Ensemble Mirable presented by Early Music Hawaii

It was a rainy evening, the sort that could easily keep one near the home fires.  However, on this evening I was lured by the promise of delicious chamber music, including my favorite instrument, the harpsichord.  So, I traveled south to the tiny Queen Emma’s Community Center to enjoy the lovely music of the Ensemble Mirable.

I arrived very early, sitting outside the Center watching the comings and goings of what appeared to be the staff.  At first I was uncertain if I had come to the correct place.  Eventually it became evident that I was, indeed, in the correct place as I notice the arriving musicians.  I entered to pay me fee and to select a good seat.

I selected a seat in the center, rear of the semi-circles of seats set around the small stage.  My thought were that the sound might be best a bit further from the stage.  The space had not been constructed with acoustics in mind so any spot was a gamble.  As it ended up the sounds I heard were excellent.  Because I was early I was present when the musicians tuned their instruments and that time verified my choice of seats.  Also, it was interesting to observe the interaction of the musicians during the tuning.  It was evident that politics is everywhere.  Their posturing gave me a smile.

A bit later, as the audience gathered their interaction was interesting, too.  In this small town there appears to be something of a musical elite.  They appear to be of varied skills and knowledge but all levels are kind enough to support each other and it is pleasant to see their joy at being together to show their appreciation of the arts.

As it turned out, this evening was a lovely evening of very nice music performed by musicians that were a joy to watch.  Also, it was very nice that such an intimate environment allowed close observation of both the musicians and the audience.  The program was nicely varied, beginning with the elegantly sonorous piece “Sonata in A Major” by Dietrich Becker composed in 1674, including the excellent display of classic chamber music with the “Sonata III for Two in D Minor” by Johann Rosenmuller, and ending with the lively French Chamber Style piece “Aria Sopra ‘La Bergamasca’ in D Major” by Marco Uccellini.  It total there were eight pieces that did an excellent job of showcasing the range of instruments played by this small group as well as the skills of these very fine musicians.

Regarding the musicians, they were led by Elizabeth Blumenstock playing a Guarneri violin fabricated in the mid-1600’s.  The instrument produced an interesting and distinctive sound.  Baroque violinist Katherine Kyme, baroque guitarist Kevin Cooper, Joanna Blendulf playing the viola da gamba, and, my favorite, harpsichordist Jung Hae Kim, accompanied Elizabeth.  Each musician had an interesting stage presence.  Katherine was a bit somber until the impish flashes of Joanna, who was the evident heart of the group, excited her.  Kevin appeared stoic while Kim, with her ebony skinned elegance, showed her warmth with her sly smiles at interesting times during the performance.  It was enjoyable to watch the interplay.  For me the close observation of the music makers was as enjoyable as their fine music.

An excellent addition to the evening was the explanation of the unique instruments being played.  First, Elizabeth showed surprising vitality in her thorough explanation of her 17^th century instrument.  Her enthusiasm was excellent, as were her anecdotes.  The talk given by Joanna on her truly unique instrument was very informative and entertaining.  Both talks were an excellent addition to the performance.

The Strawberry Patch Restaurant (www.strawberrypatchhawaii.com)

If you want the greatest challenge you open a restaurant in a location where many others have failed.  Your hurdles are a very busy, very noisy highway and an economy that really sucks.  You compound that with a location on a curve with very little signage.  How do you overcome such formidable obstacles?  The answer is really good food.  If you have the staying power the foodies will, eventually, find you.  Such is the case with the Strawberry Patch Restaurant in Kealakekua.

My friend, Gay, and I stopped there the other day for lunch (dinner is served from 5-8p with a slightly expanded menu).  We found parking spots that would not be too difficult to exit, given light traffic.  We entered the restaurant to find a table that was a bit soiled but was in a good location (I mention this because you might experience the same thing and you must not let it put you off).  A cheery, very helpful and attentive server, Stephanie, immediately greeted us.

We decided to share our selections from a nicely varied menu.  There was a small but nice selection of appetizers, salads, sandwiches and pizzas on the standard menu as well as an interesting choice of specials listed on the chalkboard.  Gay selected the Papas Pizza Pie from the standard menu and I selected the Pineapple Chicken Quesadilla from the specials menu.  We had a very nice lunch.

The Papas Pizza Pie from the standard menu was baked on a small, light crust topped with mozzarella cheese then covered with their house white herb sauce, a bevy of fresh garden vegetables, chopped garlic, chopped mushrooms and a light salsa fresca topping.  The light crust, the delicious sauce and the crunchy vegetables produced a very tasty lunch.

The Pineapple Chicken Quesadilla was very good, too.  The serving was fresh pineapple; finely chopped chicken and jack cheese on a grilled tortilla topped with habanera salsa and freshly chopped cilantro with a guacamole and chipolle sour creams side.  Also, there was a side salad.  This serving was perfectly spiced and an excellent combination of textures and tastes.  The salad had a very nice dressing and was beautifully presented but, unfortunately, had lettuce that had been picked too late and, therefore, had a slightly bitter taste.  Most importantly, the quesadilla was excellent.

We finished with a very large slice of cake.  The cake was very sweet and too large for the two of us to finish.  However, despite the noisy traffic, we had a very good lunch and will certainly return to see what owner/chef Amelia Antonucci-Fisher has to offer from her obviously varied culinary areas of expertise.

Returning to Daifukuji

After one month of sleeping in strange beds and 23 hours of “flying home”, it took my body two days to feel somewhat normal.  Finally, on my third day home I returned to the temple.  I maneuvered my pick-up truck into a parking space and looked about for a moment.  The Sangha faithful were gathering for a Sunday service.  I mounted the steps, skirted the main hall and entered through a side door.  The side door let me into the temple office.  Once in that door I came upon a most lovely sight.  Sensei Jiko turned and a warm smile crossed her face.  Her soft voice sent her welcome home as she made a slight gassho.  She moved to me and gave me a gentle hug.  We each smiled warmly and again bowed to each other.  After a short time I departed the office and moved to the main hall.  In the hall there were many smiles of greeting and slight bows.  As was my habit, I took a seat near the rear.  I sat down, then raised my head to cast my eyes upon the alter.  The alter’s golden hues framed by freshly picked flowers and cast in the morning light was breathtaking.  A smile crossed my face.  I looked about the hall, noticing the soft murmur of those gathered.  I thought of the melodious songs and chants to come in the service.  There will be no loud noises but rather the waif of incense.  It was such a peaceful place.  I was so happy to be in its midst.

Weissbrau Huber, Freising

Finally, on the day before my departure, I had a good German lunch.  There was a piece of meat covered with fried onions and thin gravy.  The texture of the meat was such that I could have either eaten it…with lots of chewing…or worn it as a shoe.  Brussel sprouts, green beans and carrots, all of which had been slow cooked for at least a few days, surrounded the meat.  I believe that it is very difficult to cook green beans long enough to make them that limp and to still retain the green color and these were still bright green.  Probably better living through chemistry.  The saving grace for this meal was the rasher of fried potatoes, which were excellent.  It was a big meal and it took me two Weissen Bierres to wash it down.  At the end of this meal I was fat and happy.

Alpenhotel Reiger, Mittenwald

I decided to drive back to Mittenwald for a family style dinner in a family style place.  I felt finished with gourmet dining for a while.  This restaurant fit the bill exactly.  There was no ambiance but it was full of people.  The service was friendly but as hectic as the overall atmosphere of the dining area.  The menu was quite extensive.  As soon as I began to make my choices I realized that I came here way too hungry.

I had a Weisse Beir and while I was waiting for my first selection I literally inhaled the bread.  One nice thing was that two types of seasoned butters arrived with the bread.  Another thing is that my ordering for this meal was a bit confused, as you will see.

First serving was warm smoked duck breast tips on a bed of lettuce with walnut dressing.  It did not seem like it on the menu but this was a salad.  It was a very good salad.  The duck breast was excellent.  The lettuce was very fresh and the dressing was delicious.  The small tomatoes were very good, too.  Each bite was a bit of duck with a bit of lettuce and a bit of tomato swirled in the dressing.  It was really good.

Next serving was, well, a salad.  This was truly a gourmet salad.  The salad was composed of multiple types of very fresh gourmet lettuce and it was something to behold.  The salad was quite large and was literally covered with large prawns.  The prawns, although not fully peeled, were perfectly done and were delicious when dipped in the side garlic butter.  I elected to finish the prawns first and that took some time.  The peeling was messy but the dipping a devouring was perfect.  As soon as the salad was naked I dressed it with the honey mustard dressing and enjoyed every last bite.  I have not had this much green in all of my meals combined during this trip.  It was very good.

Lastly was the rich, unhealthy portion of this mini-feast.  This was sliced Kalbslendchen prepared “Zurich Style” accompanied by several different types of mushrooms, all in a bowl of very rich cream sauce.  On the dinner plate was a very large serving of homemade Berner Rosti.  The meat was tender, the mushrooms were firm and the sauce was just excellent.  I addressed this by placing spoonfuls from the bowl onto the Rosti, which was really a plate full of nicely prepared hash browns and then combining everything in each bite.  This was a classic German dish, the type I was served in my youth.  At the end, and I did finish, I was so full and so content.

It may not be a pretty place but it did serve lovely food.

Cafe Sacher, Innsbruck

This ancient and very elegant café, located in the Imperial Palace, was the perfect place to celebrate an equally ancient German tradition, “Kaffee und Kucken.”  So, there I sat in the early afternoon amidst delicate linens and fine china to enjoy a brief respite from my hectic travel schedule.

For the last 175 years this café has been serving a very rich and very delicious chocolate cake, the “Sacher-Torte”.  As I addressed my serving I proceeded very slowly.  At the side of the cake was a very large dollop of whipped cream.  I would take a small fork full of cake and pass it lightly through the whipped cream, then hold that bite in my mouth for a time to just let it dissolve.  I would place the tiny fork on the side of the plate and take a breath.  If I had been watching myself I believe that I would have detected a slight smile.  It was so good.  The chocolate icing had just a hint of cherry, which further enhanced the smooth flavor.  After every few tastes I would sip the double espresso that accompanied my plate of cake.  I do not know how long I basked in the joy of this tradition on this particular day but I believe that “Kaffee und Kuchen” is a very nice tradition.

At the end of my visit to the Café I strolled outside and commenced my afternoon walk.

Afternoon in Italy and Germany

In Italy they have the outstanding, in my estimation, tradition of taking a gelato during one’s afternoon stroll.  I would always select a “coppette grande solo Crema Come Una Volta”, which was a large cup of a crème-based gelato with just a hint of lemon.  I firmly believe that I could enjoy that every day for the rest of my life.  It was very relaxing to take one’s cup for a stroll.

In Germany they have a tradition, too.  The German tradition is “Kaffee und Kuchen”, which is simply going to a Konditeria or a café to have cake and coffee.  The cakes are luscious and the coffees are, for me, double espressos.  I would have me afternoon snack and then take my stroll to watch others snack.  They are both very nice and very relaxing afternoon traditions.

Alpengasthof Arnspritz, Mittenwald

I searched for the best eating place in western Austria and all signs pointed to Germany, just 30 minutes away.  So, off I go to find and explore Mittenwald, Germany.  As it turns out it was quite a touristy little village tucked away in the scenic mountains of the very southernmost part of Deutschland.

At the beginning of the dinner hour I announced myself at this very nice decorated, quite small dining room attached to a small hotel.  I was greeted by a very petite and very gracious older German lady who escorted me to a table in the corner of the lower eating area.  She apologized that there was no English menu or wine list.  I indicated that was fine and we began our negotiation for my drinks and dinner.  As she departed with my selections I couldn’t help but notice how quiet the place was.  In Italy it would’ve been easy to determine what the other people in the restaurant were discussing, for they are quite demonstrative.  However, my fellow German diners barely made a noise.  They talked very earnestly but in hushed tones.  It was interesting.

This small place had a very large wine selection.  At the advice of the waitperson I received a very nice German red wine, a 2007 Heger Spatburgunder Merdinger Buhl from Baden.  It was a very light, quite dry wine with woody tones.  It matched my dinner very well.

Initially I was served an amusee bouche of a very delicate mango cheese and arugula salad with a light citrus dressing.  It was very tasty.

My first selection was a delicious heavy zuppa containing nicely done shrimp, lightly cooked diced tomatoes, garlic and parsley in a lovely fish-based broth.  There was a nice amount of garlic and the broth was excellent.  This was so good that I soaked up each last bit of broth with the breads they served along with the zuppa.

Lastly, I had their lamb serving.  It was free-range lamb and was done exactly as I would like, rather rare.  It was served on a bed of nicely spiced, maybe even spicy, white beans, squash and diced tomatoes (they must be in season) and surrounded by dollops of mashed potatoes which had been pan fried in butter.  A taste with a bit of lamb and a bit of mashed potato was savory.  A taste with a bit of lamb and a bit of the white beans was equally excellent.  I doted over this dish for a long time.

I finished my excellent dinner with a cup of espresso, climbed into the car and careened my way back down the mountain to my very comfortable featherdecker.

Austria, My Reflections

have spent some time in Salzburg and the nearby countryside.  I have spent some in Vienna and the Vienna Woods.  I have spent some time in Innsbruck and the surrounding countryside.  I think that it is safe to say that I have traveled the length and breadth of the Osterreich.  It is very nice.  There are some very beautiful things.  The people are very nice and the food is good.  However, I believe that it would be accurate to say that one trip through Austria is sufficient, unless I return to Wien to dine at Steirereck.

My Drive Out of Italy into Austria

I was ready to depart Trento and to begin the final leg of my voyage home.  I sped north on the autostrada toward Austria and it might have become a blur, except for the unexpected beauty of the Alto Adige.  The Alto Adige is the now Italian but previously German province that borders Austria.

The area was rich with ancient castles perched on hilltops.  There were terraced hillsides filled with vineyards capped by picturesque chateaux.  There were giant cathedrals surrounded by small villages.  Beauty was everywhere and so as I reached the top of the Brennero to begin my descent into Austria I decided I should capture these thoughts.

The Watermill at Posara

In a picturesque location overlooking an old millstream and in a very rustic, small village, this was an excellent setting for a relaxing, insightful discussion of the vagaries of life.  The facilities were very nice.  The staff was wonderful.  The food prepared on site was excellent.   Run by the beautiful, enigmatic Kerstin, The Watermill was a smoothly functioning retreat from real life.

My initial interest in this seminar may have faded a bit and my enthusiasm for attending was diminished but I can say that the experience was very good for me from several different perspectives.  The event grew on me.

As for my time at Posara, the people were very interesting.  There was the seminar leader, a writer of some renown who was British.  There were four British ladies, a British gentleman, a Danish ex-patriot living in France and me, the American.

Each of the seminar attendees was distinctive and interesting, both individually and in their interaction.  Each brought an interesting slant and perspective to matters being discussed.  Despite not understanding many of their discussions due to language differences, I found their humor, their insight and their unique “persona” very engaging.

The actual subject matter, the successful writing of romantic fiction, was, at least initially, of little interest to me.  However, I will admit that my interest was peaked as the discussions flowed.  The sort of writing being discussed seemed to me to be an exact parallel to issues in my own life and, therefore, caught my attention and growing interest.

As for the leader, Pam (pen name Jessica Hart), she was an intriguing person.  A conflicted woman with more than a few eccentricities, she would, on occasion, reveal her true nature in a lovely smile and heart-felt laugh.  It would be interesting to know her and to see her life.  The bits she revealed were the sorts of things that would be fodder for a delicious novella.  The total package of “Jessica Hart” made the seminar much more interesting.

Ristorante Scrigno Del Duomo, Trento

Set directly on the Piazza del Duomo, this was a quaint and very busy restaurant.  There were several tables directly on the Piazza for diners who wished to be, literally, in the middle of the action.  Inside a small courtyard directly off of the Piazza was an additional dining area for those who wanted a more relaxed experience.  Inside the building was a small seating area and the kitchen.  I selected the courtyard and was very pleased with the ambiance.   The servers were very friendly and seemed to know nearly everyone who entered the courtyard.  It was a very happy place.

The setting was not elegant but comfortable and it was the same for the food, not gourmet but nicely prepared and presented.  A quaint example of their style was that the bread was brought in a small paper sack that was unfolded at the table and left for you to take the bread you wanted.  Quaint?  Tacky?  No matter, the bread was good.

I assume as a single diner, I was not shown a wine list but they had many selections available by the glass.  I had an Amarone della Valpolicella C L Brigaldara from 2007.  It was smooth, very dry and had a strong black currant taste.  It really didn’t match my dinner selections but it was good and I followed it with lots of tasty bread.

My first serving was “Carpaccio di Tonno con Salsa Soya e Zenzero”.  The fish was very nice and the lettuce base was very fresh, making for a very nice taste/texture combination.  This was the first time I had encountered shoyu in Italy and it tasted very good.  Maybe it is a sign that I am ready to head home.

Next came “Baccala alla Vicentina con Polenta e Cappuccio in Insalata”.   Overcoming an initial fishy smell, I found a delicious taste couched in a very rich broth.  The fish sauce covered a very tasty bed of nicely spiced polenta.  The side cabbage garnished with a nice vinaigrette was an excellent taste addition.  A bit of polenta covered with fish sauce and topped with a bit of cabbage was an excellent taste and texture delight.

It this stage I was about finished.  My final selection was the cheese plate with a final glass of wine.  There were five cheeses, each different and each very good.  The waiter explained that I should eat each selection in succession in a clockwise fashion.  That was good advice.  The cheeses began as mild and soft, then firm and strong, then firm and stronger, then mild and sweet, and finally, Gorgonzola.  I was very happy trotting across the Piazza to my bed.

Osteria a "Le Due Spade", Trento

A very small, quite elegant osteria with a rich wood interior, beautiful linens and all caressed by light jazz floating about.  The greeting quite formal and I was directed to a table in the middle of the eight seating that were set for the evening.  It was a good spot for observing the other diners.

The menu was not extensive but the selections were varied.  The wine list was extensive and it took me some time to come to a decision.  After deciding on my dinner selections I requested a 1999 Brunello di Montelcino “Poggio all’Oro” from Banfi.  I had enjoyed the lush red wine before and knew it would be good.

The evening began with a delicious bit of flan on a bed finely sliced cabbage, which had been spritzed with citrus.  It was a very tasty starter.

Next was the “Trilogy ai Funghi con Flan, Strudel e Manzo Marinate ai Porcini”.  The thinly sliced salumis were delicious alone and even better when combined with the mouthwatering porcini wrap.  The strudel was well spiced and had an excellent sauce.  This was one of those servings where I tried each part separately and then began to combine them to expand their tastes.   The first individual tastes were good but the combinations were excellent.  I enjoyed this slowly and was certain to take a sip of wine between each taste to further expand the enjoyment.

The next serving was “Quadrucci di Ricotta di Le Ora Allen wellie (?it just doesn’t look right) nere con Orecchiette ai “Finferfi” e Rombo”.  The pastas were outstanding.  The sauces were rich and delicious.  The textures were varied and each taste was like an explosion of enjoyment.  Here I hesitated many times to make sure that my taste buds would not miss one dimension of each bite.

Lastly, there was “Tagliata di Filleto di Manzo ai Sapori dell’Orto”.  The meat was soft and moist and perfectly seasoned.  The surrounding vegetables were lovely and al dente.  The serving was beautifully presented and very enjoyable to consume.

This had been an excellent dinner capped with a simple espresso accompanied by a plate of sweets.  It is no wonder that Michelin likes this place (1 star).  I had a nice, serene felling as I took the short stroll back to the hotel.

My Drive from Brescia to Trento

I departed Brescia in good order with the intention of avoiding the autostrada for this portion of my drive.  I would take the drive along Lago di Garda in hope of a more relaxing experience.  Well, as luck would have it I made a wrong turn somewhere along the way.  It was not too long before it was obvious that there was no lake about and that I was, instead, heading deep into the mountains.  However, I had a tank full of gas and I was in no hurry.  I decided to see where this road would take me, at least for a while.  The small towns were quaint and the mountains were beautiful.  I was approaching the village of Idro and decided to see where I might proceed from there.  If I went further into the mountains it would be a long drive before I had another opportunity to cross the mountains to the lake.  I decided that Idro would be the best spot to cross to the lake and began my trek across to Gargnano on the lake.  The road from Idro to Gargnano was a very narrow, very winding, very exhilarating road to drive.  In most places the road was wide enough for two cars but not for a truck and a car.  In many places one side of the road was solid rock and the other side was a guardrail to protect from a couple of thousand-foot drop.  Each curve, and there were many, was a mystery.  With that said, I loved the drive.  It was beautiful but I was happy when the roadway widened and I could actually see the scenery.  It took quite a long time to cross those mountains but the drive down to the lake was indeed spectacular.  The drive along the lake toward Trento was crowded and hectic, so I was happy that I had the detour.  I stopped for a nice lunch in Vezzano and then headed for the hotel.

My Travels in Northeastern Italy

My first city was Udine in the Province of Friuli-Venezia Giulia located in northeastern Italy.  The City “Centro” or old city was very nice.  It was a nice combination of majestic old homes, ancient buildings and cobblestone streets lined with modern shopping.  The city center was a beehive of activity.  It was a great people-watching place.  At the center of the old city was a large hill, on top of which was an ancient monastery.  I walked up the steep steps to find an excellent promenade around the buildings that gave an outstanding view of the city below and the surrounding mountains.  This was a very nice city to visit.  I stayed at the Astoria Italia Hotel situated just on the periphery of the area of greatest activity.  The hotel was a nicely refurbished building of the ancient style of the rest of the “Centro”.  I have some very good food here and a very enjoyable time.

My next location was an excellent country Locanda (an Italian B&B) located in the very rustic village of San Pietro in Cerro.  It was a beautiful place managed by a beautiful group of people.  The name is Locanda del Re Guerriero (www.locandareguerriero.it) and it is a place I would highly recommend if you enjoy a very peaceful country setting.  I’ve written apiece describing my first morning there and that will, hopefully, give you a sense of the place.  A nearby osteria, Osteria L’Angolo Nascosto, run by a very nice couple, was a good dinner recommendation.  The restaurant was a part of a lovely country home and the local patrons were a pleasure to be around.  I spent three nights at the Locanda and was sorry to depart.

During my three days at the Locanda I visited Cremona, a medium sized city just 30 minutes away.  In Cremona the “Centro” was not so appealing.  There were many ancient buildings but the local activity was not so great and there were, therefore, not so many opportunities to see what their lives might be like.  The people I did see taking their walks were mostly older, with a few families sprinkled amongst them.  The city was not a place I would revisit.  However, this day presented me with what may well be the best luncheon I have ever had.  I departed Cremona in search of dal Pescatore Santini (www.dalpescatore.com) in the very small village of Runate.  This meal and place are another story.

I visited Mantova, a very nice city located two hours east of the Locanda.  I had an excellent day walking the “Centro” and followed that with a very nice dinner at Osteria Ochina Bianco.  The city was an excellent blend of the new and the ancient.  The city was very active and the people were dynamic, like in Udine and unlike those in Cremona.  This is not necessarily a city I would revisit but I did enjoy this visit very much.

On my way to my writing seminar in Tuscany I stopped for a visit to Piacenza, located just an hour west of the Locanda.  Piacenza was a bit larger city, much more multi-cultural and a very interesting place to visit.  I was fortunate to visit on the day of the local market.  The market was enormous.  There were hordes of people of every size and shape and ethnicity and economic group.  It was so much fun to walk amongst them and to sit and watch them.  This is a city I could definitely revisit.  It had a vibrant “Centro” and an excellent mix of new and ancient.  Regarding the market, despite the fact that it is late in their growing season, it was amazing.  I dallied there for a long time.

Osteria La Grotta, Brescia

This quaint, older restaurant is well away from the center of the city.  During my visit there were only local businessmen and a few older local couples.  The ambiance was very nice and the owners/staff were extremely friendly.

There was a varied menu but I followed the owner’s recommendations.  I was very happy with his selections.  I had a mezzo of the house wine, a full-bodied red, and munched on bread sticks until he delivered my first course.

First was the “Casoncelli al “Bagoss” con Burro e Salvia”.  This ravioli filled with the local “Bagoss” cheese was simply outstanding.  The pasta was fresca.  The cheese was delicious.  The preparation was very delicate and the sauce was very rich.  I spent a long time enjoying the wonderful dish.

Second was “Fiandre di Puledro Marinate in Olio Extra Vergine di Oliva”.  This was a culinary adventure for me.  It was my first time to eat horse or pony.  I like culinary adventure but I was skeptical.  The meat was a very thin slice that had been marinated in olive oil, lightly cooked and dressed with lemon and parsley.  I was very happy to have this adventure.  The meat was very good.  It was tender and, despite being a thin slice, was moist.  I fear I shall never look at a pony in the same way.

Accompanying this serving was a large garden salad comprised of fresh lettuces and vegetables with an excellent, light dressing of garlic infused olive oil.  This was an excellent lunch in a very comfortable setting.  This is a place I hope again to visit.

Ochina Bianca, Mantova

This very nice restaurant, located on a side street away from the city center, was an elegant discovery.  The interior was nicely appointed with a nicely quiet, subdued ambiance.  The staff was very friendly.  The owner, a curmudgeonly fellow, was the waiter.  It was quite a nice experience figuring out what I would have for dinner.

My wine this evening would be a white wine, a Sauvignon from Friuli.  This wine had an excellent, crisp green apple taste and matched my desire for a light dinner.  However, as you shall read, a light dinner was not in the cards.  It will become another evening of over-indulgence.

First was the “Tartare di Tonno, Gamberi, Salome e Orata”.  The salmon tartar was delicious and the local olive oil used to dress the salmon was delicious.  The fresh raw vegetables were al dente and very nice.  It was a large serving.

Second was “Risotto alla Pilota con Pesto di Salsiccia e Puntel”.  This was a relatively dry serving which had been prepared in a rich vegetable broth then enriched with delicious, mild ground sausage and covered with a mild grated cheese.  The seasoning was excellent.  I began this serving as a bit of a skeptic but by the end I was holding each bite for some time to fully enjoy the seasoning and the subdued texture.  This, too, was a large serving and should have been the end of this meal.  That was not to be.

Fortunately, lastly was the “Spaghetti con Tonno Fresco, Olive, Melanzane e Pomodori Pachino”.   The pasta was excellent.  The eggplant was very tasty.  The fish was like a sweet chicken.  Again, the spicing was excellent and the textures allowed each bite to be mouthwatering.  At the end of this very large and extremely delicious meal I wanted to be in my bed at the Locanda.  Unfortunately, I had an hour drive to the bed.  It was good for there was time to settle my system and reflect on this lovely time.

dal Pescatore Santini (www.dalpescatore.com)

I wandered through the country a bit, being a bit lost from time to time.  Suddenly, rounding a turn I saw a sign for the village of Runate.  The sign was small and I just caught it out of the corner of my eye, so I drove past the turn.  When I could I reversed my course and, eventually found my way to the village.  I drove through the handful of houses yielding no signs of life and was out of the village as soon as I entered.  I must’ve missed something.  I again reversed course and this time saw a small sign for the restaurant.  I drove by slowly and still saw no signs of life.  I continued on to a somewhat larger town down the road.  I parked in the city square, unpacked my I-Pad, and sought to verify my luncheon.  Everything seemed correct but I could not exactly recall how I had discovered this particular restaurant.  I packed up my things and headed back to Runate.  This time, as I more slowly entered the village I noticed two blue helicopters with the name of the restaurant on their side.  Interesting.  As I drove up to the small sign for the restaurant I noticed that the wrought iron gate was now open.  I turned into the gravel parking lot.  I parked next to the only other car in the lot, despite the fact that there was plenty of room, gathered myself and strolled up to the door.  I, bedecked in shorts, slippers and a tee shirt, immediately felt completely out of place.  A young man in a tuxedo opened the door.  I entered, smiled a bit awkwardly and was immediately greeted by a most beautiful and very elegant young lady.  I’m thinking, shorts and tee shirt…will they serve me here?  She smiled, asked if I was Mr. Marquis and escorted me to my table.  There were three other tables of diners in the room in which I was seated.  They all took notice of my arrival.

So, I’m now seemingly going to be served in this extremely elegant and all I can do is smile.  This takes me back to my culinary excesses in Paris and Bordeaux.  I would describe the elegance but you might just like to take a look at the website.  I’m recalling how this is such a well-hidden gem.  You’d never wander in here and, looking at the gardens, the restaurant must consume nearly the entire village.

Well, let’s get down to business.  First, the wine list is the size of an ancient text.  The wines are organized by year, not by type of wine.  I select a 2005 Tignanello of P. Antinori.  A couple of asides are in order here.  First, after I had made my dining selections the sommelier came to me and suggested that my wine might not match my first course and would it be permissible for him to bring me a champagne for that serving.  I responded in the affirmative and leaned back.  Where am I?  Secondly, the owner’s son, who happened to be the person overseeing the service at my table, after lunch took me for a tour of both wine cellars…they must have had…I can’t even guess how many bottles of wine and liquor.

I selected the”Menu d’Autunno”, which included eight courses, but the son came to me and asked if he could include a serving of their signature dish, making the entire session nine courses.  How could I deny him?  At this point in the meal it came to me how I had discovered this lovely place.  This is a Relais-Chateau affiliate.  That recollection really makes me happy and I am suddenly much more at ease, tee shirt and all.

The meal was:

Well, I, of course, began with a Campari and soda.

First was a serving was lightly fried Pecorino Romano cheese served with thinly sliced local salumis…excellent.

Second was a Cream of Pumpkin Soup topped with a swirl of olive oil…very rich and perfectly spiced.

Third was (now I shall switch to Italian) Astice in Gelatina di Champagne, Caviale Oscietra Royal, Anguilla in Carpione…a beautiful presentation of lobster, caviar and sturgeon that was both interesting and delicious.

Fourth was the Tortelli di Lucca (Zucca, Amaretti, Mostarda e Parmigiano Regiano)…pasta filled with squash grown in their gardens…pasta was perfectly done and the filling was perfectly spiced…I held each bite in my mouth for a long time.

Fifth was the Risotto (Vialone nano) con pistilli di Zafferano e Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale…a very excellent saffron risotto

Sixth was the Gnocchi di Patate con Pezzogna marinata al sale, capperi, olive e ristretto al cipollotto…this gnocchi with sea bass was bland looking but was rich and al dente…the capers and the leeks and the crisp celery added perfectly to the taste and texture of each bite.

Seventh was the Gallinella in guazzetto con verdre di stagione, peperoncino e Olio Extravergine Toscano…the fish adorned with fresh garden vegetables was presented in a very rich vegetable based broth…the fish was tender, flaky and the broth had just a bit of spice.

Eighth was the Maialino Selezione delle Macchie (Paoplo Parisi) con Pepe di Sechuan e Ananas Caramellato…this small pig hip was very tender…the potatoes were rich…the pineapple was perfectly ripe…the black pepper sauce was excellent…this combination of tastes and textures was the best of the meal…it seems as though each course was just a bit better than the previous…it was “foodie” heaven.

Ninth was the cheese course which presented three local cheeses of varying textures…each was very good.

Lastly was the Passion Fruit Soufflé and it actually tasted like passion fruit from the farm…I was amazed…soft, rich, mouth watering.

Then, really lastly, came the espresso with a plate of fine cakes of various descriptions.

I sat for as moment and rested, caught my breath…really, before Alberto came to take me for a tour of the wine cellars and the gardens.  It was quite a spectacular lunch and quite a memorable total event.  So, I bid my farewell, waddled to the car and briskly motored my way back to the comfort of the Locanda.

One more aside…before I departed I asked to use the gabinette (toilette) and it was unbelievable…virtually bizarre…everything (and I mean everything) was automatic…the artwork was “art deco”…it was more than just a toilet…it was a gallery from the 22^nd Century.

Ristorante Centrale, Cremona

Had an interesting lunch in this well hidden and generally non-descript little restaurant.  My meal was an adventure for me.  First I had “Trippa alla Cremonese” which was a very creamy and tender tripe soup.  When covered with grated cheese to add a bit a flavor it was very good.  Second I had “Funghi Porcini Trifolati” which was mushrooms sautéed in butter.  This was very rich with an excellent sauce that required a bit of bread to finish.  Lastly, there was “Mostada di Cremona” which was candied fruit.  It was very sweet and quite spicy.  The food was interesting and I am happy that I have tried it but I doubt I shall dine here again.

Osteria L'Angolo Nascosto, San Pieto in Cerro

This place, recommended by the Locanda as good and the only place to eat that was reasonably close, was, indeed, a nice Osteria.  The family was very welcoming and, despite not speaking a bit of English, helped me navigate a delicious meal.

Ambiance was very homey and the other diners, all local families, seemed very comfortable here.  My wine tonight would be a local wine, a Terre della Tosa, Burris Io Superiore, La Tosa 2010.  The wine was a blend of 61% Barbera and 39% Bondarda.  It was a crisp red wine and, surprisingly, matched my meal, which was mostly the house specialty of fish.

After a few false starts I convinced the owner that I would like for the Chef, whom he later brought out to introduce to me, to prepare for me the dishes he thought would be best this evening.  I was hoping for the freshest ingredients.  The meal was good, if not particularly fresh, so my strategy worked, in part.

My Antipasti was a large plate filled with fried oysters and clams, steamed shrimp and calamari, and pan-fried river fish (the fresh part).  All were nicely done and tender.  The best was the calamari on a bed of fried potatoes…this was very nicely spiced and very tasty…the firm calamari with the slightly spicy potatoes made for an excellent taste and texture blend.

My “Primi” was very nicely done spaghetti with white fish, eggplant…the pasta was nicely done, the fish was tender and the eggplant was firm making the combination very tasty.  The cheese was the local “Granna” and was excellent.

My “Secondi” was a very nicely cooked and spiced Sea Bream, a fish which appears to be a trout but whose meat is not quite so sweet. 

The cheese serving was, again, Granna but this time with Colerobi, which was supplemented with an excellent Gorgonzola.  With this I had an espresso and rested, watching the other tables enjoy their dinner.  I love listening to the melodic tones of the Italian speech.

My First Morning at Locanda del re Guerriero

I lay awake but with my eyes closed.  The bed was warm and comfortable.  I slowly opened my eyes and regarded the enormous ancient beams crossing the ceiling above.  Now backed by a modern, proper ceiling, I wondered for how many tens or hundreds of years those same beams had been covered by thatch.  I closed my eyes and sought a bit more sleep but it would not come.  The morning light from the open window below the sleeping loft began to light the room.  I rested for a moment, then tossed aside the comforter and swung my legs from the bed.  I arose, walked toward the spiral staircase and began to cautiously make my way down the uneven steps.  At the lower living level I walked to the open window and stood full exposed to the cool morning air.  It was refreshing and invigorating.  I dallied, enjoying the early morning sun crossing the meadow below covered by a glistening dew.  Beyond, a light morning haze floated above the plowed fields, giving them a mystical aura.  It was such a lovely sight.  I thought for a time about the day to come in this new place.  A soft smile crossed my face and I turned to take my coffee.

Ristorante Vitelli d'Oro In Udine, Italy

Exiting the hotel I take a stroll down the Via Paolo Sarpi, a pedestrian street full with people having their evening wine at the many outdoor cafes.  I make a turn at the ancient fish market and enter the lovely garden at the front of the restaurant.  Greeted there, I am quickly seated in the midst of quiet elegance.  Lush woods and fine fabrics line the walls.  Each table has an arrangement of roses atop its lovely linens.

A young waiter arrives, I light up my trusty I-Pad, and we begin the, sometimes, laborious process of composing a dinner.  I began with a 1999 Teresa Raiz Decano, as very dry, full bodied blended wine containing equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.  After looking over the menu I elected the Gran Menu Degustazione, which I figured would be a good sampling of all the good things this restaurant offered.  The one thing that I did not account for was the size of each portion.  Unlike other degustation menus, I found that these portions were quite large and, I must admit, it was not easy to finish this excellent meal.

First came a lovely soup topped with a fish ball and sprinkled with roasted “semi di girasole e zucca” (sunflower and pumpkin seeds), a sort of pine nut.

Second was the Capesante Scottate, Tortino di Bulgar e Salsa Allo Zafferano, which was beautifully presented and very nicely spiced.  The scallops were perfectly done and the Bulgar with herbs and seeds was delicious.

Next came eight different servings of raw Blue Fin Tuna (La Verticale di Tonno), I missed the Italian term, each of which was differently spiced.  The first taste was natural with a bit of sea salt.  The fish was excellent and definitely sashimi grade.  The second was with tiny chunks of ripe avocado.  The third had caviar eggs.  The fourth had small chunks of green and black olives.  The next had capers.  The sixth was mixed with an excellent balsamic reduction sauce, which was to that point my favorite.  The seventh was mixed with a delicious Udinese honey and became my favorite.  The final taste was a mix of tuna and a mysterious tangy sauce and that was definitely my favorite.  So, as the tastes progressed each, in its turn became my favorite.  I could’ve made a meal of just this portion.

Third was the Scaloppa di Ricciola al Pomodoro Fresco, Erbette Rosse e Patate Saltate.  This was beautifully presented, if a bit odd to see.  Fresh mozzarella in a bed of tomato next to a large piece of nicely cooked Amberjack just seemed odd but the taste was very good.  The roasted vegetables were excellent, too.

Fourth was then Spaghetti Estivi Mancini con Gamberi, Regina di San Daniele e Melanzane.  Surprisingly, this serving was cold but it was excellent.  Once again the seafood was perfectly done.  The tastes and textures were excellent.  It was impossible to compose a taste without a different, special sensation.  The eggplant was excellent.

Finally, we seemed to be coming to the finish of the excellent but very heavy dinner.  The waiter brought a large dish of Gelato on a bed of fresh melon and ginger.  It was very light and was exactly what was necessary at this stage of the evening.  However, finally was just a bit presumptuous.  The dessert of cooked custard coated with baked apple and topped with a large scoop of raspberry sorbet would be the final serving.  It was beautiful and delicious but I could not finish.  So, a portion of the Rosa Tiepolo, creazione in omaggio al Giovane GB Tiepolo went unfinished.  I sadly watched the waiter clear my table, I paid the rather small bill, given the amount I consumed, and I waddled back to my bed. 

Thoughts on Vienna and Austria

For those who have not ventured to this corner of the world, Austria is a small, beautiful country with rolling hills, lush fields, old growth forests and quaint villages.  The people appear very hearty and have a life focus which does not seem very friendly at first but warms with time...even just a short time.  They are jovial en masse and have a suble joie de vivra.  The villages are pristine and full of a heritage preserved with obvious pride.  The cuisine is equally hearty, as is the beer and wine.

Vienna is similar to other large European cities.  It may be cleaner than some but, like all others, it has its very beautiful parts and its parts that are not so appealing.  The city center (altstadt) is full of very elegant facades, however, there is much construction which dampened their beauty.  Also, the city planners have allowed modern buidlings to creep in amongst the beautiful facades.  The combination is often not too appealing.  The city has many parks, which softens the effect of the helter skelter of city life.  The city is a melting pot of tourists as well as residents.  There are many Eastern Europeans, a growing number of Asians, many Italians and too many Americans (mostly doing business).  Overall, I liked this city and may return to spend more time during next year's European vacation.

Schloss Schonbrunn: an elegant adventure

On this leisurely Sunday morning I again took my breakfast at the hotel and then walked to a nearby park.  I took a seat in the sun, just beside a nice rose garden which had a few Kana Lilies as its border.  The lilies took my thoughts to home.  I wondered if I would ever permanently leave that lovely place.

This park was full of large oak trees.  It was the time of year when their seeds would make their propeller ride to the ground in search of a space for rooting to become their own giant tree.  The spiraling seeds took my thoughts back to my boyhood, which gave me a smile.  This place was perfect for quiet contemplation.  The day was warm and the sun was bright.  There was a quite strong wind, as if a change in the weather might be coming, but this part of the park was largely protected from the strong gusts.

From time to time the air would come alive with the peel of distant church bells or the joyous screams of children playing on the distant side of the park.  It was a good punctuation to the quiet.  Often people would walk by with their dogs, which made me think of Pua and how she might be.  At this hour she would be sound asleep and that was good.

As the morning passed I decided to spend the rest of this day at the Schloss.  It would not be so peaceful but more stimulating.  I took a cab to the front of the castle complex and arranged for my schedule of events that would keep me here into the night.  First, their was the grand tour which was, indeed, pretty grand.  There were many very ornate rooms filled with ornate furniture and ornate painting.  However, for me, it's a bit like cathedrals in that after you've seen a few the rest are often simply more of the same.  Sure, there are occassionally distinctive features but, in this case, the sameness allowed me to move through the tour quite quickly. It should be pointed out that this must be very interesting to most because there were, seemingly, all of God's tourists packed into this enormous place.  It was like what it must've been in the Tower of Babel.  I exited the castle and walked through the unbelieveably beautiful gardens.  Although it has been some time, it seemed to me that these gardens were more beautiful than Versailles.  I trekked to the top of the gardens where there was a memorial and from that vantage point there was a panoramic view of the city.  I lingered here for some time, overlooking the beautiful flower gardens below.

Time passed and, as the sun began to set, I moved to the castle restaurant where I had arranged to have dinner before the evening concert.  The restaurant was very elegant.  My fellow diners were mostly older people seated in groups of four or six.  There were a couple of tables with one or two diners but we were definately in the minority.  The attire was interesting.  I brought a tie and wore a sports coat so that I would not be too underdressed.  Well, that was hardly necessary.  There was a wide range of dress, some well dressed and some not so much..

I began my dinner with a Campari and then ordered Rotweine (red wine) from a local winery.  The Rotweine was quite good, much to my surprise.  I was seated by a Japanese woman and her daughter so we toasted "compi" before our dinner.  The meal began with Beef Consomme (Rindsuppe) with Sliced Pancake (Frittaten).  It was smooth with a rich broth and very enjoyable.  Next came the "Tafelspitz mit schnittlauchsauce mit gerosteten erdapfel" or boiled corned beef with a chive sauce and roasted potatoes.  The beef with the chive sauce was excellent and the roasted potatoes were perfectly spiced.  It was a very enjoyable entree.  Lastly, the serving was a very elegant Applestrudel, hand made and complimented with an excellent cream sauce.  It was a very nice meal from what was basically a museum restaurant.

After dinner we retired to the concert hall, the Orangerie, for this evening's performance.  The hall was extremely elegant and the elegance was enhanced by the soft orange lighting.  The 16-piece orchestra was outstanding, for a country boy like me.  The pieces that included opera were nice but not particularly special.  The pieces that included ballet were not that special but, in all cases, the music was excellent.  It was a very nice evening and a great sendoff for my drive to Italy the next morning.

Huber's Essen & Trinken, Vienna...a culinary surprise

I was unable to secure a table at Steirereck (poor planning) so the concierge recommended that I try a place that he has come to enjoy, so, off I go to Huber's on Rennweg (http://www.hubersonline.at/) for what I hoped would be a good "local" dining experience.  What I found was, in essence, a local corner bar with a bit of elegance.  It was a rather small place with but four inside tables, a handfull of outside tables and no more than a half dozen bar stools.  However, the inside ambiance was quite nice, given that the location is on a pretty busy street.  The decor is art deco and the apponitments were very elegant.  My fellow diners were all local families and there were a few local guys at the bar snacking and drinking and having a very nice, jovial time.  It was a very relaxing place to have a nice meal and to absorb local culture.

The owners were Georgia and Andreas.  I could just catch a glimpse of Georgia working away in her petite kitchen.  As for Andreas, he was the waiter/bartender and a most amiable guy with a nice smile and an excellent temperment.  The service was very good.  The dinner was nicely paced.  I began with a Trumer Pilsner (I have decided that it is better to have beer than wine in Austria) and munched on a tray of breads, black olives and small, sweet peppers as I perused the small menu.

I began with a Red Beet Gnocchi in a bed of rich, creamy sauce and topped with a delicate piece of smoked trout.  The composition of a bite included a small piece of smoked trout over a piece of tender gnocchi which was then passed through the creamy sauce.  Holding a small bite in one's mouth for a moment to allow it to penetrate the taste buds was simply, well, beyond description.  After every few small bites I would take a sip of beer, which was light and added a different dimension to the next small bite.  I languished over this first serving for some time.  Andreas came toward the table twice but turned away.  Finally, I gathered the last bit of creamy sauce with a piece of bread and pushed back to catch my breath.

Next came the Buffalo Mozzarella Tower with Rucola(arugula) and Pesto.  It was a beautiful presentation and a very interesting approach to Caprese.  The tower was comprised of a layer of succulent tomato, a layer of firm, fresh mozzarella, a layer of nicely done aubergine(eggplant), then mozzarella, then a repeat of each item.  The Rucola added a nice peppery accent and the Pesto had just the right amount of garlic.  The combined tastes were excellent.  Once again, with a bite consisting of a bit of tomato, a bit of cheese, a bit of eggplant, all covered with arugula and pesto, the taste buds were thrown into a state of total ecstacy.  Andreas was beginning to wonder if I would ever finish this meal.

Lastly, I selected the mandatory Wiener Schnitzel of Veal with Parsley Potatoes and a lovely side salad..  The salad was a beautiful small garden salad.  All of the ingredients were fresh and crisp.  The dressing was light and refreshing.  The salad was an excellent compliment to the Schnitzel, which was lightly breaded and very tender.  The potatoes were light and buttery.  Overall, the entree possessed a nice range of texture and tastes but I took them more in succession rather then in tandem.  I would enjoy a bite of veal, then a bit of potato, then a bite of salad, then sit back for a moment, then have a sip of beer.  This process continued until the platter was clean.  If I had been observing a person eating a meal in this fashion I am certain that I would have thought it very odd, but for me, I was experiencing massive enjoyment.

Now, I must admit that I was satisfied.  I would not be able to enjoy a dessert this evening so I settled for a nice glass of Grappa to settle myself for the stroll back to the hotel.  This had been a very nice dining experience.  I paid the surprisingly small bill, bid farewell to Andreas and sauntered into the night.

Joseph Decuis: excellence amidst banality (my word)

After a couple of fits and starts our rendevous was arranged for the restaurant.  I drove from the city and into this very small village of Roanoke, Indiana, which had but one main street.  Fortunately, that one main street was dominated by the Joseph Decuis Restauant and nearby Emporium.  I, as usual, arrived a bit early.  I took a few minutes to walk the length and breadth of this petite central business district.  I had just stopped at the front of the restaurant to peruse the menu when the ladies arrived.  Suddenly the air was full of hugs and kisses and sighs and smiles and thoughts of what had been those many years ago.

My guests for that evening were Sonja (aka Sunnie, probably because of her electric smile and bubbly personality) who was quite likely the only person alive who has known me since I was a child.  Our mothers were best friends and we literally grew up together.  Second, there was Bridgette, Sunnie's indefatigable younger sister and the personification of "joie de vivre".  Lastly and certainly not the least was Sunnie's lovely daughter, Erin, a quite stunning young woman who possesses a certain "je ne sais quoi".  What an outstanding group with whom I was having the pleasure of spending this evening.

We  were still a bit early so we wandered down to the Emporium.  It was quite a nice little cafe and shop, surprisingly full of evident delicacies and with a rather large backroom full of a surprisingly wide variety of wines.  The shop was richly appointed and was a place I would frequent if weren't in the middle of nowhere.  After a time we stepped into the restaurant, again entering a richly appointed den of fine dining.  I noticed that to the back of a rather small initial dining area was an enormous, fully appointed kitchen open to the dining area. It was a beautiful sight, this restaurant's heart.

We were escorted through the initial dining area and into a lovely atrium area, where we would take our dinner.  As we sat, reviewing the menu and chatting away a smile came to my spirit as I realized the special nature of this time and these women and this place.  As the evening conversation progressed there were fond memories sprinkled with a few thoughts of sadness but that all passed as eventually our thoughts focused on the food and we ordered.

Although this will not be a detailed description of this outstanding culinary adventure, for I spent too much time enjoying the pleasure of these women, I can tell you that each serving was beautifully presented.  I can say that each serving was an excellent combination of texture and tastes for we each shared our selection.  This island of dining pleasure cast in a sea of middle American dining mediocrity was filled with excellence.  The ambiance was excellent, the service was beyond reproach and those things perfectly complimented a very memorable dining experience.

I will share a few thoughts on my specific selections.  We had a very nice 2006 Domaine Serene Reserve Pinot Noir.  My selections began with Pan Seared Veal Brains served on a bed of scrambled eggs with chives, surrounded with freshly picked asparagus from the restaurant's gardens and covered with a rich broth.  The meat preparation had a light crust and was deliciously tender on the inside.  When combined with the firmness of the asparagus and the creaminess of the eggs, the taste/texture combination was superior.  Secondly, I had Panchetta-wrapped Monkfish served on a bed of creamy polenta filled with fresh garden vegetables.  The fish was perfectly done and, once again, the combination was flavors was exceptional.  I was very pleasantly surprised to find such selections in the heartland.

So, I shall most likely never again pass through Roanoke, Indiana but I did have an excellent time while I was in that tiny little village.  If you should get lost or have a mental lapse and end up near this village, stop for a bite.  You will not be dissapointed.

Fogo de Chao...a Brazilian Restaurant

I'm not quite certain what makes this place a "Brazilian" restaurant but, what ever the lineage, it certainly was, in my experience, unique.  It is an art deco/modernistic place with lots of wood and glass.  It has the ambiance of a fast food restaurant, noisy, hectic and very crowded.  However, if you can get past those distractions you could have an excellent meal.

In the center of the eating area is a large island salad bar, sort of like in the '60's.  The serve yourself salad bar is not particularly distinctive except for the fact that it is an interesting place to watch the herd of overweight patrons push and shove for the only greens they've seen in probably a year.  However, it does have delicious artichoke hearts, hearts of palm, lovely sweet peppers, shittake mushrooms, smoked salmon, fresh mozzarella, and sun-dried tomatoes.  When patrons have finished grazing they may begin their main course, which consists of meat, meat and more meat.

The main course is served, one does not order but, rather selects from an unending parade of servers with enormous skewers of meats prepared in a wide range of ways, and the service is very good.  Occasionally the service seems a bit too attentive.  It's almost like they're pushing you to finish so that they can turn the table and there is a large waiting room full of wide bodies.  The core of the main course is comprised of excellent garlic mashed potatoes, sweet fried bananas with brown sugar, and thinly sliced fried polenta topped with grated Parmesan.  These are all excellent and they continually replenish the dishes.

The stars of the meals are the meats.  The skewers are very large.  A man with a skewers walks up to the table and asks if you'd like what he has on his skewer.  At this point many of the women diner faint.  If you'd like a cut then he'd ask if you'd like medium, rare or whatever.  You select medium rare, he cuts a slice and shows it to you.  If you like what you see he places it on your plate.  That process goes on continually for as long as you allow it.  The meats are fillets, rib eye, and sirloin for the beef, each prepared in a range of different way, as well as lamb and pork.  I guess this is the Brazilian part for each preparation has a different name, e.g., Picanha or Aleatra or Fraldinha or Cordeiro and so on.  No matter the name, each serving was perfectly spiced, done exactly as you would wish, and simply delicious.

The restaurant had a large wine list, too.  For me, I complimented my meal with an outstanding 2006 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon.  So, the entire evening my senses were overwhelmed by a delicious bit, a sip of wine and a look around at the carnival surrounding me.  If this food had been served in a lovely little bistro it would've been an outstanding culinary experience.  But, with all of the noise and commotion it was just an outstanding culinary experience.  I may never travel this way again but it was a lovely experience.

Harry and Izzy's: the best of Indianapolis

Carving our way through the city's downtown reconstruction in preparation for the next Super Bowl, amazingly we land in front what is purported to be Indianapolis' best eatery, Harry and Izzy's.  I was not aware of the fame of this center city food palace but my brother, David, came loaded with a healthy appetite.  Fortunately, given the construction, there was valet parking so we had a few moments to stroll about the downtown.  We briefly viewed the new 5-star hotel, The Conrad, and we peeked into the elegant old Canterbury Hotel just next to the restaurant.  It was good to know that such places existed given the possibility of a future visit.

Just before our scheduled time we entered this lushly appointed sports bar for a possible early seating.  We were easily accommodated and settled into a very nice leather booth in an smaller room just off of the bar.  It would be a good space to have our brotherly chat as contrasted to the much larger and noisier bar area.  As we were escorted through the main bar area I notice that the patrons were a large, earthy group and they reminded me of my life as a young boy growing up in the heartland.  Our waiter brought menus and a wine list.  We perused and chatted as light jazz played in the background.  After a time the waiter returned with some lovely breads and to receive our selections.  David selected a glass of house chardonnay and I ordered a bottle of 2008 Domaine Drouhin Pinot, which we would hopefully eventually share.  White wine drinkers in steak joints befuddle me.  Yes, as I looked over the menu it was obvious that this was a steak place.

For starters we would share an over sized portion of this restaurant's renowned Shrimp Cocktail to be covered in a very spicy horseradish sauce.  David's dinner choice was a medium Rib eye Steak with a side of Potato Pancakes (a Hoosier/German delicacy).  For me, who seldom orders a steak away from home, the Rack of Lamb on the rare side with a side of Asparagus Spears would be just fine.  We sipped and waited, but not for too long.  The Shrimp Cocktail was served shortly and it was covered in a sauce that was truly spicy.  The shrimp were large and meaty.  The meat was firm so they had been perfectly cooked.  The sauce was "eye watering" and certainly not a good sauce for wine.  So, we slowly nibbled away at this dish and sipped our cold waters.  The waiter did an excellent job of pacing our dinner, probably knowing that it would take us awhile to finish the spicy shrimp.

The remains of the appetizer were removed and our entrees were delivered.  The steak serving looked like a typical steak serving, possibly a bit larger.  However, the Rack of Lamb looked great.  We stopped our chatting and addressed the mass of meat before us.  The lamb was seated in a bed of delicious orange sauce and was perfectly cooked.  Each morsel was tender and, when dipped into the sauce, was perfectly spiced.  The Asparagus Spears were a beautiful green and they, too, were nicely cooked.  They had been bathed in butter, making each taste rich and each bite crisp.  I did not have a taste of David's steak but I do recall hearing several moans of culinary pleasure from his side of the booth.  We finished with a dessert which was not memorable.

I do not frequent steak houses in the normal course of my culinary adventures but, this is America's heartland where meat is king, so, there I was.  The ambiance was nice, although it would have been quite noisy in the main dining/bar area, the service was friendly and perfectly paced, and the food was excellent.  It might not be a place I would revisit but I am not sorry for the time we spent at Harry and Izzy's.

Farm to Fork Hawaii

There is a growing movement around the world to consume foods that are grown close to the point of consumption.  Restaurants and regular people are buying fresher foods from local growers.  My experience at the Kealakekua Bed & Breakfast under the logo of Farm to Fork Hawaii guided by the effervescent Emily Peacock is a part of that movement.

One warm evening I gathered up my dining companion for this event, Virginia, and we set off for what we expected would be a wonderful culinary adventure.  We trekked down curvy Napoopoo Road to a well manicured terrace of green set amidst a sea of black lava and overlooking scenic Kealakekua Bay to sit with a small group of "foodies" for an evening of fine dining.  We were to experience the culinary skills of local chef and culinary instructor, Paul Heerlein (www.chefpaulhawaii.com) and we were not to be disappointed.

The ambiance of the open air dining overlooking the ocean was excellent, although the crowd was a bit raucous at times. For those of us fortunate enough to face the bay, we did see a "green flash" from that evening's sunset.  The soft background music was very nice and the wait staff did an excellent job despite their young ages.  Overall, it was a very collegial evening.

Regarding the menu, we began with a very nice array of hors d'oeuvers (pupus to local people) including (1) a Pipikaula, Brie and Cherry Tomato Crostini, (2)Ahi Poke Cones with a Wasabi Aioli and Tobiko, (3) Braised Kamuela Beef with CP's Kona Coffee Barbeque Sauce on a Roy Honda Tomato slice in a Compote with Goat Cheese Sauce, and (4) Uncle Jim's Shrimp Seviche on a Roy Honda Cucumber slice.  There were plentiful servings and they were well complimented with an array of crisp white wines.

Our appetizer was a delicious Ahi Tuna Carpaccio with shaved Parmigianino Reggiano cheese and Capers, all dressed with freshly squeezed lemon and drizzled with a very tasty Olive Oil. It was really a melt in your mouth first course.  Our soup was a nicely presented Lomi lomi Tomato Cappuccino with an Ono Gravlox Crostini.  The Cappuccino had a rich tomato taste and was accented with watercress, sweet onion and grapefruit.  It was nicely peppered yielding an excellent array of tastes with each bite.  The Crostini had an excellent cheese and was perfectly done.  The wine with both of these courses was a Sella & Mosca Vermentino which provided a firm melon taste but it did seem to have a bit of an aftertaste.

The entree was an outstanding preparation of locally farm raised Kona Kea Shrimp surrounded by a wide range of local vegetables that were tender and succulent.  However, at the center of the beautifully arranged vegetables was a very delicious squash puree which was the star of this course.  This presentation was an excellent representation of the quality of the Chef and his staff.  The entree was accompanied by a very nice Paso Robles Sauvignon Blanc.

The dessert was Emily's Mango and White Chocolate Mousse Phyllo Napoleon with a delicate Surinam Cherry Sauce.  This was a fortunately delicate selection in both texture and taste, making it a very nice close for the meal.  A small glass of Chateaux Saint Michel Riesling followed by a nice cup of French Roast Kona Lisa coffee set the stage for our gradual exit.  It had been a very nice group, with several farmers who had provided the ingredients for the meal in attendance.  I look forward to future dining sessions at this quite lovely location and the opportunity to visit with fellow local "foodies".

If you might be interested in the Farm to Fork concept and events, please contact Emily at 808-328-8150 or e-mail her at f2fhawaii@gmail.com.

The Coast Grille at the Hapuna Prince Resort...delightful

It was a lovely late afternoon as we headed for the seldom discussed Hapuna Prince Resort, the sister property to the world renowned Mauna Kea Resort located just across the road.  We entered the relatively non-descript lobby located some six stories above the ocean and were directed to a set of elevators which would carry us down four floors to the hotel's main restaurant, the Coast Grille.  We exited the elevator, crossed the gardens and came upon a very nice open air dining area with a nice view of the quite large pool area just one more story below and of the beautiful beach inlet two stories down.  The view was nicely panoramic despite a few very large and quite lovely old growth trees which served to partially block the setting sun.  It was still quite warm but there was a nice ocean breeze.  This evening I was being treated to dinner by my frequent dining companion , Sharon.  We perused the menu and wine list as we awaited  our wait person.  She, a very lovely local woman with a beautiful smile and a warm voice, arrived shortly with a plate of freshly baked breads and oil for dipping.  We selected our wine, a 2007 Domaine de l'Arlot "Clos des Floret, Nuits-St-Georges France, and settled in to watch the sun set. 

The horizon was very clear and we hoped for a "green flash" sunset.  As we sipped our wine and nibbled on the breads the sun sank into the ocean, yielding a small but quite brilliant "green flash".  I looked to Sharon and asked if she had seen it.  She had and smiled.  About that time the lady at the next table asked aloud if there had been a "green flash".  I looked in her direction, explaining that there had been a flash but that she would not be able to see it with her sunglasses on.  She turned and looked at me incredulously.  She turned to her husband, asking if he'd seen a "green flash"?  He smiled and looked down at his dinner.  She removed her sunglasses and glared at the horizon as if willing the "green flash" to return for her.  I looked at Sharon and she gave me that look which confirmed my suspicions that I should mind my own business.  We returned to our wine.

Our dinner arrived in good order.  Sharon had a very nice Iceberg Wedge Salad served with House Bacon, fresh buttery Avocado and an excellent Truffle Bleu Cheese Dressing.  I selected the Chilled Nakano Gold Tomato Gazpacho which contained a large dollop of Big Island Goat Cheese, Kamuela Strawberries and sprinkles of Baby Herbs.  I tasted a bit of Sharon's salad and it was good.  However, my Gazpacho was spectacular.  The mild acidity of the golden tomatoes coupled with the sweetness of the strawberries and the smooth, creamy goat cheese was a symphony for the taste buds.  While I did share a bit with my companion I will admit that it was shared grudgingly.  I slowly sipped the feast of tastes and textures, holding each spoonful in my mouth to allow its many taste dimensions to rest on my pallet.  I have never had such good Gazpacho.

After I had virtually licked the bowl clean our entrees were delivered.  Sharon had the a Garlic Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb with Mint Jus and sides of whipped Moloka'i Sweet Potatoes, Dijon Gratin, a serving of Ratatouille.  It must have been good.  She didn't say much during this course and I didn't get a taste.

I feasted on the pan roasted Kurobuta Pork Chop, which was perfectly done with a light crust on the outside while being deliciously moist inside.  My accompaniments were "Kea" Sweet Potato with Thyme Infused Ohia Honey and a Mustard Sauce along with honey coated organic Carrots.  The unique combination of Thyme, Mustard and the strong tasting Ohia Honey was very tasty and an excellent compliment to the meat.

After our entrees we were very satisfied and settled ourselves into nibbling on a dessert of fresh fruits along with smooth sorbets.  We sipped our coffees and shared comments on the glory of this delicious repast.  On the hour drive back to town we talked, as we often did, of the vagaries of life.  Yes, the river of life was flowing more slowly but many of the experiences were as delicious as this evening.  It was a very nice evening.