To fully appreciate the total ambiance of dining at this wonderful restaurant, one must travel via the "Strada Bianca" from Montepulciano to Montecchiello. When one takes this most direct route and when one arrives at this most beautiful small village, the mind is appropriately set to enjoy the atmosphere of this special place. I cannot tell you exactly why this is true but I have come to believe it. Also, it is important to arrive early for dinner so that there is sufficient time to stroll about the village. Perhaps the purpose of the stroll is to settle one's mind and to relax one's body so that a sort of total enjoyment may be realized.
Entry into this rather small restaurant is directly into the dining room. One is immediately confronted with a sort of controlled enthusiasm. People chat softly but may laugh heartily as a refection of their enjoyment. The aromas of Chef Moreno Motterle creations surround each diner. Each time I have eaten here (this is my third time) I have immediately had the sense that this is a wonderful place to be. The hostess and owner greets each person. She is warm and engaging. Her touch as she guides one to their table is reassuring as one passes among the tables.
Seated on the upper balcony, overlooking the lower dining area, I watched my fellow diners and their enjoyable contact with the staff. With each table the staff seemed to be old friends. Soon my menu arrived and the special servings for that evening were explained to me. For me, for this final dinner here before my departure, I selected items that I had enjoyed previously. I wanted to confirm my enjoyment and to check the consistency of the Chef.
The wine I selected was a 2006 Brunello Poggio di Sotto. This wine was soft but rich with dark fruits and great on the tongue. I was brought a tasty serving of ricotta cheese with a nut butter and local bread. It was a nice beginning. My first selection was a Tortino di Funghi con creme di Porcini e Tartufo fresco. The Tortino was firm on the outside with smooth and rich on the inside. The Tartufo sauce was unbelievable. This was one of those "hold each bit in your mouth and let it dissolve" dishes. Each taste was followed by a sip of wine. This first serving last for a time. My memory was correct and I was very happy that it was prepared the same delicious way I had remembered.
Next came the Gnocchi di Patate e Cannellini al Cacio e Pepe. This, too, was delicate and rich. The spices were very nice and the cheese was smooth. Each piece of gnocchi was allowed to simply melt and was followed by another sip of wine. The texture was similar to the first serving but the spices made this portion a totally different experience. Again, I allowed this dish to last for quite some time. Eating two such rich servings is a challenge and one must linger as not to be overwhelmed.
Lastly, the Filletto di Maiale ai Funghi con crema di Pecorino. The pork was tender and ever so slightly juicy. The cream sauce was an excellent compliment to the slight licorice taste in the meat. The owner had warned me about having three such rich dishes but my objective for this meal was set. However, at the end she was correct. The richness of this feast could not be sufficiently offset by the dry wine. I was stuffed. I reclined in my seat and lingered over a coffee. I refused a dessert and a grappa. I was so content with this meal. What I would've really liked to do was to simply roll into bed but I had my trip back down the "Strada Bianco". At the end I knew that, each time in Montepulciano would certainly include a trip to La Porta.
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