Exiting the hotel I take a stroll down the Via Paolo Sarpi, a pedestrian street full with people having their evening wine at the many outdoor cafes. I make a turn at the ancient fish market and enter the lovely garden at the front of the restaurant. Greeted there, I am quickly seated in the midst of quiet elegance. Lush woods and fine fabrics line the walls. Each table has an arrangement of roses atop its lovely linens.
A young waiter arrives, I light up my trusty I-Pad, and we begin the, sometimes, laborious process of composing a dinner. I began with a 1999 Teresa Raiz Decano, as very dry, full bodied blended wine containing equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. After looking over the menu I elected the Gran Menu Degustazione, which I figured would be a good sampling of all the good things this restaurant offered. The one thing that I did not account for was the size of each portion. Unlike other degustation menus, I found that these portions were quite large and, I must admit, it was not easy to finish this excellent meal.
First came a lovely soup topped with a fish ball and sprinkled with roasted “semi di girasole e zucca” (sunflower and pumpkin seeds), a sort of pine nut.
Second was the Capesante Scottate, Tortino di Bulgar e Salsa Allo Zafferano, which was beautifully presented and very nicely spiced. The scallops were perfectly done and the Bulgar with herbs and seeds was delicious.
Next came eight different servings of raw Blue Fin Tuna (La Verticale di Tonno), I missed the Italian term, each of which was differently spiced. The first taste was natural with a bit of sea salt. The fish was excellent and definitely sashimi grade. The second was with tiny chunks of ripe avocado. The third had caviar eggs. The fourth had small chunks of green and black olives. The next had capers. The sixth was mixed with an excellent balsamic reduction sauce, which was to that point my favorite. The seventh was mixed with a delicious Udinese honey and became my favorite. The final taste was a mix of tuna and a mysterious tangy sauce and that was definitely my favorite. So, as the tastes progressed each, in its turn became my favorite. I could’ve made a meal of just this portion.
Third was the Scaloppa di Ricciola al Pomodoro Fresco, Erbette Rosse e Patate Saltate. This was beautifully presented, if a bit odd to see. Fresh mozzarella in a bed of tomato next to a large piece of nicely cooked Amberjack just seemed odd but the taste was very good. The roasted vegetables were excellent, too.
Fourth was then Spaghetti Estivi Mancini con Gamberi, Regina di San Daniele e Melanzane. Surprisingly, this serving was cold but it was excellent. Once again the seafood was perfectly done. The tastes and textures were excellent. It was impossible to compose a taste without a different, special sensation. The eggplant was excellent.
Finally, we seemed to be coming to the finish of the excellent but very heavy dinner. The waiter brought a large dish of Gelato on a bed of fresh melon and ginger. It was very light and was exactly what was necessary at this stage of the evening. However, finally was just a bit presumptuous. The dessert of cooked custard coated with baked apple and topped with a large scoop of raspberry sorbet would be the final serving. It was beautiful and delicious but I could not finish. So, a portion of the Rosa Tiepolo, creazione in omaggio al Giovane GB Tiepolo went unfinished. I sadly watched the waiter clear my table, I paid the rather small bill, given the amount I consumed, and I waddled back to my bed.
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