Le Pinxo of Chef Alain Dutournier

Between the Rue de Rivoli, with it's throngs of tourists, and the Rue du Faubourg-Saint Honore, with it's very fashionable shops and wealthy patron, you'll find the Rue du Mont Thabor. It is a destination street. While it is in the center of the city, it seems far away from the maddening crowd. Walking down this indistinct street you'll come upon a seemingly out-of-place sign announcing the Renaissance Paris Vendome Hotel. Passing through the darkened glass doors you'll enter a small, art deco lobby. As you regard the lobby you may notice a small sign near a set of dark wooden doors. Pull back one of those doors and you'll find a very subdued waiting area. Occasionally staff rushes through and shortly a very proper young man will escort you to your table in the extremely well appointed restaurant. It is my considered belief that you have now entered a small corner of culinary heaven.

I was seated near a table of eight, four men at one end of the table and four women at the other end. The men spoke softly as if they were passing some state secrets. The women were more robust and outspoken with their sharing of opinions. Each group talked amongst themselves, with little sharing from one end of the table to the other. I will observe them and try to pair them. It will be an interesting diversion. My server, a rather haughty and very French young woman arrived shortly to guide me through my evening. I began with a Campari and soda to cleanse my pallet as I perused the extensive menu. After I had made my selections the sommelier arrived to assist me with my wine selection. I chose a 2006 Gevrey Chambertin from Domaine Denis Mortet. It was a very nice match for the first two courses.

The first course was a Petit Pates Chauds de Cepes sous Capet de Lentins. The cap of the Capet mushroom was placed upon a small tower of pate. The serving was so beautifully presented that I hesitated to disturb it. I waited and watched for a moment. Finally, I sliced into this soft and mild yet earthy delight. I hesitated after each small bite, savoring the combination of textures and sipping my wine.

Second course was a Noisettes d'Agneau DEs Pyrennes avec Truffe de Saison Rapee sur Cannellonis Forestiere-Cresson Froisse. Taking a small piece of lamb, then combining it with a slice of truffle and placing that over a section of stuffed cannelloni created such an unbelievable tasting experience. I sat back after each taste, sipped a bit more wine and then leaned forward for another. This may not be the best lamb I have ever tasted but the combination of textures and smells and flavors was certainly spectacular.

The wine seems to have evaporated somewhere during the first two courses. To compliment my final serving I ordered a Cognac de Petite Champagne Normandin Mercier. The cognac arrived slightly before my dessert. I sipped. It was a little to strong for the dessert of Peche Blanche Rafraichie avec Nectar Bellini et Lait d'Amande. To finish a rather heavy dinner with such a light, delicate and sweet dessert was perfect. The peach blended so well with the nectar and the cream. Each taste just melted in my mouth. When I'd finished I leaned back and again began to sip my cognac.

My server, I asked her name but could not understand what she said and I was to embarrassed to ask again, seemed satisfied that I was nearly finished. Now a rather funny thing happened. The same sort of thing has happened on a couple of other occasions. The server brought me what must've been her favorite fine dining finishing touch. She brought me an espresso with a side of very cold Armagnac. Now, I was really finished! I bid the staff "bon soirée" and waddled up to my room.

Finally, I must report that I have seldom had a more satisfying dining experience. Observing the table of patrons next to me was an interesting diversion. Watching the interaction of the staff with its political drama often brought a smile to my face. The overall ambiance was just perfect. This experience bears firm testimony to my new belief that dining alone can be rewarding and refreshing. I can't wait for my next culinary adventure.