The Dining and Travel Adventures of a wandering Buddhist

Living in the culinary "now" with no attachment.

Sunday, September 12, 2010

Les Violon d'Ingres of chefs Christian Constant et Stephane Schmidt

I arose at mid-morning to a cloudy, misty day. I gathered my belongings which would be necessary for the day as I has planned it and retired to the hotel lobby for an espresso. Today's plan would take me a few kilometers across Paris and, on such a misty day, that might not be such a delightful walk. My destination was in the direction of the Tour Eiffel so, off I go. I begin my journey with a walk down the Rue de Rivoli, I skirt the Place de la Concorde and cross the Seine on a bridge garnished with gold. Even in the mist the sights are beautiful. Walking along the Quai d'Orsay, I pass DES Invalides and cut away from the Seine to the Rue Saint-Dominique. This area is not a tourist destination but there are still many people scurrying about in search of their morning coffee and a baguette for breakfast. I arrive at the restaurant rather early so I wile away the time reading and watching people begin their day.

Finally, the restaurant opens. I enter and ask if I might have lunch. The maitre'd checks the seating schedule and allows me to sit. Maybe it was a single diner concern. No matter. I am introduced to my very young and quite gracious server. He explains my options and I make my selections. He heads away and I sit back, beginning to read the book I have been wise enough to bring.

First comes a serving of quite delicious and very light cheese breads. Also, my wine to match my first course arrives. I have selected a 2006 Lalande de Pomerol from the Chateau Grand Ormeau. The wine is quite dry and, luckily, is a fine match for the fois GRAS I have selected. The dish is a Fois Gras de Canard Poele au Pain d'Epices avec Peche Rotie au Miel d'Acacia. Who could have imagined that duck's liver could be combined with peaches to create such an elegant taste? The hint of honey in the robust sauce was an excellent highlight for the combined soft texture of the fois GRAS and the crunch of the peach. I savored each taste. I have seldom eaten so deliberately.

My second selection is one that many would not make. I first had this delicacy many years ago when I lived in Paris. I did not know exactly what I was eating then. I was dining with my then Swedish lover. My attention was on her and not the food. This time the food is my love. The serving is a Tete de Veau, Langue et Cervelle Pouchees Gribiche aux Pistils de Safran. Would you have selected calves brains with potatoes in a mild lemon sauce? I'll tell you that the fatty portion of this meat was so sweet and the meaty portion was so tender that, when combined with the slight crunch of the potato, my taste buds were dancing around my mouth. I took something of a chance and I won, big time. The wine I matched with this selection was a 2007 Pauillac, 2nd Baron Nathaniel from the winery of Baron Phillip de Rothschild. Being slightly sweeter than my wine with the first course, it was a good compliment to this selection. Once again, I found myself savoring each bite. I began to notice an elderly French gentleman glancing at me from time to time. He'd been watching me enjoy my meal. When we caught each others glance, he raised his wine glass to me and smiled. His wife had her back to me so, she turned and smiled. They were entertained by watching me realize so much enjoyment. I returned their smile and awaited my final selection.

My final serving was a piece of pure sweetness. When the vanilla soufflé arrived A smile crossed my lips. When the server pour warm caramel into the middle of this puff of delight I sat forward. I hesitated for a moment to regard this beautifully done masterpiece. The aroma was so nice. I slowly punctured the crust with my spoon and exhaled my first taste. There was no savoring this soufflé. It just melted in my mouth. A slight smile remained on my face until the soufflé was finished.

I sipped my espresso and awaited my check. I wondered at the elegance of this petite restaurant. It was deep and narrow. I watched the elderly couple with enjoyment, wondering if I'd be realizing such culinary adventures at their age? I observed the family seated just down from them, with their dynamics of parent-child interaction over food selection and sharing. I briefly watched a young couple, so obviously in love, chatting away about who knows what. The very efficient staff produced my check, I paid and found my way back onto Rue Saint-Dominique. I wander the back streets for a bit, to walk off a few calories. Eventually I found my way back across the Seine, into the hotel and then into a delightful nap. Tomorrow is a day filled with culinary delights so, I won't eat more today. I'll just wallow in my very contentment.

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