover in Zurich, which is not a beautiful place to spend much time.  Again my flight is delayed by Swissair but I finally arrive in Nice.  After 36 hours of travel I am so happy to jump into a comfortable bed for a long, deep sleep.  The next day I will begin my travels into Italy and, despite the fact that it has taken me nearly three days to arrive at this point, I am happy.

Getting Away

As is my habit, life was a bit harried in the days leading up to my departure.  Settling details, resolving issues and late, unexpected developments always seem to interrupt what I always expect will be a smooth transition from my relatively mundane life to my life of "travel adventure."  But that is all behind me now as I sit in the British Airways lounge in New York, reflecting on leaving home for such an extended time.

The departure is always flooded with mixed feelings.  I sat in the plane looking across the lava tarmac and up at Hualalai Mountain, shrouded in rain, wondering how the most important woman in my life, Pua, would endure my absence.  With good luck the house sitters will treat her much better than I have over the past couple of years.  There has been so much time away and, due to her advanced age, she deserves more attention, not less.  However, the search for something, I know not what, has dominated life and I don't see that ending soon.

The plane leaves my home island and the journey begins.  I am feeling a bit of trepidation about the unknown, a bit of melancholia as I travel alone and a growing amount of excitement as I move down this new path.

One key aspect of all of my adventures exists in the people I meet.  Not being a shy, retiring person, I seek out many and varied social contacts.  In my first flight I sat with a rather nervous lady with darting eyes and in constant body motion.  When she told me that she was born and had always lived in Hawaii I was astonished.  Admittedly, she was a city girl (from Honolulu) but why hadn't her visits to her home in North Kohala settled her?  She was a mystery that there was no time to unravel.

My next flight placed me beside a grandmotherly woman of Filipino extraction.  She was quite elegant and easily shared her stories of life as a travel guide.  She was obviously a strong person and, despite her petite stature, it was evident she quartered no nonsense in the conduct of either her life or her business.  She was, indeed, a joyful person with whom to spend time.  The flight went rapidly and we soon parted ways but she had given me an idea.  What if I were to learn enough Italian or French to become a seasonal travel guide for Americans in those countries?   That's something to think about.

My final flight of the day, from Los Angeles to New York, found me seated next to a rather disinterested California businessman.  Therefore, I spent my time studying Italian until I happened to talk with the flight attendant for my section.  She, her name Terri, was quite friendly and, as we talked further, we discovered that we were staying at the same hotel.  She was nice enough, with the approval of the Captain, to offer me a ride with the crew to the hotel.  The trip with the crew, who were quite chatty, was much faster, saving me an hour or so.  After over ten hours of flying I was very happy for the accelerated arrive into a warm shower and a very comfortable bed.  I slept long and well.

So, after a rejuvenating night, here I am, awaiting my flight to Barcelona.  I am sitting amidst the absolute wonder of international travelers.  My airline is Iberia and the primary language is, of course, Spanish.  Me?  I don't understand a word but they are great fun to watch.  One day I must learn a bit of Spanish, but, that's another project.

Talk to you later.

Whazzup?

The new post today is a test for the posts coming from my upcoming trip to Europe.