Thanksgiving-Hawaiian Style

I left my mountain retreat this Thanksgiving afternoon and headed north along Queen Kaahumanu Highway into blustery trade winds.  An afternoon haze yielded only a faint view of the massive Haleakala, the capstone of the island of Maui, across the Alenuihaha Channel.  Off to my right was a clear view of the equally massive Mauna Kea, brushed clear of clouds by the strong winds.  Straight ahead lay the Kohala Mountains, capped with clouds, which I thought was very odd given the wind.  What a panorama, massive volcanic mountains blending into the deep blue ocean.

As I turned onto the road entering the resort I noticed how the giant palms swirled about wildly in the wind, as if mimicking some wild ‘60’s dance.  A short way down the road I veered off to the right, away from the resort and into a group of private homes.  I parked my pickup truck in a spot which had heretofore known only luxury sedans, strode across the manicured lawn and into quite a nice holiday feast.

I removed my slippers at the front door, moved down a short hallway and ran into a wall of aromas that stopped me in my tracks.  While the pupus (i.e., appetizers) were good and the wines served their role, the dinner was the star of this evening.  To begin, there were two turkeys, one slow cooked in an imu (an earthen oven) and the second slow cooked over a gas flame grill.  The “imu” turkey was seasoned only with oyster sauce and then wrapped in Ti leaves for the long, overnight bake.  The grilled turkey was placed breast down, seasoned lightly and then smoked with mesquite wood for seven hours.  The almost buttery taste of the “imu” preparation was excellent and was a superb compliment to the smoked taste of the grilled bird.

While the meats were very tasty and the al dente haricot verte, the spicy cranberry sauce, the heavily creamed skin-on mashed potatoes, the gourmet salad were above reproach, the dinner stars were the dressing and the sweet potatoes.  The sweet potatoes were pureed with heavy cream, candied ginger and a touch of whiskey.  The color, texture and taste were perfect.  The sweetness coupled with the ginger was so good.

But, for me, the piece d’resistance was the dressing.  It began with fresh baked herbal focaccia, which was complimented a sauté of garden fresh spinach, onions, celery, carrots and garlic.  When you add a generous portion of feta cheese, freshly picked sage, thyme and Italian parsley, bake that in a roux of “huli huli” chicken broth textured with a couple of eggs, you have an unbelievably rich and delicious carnival of flavors.  I could’ve slathered it all over my body.

We ended with a delicious homemade flan topped with a very nice raspberry sauce.  It was an eating climax but a memory that will linger, both in my mind and around my belt line.  The magic of the food was punctuated by ringing laughter.  The joy of the evening floated on a breeze of soft Gregorian chants.  When we could move, we ensconced ourselves on the sofas and sipped a lovely South African after dinner tea.  Slowly I gathered the energy for the drive home.  The long drive was very dark, the stars were bright and I was warmed by the thoughts of my special evening.

Bordeaux Wines

While I was cavorting around the French coutryside I managed to visit with a few vintners.  I was happy to know the best years for Bordeaux wines and I thought you might be happy to have that information, too.  So, the best year for these wines in the past 20 years was 2000, hands down.  The years of 2003 and 2005 were pretty good, too.  The other years were o.k., except for the years of 2002, 2004 and 2007, which were definately not good years.  In summary, it's good to buy 2000, 2003 and 2005 but be wary of any other year.  I hope that this adds to your wine knowledge.  Malama pono.

Grand Barrail, Saint Emilion, France

Upon departing the Spartan life of the spiritually enriching Plum Village, I arrived at the exact opposite end of life's spectrum, the sensually enriching Grand Barrail. The opulence of this wonderful place was in such stark contrast to Le Village du Pruniers that my smiling countenance actually increased. Nirvana has many dimensions.

The staff was so gracious, a warm, smiling graciousness. The spa was so inviting. The restaurant was so delicious. For me, a simple farmer with a life firmly entrenched in the middle of these two extremes, I deeply enjoyed each experience for itself and look forward to a return to each.

I'm sending this to encourage you, should you find that travel brings you to southwestern France, to experience this tremendous place, the Grand Barrail Hotel and Spa.

It's Monday, this must be Spain.

I arose very early, beginning my voyage in the dark. My long drive skirted Bordeaux, headed across a plain full of tree farms, and into the Pyrennes. As I drive I'm focussed on the road because it is a very rainy, very windy day. Entering the small mountains I realize that I do not understand the road signs. They're no longer in French, but Spanish. Sure, I realized it would happen but the sudden realization of how ignorant I was became sobering. I don't speak nor understand Spanish. Encore, c'est la vie.

My destination is San Sebastian, Spain, which is rumored to be a culinary hot spot. I'm scouting a possible future eating destination. I've become a bit overdosed on French food. Being very poorly prepared for this last minute adventure, arrival in San Sebastian finds me with no map and in a pretty busy small city dissected by a river. What is where? Wandering around into wrong turn after wrong turn, I finally locate a hotel. After a few more erroneous turns, I find my way to the front of the hotel. Inside they are kind enough to speak English and to give me a map of the city. They point me in the correct direction (the old city with many restaurants) and I'm off.

Driving about, looking for a place to park, I see the majority of the old city and the commercial district. Finally, I find a parking spot. One thing I did accomplish prior to my beginning this trip, I amassed a list of five very good restaurants in the area of San Sebastian. So, I began wandering about the core city looking for just one of these fine eating places. I had no luck. So, I began watching what the people were doing for food (by now it was lunch time-1p here). What I noticed was that every bar had its counter filled with plates of food with people standing around, talking, eating, drinking. It looked like a good idea.

It situated myself outside a small bar that was full of very chatty folks who looked so happy, despite the bad weather. I watched for awhile to see how things worked. It was a bit difficult to determine. Everyone seemed to be going in every direction. What were they doing? Finally, two people left and I moved into their place. I ordered a beer and asked the bartender if he spoke English. He did not. I motioned at the food and he gave me a plate. I moved along the bar, trying to determine what was what. These were what they call Pintxos (sp?) and we call Pupus in Hawaii.

I selected from the dishes which had the fewest pieces remaining, assuming that the diners who knew what they were eating liked those the best. I, in general, didn't have a clue what I was eating but each tasted really good. One portion had salmon, another had peppers with anchovies, the next had fish of some sort with olives, a sausage came next, then another and another. Suddenly, everyone left. I was the only person there and my beer was gone. Interesting. I went to the cash register. They asked my something in Spanish. I assumed they wanted to know how much I had eaten. I held up fingers. They punched the keys on the cash register. I paid and moved on. Thankfully, the food was good and I was full. I walked around the old city for another hour or so, looking for one of my recommended restaurants. Again, no luck and I wasn't really attracted to any of the places. So, back to the car and back on the road.

I may not have found what I came in search of but this is a place to which I will definitely return. It's full of happy people and I'm interested in discovering this cuisine which is new to me. Maybe next spring when I return to Plum Village. Maybe I should learn some Spanish. Now, it's time to prepare for my trip home.

Lazy Sunday

It's Sunday and I'm very weary of traveling so, a day off is in order. After a light breakfast I head for a steam and a bit of conversation with a nice French couple. A late lunch followed by another spa treatment from Celine, a beautiful Cambodian girl, and this day is over.
Regarding Celine, after our first session I openly professed my love for her and asked that she come home with me. I have never been so relaxed. She flashed a big smile and I scheduled another session. What's an old man to do?
Jump ahead and I've just finished my session. Not to belabor this spa treatment business, but, I would just tell you that, as I retire to my room from my last time with her, I say to Celine, "I hope that you have someone in your life who gives you as much pleasure as you have given me." (it sounded great in French).
Tomorrow I'm going to have a new adventure. How will it go? Qui vivra verra!

L'Envers, the dessert

It's the middle of the night here but I just couldn't get this off my mind. I did not do my dessert at this restaurant justice. To remind you, the dessert was an encrusted chocolate mousse placed in a pool of dark chocolate and accompanied by a large scoop of mint ice cream. The mousse portion was shaped like and about twice as large as a hockey puck.

What I would do was dip my spoon into the hockey puck and then slide it across the chocolate pond. I would allow each bite to slowly dissolve in my mouth before chasing it with a bit of mint ice cream. After each bite I would place my cleanly licked spoon next to my plate. I'd look down, staring at what remained. Over and over, ever so deliberately, I went through this same process until the plate was nearly licked clean. Yes, I really enjoyed this dessert.

Sorry, but, I had to share that...I couldn't sleep for remembering the entire experience.

L'Envers du Decor au Saint Emilion

I asked the concierge for the recommendation of a local restaurant and this was his choice. I'd been eating in too many "fancy" places. It was time to get some local flavor. While it was in the center of one of the biggest tourist places in southwestern France, it was definitely a place where the locals ate. There were a few tourists but there were mostly families and young couples out for the evening. The ambiance was quaint and rustic, the service was like being at a local bar but everyone was friendly and the food was good.

I selected a 2005 Chateau Cadet Bon Grand Cru of Saint Emilion, which was quite dry but excellent with my food. My first course was Escargot (Cagouille) a la Bordelaise, which was nicely presented by the guy in the tee shirt. The snails were lightly fried and very nicely seasoned. The greens were fresh, as were the tomatoes. The snails were wrapped in a very light and buttery crust. The taste combination in each bite was a fine compliment to the wine.

Second course was a Magret de Canard aux Cerise Noires. This was truly family fare. The quite large duck breast was prepared in black cherry sauce and was very tasty. The accompanying fried potatoes with carrots and squash were a bit over cooked, you might say mushy. Overall, not a bad course but too much food.

Next came three excellent cheeses. There was a firm and quite strong sheep cheese, a soft and very tasty Brie-type cheese, and an aged goat cheese which was too good. They formed an excellent pairing as I moved from cheese to cheese, sipping wine between small tastes.

Lastly, the Chocolatherapie. It took awhile to come because the restaurant had become quite busy, but it was worth the wait. There was an encrusted disk of light chocolate mousse surrounded by a pool of dark chocolate. Next to the dark brown pool was a large scoop of delicious mint ice cream. Maybe it wasn't as dramatic as the chocolate sphere in Amboise but it was certainly an excellent way to end the evening.

Well, I've been on a culinary roller coaster. I might need a day to recover. We'll see.

La Restaurant at Hotel Grand Barrail

To begin, the place is spectacular. Situated amidst acres, no, hectares of vineyards, this former grand chateau has had a welcoming area and a spa added to create a total satisfaction destination. So, walk through the reception area, up a marble staircase and into a dining salon encased in ornate stained glass.

Taking a seat in the waiting area, I have my usual Campari and soda, watching the others arriving for dinner. After I've finished my drink, I'm escorted into the salon and seated at a corner table for one. It's an excellent spot to dine and watch. I make my selections, in French no less, and select a wine. The wine for tonight will be a 1998 Chateau Villemaurine, a Saint Emilion Grand Cru.

Now, Chef Romain Gondras takes charge. The starter is a quite delicious salmon set in a purée of tomato and onion. The first course is a Crevettes Tigrees, bouillon de tetes, avec Ravioles de Boeuf Croustillantes. The shrimp are excellent, the raviolis are rich and crispy, and the bouillon was so good that I wanted to lick the bowl.

Next we'll have a Carre de Cochon Basque, Poitrine Braisse, et une Puree de Lentilles Roses. This course was not quite as good as I would've hoped. The lentil purée was outstanding and the Poitrine was deliciously rich, but the pork, fixed in Basque style, was just o.k. C'est la vie.

The cheese course brought the meal back famously. Le Classique "Ossau-Fraty" et sa Confiture de Cerises Noires produced a perfect combination of tastes. The sweet black cherry jam combined with the firm, stout sheep's cheese made each taste a treat.

Lastly, how could I not have the soufflé? Now we'll be moving from wine to Armagnac. It was a Souffle au Patxaran, which is created by combining Les Prunelle (baby prunes) with Alcool d'Asise. It was so soft and so sweet. The Armagnac tasted perfect with the soufflé.

It's now time for a coffee and an opportunity to sit back and reflect on the evening. Well, the service was excellent and the viewing was entertaining. Across the room was a Chinese couple who spoke no French. Watching them order and select a wine was bordering on funny. A little further over were six young American who had a dynamic going on that's hard to describe. They were there for a wedding. They were interesting to watch because it was obvious that they didn't know each other well and didn't like each other very much. Watching them select wine, the cost of which they'd share, produced an interesting group struggle. Also, there were three separate young French couples who were obviously uncomfortable with the restaurant prices. It seemed that they were each trying, after perusing the menu, to get out of this place without spending next month's grocery money. All in all, an excellent group to entertain me between courses. Of course, my characterization are all speculative but it's fun to play that game very quietly. So, I sat, listened to the light jazz, watched a bit longer, then wandered up to my room. The dinner wasn't great but I had a fine time.

Amboise

My return to France was begun with a quite interesting drive through Paris, followed by a very boring drive across central France to the touristy town of Amboise. I wandered down country roads amidst just plowed fields and into the Loire River valley. There, straddling the Loire was my destination and I was happy to settle in for the night. My hotel, Le Choisel, sat just along the bank of the river and, while it was a bit dated, was a lovely old place. I arranged for dinner and settled into my room, which was large but seemed cramped because of all of the ancient French chairs and benches strewn about the place. I decided that some exercise would be good so I took a walk along the river and then through the town center.

Returning to the hotel, I prepared myself for dinner, not knowing quite what to expect. Well, I can tell you that chef Guillaume Dallay provided me with an excellent culinary experience. I was seated at the back of the elegant dining room with a nice view of the Loire rolling by. Light classical music was the background for the hum of the other diners. It was interesting that they were all older and several couples appeared very charming in their interaction with the wait staff and each other. I settled in for an experience different than the others given the ambiance of this place.

Of course, I began with a Campari and soda to cleanse the palate. I decided on the gist of my meal and ordered a 2003 Chateau Larmande from Saint Emilion. This has been my fourth or fifth bottle of red from that area and they have all been superior. A small tray of starters was delivered and I finished my Campari. In a few moments the sommelier delivered and decanted my wine, a first for this trip. He a tually tasted the wine before decanting. Nice.

The first course was a Terrine de Foie Gras de Canard mi-cut au natural, marmalade de Granny Smith au porto rouge et anguille de Loire Fumee. It was beautifully presented and the taste combinations were great. The Foie GRAS with the marmalade coupled with lightly toasted bread was so good. The Foie Gras was like sweet butter. I was very deliberate in my enjoyment.

Next came Aile de Pigeonneau de Racan Roti aux Griottes, Risotto aux ceps de noter region sur Bruschetta de Farce Fine. The cherries with the perfectly done squab was very tasty. The Bruschetta was delicate and tasty. The Risotto was light and an elegant combination for the other portions of this serving. I was so happy.

The cheese course followed and the selection of those presented, there were 23 different local cheeses, helped me to finish my wine. The tasting began with light and finished with nice, strong selections.

Finally came the most amazing dessert. Sphere Chocolate Noir en Chaud-Froid avec Framboises Fraiches Noix de Pecan Creme Glacee a la Vanille. Basically, it was a chocolate ball filled with raspberries and ice cream. After the ball was presented they poured warm chocolate over it to melt the ball. How did they do that? It was so good! Chocolate melting chocolate over raspberries and vanilla ice cream. OMG!

I sipped a coffee and tried to gather my composure. When I got back to the room, I flopped. I may never eat so well again...until next time. A hui hou.

A Wonderful Ending

After a large salad and a bit of pork pie, we headed to Lower Slaughter for a stroll. As an aside, it has been so nice to have lunch in the apartment's corner room overlooking the gardens. But, back to our walk. We parked in the village and stalked off through the meadows and along a brisk little trout stream toward Upper Slaughter. Making our way past quaint cottages, we arrived at the tea room situated in the gardens of the Upper Slaughter Rectory. We had our tea and basked in the afternoon sun. After a time we gathered ourselves up and headed back to from whence we'd come. The reward for our trek back was a fine selection of homemade cakes being served at the Lower Slaughter Village Hall. Now that we've had our walk and our tea and our cakes, we head back to the manor for a glass of sherry. How civilized.

It's time to head back to France. Back to more wine, less tea and cake.

The Old Post Office

We began the morning with a brisk walk through Brockhampton and into the hills. Upon our return to the manor we jumped into the car and headed for the Old Post Office in Guiting Power for coffee and cake. Stepping into this place immediately brought me to the realization that it had something special. A very charming set of proprietors, a mother and two daughters, tend to this delightful little shop, preparing coffees and cakes while chatting with their regular patrons as they come and go. The level and tone of the conversation was at the same time engaging and soothing. The musical interactions might carry one back to a sweeter time. I could've sat for hours, hypnotized by the melodic essence which existed within this small space. But,alas, the coffee and homemade lemon cake are finished. It is time to get on with my day. One day I will come back to this lovely little corner of the Cotswolds.

Food of the Cotswolds

While I would not describe the cuisine as gormet, it is definitely hearty, country fare. From Lardycake to Pork Pie to Clotted Cream, the tastes are quite varied and often delicious. An example might be my dinner at the Green Dragon Inn near Elkston. I began with a very nice salad of fig, gorgonzola and greens. Next came a steak and kidney pudding with smashed peas. That may not sound very appealing but it was very tasty. The pudding gravy was rich and the mint infused peas were a refreshing addition to the heavy pudding. Also, if you've never had clotted cream, well, it's just unbelievably delicious, especially on a chocolate brownie. That's about it for food.

The Cotswolds, a Different Paradise

The Cotswolds, which is three hours west of London, is a very picturesque area encased in gently rolling hills laced with narrow, curvy roads which connect quaint little 12th, 13th, 14th, and 15th century villages. The village cafes and shops are all the more charming because the proprietors and the patrons are exceedingly cordial and inviting. Each village's buildings have a unique aura, unlike any I have experienced across Europe. The theory is that the stone building materials, unique to this area, used in the villages as well as the fencerows, exude a warmth that lightens people's hearts. The hue of the stones are reminiscent of Tuscany.

Driving about must be deliberate and, therefore, forgiving because of the narrow, curvy nature of the road network, which appears to be a simple progression of stone age pathways. Looking down each valley reveals a succession of small fields full of sheep or horses or cows guarded by intricately woven hedgerows. There is a checkerboard of brilliant greens that roll about in one's mind.

All in all, rain or shine, this is a very pleasant corner of the world. My time here has been so peaceful. I'm leaving with just the slightest hint of a smile. I look forward to my return.

I Love England

After a very comfortable bus ride from London's Heathrow Airport, west through Swindon and Cirencester, into the small city of Cheltenham, I met with my friends, David and Danna Cuin. We hugged and headed into the countryside to their manorial home near the quaint little village of Brockhampton.

The home, named Brockhampton Park, which was built in 1641 and expanded to it's current size in the mid-1800s, is surrounded by beautiful gardens. The place was renovated a few years ago and then divided into 21 apartments. The Cuins occupy what were the Governess' quarters on the third floor overlooking the front gardens. We settled into their sitting room, which looks over an expansive lawn dotted with flower beds and several large, ornate topiaries, and chatted about what we might do over the coming days.

After a very nice dinner we strolled down a country lane into the village, settling into the Craven Arms, the local pub. We sipped local ales, recounted days gone by, and talked more about the days to come. After too many beers we made our way home and into a well deserved night's sleep.

I arose early to watch the morning sun spread across the green fields beyond the gardens. It was extremely peaceful. We had a light breakfast and then drove to the nearby village of Winchcombe

Thoughts on Leaving Paris

I've had a few more meals other than those I discussed in great detail. I had some outstanding gnocchi at Le Petite Cour and some excellent duck at Le Comptoir but, enough is enough about food.

As I was strolling back to the hotel after a late dinner, it struck me that I was experiencing the reason I love Paris. Walking through the labyrinth of streets in old Paris, I took notice that, even at midnight the cafes were full. The chatter was constant and the laughter was musical. I had to walk in the street because the sidewalks were clogged with dinner tables and it was a joy. I turned down the Rue de Seine toward the river and suddenly there was a peaceful quiet. The shops were all closed and only a few couples strolled along with me. I made my way along the Quai Voltaire and across the Seine on Pont Royal. Crossing the Quai Louvre, I wandered along the pathway between the Louve and the Jardin DES Tuileries. I noticed a small group of men sharing a bottle of wine. There were two women having a cigarette. There was a young couple kissing under a street light. There was a larger group of young people laughing and drinking. The city was peaceful yet full of life. I smiled as I crossed Rivoli and turned into the hotel. Yes, this walk reminder me of why I love Paris.

I thought about this hotel and the way I spent these last few days. The hotel was nice. It was in a perfect location and I loved the spa, but, overall it was a total waste of money. For my next visit I'll find a nice little apartment in a neighborhood where the real Paris lives. The people in hotels like this one visit Paris but their spirit never leaves Omaha (or wherever they visit from). In the neighborhoods you can feel the heartbeat of the city. Also, I'll spend more time. It's not good for me to cram too much into too little. I need a day or two between each gourmet experience. Some time to recover. So, when I talk to you about my trip next year, or the next, remind me to plan a relaxed time.

Mahalo nui loa for enduring my ramblings. Now it's off to England and the Cotswolds.

L'Atelier du Joel Robuchon

I charged back across the Seine with the expectation that I was about to reach the pinnacle of my culinary adventure. Well, we all know what a bugger expectations can be. I arrived early so that I might spend a bit of time absorbing the energy which must exist in this place that houses the beginning of one of the most successful gastronomic enterprises in the world. Very graciously I was seated in the hotel bar attached to the restaurant. I sat with my typical Campari and soda, waiting for my seating. How great to be at this place at this time.

Before I could finish my drink I was escorted to my seat at the serving bar and placed in the capable hands of my guide through the extensive menu, Gaelle. I selected a 2003 Medoc to highlight the taste bonanza that I expected was coming. I was correct in my wine choice and in my expectation that the variety of tastes would be off the chart.

I began with Le Crab en Tempura sur use Puree d'Avocat Acidulee. It was a beautiful presentation and the tastes were an excellent blend of sweet and tart. The sweetness of the crab was punctuated by the citrus blended in the very buttery avocado base. The avocado reminded me of the ones that grow on the farm. However, I would say that, while the tastes were excellent, the tempura did not bring much to this dish. It was a bit soft and actually detracted from the texture of the tasting. Of, well, let's move on.

My second round was Les Grirolles sur un lit de Macaronis au Fois Gras Sot-L'y Laisse au jus. Here the taste and textures were excellent. The vegetables were al dente and the fois GRAS was firm on the outside while deliciously soft on the inside. The au jus was excellent and I savored the tastes within this dish for a very long time. While the first course was just o.k., this was beyond my expectations.

Next I will have Le Fois de Veau aux Rouelles d'Oignon croustillantes et ses Pommes Grenailles Confites. What an unbelievably rich dish this was. The meat was placed on a bed of sautéed greens and covered with very delicately fried and very thin onion rings. At this point I began to realize that I may have gone a step too far. The richness was too much. The herbs and the onions were very nicely done but they could not offset the slightly off-taste of the meat. I'm not certain what it was, but, it was difficult for me to finish.

I did finish and decided to move my palet back to it's center with a plate of cheeses. The plate had two soft cheeses and two hard. The goat and blue cheeses were excellent, with the blue being the best. The soft cheeses were good but the camabert was unfinished in the middle, which was somewhat disappointing. Another, oh well.

I finished with a lovely dessert of framboise and gelato, which settled my taste buds and allowed my to successfully exit this somewhat disappointing experience. When compared to my culinary experiences over the past few days, this was very average and was not a pinnacle. The ambiance of this place was interesting. The food preparation area, which was within easy view, was amazingly subdued. The staff was very friendly and efficient. While the seating configuration was initially off-putting, I warmed to it as I talked with my adjacent fellow diners. I met a very nice couple from Manilla, a nice gentleman from Brazil and a lovely woman from Chile. Each of them, in their own way, contributed nicely to my overall experience. This was an experience that I had to have but it is not an experience I will need to repeat any time soon. Now, it's onward and upward.

Les Violon d'Ingres of chefs Christian Constant et Stephane Schmidt

I arose at mid-morning to a cloudy, misty day. I gathered my belongings which would be necessary for the day as I has planned it and retired to the hotel lobby for an espresso. Today's plan would take me a few kilometers across Paris and, on such a misty day, that might not be such a delightful walk. My destination was in the direction of the Tour Eiffel so, off I go. I begin my journey with a walk down the Rue de Rivoli, I skirt the Place de la Concorde and cross the Seine on a bridge garnished with gold. Even in the mist the sights are beautiful. Walking along the Quai d'Orsay, I pass DES Invalides and cut away from the Seine to the Rue Saint-Dominique. This area is not a tourist destination but there are still many people scurrying about in search of their morning coffee and a baguette for breakfast. I arrive at the restaurant rather early so I wile away the time reading and watching people begin their day.

Finally, the restaurant opens. I enter and ask if I might have lunch. The maitre'd checks the seating schedule and allows me to sit. Maybe it was a single diner concern. No matter. I am introduced to my very young and quite gracious server. He explains my options and I make my selections. He heads away and I sit back, beginning to read the book I have been wise enough to bring.

First comes a serving of quite delicious and very light cheese breads. Also, my wine to match my first course arrives. I have selected a 2006 Lalande de Pomerol from the Chateau Grand Ormeau. The wine is quite dry and, luckily, is a fine match for the fois GRAS I have selected. The dish is a Fois Gras de Canard Poele au Pain d'Epices avec Peche Rotie au Miel d'Acacia. Who could have imagined that duck's liver could be combined with peaches to create such an elegant taste? The hint of honey in the robust sauce was an excellent highlight for the combined soft texture of the fois GRAS and the crunch of the peach. I savored each taste. I have seldom eaten so deliberately.

My second selection is one that many would not make. I first had this delicacy many years ago when I lived in Paris. I did not know exactly what I was eating then. I was dining with my then Swedish lover. My attention was on her and not the food. This time the food is my love. The serving is a Tete de Veau, Langue et Cervelle Pouchees Gribiche aux Pistils de Safran. Would you have selected calves brains with potatoes in a mild lemon sauce? I'll tell you that the fatty portion of this meat was so sweet and the meaty portion was so tender that, when combined with the slight crunch of the potato, my taste buds were dancing around my mouth. I took something of a chance and I won, big time. The wine I matched with this selection was a 2007 Pauillac, 2nd Baron Nathaniel from the winery of Baron Phillip de Rothschild. Being slightly sweeter than my wine with the first course, it was a good compliment to this selection. Once again, I found myself savoring each bite. I began to notice an elderly French gentleman glancing at me from time to time. He'd been watching me enjoy my meal. When we caught each others glance, he raised his wine glass to me and smiled. His wife had her back to me so, she turned and smiled. They were entertained by watching me realize so much enjoyment. I returned their smile and awaited my final selection.

My final serving was a piece of pure sweetness. When the vanilla soufflé arrived A smile crossed my lips. When the server pour warm caramel into the middle of this puff of delight I sat forward. I hesitated for a moment to regard this beautifully done masterpiece. The aroma was so nice. I slowly punctured the crust with my spoon and exhaled my first taste. There was no savoring this soufflé. It just melted in my mouth. A slight smile remained on my face until the soufflé was finished.

I sipped my espresso and awaited my check. I wondered at the elegance of this petite restaurant. It was deep and narrow. I watched the elderly couple with enjoyment, wondering if I'd be realizing such culinary adventures at their age? I observed the family seated just down from them, with their dynamics of parent-child interaction over food selection and sharing. I briefly watched a young couple, so obviously in love, chatting away about who knows what. The very efficient staff produced my check, I paid and found my way back onto Rue Saint-Dominique. I wander the back streets for a bit, to walk off a few calories. Eventually I found my way back across the Seine, into the hotel and then into a delightful nap. Tomorrow is a day filled with culinary delights so, I won't eat more today. I'll just wallow in my very contentment.

Le Pinxo of Chef Alain Dutournier

Between the Rue de Rivoli, with it's throngs of tourists, and the Rue du Faubourg-Saint Honore, with it's very fashionable shops and wealthy patron, you'll find the Rue du Mont Thabor. It is a destination street. While it is in the center of the city, it seems far away from the maddening crowd. Walking down this indistinct street you'll come upon a seemingly out-of-place sign announcing the Renaissance Paris Vendome Hotel. Passing through the darkened glass doors you'll enter a small, art deco lobby. As you regard the lobby you may notice a small sign near a set of dark wooden doors. Pull back one of those doors and you'll find a very subdued waiting area. Occasionally staff rushes through and shortly a very proper young man will escort you to your table in the extremely well appointed restaurant. It is my considered belief that you have now entered a small corner of culinary heaven.

I was seated near a table of eight, four men at one end of the table and four women at the other end. The men spoke softly as if they were passing some state secrets. The women were more robust and outspoken with their sharing of opinions. Each group talked amongst themselves, with little sharing from one end of the table to the other. I will observe them and try to pair them. It will be an interesting diversion. My server, a rather haughty and very French young woman arrived shortly to guide me through my evening. I began with a Campari and soda to cleanse my pallet as I perused the extensive menu. After I had made my selections the sommelier arrived to assist me with my wine selection. I chose a 2006 Gevrey Chambertin from Domaine Denis Mortet. It was a very nice match for the first two courses.

The first course was a Petit Pates Chauds de Cepes sous Capet de Lentins. The cap of the Capet mushroom was placed upon a small tower of pate. The serving was so beautifully presented that I hesitated to disturb it. I waited and watched for a moment. Finally, I sliced into this soft and mild yet earthy delight. I hesitated after each small bite, savoring the combination of textures and sipping my wine.

Second course was a Noisettes d'Agneau DEs Pyrennes avec Truffe de Saison Rapee sur Cannellonis Forestiere-Cresson Froisse. Taking a small piece of lamb, then combining it with a slice of truffle and placing that over a section of stuffed cannelloni created such an unbelievable tasting experience. I sat back after each taste, sipped a bit more wine and then leaned forward for another. This may not be the best lamb I have ever tasted but the combination of textures and smells and flavors was certainly spectacular.

The wine seems to have evaporated somewhere during the first two courses. To compliment my final serving I ordered a Cognac de Petite Champagne Normandin Mercier. The cognac arrived slightly before my dessert. I sipped. It was a little to strong for the dessert of Peche Blanche Rafraichie avec Nectar Bellini et Lait d'Amande. To finish a rather heavy dinner with such a light, delicate and sweet dessert was perfect. The peach blended so well with the nectar and the cream. Each taste just melted in my mouth. When I'd finished I leaned back and again began to sip my cognac.

My server, I asked her name but could not understand what she said and I was to embarrassed to ask again, seemed satisfied that I was nearly finished. Now a rather funny thing happened. The same sort of thing has happened on a couple of other occasions. The server brought me what must've been her favorite fine dining finishing touch. She brought me an espresso with a side of very cold Armagnac. Now, I was really finished! I bid the staff "bon soirée" and waddled up to my room.

Finally, I must report that I have seldom had a more satisfying dining experience. Observing the table of patrons next to me was an interesting diversion. Watching the interaction of the staff with its political drama often brought a smile to my face. The overall ambiance was just perfect. This experience bears firm testimony to my new belief that dining alone can be rewarding and refreshing. I can't wait for my next culinary adventure.

Kirin: a Mandarin Seafood Restaurant

I arrived at my hotel in the early afternoon after the ferry ride from Vancouver Island.  I selected this hotel in Richmond, which is a Vancouver suburb, because it was close to the airport and I had an early flight home the next morning.  I'd already turned in my car at the airport and taken the shuttle to the hotel so I needed a close-by place to eat.  I asked the concierge for a good Chinese restaurant within walking distance.  As it happens, the Chinese who fled Hong Kong before the communist takeover settled in this area.  I was hoping for a good, authentic Chinese meal.  At first she gave me the name of a place that she said most people liked.  I asked her what she liked (she was Chinese).  She volunteered that she really like Kirin.  I got direction and went to my room to change.

I left the hotel and headed east down the town's main street.  A block or so down the street I see the Kirin sign across this busy boulevard and above a pair of glass doors on the side of a highrise parking garage.  I am dubious.  I weaved my way through traffic (there are no traffic lights or crosswalks nearby) and up to the doors.  There is no signage except for what I saw from across the street and no menu to peruse.  I enter the parking garage and begin the climb up three flights of concrete stairs, following small arrows marked "Kirin".  I'm thinking, what kind of Chinese restaurant is going to be named after a Japanese beer?  And in a parking garage?  As I get to the third floor landing I come to a pair of large beautiful wooden doors.  I feel better.  I open the door and enter into a different world.

I stand for a moment in a lush waiting area with dark red velvet walls and rich dark wood accents.  The hostess, who was talking on the phone, gave me the sign to please wait.  She was involved in an intense conversation  that held enough English words for me to tell that she was explaining the menu to someone on the other end.  I waited.  After a reasonable amount of time she ended her conversation, grabbed a menu and whisked me through an equally elegant ante room and into a large hall.  The hall was filled with linen covered tables of many sizes.  In the center were tables for large groups and they were surrounded by smaller four person tables.  There must've been 40 tables and I was the only diner.  I was seated at a table at the back of the room overlooking the street.  A well-dressed older lady came over and asked if I'd like tea.  She brought me jasmine tea and I began to look at the menu.  She hesitated for a moment after serving the tea and I asked if I could have some time with the menu.  She smiled.  Also, I said that I would like a leisurely dinner and that, if it was permissible, I would order one course at a time.  She smiled and walked away.

I decided on my first course and began to sip my tea.  I'd brought along a book and I began to read.  Shortly after I began to read she returned.  By this time the dining hall began to fill.  It was very enjoyable to watch and listen.  I couldn't understand a word but the melodic sounds were engaging.  Anyhow, it's time for the eating to begin.  The first course was steamed fresh scallops dressed with black bean sauce (the scallops were so succulent and buttery, the sauce so light...I ate them very deliberately,savoring each bite).  When I had finished this course I picked up the menu and selected the next.  When I had chosen I once again picked up my book.  Yes, she arrived shortly with a smile.  Her English was not so good but we had established communication.  Because I liked the black bean sauce I selected a steamed Rock Cod with spicy black bean sauce.  A short time after I ordered a young girl brought over a live Rock Cod, which had been taken from their tank.  She showed me the fish and simply said, "Two Pounds."  I nodded "OK" and she walked away.  After what seemed like a long time the serving was delivered.  It was well worth the wait.  The fish was so perfectly done and the sauce was so perfect for the fish.  I took a very long time to totally enjoy each morsel.

Was I satiated? Not quite.  I again picked up the menu.  Maybe a small bowl of fish maw consomme.  I set the menu down, picked up my book, and, again she arrived smiling.  I ordered and consumed the soup in short order.  The broth was rich, the dumplings were tender and the ham was very tasty.  It was perfect for this stage of my meal.  What next?  I didn't hesitate.  This time I caught her eye and she came to my table, I think to ask if I was finished.  When I asked for Peking Duck she looked surprised and said that it had two courses.  I indicted, fine.  She smiled and scurried away.  Some time later, who knows how long (I was having too much fun watching and listening to the other customers), the first duck course arrived.

The first duck course was the skin which had been fried and cut into small pieces.  Along with the skin were pieces of green garden onions, sweet buns and a thicker, stronger black bean sauce.  So, I placed some black bean sauce on a bun and rolled a piece of duck skin and a piece of green garden onion into the bun.  Each bite had the crunchy tang of the onion, the sweetness of the duck skin and the almost chocolate taste of the sauce.  There were lots of bites and each was delicious.  Now I was getting full.  I'm just about finished with this portion when they brought a large platter of duck meat when had been combined with many other ingredients to make what looked like a mound of sweet corned beef hash.  Along with this course was a plate of large, crispy green lettuce leaves.  I did the best I could.  I rolled the duck hash (for lack of a better term) into the lettuce leaves.  I was full but the crunch of the fresh lettuce and the sweetness of the duck was so wonderful that I actually ate most of what they served.

Finally, I pushed back.  My tea was gone so I just picked up my book and waited for my angel to arrive.  It didn't take long for my check to arrive, I paid and wandered out through the mass of tables.  I tried to focus on the music of the language as I walked away but I was too full.  Yes, I was too full but I was, oh, so satisfied.  I can't wait to one day soon return to this lovely place.  But, alas, now it's off to home and Pua.

Yes, I'll spend time with the main woman in my life for a few weeks and then it's off to France and England.  What culinary adventures will they hold?  I'll let you know.

Victoria: ambiance and eating

I took the south ferry from Salt Spring Island to Victoria.  The evening was cool on the water but the sky filled with brilliant shades of red and yellow as the sun passed into the west.

The drive into Victoria brought back memories.  Memories of the kindness and hospitality of Victoria's residents despite the continual surge of tourists.  Memories of how clean and almost sparkling the city was and continues to be.  What a great place to visit.

I drove through the center of the city and into the first residental neighborhood past the hustle and bustle.  Down a side street just a couple of blocks from the marina is the Anderson House Bed and Breakfast where I had made plans to stay for a couple of days.  As I neared the house I noticed that the old Victorian homes had been largely replaced with newer, more modern places.  The Victorian-style Anderson House stood out as a vestige of what was quite probably a glorious past.  As I pulled into the driveway I couldn't help but wonder if I'd made a mistake.  The older homes on each side of this home were not in a good state of repair and the exterior of the Anderson House was what one might call rustic.  However, much to my pleasant surprise, the accomodations were very nice and quite spacious.  The home was elegantly decorated and the breakfasts were very good.  Janet's pancakes were excellent, there was abundant fresh fruit and homemade breads.  It is definately a place to which I would return.  Also, a major benefit was that the home is within easy walking distance from the city center.

I easily walked to the Empress Hotel which hosts what is quite probably the signature event in Victoria, if not Canada.  There is nothing quite like high tea at the Empress.  Sitting in overstuffed chairs in an old English sitting room gazing across the long green lawn toward the marina, I wondered at the vagaries of life. This high tea is perfect tranquility punctuated occassionally by sipping your tea and munching fresh baked pastries.  It is true decadence and I loved it.  After tea I wandered around the downtown a bit to work off some calories and to make room for what I knew was going to be an outstanding dinner.

Couched amidst a group of small shops away from the noise of the city center is this little gem of a place called Zambri's.  I entered the restaurant to the sound of light jazz and to the hum of friendly banter between friends.  The owner and hostess seemed to know every person who entered and greeted them as old friends.  She asked where I would like to sit and I selected the bar.  From that vantage point I could monitor the comings and goings and I had a excellent view of the kitchen.  So, I began with a glass of Poggio al Tuffo and a tray of seasoned olives-something to help me through the menu. 

Then, the eating began.  I began with a salad of fresh blueberries, octopus, and raw fennel covered by a light dressing (the blueberries and octopus went together so well...who'd a guessed), followed by my primi of Gnoochi with mushrooms covered by a gorgonzola and creme sauce (so tender) with a side of fresh greens dressed with garlic and chili, with that I had an '04 Valpolicella, for my secondi I had a pan grilled lamb scaloppine lightly dressed with a puttanesca sauce on a bed of polenta (the lamb was perfectly cooked, the puttanesca was perfectly spiced), with this course I had a '03 Brunello.  After two hours of eating and drinking I barely had room for the expresso and a peach tarte in a light crust with pastry creme...I needed the sweet to compliment the spicy puttanesca.  So, after sitting for a moment to gather myself, I was about to waddle out the door but I was stopped by the chef, Peter Zambri.  I was happy to have the opportunity to thank him for such an outstanding meal.  I waddled to the car and drove back to my large, comfortable bed.  I wondered if I could do this again tomorrow night.

I arose the next morning, had a nice light breakfast and began walking around the city.  I had to make room for tonight's meal.  In preparation for dinner I had a very light lunch-a pint of homemade strawberry ice cream.  Now I felt ready for Cafe Brio.  Situated on a busy street but bien cached behind a nice little courtyard was this lovely little culinary jewel.  It had much different ambiance than Zambri's.  Rather than being like a friendly neighborhood place it was a very efficient, attentive place.  It was warm and friendly but not in the "I'm happy to see you again" style of Zambri's.  Once again I elected to sit at the bar and there I met J J, the bartender and my guide through the menu.  One concept this restaurant followed and I really liked was that they offered small portion sizes so that the guest could try many different things, and that's what I did.  I started with a Lagavulin to settle me down so that I could focus on the menu.

To begin this dining experience I had a roast summer squash & goat cheese agnolotti (the raviolis were perfectly done, thin and al dente, the creme was very sublte and the dish was well spiced), for this evening I'll be drinking a bottle of '04 Barolo; my second course was a dungeness crab spaghettini (the crab was slightly buttery and excellent, the pasta was al dente and the dish was dressed with the perfect amount of olive oil and peccorino); the next course was a crispy poached cornish hen served with crushed potatoes, braised greens and was dressed with a mushroom and tomato sause (three distinctive tastes that blended together so well it made me want to cry); finally, and I know that I'm not having dessert tonight, I had duck sausage occhi di lupo pasta ( tender, not greasy, with perfectly done pasta and accompanied by diced red onion to compliment the duck...and I lied to you, with this I had an excellent Cote du Rhone).  I'm telling you, I was about to explode but I was so happy.  I can only hope that my future trips have this much taste.  Once again, I waddled.

The next morning provided a light breakfast and a desire to stay for more fine dining but, now that I was to fat I began my drive north to spend a few days on the sailboat and hopefully settle down.  I'll tell you, though, the best meal of this trip is yet to come.  Next episode, the chinese dinner from nirvana.

Vancouver Island

As an overview of the trip, I departed Hawaii expecting a relaxing time with friends.  I arrived to watch the finals of a local grass court tennis tournament and to a fine dinner at the Beach House in Qualicum Beach, where my friends live and which was the base for my trip.  The next day's activites included an antique auto show in Parkville as well as a music and art festival in Comox.  The next couple of days were spent aboard my friend's sail boat mostly putzing around, which was very relaxing and playing a little tennis.  The following day I departed Qualicum Beach to visit a Buddhist retreat center on Salt Spring Island (review to follow)and then traveled on to spend a couple of nights in Victoria. My days in Victoria were excellent.  I wandered the city during the day and had excellent food at night.  The first night I ate at Zambri's and the second night at Cafe Brio (reviews to follow).  I drive back to Qualicum Beach for two more days on the sail boat.  My final two days were spent getting back to the Vancouver airport.  I spent my final evening in Richmond, BC, which is Vancouver's chinatown, where I had the finest Chinese dinner I have ever had at Kirin (review to follow).  I'll work on improving the quality of my presentation and I look forward to sharing my adventures.  A hui hou.

Where to Begin

After a sabbatical to Vancouver Island  I've decided to begin documenting my food, travel and spiritual adventures, so stay tuned