I arose very early, beginning my voyage in the dark.  My long drive skirted Bordeaux, headed across a plain full of tree farms, and into the Pyrennes.  As I drive I'm focussed on the road because it is a very rainy, very windy day.  Entering the small mountains I realize that I do not understand the road signs.  They're no longer in French, but Spanish.  Sure, I realized it would happen but the sudden realization of how ignorant I was became sobering.  I don't speak nor understand Spanish.  Encore, c'est la vie.
My destination is San Sebastian, Spain, which is rumored to be a culinary hot spot.  I'm scouting a possible future eating destination.  I've become a bit overdosed on French food.  Being very poorly prepared for this last minute adventure, arrival in San Sebastian finds me with no map and in a pretty busy small city dissected by a river.  What is where?  Wandering around into wrong turn after wrong turn, I finally locate a hotel.  After a few more erroneous  turns, I find my way to the front of the hotel.  Inside they are kind enough to speak English and to give me a map of the city.  They point me in the correct direction (the old city with many restaurants) and I'm off.
Driving about, looking for a place to park, I see the majority of the old city and the commercial district.  Finally, I find a parking spot.  One thing I did accomplish prior to my beginning this trip, I amassed a list of five very good restaurants in the area of San Sebastian.  So, I began wandering about the core city looking for just one of these fine eating places.  I had no luck.  So, I began watching what the people were doing for food (by now it was lunch time-1p here).  What I noticed was that every bar had its counter filled with plates of food with people standing around, talking, eating, drinking.  It looked like a good idea.
It situated myself outside a small bar that was full of very chatty folks who looked so happy, despite the bad weather.  I watched for awhile to see how things worked.  It was a bit difficult to determine.  Everyone seemed to be going in every direction.  What were they doing?  Finally, two people left and I moved into their place.  I ordered a beer and asked the bartender if he spoke English.  He did not.  I motioned at the food and he gave me a plate.  I moved along the bar, trying to determine what was what.  These were what they call Pintxos (sp?) and we call Pupus in Hawaii.
I selected from the dishes which had the fewest pieces remaining, assuming that the diners who knew what they were eating liked those the best.  I, in general, didn't have a clue what I was eating but each tasted really good.  One portion had salmon, another had peppers with anchovies, the next had fish of some sort with olives, a sausage came next, then another and another.  Suddenly, everyone left.  I was the only person there and my beer was gone.  Interesting.  I went to the cash register.  They asked my something in Spanish.  I assumed they wanted to know how much I had eaten.  I held up fingers.  They punched the keys on the cash register.  I paid and moved on.  Thankfully, the food was good and I was full.  I walked around the old city for another hour or so, looking for one of my recommended restaurants.  Again, no luck and I wasn't really attracted to any of the places.  So, back to the car and back on the road.
I may not have found what I came in search of but this is a place to which I will definitely return.  It's full of happy people and I'm interested in discovering this cuisine which is new to me.  Maybe next spring when I return to Plum Village.  Maybe I should learn some Spanish.  Now, it's time to prepare for my trip home.
 
 
you discovered Tapas!
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