The early evening drive through the country was relaxing and beautiful. The rolling hills topped by the setting sun were magical. I passed through a small village and turned down a country lane. I looked closely but could not see a sign for the restaurant. I drove a bit further and then turned back. It must be nearby. Suddenly I saw a small parking area. I turned in and parked. The place that looked like a simple farm house. There was no one about. I waited in the car until another vehicle entered. A couple got out of their car and entered the building. I soon followed them in and was greeted by a lovely older woman. She spoke no English but we figured out who I was and she escorted me to a table. At this point it was only me and the aforementioned couple for dinner. That would soon change as two other couples and a large group of Germans arrived for dinner.
For this evening my fellow diners were very interesting. I chatted briefly with an English couple, the original couple, and discovered that they owned a home near the restaurant, spending half of their time in Italy. Across the room was a middle aged Italian couple involved in an intense conversation about something that seemed very important to them. Next to them was a young Italian couple who seemed deeply in love. The warmth of their smiles and the tenderness of their touches was so nice to see. However, next to me was the most amazing couple. They must have been in their 80's. Listening to them order dinner was a joy. Hearing their chat, even though I didn't have a clue what they were saying, was very entertaining. Finally, after we had all finished our meals, we made an attempt to communicate. For some reason they had become interested in me. It was just fun. The only interesting things about the large group of Germans were their body paintings and the fact that several times during dinner a few of them would go outside to smoke.
My dinner was quite an experience, too. This was a small, family owned and run restaurant. The atmosphere was very homey. The owners, the older woman who greeted me and her husband, provided excellent service. The chef, a rather large, older woman, must have been a relative judging from their interaction. While finding this place was a small challenge, the greater challenge was that the menu was verbal. The lovely older woman came to me and began to tell me the items available for dinner. I listened closely and when I heard something I recognized I order that item. It all worked out and was delightful. During the menu presentation I noticed that the older couple next to me had taken an interest in my predicament. Several times they smiled at me as a strained to figure out what I was having for dinner.
The wine I selected was easy. It was a 2003 La Spinetta Vigneto Barbaresco "Starderi". Dinner began with an antipasto that was essentially an open faced ham sandwich. The prosciutto was fresh and excellent. The turkey was freshly roasted and nicely spiced. The veggies were al dente. The mustard was very nice. Each bit was composed of a bit of each item and was a great start to my dinner. The part I recognized in the menu delivery was the word for ham. I didn't touch the wine with the antipasto but allowed it to sit and breath.
The first course was a stuffed Agnolotti that was mouthwatering. Here I recognized the word for garlic. Now I began to sip the wine. The pasta was stuffed with sage, garlic, meat and covered with a delicious, seasoned olive oil. The pasta was petite and the stuffing was very nicely spiced. A single piece of pasta left to dissolve in my mouth to be followed by a sip of wine was full of wonderful sensations. This course lasted for quite some time.
As for what was to come next, I was not certain. I didn't understand the ingredients. As she was repeating the selections for the second time I simply motioned for the second choice. As it turned out, it was my great fortune to have tripe. I love being lucky. I love tripe. It was prepared Piemontese style in the most delicious broth and accompanied by nicely spiced sausages. The dish was really quite ugly but excellent for my final course. A piece of tripe accompanied by a bit of sausage washed down with a sip of wine was perfect. It may have been better than the tripe I had in Paris.
After nearly three hours of eating and watching and listening I departed this lovely experience. The couple came to shake my hand as I left. We all smiled and were very happy. The drive home was languid. My bed was very welcome.
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